Good video but if you've come this far and still want to leave the rod in there for emissions reasons you should atleast cut out the divider that is cast into the housing with a sawzal. After those are out you can dremel the inside of the housings flat and even knife-edge the rod for maximum airflow. This will give you the most benefit and retain your emissions systems.
Good video. BTW the screws strip because they are crimped or staked on the ends, they are not a softer material just regular plated steel. So no amount of soaking or heat will help you.
Wish I would have seen this video like 2 months ago lol. I got the IAG delete parts. I will say it makes a noticeable difference though. I mean like a 15 whp difference, and much better throttle response.
Thanks for all your videos, Luke!! You've helped me get the courage to pull my 255 with 230k miles and start rebuilding it! Also, I think this video is the first time I've seen your eyes!
Is it possible to remove the OEM TGVs and just jump the sensors? Kinda like jumping the PCV sensors while doing an AOS install Or maybe just have the motors sit somewhere else in the engine bay with aftermarket TGVs in their place?
Dude. Thanks man! 🤙👍 Got lots happening. 04 FXT getting lot of upgrades and going to RallyX. 98 coupe with 05 WRX swap that need a head gasket and who knows what else - And MORE!!!
Take the shaft out cut a section put it between the sensor and the activator plug it in and lay it off to the side of course with something to hold it together that way you get your air flow with no codes
If anything screws potentially coming loose in the TGV and going into the motor is reason enough to leave them out. I remember on a Nissan car with QR25DE motor I owned screws on a similar butterfly intake emissions BS coming loose and destroying motors was a common problem.
Sneaky Foz WRONG ! All factory butterfly screws are tapered on the opposite side . Nearly impossible for them to screw themselfs out . You don't have to go thru the trouble of drilling them out but just use a Dremel and quickly grind the threaded end off and the screw will easily screw out .
True and good info. Thanks for sharing. One thing I would add is that cutting the screws or drilling them out - both take about 5 min. - so I wound say about equally easy methods to use.
Hey mate, I thought I'd let you know that Brett sold MRT Performance earlier in the year. Not sure what he's up to at the moment. Thanks for your great videos too, they're very informative, especially the intake installation process.
Thanks for the heads up - I didn’t know he sold MRT - wonder what he’s up to now a days! And glad the videos helped! 👊 Once again, working on something new for the channel, hope you’ll stay tuned for a new chapter soon.
Actually you have to look at the holes as voids in the path of flow. Picture the water going down the river. The voids in the path causes the water to swirl. That swirl creates a cushion and ripple in air flow. The bolt will cause the air to deflect outward creating a vortex which can be beneficial. The effects will be see in the higher RPM's at top end speeds.
@@SubaruONLY HP gains are subjective. HP gains seen on the Dyno can be lost on the road. It was hilarious when people would ask how much power are you putting down and I would say 327whp and they would have this look and walk away.....then we would meet on the road and my WRX would walk away...lol ....It happened with a Mustang Cobra. Subaru's make efficient power verses brute power.
he probably put the screws back in because when the blades are in the warmed up position and the holes are not inline with the air flow it'll cause a whistling sound that could potentially be annoying if you could hear it because air is flowing past not through the hole and then you'd have to tear everything back apart to replace those screws
I would have been more concerned about the screws falling out into the motor than the turbulence they make Or what smalle amount of horsepower game you do actually make
I have to ask this question. When removing a form of flow restriction such as this, would it be a good idea to reset your ECU to erase it's learned parameters?
Hey Luke! Killer video. Thank you. BTW, regarding screw holes, and the little bit of side draft they might pick up when open position. Here’s my thought... super super brake clean, dap of Jb weld, file and sand smooth. Only concern is whatever flows thru those TGVs goes straight in to the heads. Yikes. So if the Jb weld didn’t hold, we just killed a motor for .003 horsepower. Geordie
Love your content new subscriber I have a MY99 GC8 WRX JDM Australian version only one we get here and I’m actually taking my car in to Brett for an upgrade at MRT performance ! Keep up the great work now off to binge watch your videos. Cheers from Sydney Australia
lol I like how he sounds like he knows the science. Leaving the holes open does change turbulence no matter what position it is. The aerodynamics does change putting in the screw changes the aerodynamics. But like you said it won’t change the horsepower by much that you would not even notice on a dyno however, removing the screw is a better choice because there’s less chances of it coming off and going through your motor. I would also remove the screw. I’m wondering does the rod have a key way or something that stops it in a certain position? Why can’t the rod be cut off? I don’t have a Subaru with this since mine is old I was just wondering before I buy a 2021 wrx sti.
