This instruction video will show you how to install the Marks 4WD Adaptors 80 / 100 Series Part Time 4WD Kit into your vehicle. If you need any assistance please visit www.the4wdshed.com
Super - Thats perfect. My rear housing is leaking, due to bad silicon sealing and I needed a tutorial showing me, what to expect, when taking it off and reseal. Thanks so much!
ABS relocation clip ? I'd like to install this kit to my Lexus LX470 which has ABS of coarse so would love to know the particulars on what's needed and how to do it please mate ! Love the detail and thoroughness of your narration , very well done ! Easy to follow and very concise > Thank you very much for uploading .
Excellent and very clearly explained video - If you carry out this conversion does it mean you are unable to run 4WD on tarmac roads due to having no front to back differential?
Excellent, thank you for taking the time to do this.Just a small observation - rather than use your thumb to stop the taper lock washers flying off when you use the hammer, leave the nut on to capture the washer and also protects the stud thread if the hammer slips
Couple of steps you missed for those doing this at home... When installing the new spool its recommended to add a little molybdenum disulphide grease (LMM) to the nylon surface that is pressed against the front gear to aid in lubrication. Secondly, when installing the bolts add a drop of loctite and dont just rattle gun them on, use a torque wrench. As per the toyota factory service manual torque the bolts to 88nm (in an alternating pattern), then loosen the bolts before re-torquing back to 88nm. I also personally recommend when torquing any sort of bolts to do it in stages, so first pass would be say 25nm, next pass at say 55nm before the final pass at 88nm. This ensures the flange mounts perfectly flat, the torque figure ensures you don't strip a bolt and the loctite ensures they don't come loose. Far too many back yard mechanics skipping important steps to save a few minutes or because they don't have the tools. A decent torque wrench can be had for less than $150... When reinstalling the rear case dont hit the flange surface with a metal hammer, use a rubber mallet and where possible don't hit the mating surface. Again use loctite and torque the bolts to 37nm. When installing the front free wheeling hubs, use a drop of loctite and torque to 37nm (as per toyota FSM). Final tip, whenever applying silicon to a mating surface ensure you give it a wipe down with wax and grease remover (leaving to dry for 5 minutes). Applying silicon over an oily surface may result in leaks.
Can you use both loctite and grease on bolt threads before reinstalling? I like using grease to protect threads from rusting solid being in the rust belt. Also it allows for accurate torque by preventing sticking. But I dont want the bolt to come out so I'd also use loctite, would it still work with grease?
Can you explain how the differential diff assembly you are removing and replacing. Are you mechanically locking the front and rear together without the spline gear? Or are you completely disconnecting the front? by changing this gear and bearing? Can you please explain. What exactly does that rotating center gear do? Why could you just add the front disconnect hubs without changing the gears inside the transfer case? Wouldn't iconic front the hubs? Also does this now in 4wd create binding in snow? or lose gravel because you removed the Dif gear distribution? Sorry novice here. thanks..
G'day bud.. DAMN!.. That's a nice old injury to your arm.. ouch!... I have a 2000 model 79 series cruiser, it just popped in the gearbox like it popped out 2 wheel/ 4wd in transfer case, went to put back in gear and have no gears at all.. Nothing in 2wd or 4wd and no reverse.. Is there a common problem that makes this happen?.. Box was not making any strange noise's before this, now all i get is a grindy type noise and gears won't engage.. Thanks.
I am midway through installing this kit. Regarding preload on the bearing that is replaced by buying the DIY kit how do I know it doesn't require different shims?
Hi, the job normally takes about 4hrs to complete, so depending on their charge out rate, and it has no impact on ARB or any other type of diff lock installed
Don’t squash your coco pops box, excellent for rear case bolts, also mark tail shaft where it was ! so no unnecessary vibe if it was balanced perfect before-
hey The 4WD Shed, found this video very intuitive and no nonsense, which is awesome, you are very calm and to the point, found this video because I have a slight leak from my transfer case on my 2002 Hilux FVZ-FE which I would like to fix before long, you make it look easy, I was concerned about whether the whole thing had to come off the vehicle to reseal the case, which clearly by this this video is not the case, I am relieved.
Hi Cal, this info only applies to the HF2A 80 series and 100/105 series constant 4wd transfer case other models differ so the information in this video will not apply to the Hilux
I got free wheeling hubs at thr front diff in my 80 series ( which has a like a switch to turn to 2wd and 4wd) Does that mean I need to check the spool in my tranfser aswel and change it to part time kit spool?
i was thinking of doing the same until i came across Andrew St Piere channel 4xoverland "Why full-time to Part-time" it made me make a decision and save $$$ and time.
Less power required to run the drive line without pushing the front diff around for no good reason, better economy & much better pickup while passing traffic above 80 kms and handling is much more predictable too.
This is an excellent video, you took the time to explain everything. Very helpful from a nomenclature perspective. I don’t think I will be going part time on my HDJ81 but if I do, your video will be very helpful.
how bout the transfer shift lever, , how to switch from 2x4 h to 4x4 h, , the lever only goes high then low, , not like the usual L type of lever,,, would the ' 4h ' button on the dash be utelized to shift from 2h to 4h ?
To select H4 after you have engaged the free wheeling hubs, is simply a matter of pushing the center diff lock button (CDL) the orange light will come on to show you are in high 4. L4 is simply engaged by moving the transfer case lever, the CDL engages automatically
The reason for doing this is as the driveline wears, it gets a lot of backlash in it making the car feel quite clunky, when changing gears or when you are sitting in traffic and you are on and off the throttle. by not driving the front diff it eliminates all the slop from the drive flanges, CV shafts, front diff, tail shaft and center diff. This makes the car much smother to drive and eliminates torque steer
Well there is truth to that too, I have LX450 1996 , LC 100 2001 and LC 2009 they are 4WD all drives drives and works a swiss watch with no problems that you indicating,
Sergey Khochay I had a front drive flange and outer axle strip out from 380000 miles of wear . then found out my center differential would not lock so I could get home . I'm my experience if something is going to break axle wise is usually the front . this allows you to disengage drive to the front and not turn it giving you a chance to get home in 2wd.
