I have have used them waffle clutches and they wear out faster than the paper ones took them out and started using the raybestos stage one red and stage two blue clutches in twin turbo cars and 0 wear on them 2 seasons of hard racing tested many clutch styles and types.
I really like the Stage Ones as well and to be honest, ill prob put them in if i rebuild the planets which is likely...I initially looked for them but no local stock and wanted to get this build done asap as it was being done in between shop jobs and was beginning to get in the way. Since It's my personal trans Im not super worried about having to open it up later for whatever reasons so can change things up then. I use the Blues in serious SS or race applications. Thanks for the tips!
True but its usually not material, at least not on the TH400/4L80E transmissions...Lube in the 200-4R rear gear end play is a diff story...thanks for watching and posting, KeysAuto!
Nick, I had a couple of questions... I'm doing the dual feed mod and I understand about the stator seals, cup plug and middle seal omission. Trans is auto shift, no transbrake. 1. When doing this mod, is the #1 valve body check ball (direct clutch) still kept in place? 2. Is there any bleed out from the center support through its high reverse (right side) port? I've seen where some folks have added a ball bearing into that port, even with the cup plug on the valve body side. I ask this thinking about the sealing between the center support ports and the case holes that I think relies on the center bolt pulling the support tight against the case. Thank you.
Hi NV, Forward, automatic shift pattern TH400s have to have the reverse check ball and intermediate check ball. You can delete all of the others...Check out my TH400 Check Ball Considerations video for more details on check ball placement: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uzdPopP2lU4.html I don't recommend adding or modifying the center support unless you want to also install a removable cup plug in the high reverse location in addition to the one in the case..I have never heard of anyone, including me, having issues w/bleed from the HR circuit when the case cup plug has been properly installed. You can also tack-weld the HR port in the plate as long as you make it clean - no harm in doing it, just consumes a little bit of your time.
Thank you so much, I appreciate the info. I'll leave the center support alone and do the regular dual feed stuff. Again, a tremendous help to us amateurs.
Forgot to mention, yes I've watched all of your th400/425 a few dozen times over. Your referenced video on the check balls is what prompted my question. Thanks again for taking the time to answer.
Nick, when you were building up the direct drum, you ALMOST made it to the end without calling a roller clutch a "roller type sprag". This is a pet peeve of mine. Several builders on RU-vid use this incorrect terminology. There is no such thing as a "roller type sprag". A roller clutch is a roller clutch. A mechanical diode is a mechanical diode. AND, a sprag is a sprag. "Roller type one way clutch" would be correct but NOT "roller type sprag". Otherwise, good info. EDIT: I re-watched and you did not use this incorrect terminology. My statement still stands though. And the dogbones are not rollers.
Thanks for double-checking and watching...Lol, yea a roller type sprag would be a one-way assembly where some of the elements are rollers while the others are dog bones...Would be a very odd part, indeed...I appreciate your attention to detail and agree - the terminology should always be correct at all times. I sometimes mix/match nomenclature when discussing those parts in real life but try to avoid doing so on film so not to confuse anyone who is just leaning. Can't guarantee it won't happen at all though.
@nickstransmissions Direct,Forward, Intermediate Pistons, I just found a 475 in percent condition, but everyone said change out steel pistons so sourced some used aluminum pistons from older 400
You can run either/or in most applications. The main thing with the pistons is to get the those with a height that matches your plans for the clutch stack. Both aluminum and steel pistons are selective and will allow 4,5 and 6 clutches in either fwd or direct, depending on which specific ones you have. Not sure if you were aware but in case you didnt know, now you do. Carefully check aluminum pistons for cracking; same with steel
Never heard of that forum but yes - if you're using a trans brake and putting out big power then you shouldn't be using factory pistons at all but instead running billet aluminum pistons for the Fwd, Dir and Int. ATS, Coan Racing and FTI all sell such pistons...The factory pistons have been known to crack (aluminum) or warp (steel) under much higher line pressures and shift speeds when dealing with big power/torque motors...850HP and above, I will use billet pistons and HD billet apply plates...
