CLARIFICATION. My apologies; I misspoke on one point made in the video when I said that the smaller blade would deliver more torque. In reality, torque is a constant in this scenario, as it is a measurement of rotational power delivered from the center of the arbor. Torque = force multiplied by distance. So, with constant torque the smaller blade delivers greater cutting force because of the shorter distance. The power advantage that I was explaining is accurate, but I should have referred to greater cutting force rather than greater torque.
Yes it does. It makes it safer and quieter to cut with the smaller blade. It also in theory would slow down the rate at which you can feed stock although the other variables that come into play that determine feed rate would include HP of the saw, kerf size, tooth count, etc.
Only issue is that the smaller blade might not have enough height to work with the bunch of custom jigs that every woodworker have. For non-jig usage though, this absolutely makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the info.
I did this as you recommended, I can't believe that I never thought of this 30 years ago. It works just as well as you said. I hardly ever work with anything but 3/4 material. Thanks!
Paul, thanks again. I had to go down to HD anyway for a couple of Bessey clamps I had ordered. I picked up a 7-1/4” 40 tooth as well as a 60 tooth Diablo. I popped the 40 tooth in my tablesaw. Then I made some cuts on three-quarter inch Baltic Birch as well as three-quarter inch MDF. I also made cuts on 1“ nominal Maple as well as Red Oak. Like butter! And the cuts are very clean. I did rip cuts in the hardwoods. I haven’t tried out the 60 tooth yet on my plywood but I’m sure it will be even a little smoother. Although I now have some overhead dust collection on my tablesaw, MDF is still dirty stuff. I’ve been using a thin kerf 80 tooth Freud blade (.093” is better than .125” for sawdust) but the .062” kerf of the 7-1/4” Diablo is better still! I always thought of Diablo as the “lower tier line“ of Freud. But I have to tell you there is nothing lower tier about these blades. Great recommendation!
How on earth did I miss this post for over a year plus? First of all, your analysis of the 7.25" blade on a full size saw is complete and well thought out. The logic is sound and like you stated, unless you are going to cut thick material, your downside using the small diameter blade is greatly outweighed by the benefits. Excellent video and subject matter ... my eyes are now wide open to the possibilities. Thanks for sharing your findings ... I for one feel fortunate because of your efforts. Cheers Mate!!
After seeing this I installed a $14. DEWALT DWA181424 8-1/4-Inch 24-Tooth Circular Saw Blade on my table saw just to reduce the dust. It really works!!!! and will cut 2-3/8"
What a coincidence! About 3 years ago I put the 6½" blade from my cordless saw on my Grizzly cabinet saw. Being a mechanical engineer I came to the same conclusions as you did as to up/down side. I use the smaller blade exclusively for cutting ply wood or melamine. Silky smooth. There is one additional upside: It's a LOT easier to make the initial cut on a zero clearance insert. In fact, I have made a second cut in all my other zero clearance inserts so I just flip the insert 180° between 10 and 6½" diameters. Thanks.
Hi Wilhelm, great minds think alike! And, I love the idea of the double duty zero clearance insert. I’m gonna do that for sure! Thanks, sir. Cheers, Paul
I have heard this several times now and will definitely use it with my new saw. Thanks for the info breakdown, have not heard some of the info you provided. I work primarily with reclaimed wood and this will definitely help should I miss any foreign objects. Thanks again 👍
I have been using that exact blade on my saw for many years and it makes the best cuts of all the blades I have tried. I also have a 81/4 and a 10 in blade in case I need a deeper cut. But nothing cuts as smooth as the 71/4 40 tooth red blade.
I agree. I've been running 7-1/4" x 1/16" inch blades for years. Not very often do I need a bigger blade but, when I do I just swap it out for a 10" then swap it back.
Great video! I had an “aha moment”. I switched to a thin kerf plywood blade on my saw stop and I could not figure out why I felt binding. It’s the riving knife! Thank you for a great video.
As a DIYer I thought about this but always though there must be a good reason why professionals don't use a 7.25" blade even for these smaller cuts. Thank you for the tip, I will definitely give this a try.