Hey! After changing my MAF sensor and getting rid of a simple evaporator code… I now get this p2006 bank 1 stuck closed code… any idea if what I did affected this? In the middle of a tune.
Hi Luke, I did this but still got CELs they are p2005, 2006, and 2009. I already tried to swap the sensor and motor from another car but all three codes are still there. Do you have any suggestion? Thanks ahead!
Got my TGVs off and was looking at delete kits but I like your solution a LOT better. Free and pretty much 75% of the horsepower gain (total guess but seems pretty likely)
@@SubaruONLY Hey Luke I did the TGV delete. The car has a difficult time cranking over when the weather is colder. I havent had the chance to bring my car to get the TGV CEL light removed. Do you think by having the code clear, it will make my car start easier?
I've recently done a tgv delete, i took the bar out that the flap sits on and also removed the other plate where the injector is so it's fully open. got some nice figures out of my 2002 wrx with a ej207 vf34 etc, 375bhp
SubaruONLY tbh when i was looking for a impreza i thought bugeyes where the ugly sister, but now i got morrettes on it and a few other bits, they lool pretty agressive, better then the blob
You DO NOT have to drill the screw out . It's much easier to just grind the threaded end off and the screw will screw right out . Use a dremel or drill with a grinding stone . Obviously leave the screws out once removed . All factory butterfly screws are tapered at the end making them nearly impossible to screw themselfs out and destroying a motor . The tapered end is why you'll strip them before breaking them loose . All said , nice video .
True. But, both methods only take like 5 min., so both fairly easy. 👍👍 Good to have TWO options, in case you only have a drill or only have a small cut off wheel.
I’m getting P2008 intake runner code bank 1.. changed motor and still the same? Will TGV delete fix my problem? It’s triggering all kinds of codes including misfire cylinder 1. 3 and 4..
Man, your videos are awesome. I've been a huge subaru fan for over a decade now and I'm still learning. Lol. I barely subscribe to any youtubers. I have to really like these vids to subscribe and your informative videos are awesome. Keep up the good work, sir. Also, as far as tuning goes. Would it be fine to drive while staying out of boost before you can get a tune after doing this delete?
Dude - thanks!! Much appreciated! To answer your question - Yep, keeping it out of boost before getting a new tune is fine. The fuel - spark maps for cruising / part throttle speeds doesn’t require near as much change - so you should be fine. Good luck and cheers buddy! 👊
Most noticeable on na engines turbulent air creates better air fuel mixtures and more power rather than having unburnt gas getting into the exhaust. When port and polishing they get better results when they use rough grits or even create dimples on the intake cylinder head. You left the rod in there so you still get some turbulence.
@@SubaruONLY companies like bmw an benz use Tumble flaps to get the same result as gasoline direct injected engines. Or maybe it was the technology before gdi because swirl flaps tend to fail screws get loose an destroy engines. Which is why no one objects to deleting them.
Unknown knowledge: How long do those flaps stay closed? The answer is as soon as you start your car, the plates remain closed and will stay closed for 200 years. As soon as your foot touches the pedal and the ECU senses a TPS reading of 1, they flip open and stay open until you turn off the car. The myth with these is that they are closed "until the car is warm" and that's not true. The real power adder comes when boring them out and tuning, however this is an interesting $0 way to do some work on the weekend for a smattering of power.
If the screw holes are turned perpendicular to the air flow, isn't possible that there could be a whistling noise/effect? Much like blowing across the neck opening of a beer bottle.
