Good point on solenoids. And in the case of anything DC, heat can bring an odd issue when pushed to the edge: coil holding power/saturation can change in some designs. Electronic stuff? ... I like keeping it under 85% of rating for a longer life, cause most of the time that works. By that measure, 250 degree fluid needs a 300 degree sv rating [rounded up]
Thank you for the vids Shawn. I searched way too long looking for any solenoid that would fit these recommendations, the sv10-22-0-n-00 is large and heavy 3/8" npt in and out and rated 3000 psi pressure but only rated to 120 degrees temp. I havent found any Hydroforce or any other solenoid that has around 300 degrees and any good (over 180 psi) pressure rating. I noticed the big company dump valve kits all have custom proprietary solenoids, must have their own made for them! Im ready to throw in the towel or try one of the lower rated cheapos because there doesnt seem to be any with the ratings I want!
I built my own valve body using Hydraforce cartridge valves in a 4 way manifold. It it shifted with a PLC and has a transbrake. No shifter is needed, unless you want Park.
Not so much a dump valve question, but could one run an external fluid pump and force fluid back into the return side of the cooler port for in between run cooling? I'm not drag racing and would be nice to turn on a chassis mounted pump to bring temps down.
Been looking doing a dump valve setup , but I'm a little confused, you have another video showing one burnt up because of having cooler line setup but you're also fitting one yourself? Is this only for transmission that have had extra pump mods to increase line pressure so dropping some with the dump valve works ok ? Cheers just after some basics
I have a gems solenoid from amazon im willing to try. The us solenoid I agree is kinda scary. The gems one is about 38$ but the internal diameter is very small. Also a 1/8" npt. But it's rated for 1000psi, and plenty of heat. Stainless body. If the one you run from hydra force is a good deal I'll probably get one. But my application is a bit weird, and an 1/8" is actually enough.
Dump valve is normally open and powered to close. Typically with a transbrake valve body the line pressure is always pegged at max (around 200psi), from idle all the way to redline. Doing so is hard on internals, especially in a street car that sees high rpm on the highway. The valve is activated (closed) when the transbrake is engaged (usually via a button on the shifter). This retains the normal function of the transbrake but is much more street friendly. Transmissions in street cars without this will fall in a few thousand miles.
Hey Shawn, ran the Hz last night and used the dump valve. Lower cooler line pressure 70psi in low gear dump closed, 35psi dump open. Convertor feed is restricted to 1/8'. seem about right? maybe going to the strip Sunday so will see how it's changed things.