I flattened and levelled my entire bench top with a Dewalt 604 trim router and 1/4 shank one inch dia bit, sliding on one inch x3mm angle aluminium rails and 18mm ply bench side rails set on 1/4” standoff from the bench sides. Taking three passes of 1mm depth. Easy.
If this works for you, great. I just much prefer a set up that will let me flatten much faster. Sometimes the slabs we use will need 1/2" to 3/4" (or more) of material taken off. With my set up I can take at least 1/8" at a time maybe more. 1mm at a time would take lots of passes and to me the $'s are well worth spending to save me that much time. Thank you for the feedback ❤
Except…see my comment above. Using 1/4” shank is perfectly possible if you get your guide rails right down to the surface AND use the correct diameter bit for the smaller palm router power. Then just be patient and let the tool do its work without undue force. Removing almost 1/16” from a 6x4 feet work piece takes about fifteen minutes. Take as many passes as it needs. If you got plenty of money for monster routers and huge costly bits, fair enough, enjoy the spend, but you certainly can use a smaller set up even fir a big slab.
Sounds like you found a process that works for you, congrats. I just much prefer using a full size router and bit. I like the stability and enough power to be able to take much more than 1mm at at time. To me the most costly thing we have is time. If I can spend a few extra $'s to save my self lots of time it's worth it. To each his own, thank you for watching and the feedback.
@@oldave100 Plus a full sized router isn't that much more expensive than a palm router much of the time. The bit may be a different story, but good bits are expensive regardless .
Looks like the new mod on the sled is a huge upgrade, and the bit really cuts through the wood, I have no use for one now but the future I might be using one, thanks for this.
Ooooooo Thanks ! Comment / option to the table. What if you cut some slots in the perimeter area in the base of the sled to accept positioning blocks (maybe in varying lengths to adapt to the slab width ) to lock in the slab position for surfacing? (Much like your adjustable height addition ). Alternately, you could only drill holes in the sled base and use slotted positioning blocks with bolt / wing nut fasteners. With slotted positioning blocks, they can be positioned at any angle around the sled base holes to adept to the slab profile. This would save on your glue and tape expenses, time positioning .... and .... reusable .. :) Plus, if the slab would require a special secure point, all you would need to do is drill another hole to suit. Positioning blocks can also be in varying widths / thickness to accommodate the slab thickness.
It was a beast on the first slab that’s great but how’s it holding up? I bought a surfacing bit from Amazon that was great on the first couple slabs but 5-6 slabs in it’s burning and tearing out. I cleaned it and it didn’t help.
