The Basics of Hand Dyed Yarn - How To Dye Solid Colours Part 1 

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Thank you so much for watching and greetings from cold Canada😊

My pleasure, I'm glad you find the series informative. Thank you for the compliment and for watching.

You are so welcome. Thank you for watching and happy dyeing!

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Wonderful. I'm glad it was helpful. Enjoy your yarn dyeing.

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Thank you for watching. Hopefully this video with help with your dyeing adventures.

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Thank you. You can check out The Basics of Hand Dyed Yarn playlist for more tutorials.

I'm so glad this was helpful. Have fun on your yarn dyeing journey.

That's great! I'm glad this was helpful. Have fun on your dye journey.

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I'm so glad you found this helpful. Have fun experimenting.

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That's wonderful to hear. I'm glad my videos are helpful and have fun dyeing.

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I would actually enjoy doing that😄.

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I'm so happy my videos are helpful and enjoy your dye adventures!

Thank you so much! Hand dyed yarn should in my opinion look like it was done by hand, after all that is what makes it special.

I hope your husband is now doing well. I'm so happy that my video provided some calm for you in what I'm sure was a very stressful time. Thank you for sharing that with me🤗

@@EssenceofAutumnYarn thank you he is doing much better now. slow but steady

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I have the same issue with some blues :(

I'm so happy you're enjoying the videos. Yes highly pigmented dyes such as some blues, turquoise and reds can be a challenge to fully exhaust. Some times not every last bit of dye will be absorbed. Depending on the dye and the amount used there may be a tint to the water and it's not totally clear. As long as the dye has set well into the yarn I wouldn't worry about that. You can help things along by adding more acid and make sure that there is enough heat. Also check your ratio of dye, the yarn can only absorb so much. Give the yarn enough time to heat set. When the dye has exhausted I keep the yarn heating for several hours to ensure the dye stays in the fibres. If the dye has been properly set usually there should be no worries of bleeding. Keep in mind bleeding and excess dye are different things. Bleeding is when the yarn has not been set properly and the dye is coming out of the fibres. However if the yarn colour is very saturated but properly heat set some excess dye may be present and it will show up when the yarn is washed. This isn't dye coming out of the fibres it's just residue that couldn't be absorbed. If the initial washing of the yarn doesn't take care of that it will eventually go away with a few more washes. Hopefully this was helpful.

Greetings from Canada to Japan😊. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. Thank you so much for subscribing.

I hope you give it a try and if you do let me know how it turned out.

I have a playlist called the Basics of Hand Dyed Yarn. I cover most things there. I've linked the video about equipment below.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Nov6DVnZI6I.htmlsi=8WlShbL-f4-XeHsR

Glad you enjoyed it.

There's so many methods to dyeing yarn and it's enjoyable discovering new ways and techniques. For me it's practical to start with hot water but my way is definitely not the only way.

A cold water, no acid start is how I dye solid colours

Heat is vital when working with acid dyes. The combination of heat and acid is what will get the dyes to adhere to the fibres and the dyes dissolve better if hot water. I always make sure both the fibre and water is hot before applying any dye.

@@EssenceofAutumnYarn do you maintain the heat while dying? I could not tell if there was a heat source under the pans as you added the dye and then the acid? Also, do you heat to a specific temperature ?

Your welcome. Glad it was helpful.

That sounds like wonderful fibre to work with. I'm sure you will enjoy experimenting and dyeing.

Thank you. I plan to do so soon. If you wish sign up for my newsletter to be notified when new yarn has beed added to the website. www.essenceofautumnyarn.com/subscribe

@@EssenceofAutumnYarn Thank you Sheryl!! I sure did!! Glad I found your channel! You have so much to offer!

Yes 250ml

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As long as the percentage of protein fibre such as wool is high enough then the methods I show using acid dyes can be used. If the percentage of plant fibre such as cotton is higher, then a different type of dye and process is required. I don't dye plant based fibres so I don't have any experience with the dyes or techniques used for that.

It is 50 wood and 50 cotton - will that work to gel a solid colour?

Thank you. It's a proofing oven. It's used primarily for rising dough or keeping food warm. You can find these at restaurant suppliers.

You can try over dyeing them again to even out the colour.

You will need to experiment because there are so many factors that will determine the final result. If you want to dye a solid colour try using a small amount first (ex. 1/2 cup - 1 c) and see what happens. You can always use more. Remember the concentration and amount of dye used, as well as the strength of the acid and when you add it are also factors to consider. Experimenting is the only way to figure out exactly what will work for you.