Thanks for your comment, Jon. Definitely. If you would have to swap for each cut then this is definitely not a good approach for you, whether you are a hobbyist or a professional. It’s not for everyone but many professionals do use this approach. It really depends on what material you normally work with. If this worked for everyone in all situations then 10” blades wouldn’t exist. 😀
This is a GREAT idea for most of the work I do!!!!!! Why has nobody ever mentioned this??????? On my way to the store tomorrow!!!! Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I agree with all that you have said. I’ve been doing this for many years and have been happy. The cost isn’t much of a factor when you take your used saw blade in to be sharpened. there’s not much cost difference. I would like to add one thing. With the torque of the smaller blade, you don’t have to push as hard minimizing slipping and binding.
I've been using a 7 1/4 blade for about 6 months now and love it. Great results and I do feel safer using it. I'm looking into getting the shark guard for my older Grizzly 3HP table saw. Thanks for the video!
I'm in the infant stages of wood working. I'm learning how things work. Seeing your video I hadn't even thought about blades most of my work is small pinterest things for the wife. I can't wait to try this. I for sure see the uneven cuts on small rips. Thought it was just me.Thanks
I had been using blades by Irwin, Dewalt, Kobalt, etc. Then about 5 years ago I started hearing how great the Freud Diablo blades are so, I bought the 10" general purpose blade for my table saw. Boy, what a difference!! I love it so much I went and bought more blades for the miter saw and my two circular saws. I'm pretty frugal and went and spent the $40 for that ten-inch blade, but now hearing you say you are using the 7-1/4" on your ten-inch table saw is great! I'm going to order two more of the thin kerfs, one for ripping and one for cross-cutting. That will only be about $27 as opposed to $80-$100.00 for the 10" versions. Thank you for sharing this with us!
Thanks for the feedback, Don. Should work great on that saw. I tried smaller blades on a Dewalt jobsite saw and it improved the performance and cut quality.
Really helpful for me. I'm an artist and cut a lot of 1/8" and 1/4" tempered Masonite. I used to run a 6" blade on my 7 1/4" circular saw. The only reason, was my small town hardware store was out of 7 1/4" blades. It worked really well. I'll def be putting a 7 1/4" blade on my 10" stationary table saw. Surprised I didn't think of this. Thanks!
The 7 1/4" blades work well. I think it was a great idea to have Shark Guard make you an appropriate splitter to use with them. While it makes sense that the small inexpensive blade is a good solution for you, I suspect your saw may have more runout than it should, causing problems with the WWII. If the bearings are good, it might be worth checking (and correcting) the arbor flange.
Point well taken. Makes sense to me. You did a great job of laying out your argument. I have two saws on my work flow and I am going to change one of the blades to a 7 .25 blade and diablo is one product
I bought a Mikita track saw last year and was blown away with the quality of the cut it produced using a tiny 6.5” blade. Eventually I grabbed a fine finish diablo in 6.5” from HD and put it on my table saw just to see if it would do the same. I was blown away with the improvement across the board. I now only use a 10” blade when I need the rip capacity. An additional safety advantage that I have found is that the length of blade exposed above the table is shorter with a smaller diameter blade which reduces the injury potential when doing small “danger close” cuts where the blade guard might not be accommodated. I have found that the thinner blade is more susceptible to wandering during a cut so it is important to have the saw tuned extremely well and use guides or feather boards whenever possible.
Totally agree with you. I have not tried the Freud smaller blades, but I use the Irwin Marathons. They work great and are reasonably priced. Not for everything, but for rip cuts these 7 1/4" blades are tops.
I did this on my 8.5 inch Milwaukee contractors saw. Number one it is battery powered and I find the battery lasting somewhat longer, and two whwn I shut the saw off it stops immediately. It stopped quickley before, but almost instantly now. Thanks. Using 7.25 blade now.
Wow, that's great feedback. Hadn't thought of the battery benefit, but makes sense that it would made a significant difference, as well as the faster blade stopping. Thanks for sharing. Cheers, Paul
I just bought my first table saw and had no idea I could use a 7 1/4 blade on a 10' saw. I actually already have that 7 1/4 diablo on my miter and I think I paid 12 or 13$ on Amazon. I'm glad I came across this video definitely going to try the blade. Thanks for the info.
