I build my AOS7 just few days ago... Aaaaaaaaamazing drone! Im only 14 months in hobby and even for me was easy to tune this one coz this guy make this drone perfectly ! Amazing job you did , bravo 👏🏻
Well the AOS5 may not be the ultimate frame and its utilitarian design look may not be pleasing but most of Steele's rant was based on "i think" and pretty baseless also for people like Steele who are pretty rigid with what they use so much so to fly the same piece of kit that they did 2 years ago something new and innovative getting turned down isnt surprising , he is an awesome pilot no doubt but he definitely doesnt have the right to outright disrespect someones passion work the way he did.
It's nice to see someone thinking innovatively about this hobby. So many FPV products are just repeats with slight modifications. I love the way you solved the carbon orientation problem on the arms. Very creative.
Amazing frame and a great review fr the aos-7 in . Very Interesting way of using two xt 60 I eve had gly a 7 inch drone and i think his is a very good opportunity to break he routine thank u for this video.
Just finished my build. It's awesome. Just one note on something I stumbled upon just now: If you fly reversed motor direction, the gopro mount will get hit by the props. At least the mounts i've printed so far. Don't know if it's just me or it didn't come up yet. Thank you for your work and passion Chris!
Hi Metz, just curious to know the difference between directions of the prop for this issue , just building my AOS7 now and I usually fly reversed prop direction
@@Simofly the direction I use is the reversed aswell. I had to redesign the mount with a little bit more height so that it wouldn't hit. At the time i talked to Chris about it, don't know if there's another version of the mount by now. I have the stl around somewhere. If you need it just let me know.
Had my first hard dump with my AOS5 build today. My only complaint is the GoPro mounting solution as it ripped free of the mounting bolts in the crash even with washers. Have you considered running a horizontal cross standoff on the camera plates to then use as a beam to mount the GoPro TPU. The UmmaGawd MoonGoat and the Catalyst Machineworks frames use this kind of mounting and I've found it to be a LOT more durable as I've never had a failure.
Thanks for the feedback, I'm amazed the mount came loose with washers on you must have been going for it! Did the TPU break around the hole? or did the whole washer pull through? Perhaps a straight brace piece across the front two screws could solve that problem. Then the mount cannot pull through?
Frame looks great! But why only 2 screws on each arm instead of 4? There is enough place for 2 more screws. It dont looks good for me to safe such a heavy 8mm arm just with a aluminum standoff! Two more screws on each arm secured with press nuts would be a great deal. Are there any plans to release a optimized v2 of this frame?
The arm is sandwiched between 5mm of carbon so is quite secure with a steel screw. It's hard to improve on the arm design for this frame which is why there has been no V2. I'm planning a 7" ultralight which will be pretty exciting but not competing directly with this design. This is actually one of the frames I get the most positive feedback about so it has a special place in my heart!
@@ChrisRosser Thanks for your answer. Would really like to give it a try. But can't find a shop in Europe that is selling this Fram except the drone fpv Racer shop in France. But it's out of stock there. So where I can buy this frame here in Europe? 🤔
Excellent design and overview, thanks for sharing. One important flight preformance metric is G's for me, enable ACC, of course fly in acro, hover, enable BB recording, punch out for ~2 sec. What is the peak G's on Z axis? My 5 year old quad does 9 G's (15.5 in turns). The light weight guys are getting 15G's in punch out. Of course everybody is different, but this number rates near the top of my requirements, also sub quarter sec rolls and frame reliability.
Chris, you pulled your reply,,, anyways, if you every get around to finding out the G's it pulls in a punchout, I would be interested, a BB log would also go along ways as it shows the peak G's and how long it took to get there, thanks.
Hey Ozzy! I didn't reply earlier, must have been someone else. Gs is less important for me. In my freestyle I rarely use full throttle. I focus on propwash performance and smoothness of the HD footage. Your metric might be more appropriate for racing.
