This is great. A no nonsense design and doesn't cost $1k. This is also making one less electrical item for those that could spend the money somewhere else in the build. Thanks for the vid
Great Idea! Instead of that large handle, you could weld a large nut on the end of the threaded rod and use a socket with a 1/2" breaker bar or a Ratchet.
@@BCBackwaters I'm about to start converting a ram promaster and I've been trying to figure out a pully system for a bed lift because electrical ones are like 5000 pre-made and 1500 if I make it my self. This is so smart I don't know why I was unable to think of it.
@@InsectObserver It’s way cheaper to make your own and even mine I could improve more by putting it in a track but honestly it works so good compared to my first build. If you have any questions feel free to reach out!
Hey from the U.K. across the pond! Just subscribed dude. Awesome vlogs on the raising bed. I'm doing another van for myself and was looking for something just like this. It really is perfect for my needs so thankyou my friend. I'll let you know how it goes😅. Be safe.🤙
I love it! I have been doing some research on similar ideas one was basically this but w a motor… great job Bro!!! I wish I could do so good w my videos. 😂 Have a Blessed day!!!
I was all set to use a roll tarp motor in my build. I think you have convinced me to ditch that and go with a manual crank. No need to try and hide the heavy gauge wires that would be required.
Very cool thanks once again! I’m going to try to come up with an idea to use some sort of power to crank that up snd at the opposite en in a van in my case! Open to any ideas from you or anyone else, please. 🙏🏿 🇨🇦
I like it! I have watched both of your videos in preparation of my own build. I liked the simplicity of both of them. With your cabinets are they prefabricated? Also what size is your trailer?
I do have a video on my cabinets! I pre assembled most of it outside of the trailer then finished assembling once it was in place. Trailer is a 7x16. Thanks for watching!
Good question, the bed frame has a bit of flex to it so if I ran the bar through the middle it would probably rub on the 2x4’s. If I could put the rod on 4 bearings through my all my 2x4’s it would probably work. Just did this way because it was easier and allowed for more flexibility. Hope this helps!
You could have just left your ¾ in pipe 2 or 3 in longer then used 1-1in nipple 3in long 2-1in 90's 1-12in nipple 1-6in nipple and 1-1in cap for the handle slide the 3in nipple over the ¾in pipe drill a hole through both and stick a cotter key or a pin with the ball bearing spring lock so you can take the handle off and put back on easily screw a 90 on the 3 in nipple screw the 12in nipple in that 90 screw the other 90 on the opposite end of the 12in nipple pointing away from the other 90 screw the 6in nipple in that 90 and screw the cap on the other end of the 6in nipple vwala removable crank handle just be sure to loktite the 90's or put a spot weld on them so they won't come apart And it's also a handle that won't poke your eye out also you can take it off so you can still close your back door or ramp or roll up door whatever you have but I saw that your handle stuck out to far for your door or ramp to close