@@ToolMetrix Well it wasn't a good first try but that's my own fault. Like a dummy I put the 7 1/4 in not thinking about the cuts I needed to make. I was more concerned about the noise and sawdust because I live in a condo with a connected 4 car garage and my 1 neighbor hates me, she's a drunk and a miserable old lady I've never seen her smile I don't even know if she has teeth. So she complains to the association every week. Like I said I was thinking about her and not the cut. I was cutting some dados and the smaller blade was taking forever so after the second I put the 10 back on and haven't used it since. Tomorrow I'm gonna try it again. No I don't have a Dado blade. I've already spent a ridiculous amount of money this year tooling up. The end of last year all my tools got stolen out of my car, basically my whole lifes collection. I started fresh, which sucked money wise but was awesome tool wise lol. I love new tools. I'm working on a bench with my table saw, miter shop vac dust collection and everything else built in but it's tough because space is very limited. I made a soundproof box for the shop vac and table saw. Obviously it's not fully soundproof but I hope it works I'll find out tomorrow. It would be impressive if I could soundproof the saw and still make cuts. I'd be the next billionaire. Sorry went way off topic. I'll keep you posted, hope to see some new videos. Oh question is there a way to power a table saw on and off using a power strip? I want the vac and saw to go on at the same time. I know they have power supplies that do that but I'm trying not to spend any more money. I can turn the vac on but I have to still turn the saw on from it's power switch. I have a push button power supply but I don't know how to get the saw hooked up to it. It's actually for your foot step on the button for power.
This is an interesting video. I hope lots of people see it. I've used circ saw blades on the table saw for years, but almost exclusively when I needed the ultra-thin kerf. I observed that the cut quality was better than I initially expected, but I never thought to compare it to my dedicated rip blades. It doesn't surprise me that it's better than the WWII. I never thought much of the ripping performance of that balde. It's fine, and I rip with mine all the time, but if I need a really clean rip, I swap it for a 24T raker blade. However, your explanation of why the rip quality is so good is really insightful and makes a lot of sense. I'm skeptical of your kick-back advantage, though. Tooth speed doesn't determine the speed that the object is kicked back. It does establish the upper limit, but the actual speed of a kicked back board is going to be much lower than the tooth speed. The energy transferred to the board will be equal to the force applied multiplied by the time the tooth is in contact with the board. The speed of the board will be the square root of the energy divided by the mass of the board. The mass of the board is fixed. The time the tooth is in contact will be mostly determined by the conditions of the kick-back. (Notice that a large board jammed between the blade and the fence will often kick back with a lot of speed, while little cut-offs bounce off the back edge of the blade with much less speed. That's because the contact time is so short for the cut-offs because they're so easily moved out of the way of the blade.) If anything, I think the slower tooth speed might result in a board remaining in contact with the blade slightly longer, but my hunch is it hardly makes any difference. So if we assume the mass is fixed, and the contact time is based on conditions rather than blade geometry, then the speed will increase in proportion to the square root of the force. As you pointed out in your comment, the force applied at the tooth of the smaller blade is greater, so the kick-back may be worse. I say may be, because even that is an oversimplification. For example, when that sudden contact is made it's going to tend to slow the blade down. A thick 10" blade is going to have more angular momentum than a thin 7" blade, but how much difference that makes will depend on your saw. On a cheap, job-site saw with a 15A universal motor, the arbor and motor armature won't contribute as much to the angular momentum of the system as it will on a cabinet saw with a 3HP induction motor. I can think of several other factors likely to contribute as well, although to a lesser extent. I don't know if one blade size is safer than the other, but I know it's too complicated to trust our intuition. That may sound a knit-picky, but you're clearly a smart guy who put a lot of thought into this. I thought you might appreciate another way of looking at it.
I started using dewalt 40 tooth on my dewalt contractor saw it ripped 2x4 I found it way easier on the motor.cut was awesome. Had very little chipping on melamine.
I never thought about trying this. I switched from a 1960s Unisaw to a jobsite saw and I will definitely try this for cutting plywood. My only concern is that the riving knife will not be as effective.
I've been using Vermont American (7.25" & 10") Laser X2 blades on my tablesaw & circular saws for over 20 years. They have "V" shaped cutting tips so they are self scoring on both sides of the kerf. These are full kerf blades btw. I also do use blade stabilizers on my tablesaw with the 10" blades. I will give the thin kerf Diablo blade a try for comparison. I think the prices will be pretty much the same. Good data/video.
Thanks, Mike. The V shape sounds interesting, and I can see some advantages to full kerf in some woods that would put more pressure on the blade to flex. Cheers, Paul
Wish I had switched to a smaller blade on my table saw earlier. What a difference! It changed my table saw from heavy metal to smooth jazz, plus all other benefits. You can only enjoy it after making the switch. Couldn't be more happier. Thanks.