@@ChrisRosser I’ve seen Ozzy fly and must say I have never seen anything like it. All LOS and the Tasmanian devil is craaaaazy! This will be the ultimate test of your frame 😃💪
I'm guessing that sandwiched arm interface at each motor base makes one awesome mechanical low frequency resonance filter in addition to the arm features. I'm curious to see how the BB data will look under BF4.3 with just the RPM and single BiQuad Dterm arrangement. (or maybe just a PT on the DTerm???)
Is there a V2 in the works? Airunit should be behind the stack, since all FCs have the DJI connector on the back. I really like the symmetric design and wide top plate. Most 7" have a very small top plate and not that much room.
On larger frames the length of the camera cable on the vista and air unit prevents rear mounting. This is the case for digital video systems. Analog can be rear mounted.
Got one of these on the way, got a tight tuned 7" already with 3106 1500kv and this frame should suit components great.... Seems like I always have 20-40km/h winds when I'm tuning so I love me a stiff frame....
Interesting how at 7" we start to see more function over form in the design. I quite like the look of the AOS5, not so much the 7. Also, have you noticed any adverse effects of having the camera way out in front like that? Some pilots mention the visual appearance of pitch moves being compromised with cameras that far forward.
One of the key design considerations was keeping props out of view and having a very long top plate to carry 6000+mAh 6S packs for long range. That led to a longer neck on this quad I think it looks quite a bit more balanced with GoPro and batteries.
There is plenty of room in that frame, why is the camera sticking out in the front? Seems like the camera is going get destroyed even on a minor crash.
how to make long range with the video antennas hidden like this? I loved the logic and was about to buy it, until I saw that the antennas don't seem to be in a good position. what do you think?
Hi, there are a couple of options here. If you have over 10k subscribers and can drive significant frame sales then we can certainly discuss a collaboration. Alternatively I do offer patreon tiers for support with your frame designs.
Hi chris, im looking at buying an aos7 but i cant find any 3d print files for a gps + sma also Traditional gopro mount and crossfire mount, does the aos falcon 7 fit?
That thing is huge! Really impressive how you managed to achieve such great results even with more challenging class. Maybe try some lightweight class in the future, most design compromise vibration to achieve low weight.
@@ChrisRosser This will be very interesting to me, since you design exclusively top mount frames, and I've been pursuing top mount toothpick designs since the TP3 was released (the modular design of the TP3 allowed me to tinker, and I wound up with a top mount 2.5", and even a 2.5" "Pushpick," that provided for an inboard mounted battery which reduced the height profile by 1/3.) I'm looking forward to your design in this class (and any class, quite sincerely.) Recently, I'm pursuing fully 3D printed frames, mashing up different designs in pursuit of my own vision. With any amount of performance in mind, it seems the feasible size range with current home printers, and available filaments, is prob anything < 3". I was caught off guard by one of my recent builds, a 1S fully printed frame with 40mm props, when I discovered it flies more, "like a 5 inch," than any of the other 60 or 70 2, 3, and 4 inchers I've built and flown. It is like a little stone, yet has that throwable, floaty (not like a leaf,) super hang time kinda behavior to it, and it also has the rare (in my experience,) mix of properties where with pinch moves, the battery sags only to a point, and then sustains even under full punch, like you cant actually sag it into LV until near the end of the flight. (EX0802 19kkv + 40mm bi-blades, for the curious.) Anyway, if it happens to excite you, a fully printed (sub 3",) frame with Rosser standards/performance is another that I'd personally love to see, and a potential crowd pleaser too I believe. I am also intrigued by what you might could tell me about folding props, if theres anything interesting there. Cheers! And thank you, kind sir.
Cinelifter please! I’d be happy to test a frame. I have all the guts, I’m just not happy with any of the frames readily available. I’ve been drawing my own designs, it’s just slow going since I’m a junior designer
Hi Chris - Have you tested this setup for maximum range? If so, what was it? My main focus is the antenna setup which is not like most long range quads, when they mounted high above the frame, not like this frame. Thanks - love your content, and also I have the AOS 5.5 and I am realy happy with it.
