The #1 Lesson From Climbing with Adam Ondra // Tom Randall of Lattice Training 

My goal this year is climbing 6C. at the start of the year i started climbibg 6B with a lot of struggle. Starting to flash them now. In love with making progress even if the steps are little

This was very insightful, thank you! I've sort of been running into this unbalanced conditioning lately myself. I've never mamaged to send any 5.12 in the gym but I found a 5.12c that I find inspiring and have been working on sending it (I also admittedly think it would be funny to send 5.12c before I send 5.12a) and I've been finding that my calf muscles are actually a bit of a limiting factor because has so many long tensiony moves. (It is also interesting that calves would be such an issue on a steep route)

Love your content. It helps me a lot.

usually my routine is to go bouldering twice a week for 3 hours and than i do some calistenics training twice a week for an hour when im not climbing. so i get a total of 4 days of training, two on which i do climbing specific stuff and two days on which i do full body with focus on muscle groups that dont get used by climbing the other 3 days are rest days. for flexibility i do a daily 10min morning yoga after weaking up and my results so far are looking pretty good. started 6 month ago with bouldering doing begginer problems and now im up to doing 6a-6c problems with the occasionally 7a sloper problem. progression is pretty good so far and i solved my first 7a overhang last week so im still improving. gonna start including fingerstrenght excercises with the calistenics stuff in the next month or so, at the moment crimps are still okay and usable with pinches being my weakest hold (currently trying to do some grip strength focused stuff and a lot of problems with pinches to solve that).

I WISH Chris Sharma would eat, sleep and live Lattice Training for a couple of years, I honestly think Sharma is the biggest underperformer currently climbing because he has this 'climbing is training' attitude holding him back and in spite of that still climbs insanely hard.

great video

Tom casually in a video call looking like his hair was having an awakening is why I love this channel.

Can you do a more specific video about which muscle groups exactly should be trained as a part of this more wholistic focus ?

Makes sense what he’s saying about amateur progression. Training your arms is obviously essential but general athletic performance will correlate much better with athletic training. If your whole body is conditioned for good performance you are going to use far less energy to power your whole body; consequently, giving critical, specific muscles the energy they require and making anaerobic recovery much more efficient.

I think that if the point of training is to climb harder and your training regimen works for you then screw what the “experts” think they know, you’re right based on the fact that it works for you.

This is so interesting thanks! I've been climbing 1 year and 2 months now, mostly only indoor and my progression has be through the roof I think, only bouldering x2 a week, not started 'training' yet but I plan too soon. In my Gym I wont say the grades I've hit but there are currently 4 routes I have done yet, 2 I've barely pulled on except tonight, 1 i think will go if I've got the time. But I look forward to learning more about training etc, been outdoors maybe 9/10 times, managed my first 7a down Hartland quay the other week, different ball game outside!

Here from the AJ pod!

I always take a huge huge huge grain of salt with any training advice that people at the top of a sport give. They're genetic freaks who are able to dedicate their whole life to the sport. They could be doing things totally wrong and would still be incredible

Ask GPT-4

I say the focus should be on PLAY and FUN. After all, one is only climbing a piece of inanimate rock or plastic holds on plywood walls.

I am in my mid forty and my major issue is recovery time. I climb V4/V5, but I can't go to the gym more than 3 times per week, sometimes I have to rest 2 days after a 2 hours session, especially if I pull really hard on boulders at my limit, which is very common. It's my tendons, and my fingers. I can't climb every day, or I would probably get injured. Anyone is in my same situation? I climbed yesterday and I would love to go again today, but I can't. My muscles are ok, but my tendons need to rest a bit more.

The clip with Adam Ondra is obviously from Croatia where he on sighted Spomin (8c) multipitch:

can you train me tom!

No disrespect to Tom but for me is weird to listen “Adam training is not even 9a” because how can Tom know what is a 9c workout when only 2 guys did a 9c? What if Will Bosi starts to work with Adam and lands a 9c? I am new to climbing but not new to training in general and most of the times what works for one individual doesnt work to another. Obviously there are basic stuff but look at 10 top bodybuilders, them all will have different workouts and just share the basics, look at basketball players, some barely workout at all and others hit the gym hard, it really is an individual thing at high level. They can measure performance but we might never be able to measure advance training in general besides the basic concept, for example in climbing: flexibility, mobility, finger strength, core strength and back strength, this is the basics, how do you really obtain it? It is individual in my humble opinion, might be wrong.

I think training is way overrated, it waistes energy.