Adam Ondra #86: Tips for Better Clipping / Sid Lives 8c+ 

Poor guys who are now 8C+ climbers.

@@Fonzleberry lmao

Sorry to be off topic but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot the password. I love any tips you can give me.

@Atticus Koa it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thanks so much, you saved my ass !

@Noel Jesus Glad I could help =)

it takes 0.00 seconds to skip a clip, so efficient.

just go climbing with a parachute no clips needed

next time, I will ask to Alex Honnold what is the best way to clip. Answer, don't clip, do free solo :D

I second this concern

wait, why does the direction of the route matter?

@@Destort If the route traverses, say, to the right and you clip with the gate of the carabiner to the right, worst case scenario the rope can unclip if you fall. Takes some bad luck though, but still, in theory it can happen...

@@Destort The general rule is that the gate of the carabiner should face the other direction you are climbing so when you fall there is no chance that the rope will end up on the gate and therefore brake it or unclip it.

@@Destort You want to have the gate face away from the direction you are climbing. While climbing the quickdraw may lift or is pushed around and depending on the rock formation its possible that the gate is pushed open during a fall. When placed so its facing away you minimize this risk. Its a small thing and you always should think about how the quickdraw may move. There is no all time rule how to clip it depends on the rock.

Love subtle tricks like that!

How would you clip out while falling? That's not how carabiners work. You have to apply pressure from the outside to open it, not the inside.

@@phin422 back clipping results in the possibility of the rope exiting the carabiner on its own. Ropes do wild things sometimes. If it takes almost no extra effort, I like to be as safe as possible but 99,999 out of 10,000 if not more it won't matter. Its preference mostly.

@@phin422 The rope going from the clip to the climber applies the pressure from outside..hold a carabiner gate facing up (direction the carabiner will be climbing) and pull the rope top down (like a falling climber).

@@MaxPhotograph Yeah, I guess that makes sense. Never seen one done like that before, though.

It is possible, even if you have to be very unlucky! And a professional, if not the best climber out there, should know this and talk about it..

You should watch the figure 8 knot series from the channel Hard is Easy. He goes over what makes some variations of the knot harder to untie than the others. Its a very good series and helped me fix my hard to untie knots. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PJkCaUUhqgs.html&ab_channel=HardIsEasy

@Yokai Use this one and you'll be happy... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1uo_Ohq_gVg.html I always use the rethreaded bowline, or in german, doppelter Bulin, from day 1 I started climbing. Never had issues to open the knot. If you understand german, here's a well explained tutorial in german language... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-t4lnFEzsnbU.html Stay safe... ✌🏻

He uses a single Bowline where his tail is secured with a stopper knot. If interested in other more safe tie-in Bowlines I recommend reading through this article based on Mark Gommers’ paper on bowlines: zenandtheartofclimbing.com/tying-bowline/

I‘d definitively would recommend a Double bowline maybe Even with a stopper knot. Single bowline makes me shiver…😵‍💫 I‘m 95 kilos and that works really good. But there‘s also a way to do the 8knot so it’s more easy to release, check out „hard is easy“ Channel 😊

Adam uses a bowline follow through and it’s the safest bowline you can tie into. Check out Ryan Tilley’s video on bowline tie ins

This

@@earlgrey2130 jajaja This?

True, but it s not a law. You want to make sure that the gate on the bolt moves freely and no rock feature interferes with it, side is not important. On the hanging biner yes it s safer if it s on the opposite of climber in principle, but if the biner twists it suddenly becomes the worst scenario. When gate is facing the climber might be a tradeoff

Adam could visit Magnus new gym, that would be nice.

Haha! Ok

If it's an overhanging/traversing route you can't toprope. It's also much faster to lead, since you do not need to set up an anchor. Multipitch also cannot be top roped.

They had one planned apparently, then covid happened

Understatement of the century...He climbs as a f...ing spider!