Wes vardy has tested the DJI system out to 10km with the stock antennas. If you use a patch on the DJI goggles at 1200mW I think you could hit the range limit on the system ~13km with my antenna setup.
Does the full size dji air unit fit in the back of the frame? I'm still adamant about using SMA adapters and antennas on the rear, and it's best to have the wires as short as possible, so the front mounting wouldn't be ideal for me
Hi Chris, Another fantastic design and build! Thanks for sharing and all the work. One quick question: the antenna position is good for “short” flights but not really for mountain surfing right? What would be a good position?
That position should be good out to the range of the DJI system (13km or so) but to go longer you will need to use Analog and perhaps a different position would be better. I'm not a long range pilot so I don't want to suggest somthing that could be wrong.
Good improvements since the last frames. I also wish my aos55 had more than one strap mount (I feel insecure with just one.). I also wish the camera mount had a range of holes for different length of lens (I've got lots of room up front and the guards obscure much of the picture).
Thanks! I updated the camera plates on the AOS 5, 5.5 and 3.5 with longer slots for shorter cameras. If you ever pick up spare camera plates the new ones should be better. With the AOS 5.5 the second strap goes on the rear section as usual.
Very impressed with your approach to frame design. How do you match motors (Volts, Amps, kV), props (dia and pitch), lift vs weight? I already understand kV and motor selection for a fixed wing, but am interested how you put this together. Thanks.
The AOS 7 will go to distribution soon. I like to wait a few weeks to check that feedback from early adopters is universally positive and that no minor changes are needed. 😁
@@ZentaRobotics I'm receiving the final samples on the 14th Dec. I'll check them over and give feedback and if its all good we'll be good to go! Thanks for your patience on this 💪
That's seems to be the 7 inch frame I'm looking for ! But I'm flying analog, and my FPV camera is a 22m size. If I don't use the carbon pieces for the FPV camera, and if I design a TPU support with the front standoffs instead, do you think it is ok in a mechanical point of view ?
What's the maximum payload ? I'm thinking about redesiging top plate to fit Naked Blackmagic camera and use your arms. They seems to be pretty durable with 8mm carbon. Weight of the naked bmpcc is around 500g . I would use tmotor F100 motors. What do you think ?
@@ChrisRosser Hi Chris, do you have the design for BN880 GPS mount compatible with AOS7? Planning to order the frame, but i am thinking about the most balanced setup possible. I would appreciate your comments about the difference between HQ7x4x3/HQ7x3.5x3 for this frame in combination with XING or Avenger 2806.5(1300kv)/FPVcycle 30MM(1450/1100kv) ....i mean, what would be the best/balanced combination and if there is a specific reason to prefer/avoid one combination over another. Additionally(sorry for noob questions), is there any reason to choose a different GPS module???
Does have a battery strap only around top plate effect geometry more than if strap went around top and bottom plate. ? Might be cool to design battery straps that go through both plates so battery is really pulling on bottom plate. Tightening the whole structure
That's an interesting idea. On this frame I've got mounting for batteries top and bottom. If the strap goes around both plates I'd worry about someone really cranking the strap down hard and bending the plates together? I don't think anything would break but it doesn't feel good.
You can use my recommended filter settings and just increase the master slider to 1.5 or even higher. That will be a good place to start tuning for your build.
Lol I was sitting here watching this thinking to myself I wonder if the vibration analysis is better on my jb edition qavs lol I like it a lot only thing is that you and Wesley varty are probably the only ones that still have an air unit lol but I would strip my qavs for part in a heartbeat for an aos frame I surely would ! Just can't afford one at the moment but maybe someday
I like you videos :o) Do you have any advice on mounting a single long antenna (Vista) for as little vibration as possible and still the best range? I have not found a good solution until today
@@thomasgutweniger In my experience the quad is usually tilted forward which means the angle on the antenna is pretty perfect. I've certainly never had an issue with range or penetration doing it this way.
