I'm having trouble getting my knuckle to Line up with the trunnions. I've identified the brass spindle bushing that was part of your ultimate Knuckle kit as the problem. My axle won't sit all the way in the bushing. If I tap it in with a hammer it's so tight I can't rotate the axle. I have to tap the axle into my knuckle/spindle assembly and then install the whole thing in the housing for it to line up. But the axle is super tight against the bushing and I can't turn it by hand. Any ideas?
hi ,, items u missed 1/ in water crossing corrosion can occur inside hub ,, load this with moly disulphide grease prevents this 2/ centralize axle vs seal location check ,,,,,,, , do this after u have worked out equal shim packs for bearing preload first then add and subtract shim packs to raise or lower axle height ,, special tool needed 3/ Although steering load is applied by knuckle bearing preload , and optional steering damper ,,the solution for big wheels is to run positive caster by having adjustable / selectable wheel alignment knuckle bearings
As commented below, the knuckle centering tool was not used. I understand not necessary if it's been done already, but this video does not address the issue? Just a thick and a thin shim shown?
I had installed the shims thinking there were only two sizes of shims: “thick” and “thin”. I found out later the kit I bought has three or four different sizes and now I think my shims may have a .1 mm difference. Will .1 mm cause major damage if I drive around just until I get the new set of shims? And can I possibly change out the shims without removing the hub? I’m trying to prevent buying gaskets all the way to the knuckle.
Sooooo im running 33 inch mud tyres on 15x10 (-44) steelies what pounds of force should mine have to be and what is considered "oversized tyres" (i have Hilux Ln106, which would be a 4x4 runner im geussing in America)
I'm working on a MK 2 Hilux. In the seal kit I purchased, in the U.K., there is a thick felt gasket, that is to be liberally coated with grease, that sits behind the rubber wiper seal and in front of the top and bottom rock rings. You don't show it on here. Is there a reason you don't use one?.
Hi dear Im facing some problem with my FJ62 - 1987 model. When using the 4x4 gear (high and low gear) the vehicle is getting jam when I turn right or left, but on moving to front or reverse its moving normally, I recently serviced to both differential and changed all the seals and bearings, and axle, I tried to lift the vehicles four tyres on a jack, and run it with the 4x4 high and low gear with turning the string right and left and it doesn’t got jammed, but on getting the vehicle on the ground the same thing happened on turning the steering the tyres getting jammed. Even I checked the break system and no any issue found in it. Do any one faced same problem as this, or any idea what the issue could be. Also I open really diff I find it broken also change
I noticed that you did not use the SST for determining the upper and lower shims necessary to center the knuckle..... your method may allow you to meet preload specs but will not guarantee that the knuckle is centered. Am I missing something? Great video btw.
Great video very well done. But I myself have read the Toyota manual. And they said to use the sst tool as well. Being a mechanic. And owning a shop.. I find it odd the specs where not followed, and an assumption of axle center.
Gracias excelente información yo arregló mi camioneta y estos tutoriales me sirven muy bien para evitar romper piezas armando sin fallas aquí en México solo sacan la mitad o ya empezados o armados batallando como empezar o terminar en hora buena gracias y que tengan un buen dia
great instructional video. my steering arm in my hilux '93 solid axle just broke. can I just remove and replace the steering arm by just removing the top 4 nuts, tie rod nut and draglink? or do I need to bring down everything starting from the locking hub to the knuckle housing?
Just undo the steer arm bolts, and steering link, you will have to tap on top of studs to loosen cone washers around studs. Be careful not to damage threads. Keep nut on and on top of stud to protect studs.
Optional but personally I do, especially with how easily the inner axle seals fail and leak oil into the swivel hub housing. It eats away the grease and ruins your cv joint. The more grease you have packed in there the longer it’ll take to eat it away
Rebuilding the front diff on my BJ42 and aside from a few tiny differences, these videos translate to my diff perfectly. These are also the best videos I could find on the subject, thank you so much for lending us your knowledge and expertise.
My 1980 is popping when I put it in 4-wheel drive with a hugs locked when I go to the right do I need to replace my shift parents or just MasterChef bearings look good
+3stagevtec We just finished a video on how to grease the birfield. Here is the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3PXySEFVBQs.html As to packing grease in the housing, it depends on where you do most of your wheeling. If you are in a dry climate, like we are out here in the west, we do not recommend adding extra grease to the housing. Extra grease in the housing makes things so messy if you have to replace an axle out on the trail or even in the shop. However, if you go wheeling where there is a lot of water, the extra grease in the housing can be very beneficial in helping to keep water out of the birfield joint, trunnion bearings, axle housing, etc. Thanks for viewing and commenting.