*applause

I’m curious to know too.

As I have noticed: Not for multi-pitch, but for most sport. Not for competitions since I think they have to abide by some standard rules. Bowline knot variations has a clear advantage that they are often. easier to untie after hard and long falls than figure-8 - but you should know what you are doing before trying them out.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DeHmZMUOF-k.html Sorry, I only know it’s French name. Le nœud de chaise ended with a fisherman’s knot for double security. I think it’s English name is a bowline knot or double bowline. I’m not sure.

@@devieilleroche ah yes it's just a bowline, i can see it now. didn't know that was considered safe for climbing...

Single Bowline with a stopper knot.

Jørgen Jensen I wouldn’t recommend it to the general public, but everyone has to do their own research and weigh pros and cons with their tie-in knot. Mark Gommers has a great paper on bowlines and their secure tie-in variants

video is 11min long and 1min after the upload you comment "sick" ok... clown :D

@@theperserker I know its going to be good. What do you have against clowns?

@@noahk1031 of course...but "sick" is something you can't really say without watching :D nothing...i just find it amusing, lik clowns^^

Gotta respect local ethics!

@@GavynPendleton Starting to trend away from ethics and more towards ego. I respect ethics not egos

Can you clarify - do you mean the lower gate should be the opposite direction of the upper gate of the next bolt ?

On overhanging routes it's not going to matter as much. He's gonna be way more familiar with that thought process, but I was also surprised it wasn't mentioned. "When clipping stance is good, one can focus on safety by keeping the gates facing away" would have been a great quick one liner!

why is more safe?

@@lucaa4480 Because the rope will not be rubbing against the gate or potentially pulling it into the rock and opening it

@@duncanwright8392 no, only opposite to the higher bolt. If you climb only to the right side and every next bolt is more on right then the lower one, all your gates should be facing to the left. So if you fall, the rope will be on the opposite side of the gate and there is no chance to unclip it.

Agreed, that would have helped on some of my very sketchy starts

definitely. It helps all aspects of climbing 😂

I hope that the next tutorial will be about screaming and how to use it in the most efficient way :-D

Screaming always helps bruv 😁

@@JBereza good tip for April fool episode

Yeah I was told the same. The opening should face away from the route direction for safety.

This is the case when there is a fall potential and the resulting fall would possibly loop over the draw and unclip itself. This kind of thing, even though always taught is very rare. And virtually impossible on overhanging routes. So I would say don't worry about it too much unless it's a slabby section or there's a small overhang that the draw is on where the rope might then run a bit tight through the draw. In any case it's specific to each route and I'd say don't worry about it too much as long as you're clipped correctly and there isn't lots of rope drag. If the draws hang nicely and the rope runs nicely through it then it's very unlikely to occur.

@@IliaNadyrbayev I disagree, unclipping is quite common. Happened to me twice, and have seen it in mayb 8 other occasions over the years. But you have a point with steep routes - lessens the probability of unclipping.

I was told that you should especially pay attention to this if there's a risk of a huge sideways fall, so when the route makes a significant turn after the bolt you're clipping and that otherwise it rarely makes the difference. Makes sense to me.

@@katarzynamazurkiewicz6012 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TXvLlrfT1W8.html

a protože jsi čech

You again? Hello! Is it really so frustrating that someone more experienced says his honest opinion? And what shall Adam do next, always upgrade so that nobody feels offended?

tom p I’m not sure if you’re a climber or just a fan of the sport, but those who take climbing seriously know the work involved in reaching a certain level. Hours upon hours of training followed by endless days of climbing. All of this to make the most fractional of improvements. I highlight this to say that there are other very very talented and skilled climbers in the world. These climbers put hours upon hours of time into the routes that they ascend. So it’s not like they’re kids who need an adult to come and establish a sense of order. They are very well qualified in their own rights to grade according to how they feel the climb felt to them. And when they celebrate an accomplishment based on how they feel the climb felt, I do not think it’s good form to constantly publicly downgrade climbs simply because they do not feel as difficult to you. As I’ve stated before, if the sport is going to grow, there needs to be an admission that progress is possible. And if Adam is going to be the measuring stick, then maybe the bat simply needs to be raised and routes need to be graded accordingly. Maybe we’re living in the age of monumental improvement (a la Usain Bolt in track and field). And maybe things feel easier to Adam because he’s simply taken the next step. I would hate though to grade a route as then have that accomplishment stripped because of what someone else says.