You're welcome and I glad you're enjoying the information and I look forward to sharing some more techniques. Someone else asked a similar question to yours so I've pasted the answer I gave them below. The shade would probably be the same. However when using large amounts of dye like I did for the red I personally don't like to dump it all in at once. I find it's better to pour in half, make sure there is even coverage then apply the rest. That is the reason why I applied the 2 shades separately. This is my preference but my way is not the only way.

Yes the amount of water matters. I don't measure out the water but when dyeing solids I want there to be enough water so that the dye can flow freely around the yarn for a more even coverage. I add enough water so that the yarn is fully submerged. With less water the dye tends to settle on the surface of the yarn quickly and depending on the result you want this may be ideal. The water level combined with the amount of acid can be varied to get different effects. I do a lot of experimenting to find what works for the result I'm going for.

Noted!

I wouldn't suggest using the same oven you cook your food in since chemicals and particles from the dye can settle on the interior of the oven and later end up in your food. I suggest using your stove top or hotplate burner instead. If you must use your oven then make sure to keep the pan covered so that dye particles don't settle in your oven and you probably know this but anything you use for dyeing such as pans utensils should be kept separate and not used for cooking. Set the oven as low as it can go to avoid damaging the yarn. For best results follow the dye manufacturers instructions for temp and amount of time.

dharma

What ever you use for heat setting your yarn should only be used for that. I use a proofing oven (used in bakeries for rising dough), the highest heat setting on it is 200 and that is what I set it at. I heat set for a minimum of 2 hrs but usually longer. I can do that because there is no direct heat in my type of oven so I don't have to worry about heat damage to the fibres.

Nella.

This video may answer your questions. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uG573S3TjJU.html

Start with a very diluted concentration of the colour you wish. You can always layer more dye to build the colour up if you wish but if you start out to heavy handed you can't change that if the result is to dark.

I always pre heat my yarn (I like to to see steam coming off of it) before any dye is added.

If you can work comfortably with 6 at once and the pan is big enough then it would be better to dye it all together.

@@EssenceofAutumnYarn thank you! 😊

A few things can cause colour bleeding but one main culprit is not allowing enough time for the dye to heat set, the dye manufacturer will give recommendations on this. Also depending on the fibre content all yarn has a limit to the amount of dye it can absorb and really over saturated yarn may bleed to get rid of the excess even it heat set properly. Also dyes that are highly pigmented will often bleed such as deep blues and reds. These dyes will sometimes not exhaust completely and will leave a slight tint to the dye bath. Lastly always hand wash hand dyed yarn in cold water (warm or hot water can cause the dye to run even with proper heat setting) and make sure the yarn is fully cooled as well before washing so as not to shock the fibres and risk felting. It may or may not help but it won't hurt to try heating setting already dyed yarn again with some more acid and see what happens.

I have a pretty loose approach to dyeing and that's just my style. I don't ever measure the water. I can eyeball the level of water and adjust it to achieve the look I'm going for. The amount of dye is more important to me so I will measure that.

It definitely sounds like a challenge. I don't have enough information to give an opinion or advise about this.

The yarn probably will not absorb all the dye until the acid added.

@@EssenceofAutumnYarn I thought to add the acid only the next day because I want the color to be absorbed evenly. Thanks anyway for your advice!

I use a proofing oven as a heat source so the yarn and water are preheated in there before I apply the dye. I take the pans out of the oven, apply the dye and then put it back in. So no there is no heat source under the pan while I'm doing the application but the yarn and water is hot.

Yes I do prefer layering colours separately even if similar in shade. It produces subtle variations in the colour that show up when knitting which makes for a more interesting result. This of course is just my personal taste. Experiment and see what works for you.

I find that hand dyed yarn even if dyed a solid deep colour will still have subtle variations that really come to life when used in a project.

The shade would probably be the same. However when using large amounts of dye like I did for the red I personally don't like to dump it all in at once. I find it's better to pour in half, make sure there is even coverage then apply the rest. That is the reason why I applied the 2 shades separately. This is my preference but my way is not the only way.

@@EssenceofAutumnYarn Thanks, very interesting

I wish you success.

Hi there. RIT Dyes are different from acid dyes and I have never used them. It would be best to follow the manufacturer directions. I have a steam oven that heats up the yarn before I start dyeing. I take the yarn out, apply the dye then return it to the oven.

The method for dyeing it solid would be the same as shown in the video. Just keep in mind that unless dyeing it a solid black the original colour will probably still show through a bit so depending on the shade of green use colours like blue, yellow or darker greens. You could also just add speckles (watch my speckle tutorial) over the original to jazz it up.