Does electrical tape insulate the antenna enough to be close to carbon fiber? I’ve been giving a few wraps around the cf anywhere antennas are close trying to give it some isolation.. Ive had no issuers. No idea if it’s helping or…
Hey Chris, are you aware that red props have the worst resonance out of all the colours? Clear props produce the best, the more dye they add the worse it gets. UAVTech did a video about it a few years ago.
@@ChrisRosser I spend too much time on youtube and watch almost all the videos, this is from 2018 but if you search on UAVTech's channel for "Propeller Noise Comparisons (HQ, GF, DAL, T-motor, & KK)" you should find it.
Love it, Chris! Have you tested any bi-blades? I really love the sound and efficiency of bi-blades on my current 7", but the vibration is tough to ring out. Would really be happy if I could run them on your frame...
Hi Greg, I'm afraid I've only run with triblades I'm afraid. Biblades will produce more vibration in my experience at lower frequency but if any frame can handle them well it would be the AOS 7. Thanks!
Sounds like it can really carry some lipo.. At what weight does 7” not make sense anymore and should go 9”? I have a bunch of 120c 6s 5600 packs… 850g… Was thinking I needed 9”
You spend some time arguing how a 7" will have lower resonant frequency, given increased lengths, which seems sane, but showing graphs of the 7" with a higher frequency noise peak than the 5" without explaining why made me question. Adding that there is no unit or quantifiable marks on the y-axis did not help. (declaring that 7" props are harder to balance than 5" is also a bold statement, but i assume you mean that the consequence of imbalance is greater..) I cannot see what is shown on the y-axis of your plot. nor any values. I assume it is amplitude. In that case I guess that your reinforced the frame in order to increase the resonance frequency of the frame to 3/2 x motor Hz (quick calc gives the frame rpm resonance to be around 20 000 rpm from your peak), so I suppose the motors go about 2/3 of that at around 13 000 rpm? There is also a peak at around 180 Hz -> 10800 rpm, is that the rotational speed and the two arms really successfully transfer the force? Or is it from the fact that thy are at an angle with different length. One at pi/4 to the other, so if the resonance frequency is proportional to the length of the arm than pi/4 = .7 = 13 000/10 000 might give the other peak? This "hangup" in frequency shift told me you either have no clue or are way beyond (leaning towards the latter here!). Would be nice to see some testing in regards to how much this improves response and also how you can improve stiffness/tune the freq in "better" ways in order to make it lighter. ex weakening it to be 2/3 of the motor rpm instead of over? Or maybe tubes instead of plates? I do not know, but felt there is some missing information in order to back up the fact that you have increased the resonance frequency of the frame without commenting on it... cool video, great work on the frame! Made me want to try it. Btw: I strongly agree with your motor/battery/prop choice (same as mine ;) for cruise the Gemfan ones are a tad more efficient at lower rpm).
It sounds like you've grasped most of the concepts in the video very well. Overall the AOS 7 delivers better vibration performance than an average 5" drone. All else equal a bigger drone will have worse vibration but with clever design you can improve the stiffness of the geometry to offset this. That's what this design demonstrates. Resonant frequency is determined by a number of factors: The length of the arm, the stiffness of the arm which depends non-linearly on its thickness and geometry, and the weight of the motor. Bigger frames have longer arms AND heavier motors so that makes it doubly difficult to keep the resonant frequnecies high enough that you can filter them out.