I was Googling for a new tablesaw blade when I came across your video and am very glad I did. I live in Thailand where everything is in lockdown just now because of covid and the choice is pretty dismal online for 10 or 12 inch blades. Now I shall go for a 7 inch choice which seem to be much more plentiful. Thanks for the great info.
@@ToolMetrix Hi Paul. Well I ended up with an 8" blade as the 7" would not fit my arbor. You were spot on with all your comments and it cuts beautifully clean and does thin cuts great. One big problem, which you covered, is the splitter, which causes the wood to bind when I get 3 or 4 inches past the end of the blade. Not sure what I will do about that yet as I don't have your resources or contacts but I will hopefully come up with something. Any ideas you may have would be most welcome. Thanks.
You can easily make one out of a piece of aluminum. Just cut in on a bandsaw or maybe even a scroll saw. Or go with a shark guard like I did. Very awesome.
@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the suggestions. I'm sure I can find something to do the job. Just finished a rocking chair project so having a couple of days off but will come up with something when I get back in there.
I make buttons so every single cut is thin, either 1/8 thick strips or 1/4 inch thick strips and its often rare exotics like rosewood, ebony, kingwood etc so the savings in wood alone will be worth the switch. I hope the edges are as smooth as described because that will represent a lot less time at the sander.
I learned this from a man named Bob Chase on RU-vid a couple years ago. A cabinet maker/craftsman. His channel is called The Master Woodworker. He’s doesn’t make many videos anymore unfortunately but He’s a great man, an old timer, that many people would appreciate to learn from. There are a few videos on his channel that explain specifically why he gave up the 10in blade 2-3 decades ago. I know that he didn’t invent the idea, but I believe it has mostly been his influence which has caught on to other youtubers over the years and I’ve seen others who now do the same... Although, he never used a riving knife, which is why I never felt totally comfortable adopting the change in my own shop. I prefer to use a riving knife so your video today has great value to me regarding the company who made your custom knife. I will be looking into whether they can make one for my saw, as I know I will enjoy using a smaller blade for a majority of my basic cuts. It makes sense in so many ways. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback and for the tip on Bob Chase. I'll check out his channel. I've never seen a RU-vidr do this before, but I learned about it from a guitar builder.
ToolMetrix That’s awesome to hear. A luthier would probably really benefit from thIs method... I think you’d like the gentleman a lot as he went on many trips over many years, traveling the world doing missionary work, building things for different communities in need. A craftsman from a generation which we don’t have many left from anymore... One of the videos is titled Taming the Tablesaw.
I’m thinking of getting a small sheet of 1/16” aluminum from HD. My Laguna Fusion F2 tablesaw has a standard riving knife and I added a thin kerf riving knife. They are the same shape, so I am going to trace one of them onto the aluminum sheet. Then I will use double sided tape to fix the sheet to a small piece of 3/4” Baltic birch. For my riving knife, I’ll use a piece of plywood that’s about 6“ x 7“. I plan to use a 1/4“ blade on my bandsaw and cut the aluminum/Baltic Birch sandwich to rough shape, staying just outside the layout line. Then I’ll take my laminate trimmer with a small trim bit to take the riving knife down to its final size. The trim bit should have no problem with the aluminum but since I have a bunch of bits, I’ll probably use an older one anyway. There’s a couple of holes and a couple of slots on my riving knife. I will use a combination of the drill press, bandsaw and possibly my jigsaw to finish these out. Finally, to smooth everything out, I will use a hand file followed up by my spindle sander. I hope to get this made quickly because like a couple of you all, I prefer to have a riving knife with every blade. Just in passing, I also use a Microjig Grr-ripper and love it. I think I was one of the first people in the country to buy the Grr-ripper way back when at a woodworking show. I hope to get this riving knife made soon and will report back here when done.
Very Interesting, never thought to try this, but I will now. Combine this idea/philosophy with running a proper blade type (ripping, crosscutting, laminate etc) for cuts and 95% of my tablesaw activity could be done with more efficiency and result in cleaner cuts at a substantially lower price then my ridge carbide and diablo favorite blades. Only catch I can come up with is the cutting depth may not be sufficient for some sled or jigs use (?) new riving knife needed in most cases ... time to test .. excellent idea, thanks.
Excellent points I guess the only downside is that you cannot use arriving knife since it'll be too thick and you would have to replace the blades a lot sooner since there's less teeth but again they're cheaper so that's that.
Thanks, Martin. Great point about the riving knife. The one that was made for me by Shark Guard works great. Perfect solution. They can make one for just about any saw.