What are the symptoms of these going wrong? I get intermittent CELs, a bit of power loss at higher RPM, plus that "limp mode" occasionally, AND for about the last 6 months since the CEL first started coming on, my 05 STI makes a low whistle that wasn't there before. Could one of these be stuck partially closed? I'm told this is a known Subaru issue.
Thank you! Just watched the video you shouted out lol What would you rate the difficulty of getting there intake manifold off, assuming ive still got the TMIC installed? 👍👍
Dude so I’m doing this right now. So it’s kind of frustrating for me because I have a 2014 WRX and there’s literally no videos on it. Taking the manifold off wasn’t that difficult I left the TGVs connected to the manifold so it’s easier to take out. When you take the manifold out slowly lift it up to make sure you don’t rip any wires off. I ripped off a hose going to my boost solenoid.
@@SubaruONLY so I don’t need those flaps to pass smog right? But then I would also need a tune afterwards because I deleted those? That’s what I’m getting from reading through the comments
Yes, sorry, that’s exactly correct. I realize I didn’t make that very clear. Keeping the rod and sensor prevents the check engine light from coming on due to the sensor being missing, but then having the little plates gone will likely create an different check engine light (or will at least require a tune to run smoothly, haven’t verified if it actually trips the check engine for the tune being off). Hope that clarifies it.
Hi Luke, ideally complete shaft removal. For an abstruse reason, my gut tells me that one should re-fit butterfly valve fixing screws. Wish I had an STi.
The problem you’d most likely run into with removal of the shaft is an engine code. Correct me if I’m wrong, but one of the connectors on either side power a solenoid that rotates the shaft, and one powers a position sensor for the shaft. Long story short… no rod = no position sensor input = engine code.
Injectors are either top feed or side feed. You can easily 2x - 3x the fuel by stepping up to big ass injectors, regardless of the style. One note, top feed are best for high horsepower setups.
Can you please made a video about how to install the sensor and motor i think is process to installation i can’t find one and thanks for all the info in your videos
Have a question just finished a complete ej22 rebuild and has been pretty successful. I used alot of the information from this channel which I am super thankful for! The question I have is. I noticed oil around the valve cover gaskets, so I got felpro grommets and gaskets. The oil lessened but can now see dampness around the bolt heads. Over night I get about an inch diameter sized oil spot in the garage. I turned the bolts about a 8th of a turn when the engine was hot in torque sequence and that seemed to stop the oil a bit more. I figured since the aluminum is hot the bolt will go in a bit more and when cooling off will pull it tighter. The oil is a little less now. Any tips? Should I check the torque value or maybe turn them in more? Should I back them out and put rtv around the bolt heads? Thanks alot!
Hi. These valve cover seals can be so freaking frustrating!!! I know and I have been there! Factory gaskets are best but Felpro one usually work too. Ok, assuming inside valve cover channel is clean, bolts all installed in correct order and torque, and head surface is clean, It should seal. Sometimes you do need to add a little RTV at corners with sharp angles, like around the front cam snouts and over those little half moon plugs in the heads. Of course, many (including myself) have resorted to just RTVing the $hi! out of it cause that mofo just WILL NOT seal. It’ll be a pain in the ass later too but at least it will seal and be done. Hope this helps. Realize it really isn’t much advice actually. Cheers. 🤙🤙
Any benefits of porting the bottom of the tvg? At 5:48 in the video...... with a dremel open up the INSIDE of the chamber, possibly thin the wall of the tvg. Not drastically, just enough without actually weakening the walls. Or are the gains just so minimal it’s not really worth it?
This is definitely good logic, but I think the consistent cross section area for all four ports is also really important. Might be hard to guarantee that all the ports are the exact same inner dimensions.
SubaruONLY true, I mean I totally forgot.... I’m starting to dive into the realm of getting a tune. Your delete is great for the simple fact that the rod stays and *NO CODES* which is great if you don’t have $600 for a pro tune. I port all my husqvarna chainsaws and just got into porting everything I could. I even ported my tdO4 lol.
Awesome man. You know... it’s a small world man - pretty sure the most influential reason I got into building Engines was my grandpa fell timber and had a chainsaw repair shot. I grew up in his home shop - also the inspiration for my little Subaru workshop, and that’s where the love for engine building totally come from!