@@ChrisRosser I see. Thanks, I really enjoy your videos (been cycling through a bunch since I saw this one). Have learned a lot. Needless to say, this ticked a few of my boxes. Currently designing my own frame for an "invisible" Gopro MAX-drone. It just got a "second set of critical eyes" to say the least. Nice to tether courses from uni (none)linear systems, signal processing and controller design into each other. Your chat with Brian White and the Cine80-videos were NICE. Do you have any thoughts about using hollow tubes instead? I suppose the motor and frame mounts would be a challenge, but tubes have some benefits torsional and bending? (really liked the vertical motor-mounts for cine80. Keep it up!
I'm currently planning a 6" to change a bit from the 5ers (Apex 6 HD), but this might take the spot... Would the XING2 2506 1350kv be adequate for 7" (much cheaper and easier to find than the one you mention) ? Also, small tidbit : your noise gate feels a bit aggressive to me and cuts the noise too fast after you stop talking. You may want to tweak the attack/release parameters, or consider using a band-stop/notch filter instead if you need to remove background noise (AC unit, etc).
I've got some 2506 1350kv on a super light aureo 7" 6s, it works for long-range cruising with a lightweight 7" or biblade if ya wanna fly a bit more aggressively .. 2806.5/2807 for good propwash performance/freestyle
Hi Chris, thanks for all the good content on your channel! I'm going to build a AOS 7 soon with almost identical setup to the one in the video. iFlight Succex 60A ESC, iFlight XING 2806.5, Air Unit, BN-220 GPS, Holybro KakuteH7 FC I'm going to use longer antennas for long range (will also run 868mhz ELRS and plan to mount the antenna vertically), so the build is not going to be as clean as the one in the video but still very good thanks to the frame design. I was wondering if you have any existing tune for BF 4.3.0 which I can start playing/tuning from it? Any diff file with pids and filter setup would be much appreciated 🙏
The background noise is so much better than the constant volume changing, making the video irritating to actually listen to. I don't think you do this anymore lol
PLEASE! I would buy that one instantaneously. In the best case its modifieable into this 7Inch Copter. Just with a few more nuts and bolts its a Cinelfiter. I would love to see the advantages and disadvantages between 8 and 4 Motors in terms of vibrations.
Mate you still don’t have your LR 5 in the U.K. - I asked you about it and the fact your Italian supplier doesn’t stock it yet ( it still doesn’t ) your answer was to check out Iflight - a MONTH minimum to get to the U.K.! Sorry mate but I can’t help feeling completely MUGGED off! You are based in the U.K. brother yet those of us who live here can’t get your frames! I currently feel like you just couldn’t give a flying! 😢
I actually mention it every time I launch a frame (you can check the old videos!) I think it's really important that frames are easy to build and easy to maintain and use standard length standoffs and hardware.
Always impressive stuff to watch Chris, great analysis! What I’m wondering though, is this one good for long range, or is it a 7” freestyle frame? I’m looking in to building a 7” long range quad. I like the design for the Rekon7 if it weren’t for vibrations of a 7”. This one looks rather chunky for long range. How would this one stack up to the falcon or the Rekon from your point of view? Also, do you know of any (4S?) long range builds for this one or the falcon and the flight time they managed to get out of it?
It can do long range, medium range or freestyle. Really a jack of all trades. The Falcon 7 is specifically for long range so if that's all you want to do then that may be the choice for you. If you want smooth video with no vibrations the AOS 7 is the frame for you. For 7" you need 6S to keep the motor current sensible otherwise each motor will be drawing 100A+ and that's not feasible.
Just looking at it screams stabilizers Drag. Loose the cross stabilizers and balance the props & motors properly to rid the vibration. Workout what rpm then causes the most vibration afterwards and program out that rpm with frequency cancellation or add counter balance flywheels to each motor. If that fails swap out the frame for a glider.
Quadcopters aren't very aerodynamic at the best of times. The goal is smooth footage from the gopro during extreme acrobatic manoeuvres so resonance performance takes absolute priority for this application.
I like to wait a couple of weeks before shipping to distributors. Sometimes there is some feedback and I make some very minor tweaks to handle certain edge cases.