@@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog "those who take climbing seriously know the work involved in reaching a certain level" - so does Adam "very well qualified in their own rights to grade according to how they feel the climb felt to them" - so is Adam "I do not think it’s good form to constantly publicly downgrade climbs simply because they do not feel as difficult to you" - He shall lie, deny, shut up, this is what you suggest " there needs to be an admission that progress is possible" - yes, and the progress must be real, not virtual, that´s why every opinion should be heard "if Adam is going to be the measuring stick" - He is not, some others listen to him as if he is, guess why I am no a pro, I climb for fun, and I cannot believe you are serious.

tom p I never knew exactly what people meant when they would refer to commenters as “trolls”....but now I do. I left a comment stating an opinion (which is what the comments section is for). I’ve actually spoken to pro climbers who feel the same way I do. And that’s not saying that Adam should simply shut up and climb, but it is saying that it’s ok to allow other people to own and live in their successes. And by feeling the incessant need to downgrade what seems like everything that you yourself didn’t first ascend, you come across as though you are devaluing the accomplishments of others. When Adam makes a first ascent and grades the route then that is his accomplishment, and it’s no one’s place to come behind him and try and show him up by playing the “I know you thought you sent this “insert grade”, but you actually didn’t. So again, I have a ton of respect for Adam and what he continues to do in the sport. He is unquestionably one of the best climbers in the world. I just wish that he would respect the opinions of others and allow their grades to stick. Because when he speaks, people listen, and the credit that people achieve when they assess grades shouldn’t later be discounted or devalued, and that is what I see happening when Adam repeats a climb and then downgrades it. And for what it’s worth, I enjoy dialogue and listening to the opinions of others, but I do not enjoy having my comments trolled in an attempt to engage in argumentative banter. So I won’t be replying after this to anything else, thankyou and have a great day sir. 😃✌🏽

@@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog Very classy way to deal with someone that prefers to spit on someone's opinion instead of having a constructive conversation. Kudos to you, fellow climber ! =)

Yes, this is really strange. I always thought the gate should be oposite to direction of climbing.

@@PapousWebNode I learned exactly the same thing, but more like it's better to opposite it, not totally essential...

As long as you don't back clip the direction doesn't matter, it's only safer to have it opposed where you climb just in case you back clip, then the rope can't come out

@@nicdes5540 oh man this makes perfect sense, i was always taught to do it but could never understand why! Now it is clear

@@nicdes5540 It does still matter even when you don't backclip. There is a chance that the rope may unclip itself especially if the route is traversing. It is quite unlikely though especially on sport routes which are usually quite straight.

Sorry dude. One of the big myths of climbing. It really doesn’t matter which way the gate faces off the qdraws. It’s physically impossible for the rope to run across the gate unless you’re back-clipped, which is a huge problem anyways. I know you’ll come back at me and say something, but you’re wrong. It truly doesn’t matter. Physically. Impossible.

@@nigellax454my dear nige. Thank you for your great comment. Please find some videos where the unclipping happens in real climbing. Also Petzl lab workshops where they demonstrate how this is possible. AND I can attest from personal experience (that's me climbing) where this unclipping event has happened (fortunately without injuries). So, if youre going solo climbing then keep clipping whatever. Or don't even bother. Hope you never encounter this but most importantly you never teach those ways to others (including your kids). Cheers and climb on.