SubaruONLY haha, no shit? That’s awsome! It’s been my career for the last 11 years, something addictive about felling..... kind of like auto work I guess.......it’s the satisfaction that locks you in.
Should be slightly closed at idle and you should have to rotate it (think about 1/4 turn counter clockwise) to add some spring tension on the unit when you install the sensor on the rod. Hope that helps. Good luck bud! 👍
@@SubaruONLY , yeah thinking bigger turbo soon and injectors, so probably remove tgv then, thanks Plus i have a quick question if ok, do you know what could be causing my stft to be going from -25 to +25 ? Does throw a code po171 system lean bank one, but i thought stft would be positive all time and not going negitive to positive ? Any advise would be great cause im now thinking could compression being low on one cylinder cauae this ? Thanks
The motor should only install one way. The sensor and plug will need to be inserted and rotated about 45degees when you install it, that way it’s slightly spring loaded when in the normal position at rest.
Reason you’re stripping the screws is you’re using the wrong screwdriver. They are not Phillips but jis screws. Get yourself a set of jis drivers and you’ll quit stripping screws on Subaru’s.
Maybe put the screw back in the hole and shave the head down. Because I think as air passes by the screw hole even if they are not facing direct air flow, the air may still catch as it passes by
Are you referring to like if you got actual TGV deletes without the valve rod and each end without the sensor sealed off? Cuz still whenever we've done mods for TGV delete we go the route of buying them with the middle section cut out the separating plates that run up and down and their sealed off on each end. This is the first time I've ever seen it done where you leave the rod in. But if your question is what I originally asked just get the TGV CEL code tuned off and you're good to go. Sure you probably figured it out by now 10 months later lol hopefully you made out okay and everything worked out for you. -L
Yes, your ecu is expecting a certain volume of air to be coming through and it's calculation will be incorrect if you do this mod. You'll want to tune it for sure.
Might sound like a dumb question, but is it possible to remove the tgv housings without completely removing the intake manifold. I know you have to unbolt the IM from the tgv housings to unbolt the tgvs from the heads, but I really don't want to completely remove the IM
It might be possible, but it’d probably be much easier to remove the whole assembly (IM and TGVs), then remove them. Just my opinion. Cheers and good luck.
@@SubaruONLY do you have a video showing the easiest way to remove the IM? Seems like a painful amount of stuff to disconnect to "just" replace the tgv housings. I've been thinking of just leaving them until I end up pulling the motor one day, unless its alot simpler than I am thinking it is
I just looked through my videos and I guess I don’t really have one breaking down the steps for removal - but it’s not too bad tbh. Going by memory…Just need to disconnect the fuel, vapor recovery, vacuum lines, and throttle cables, etc. Then, pull the air intake components, but leave the throttle body on. Disconnect all the wiring plugs. Then remove the long bolts that hold the IM down, leaving the bolts in that connect to the TGVs. Think that’s about it. Should be able to lift off the whole assembly at that point.
@@rikomanaro If you watched the video, it's to make it seem legit for emission states/countries - so if you live somewhere that doesn't have a yearly check or you don't care about a CEL then you don't need to do it like this.
@@SubaruONLY i believe it to be cheaper and easier to jusy buy non tgv intake halfs from a wreckers. As most people dont have a compressor, air tool diegrinder and all the bit needed.
2008 to 2011 2.5L na motors have clean tgv no rods no direction channel just open swap take some upper intake mods nothing major (bolt pattern change) also the better upgraded fuel setup will take some more indepth mods. The reason the screws don't come out easy it the back of the screw it expanded to prevent removal grinding off the back of the screw allows easy removal I'm working on a 3d print to connect motor and sensor to work off intake and fool computer
Thank you for the detailed video bro. I took mine out and my wrx feels like 25 more hp gain. No more boost going up and down. It stays at 15psi now. It used to go from 12-15 up and down while in full boost. Thanks again
Could you not remove the sensor and motor, then just mate them together outside of the housing, so that they will "function", then replace the housing with a free flow one?