I use the Freud glue line rip blade and it works very well but this is less than sharpening so I am going to give it a go. The added performance and yield is very appealing also - thanks for the heads up!
Thanks for the video. I have gone to 7 1/4 blades and using a vibration dampener, with a 16th thickness, and have experienced exactly what you said. I agree.
Great video! Some useful math for you: SFPM (Surface Feet Per Minute) x 3.82/ Diameter = RPM RPM x .262 x Diameter = SFPM As you can see, there's a huge difference in surface speed between the 7.25" and 10" blade.
Consider trying the DeWalt 7-1/4" 60T Ultra Fine Finish Blade (DW7116PT). For me, it provides very clean crosscuts and rips in plywood (with good face up on table saw), and it glides through hardwoods with only a .063" kerf . . . very little cut resistance. I gave it a try a few years back and it's still on the saw.
Great helpful info.Do you have a address for Shop Guard? Also I appreciate that you don’t have loud music during your video. And you speak clearly and with good volume. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. PBW
I was just about to replace my 10 inch on my shop saw and stumbled upon your video. Everything you explained makes perfect sense. I'm going to buy that Diablo blade and try it this week.Thanks for taking the time to make your videos!
For what it is worth, using the smaller blade should also increase the ability of your dust collection efforts as the smaller blade produces less velocity (fpm) of fan effect by a magnitude of about one quarter in the case of going from 10" to 7 1/4". So, a slower moving stream of discharge air/debris, will be easier to catch than the same stream were it moving almost 25% faster, as is the case when using a 10" blade.
I've often thought about the same thing but never took the time to try it. Glad to see that you have, I'll definitely give this a try on my unisaw. One thing to consider though is that the smaller blades don't have the same variety of tooth shapes but maybe that won't be as much of a factor as we think.
Hi Bruce, There are actually a pretty good variety of tooth configurations available on the 7-1/4" blades. I find that the one that I use provides a good combination of feed rate and cut quality. If I were mostly cutting sheet goods I would definitely use a blade with a higher tooth count. Cheers, Paul
This is really great insight for using a smaller blade. At the time of this writing I see you have 17 dislikes (thumbs down), are they crazy! The Debbie downers must be the manufactures of the 10 in blades. You are totally correct in what you say. Thank you/
There’s nothing controversial here. This has been well known and accepted by many luthiers and trim carpenters for years. I’m sorry that this difficult to accept.
@@ben68442 So I realize I may have offended some using the word "Crazy" and for that I sincerely apologize. The planform should be used to constructively exchange Ideas.
Sounds good to me. My Rockwell is a model 9 (9") contractor saw and it's difficult to find a 9" blade I want anyways. I figure if I need to rip anything thicker than that 1.25" I can always just rip the board and then flip it and rip it again. I may even go with the $11 24 tooth blade as I'm not worried about tearout for my use as I'm usually cutting boards to glue together to then turn on my lathe anyhow so all the tearout will disappear during the turning process.
I used to frame houses and have maybe twenty 7 1/4" blades left from that. Any time I am breaking down salvage lumber or any lumber than might be dirty or have nails, I use one of those blades. If I hit something I can afford to throw the blade away. The same would apply to the blade you mention, at less than $15 ruining one would not be a disaster. Also, everything else you say is true. Running a good smaller blade is hardly a compromise.
@@ToolMetrix I failed to mention, if the 7 1/4" diameter is what bothers you, they make very similar 8" blades. I have not check the exact specs, but they are similar. Costs only 1" on cut depth.
So I watch his video yesterday and thought I would try it today with some white oak. I had a Freud 7 1/4 60 tooth blade and tried it out. The results were terrible. I was ripping two and seven eights and the board meandering all over the place. I had 2 3/4 in some places. It was pulling the wood off the fence. It was ridiculous.
Get friendly with a local cabinet shop. Get a Dietz or Amana. To be honest, I ripped a straight edge on red alder with a Ryobi 10" blade and was still getting a decent cut after 5,500 linear feet.
I’m friendly with my local cabinet shop but they don’t give me saw blades. They have given me sawdust on a couple occasions for dust collection tests however.
Now you tell me! I switched over a while ago. Another plus is that when you shut the power off there is less free wheeling of the blade and it stops sooner which = SAFETY!
Nice video. I have bought and use the smaller blade for all work other than edge clean up. I noticed your ducting is pvc pipe. What size do you use and how do you overcome static electricity problems?