Hi Bob, there are a number of reasons why people may make the change. For us personally we have both an 80 Series (installed) the 100 Series (full time) The 80 was horrible to drive with the backlash & after installing it made a huge improvement in the way it drives. The 100 Series is our tow car & we havent found the need to install one as it handles beautifully.
Truck? you dont need a truck license to drive a Land Cruiser! seriously if you call that a truck what do you call real trucks? space shuttles? what do you call Tractors? Aircraft carriers?
Hi i have hdj81 land cruiser 1994 i have one problem can you help me on this i have center difflock stuck how i will free it or can i convert in to full time4wd to part time 4wd
Thanks for this video can I get full video of how repair transmission box of a Toyota Land Cruiser from start to finish, I mean complete overhauling thanks
👋 hi Dears Kindly, i would enquiry if the peace No 454 AVM FITS land cruiser 1997 FZJ80 ? If doesn’t fits which parts would you suggest to fit m y car FZJ80 . I appreciate
protip: don't use avm hubs. their little torx screws are shit and bound to strip / break when you're doing your bearings one day. get aisin hubs with proper hex bolts.
does this conversion mean there is no need to use the centre diff lock button in the cabin. And will the light still come on on the centre diff lock button and the dash when low range is engaged.
The center diff lock (CDL) works the same as it did prior to the conversion, so when you engage low range the CDL will automatically engage still and the light will come on
Hi great vid. However i seem to have a problem. After following this vid step by step in installing to my 105 series cruiser, i am now finding that nothing engages when i select a gear. Reading that if the gear sets are dislodged or moved rearwards when removing the rear housing, the high range selector fork moves, allowing a detent ball to be dislodged. is this an easy fix?
If this is the case you would need to remove and dismantle the transfer case. I have never seen this happen. Just make sure the transfer case lever is in high range and not in neutral
Exactly what happened, i had possibly knocked Tcase lever into neutral. Just did the Tele, Frenchman's and Creb with no problems. great vid! thanks again.
I'm lucky my HDJ has a part time T-case from the factory paired with lock out hubs and a 5 speed. Love it but it's geared too low for the highway even with 33's.
walter black all landcruisers are short geared. screamin at 100kmh. thats ok though cause theyre not made for the highway. i just cruise along at 90 in my big girl.
I know but this is worse. The automatic HDJ's have a higher top gear and cruise along nicely on the highway and manual 5 speed european HDJ's have 3.7's in them so they fair better as well. JDM manual HDJ's have 4.11's. I would love to have 3.7 euro diffs with e-lockers! It would still be plenty low enough for the trails.
Nice work, I am watching to buy a FZJ80 91 Auto with HF2A transfer case. The truck has the front wheels hub but is being use with the center diff lock button On all the time that has the front Hub in FREE position. My question is: do this mode of operation make some wear on the center diff lock and solenoid?
Remove original diff cover. Discard spiders. Clean diff cover and rear gear thoroughly. Weld rear gear in place in the diff cover. Re-install. Purchase $69 free-wheeling hub kit and install. The end.
So I installed this and my 4wheel drive doesn’t turn the front shaft done exactly as was showed can someone tell me what the problem is I use to have a part time transfer case in it originally but could only find a full time case help
The front tail shaft will only be driven when either the Centre Diff Lock (CDL) is engaged or you select Low range. The free wheeling hubs will also need to be engaged.
Great job Just to make sure I understand your goal ... is it to convert full time 4wd to be part time 4wd ? And is it applicable to all full time 4wd for models 200 series ?
Yes it is to convert the full time transfer case to part time, this kit is available for the 80, 100 and 105 series Landcruiser only , there is no kit for the 200
Great Vid, if I stab the throttle from stationary or whilst coasting in my 1fz 105 Auto A442F I get a loud clunk noise if I throttle easily it doesn't do it. However, if I press the centre diff lock which gives me H4 and stab the throttle it doesn't clunk. What is this and would this kit eliminate that. Cheers
great vid mate. gonna help me heaps with my install soon. just wondering why do u need to change the flanges. cant u just remove the gears inside and put it back together without changing it over. then u wouldnt have to press the bearing on and off. im still a bit unsure on how they work. thanks
The replacement Hub (flange) is where the magic happens, if you were to just remove the spider gear and resemble it the car would have no drive at all, the spider gear drives the rear output shaft. that spine inside the factory hub. Put simply the output flange is two piece that allows the spine to spin in a differential action, on the replacement flange it is one piece as the spine that drives the rear output shaft is part of the flange rear output.
great video! , only one question, if the car comes with a center diff lock (Sahara) does it needs to have the center diff removed? . or would this free wheeling locks will work with the diff locks on? thanks
Great Video. Helped me out a lot with my DIY kit. A video for ABS Relocation Kit (or a full front end incl swivel hubs) would be tops too!As for our car, our 105 series w/ 206,000kms, we can feel it drives smoother now. Also feels a bit more spritely not having to drive two diffs (or really, 3 diffs) all the time.Very happy with the kit and the video.
if you remove the spider gears you would have no drive at all as the spider gears are what transfer the drive to either the front or rear wheels, the replacement spool directs drive to the rear only until the center diff lock is engaged directing drive to both front and rear