Thanks for watching. Yes, I use PVC. 6" main trunk, and I go 6" all the way to table saw, jointer and chop saw. I drop to 4" to other tools, as close as possible. I don't do anything about static. It hasn't been too bad. I've been using PVC for 20+ years.
Thanks for your nice info-clip and yes, I have a few of the Harbor Freight blades which I did purchase for being affordable and now I have learned about other advantages - take care!
@@ToolMetrix I was trying to find the exact same blade that you were using(Model: D0740A) but I could only find (Model: D0740R) locally. For me, these blade are around 30 dollars Canadian. I am wondering if there is any discernable difference. Btw, thank you for the video. Your explanation was fantastic.
I did this over the weekend to get more yield from my plywood shelf brackets. The tear out in plywood is pretty bad. It wasn’t a bid deal for this situation but I’d have to make a specific zero clearance plate if I do it for something important.
What kind of plywood were you using? On cabinet grade plywood I saw almost no tear out. On Baltic birch, slightly more but still tolerable. Were you using the same blade?
ToolMetrix Russian Birch. Yes exact same blade, brand new too. I still have the blade installed so maybe I’ll mess with it more and see if I was doing something wrong or if it was that particular sheet. It wasn’t high end but it was ok 9 ply
I tried this type of blade but I was not able to get it tight when installing. Any suggestions? I have an older jobsite Ryobi saw that uses an 8" blade (1/8" kerf). Add a washer to compensate for the smaller kerf?
Great video, I am wonder why not use the blade stiffiner with the smaller. It may reduce the cut depth even more but if that isnt a problem you could remove any wobble that may occur even with the smaller blade. Also perhaps overkill.
If you own an 18v medium power circular saw (cordless) like a Ridgid, you definitely want to use a thin kerf blade (like Diablo blades). I bought a Ridgid circ saw and I thought the blade they sent was dull or defected. Almost every single cut I made I was binding either a little or a lot (especially on the last inch of the board). I thought the blade was defective so I bought a new blade. The 2nd time I bought a Dewalt framing blade and the results were even worse. I even used my speed square as a guide to keep the blade straight and it still binded. I could not figure out why it was binding so bad then I ran across an article about using thin kerf blades on cordless circular saws because they dont have quite enough power to efficiently cut using a standard kerf blade. I tried this "theory" out and it was like night and day. I bought a Diablo framing and Diablo fine finish (both are thin kerf by default) and later a Mamba (Amana Tool) thin kerf fine framing. All 3 of those thin kerf blades worked wonders. All 3 of those blades are really good but most of all they allowed me to be able to use my cordless circ saw. They make a HUGGEEE difference if you have a cordless circ saw.
I think I will give this a shot. However if you do need a 10" blade the Freud Glue line rip blade is pretty darn good for half the price of the forrest.
Not to disagree but I've wood worked for 50 years and I have tried Diablo which are very good blades but I just moved to Forrest blades. Forrest blades aren't cheap but can be resharpened many more times than any other blades and cut like butter.
Were you using Diablo 7.25” blades? I’m not at all suggesting that Diablo is better than Forrest. My point is that the small thin profile of this blade has a lot of advantages compared to larger blades. Forrest blades are sweet, and if I need a 10” blade that’s my favorite one to grab. That said, it hasn’t been on my saw very much lately.
Would the smaller blade work better or just as good for making bevel cuts on thin stock under 1/2"? I want to make some small decorative boxes and I have been exploring buying an 80 tooth Amana or similar quality blade but the cost is holding me back.
I haven't tried that yet, although I have done some straight cross cutting and it worked fine. Keep your feed rate slow to avoid flexing the blade and it should work well. If you try it, please let me know. I will be installing some molding this weekend, and normally I would use my miter saw for this but I will try to remember to try it on my table saw with this blade and see how it goes.
Thanks for your Video, I like the Idia but I have a problem, I have a Delta Table and the Riving knife is .09 Inch thick the Blade that You are suggesting is .063 Inch Thick which means the CUT on the wood is thinner than the Riving Knife, You had the same problem? If yes how do you get around? not use the Riving knife??? , in my opinion not using the riving knife is a bad idea. Thanks for your video.
I use a 12 inch commonly available blades on my 14 inch Dewalt RAS, the price is less than one half and they cut with more power, as if 5 HP wasn't enough? Blade stiffeners are used with them too.
