Lol. I’ve owned over 40 F350’s over the past 30 years, but this time I went with the Ram 2500 Tradesman with 0% financing and a $550 a month payment. I love it so far. Agree with you about having problems with any brand of truck. Just gotta hope ya got one of the good ones. I bought my new Big Tex 16GN-40 with cash, and paid off all my other bills except an $800 a month mortgage. Stay safe. 👍✌️
Before a 5.9.... bro that 5.9 12value with a p pump is the motor to in a old truck..... The 5.9 24 value was at the beginning of the smog motors. The 6.7 is fine - in fact just about any Cummins is great. In the Rams it's the trans that sucks! The old 7.3 Ford ok, the 6.0 or 6.4 Ford's have issues - the new 6.7 has a small issue.... As a rental - I would go Ford - if I was to buy new and the only vehicle I would have to be may fun toy - RAM as my second and I would be putting a new Transmission under the ram from day one! If I wish to go Auto, can not beat the 6 speed Allison... Now if I was to build from the ground up - I would have the Cummins in a Ford
I believe you got some bad 5.9 info. The 5.9 Cummins is considered the million mile motor. There is actually a 5.9 Cummins million mile owners club. Due to the reliability of the 5.9, there are several conversion companies to swap a Cummins in to a Ford. No one is putting a Powerstroke in a Dodge.
5R110 Transmission in a dodge for sure tho. i daily a 6.0 Powerstroke, i'd be stupid to say it has NEVER been problematic but the trucks never let me down only small issues here and there every 30-40,000 miles or so. i do all my own maintence, i just love the fact that any and every and all repairs are very very well documented on the 6.0 Powerstroke, i like the cummins trucks, but the transmissions and Ride quallity especially unloaded of 1 ton dually Ford is far superior and beefier axels. i do all my own maintence and repairs, i honestly feel like the 6.0 Powerstroke is probably best in terms of Power output Transmission capability. only if you can do your own repairs and work. if the truck does ever go down for a larger issue, its no longer im waiting on the shop to get around to it to get the truck back up its i went to auto parts store got the part to replace it on my own time 2-3 hours of labour at most for any topend work. the 6.0 is the easiest of the bunch to work on in terms of 7.3 vs 6.0 vs 6.4 vs. 6.7 6.4s can be good but i wouldn't touch them i know a bunch of people with really really good luck with the 6.4, but i dont like anything common Rail injection all the issues that all the newer trucks have is from the common rail injection pumps and usally when they go they wipe out the entire injection system and fuel system and then its pretty much a motor rebuild. and the 7.3, can be a PITA to work on i replaced my buddys injector cups in a parking lot while it was raining. have to say theres a lot of while you're in there with the valve covers off on the 7.3 because glow plugs are underneath the valve covers. PITA. the only downfall of the 7.3 i'd say the lack of capability of the 4R100 transmissions, they're not Amazing stock, but a built one can handle way more power than a 5R100 all the 5R100s found in trucks 2003.5-2011 its a very solid transmission bulletproof from the factory until you start Squeezing more than 500 hp out of the truck and towing very heavy. i have a built 5R100, 0 issues with it so far been that way for 4 years now. origional transmission crapped out after 220,000 miles towing roughly 13,000 2 times a week.
Dam. This video old but thanks man. I had a convo with an older guy yesterday And he said man since I have 80k cash He said grab a 2001 Ford 250 7.3 and call it a day and save that money for repairs if needed I said damn that’s old. He said I’m telling you good though. I heard you mention 7.3 as well. ✊🏾✊🏾✊🏾✊🏾 I guess I should listen.
Right now u can grab a 98-03 Ford with 7.3 for less than $10k. Miles don't matter. Or get a 2001-2007 Duramax for around $10k also. Put $5-10k into them, rebuild engine ASAP, or run it dead first then rebuild.. Get banks speed brake or exhaust brake. Add fuel tank. Beef up rear end springs, add airbags, get gooseneck hitch. Beef up drivetrain with aftermarket injectors and tunes, cold air intake, exhaust, and a rebuilt or upgraded turbo. Install 5.13 ratio rear end. Now u can pull 30k lbs. Non-cdl on lock for sure, but u can probably go much higher. Either of those trucks with auto or manual tranny are fine from those years. For $22k or less u can have a rebuilt engine, no emissions crap, as good or better power than new trucks, capable and durable rear end. Cheaper insurance, no financing, bulletproof drivetrain. Carry tools and spares of key parts. Forget new trucks, they are extravagantly overpriced. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night owing on a $65k truck knowing a 1999 7.3 can do the same damn thing. RAMs from that earlier era are too hit and miss. The interior gets busted fast. If u find a decent condition ram, fine, the engine is great but u better look for a manual. The Ford and GM autos were much better.
Badass info, im really considering leaving the body shop industry and hot shot driving for a bit. But like everything a million different answers on how to start, this whole time i thought i needed a dually and a brand new truck just to do it
Poor Chevy/GMC always gets left off these videos. Let me tell ya, I run a 2006 GMC Sierra 3500 with the allison 6 speed and the 6.6 Duramax. I find this truck to be the best (my opinion only) for non-CDL hotshot. Mostly because the most you can haul is 10k cargo. Any of the 3500 will suffice with 10k cargo. I like the GMC because of the torsion suspension in the front, plus no one talks about how good the fuel mileage is with the 06'/07' Chevy/GMC trucks. Loaded to 25,900 pounds across the country, load was 9' total height I was getting 13.4 MPG. by the end of the trip. I still use this truck sometimes with 450k miles on it even though I upgraded to the 2020 GMC Sierra. Just my two cents. But yes, the best hotshot truck is the one for you. Great Video man. Kudos.
If you are running a 24 foot box trailer (car hauler with beaver Tail and ramp door with a pallet jack and e track for palletized expedite...there is actually now a 3rd truck you can run. Not heavy enough to do flatbed... but expedite palletized now you can ALSO RUN 2022 AND NEWER TOYOTA TUNDRA WITH THE HYBRID... HAS THE POWER TORQUE AND AIR RIDE SUSPENSIÓN AS WELL AS THE BULLETPROOF TOYOTA RELIABILITY. this is a gas rig. But with the hybrid it has diesel power and torque. It also will get diesel mileage. So for flatbed dodge or Ford diesel one tons..ton... for box trailer expedite dodge or Ford 250/2500 or greater and toyota tundra hybrid.
Take it from an old truck driver. There's a reason the inline configuration is in most big rigs. Because an inline diesel is the best for power and longevity. I was told by a Ford dealer that the reason they went with the V8 configuration is marketing. I've driven both and I have to say the Cummins is more responsive and way simpler than the Powerstroke. The V configuration produces more power in GAS engines. But for diesels inline is the way to go.
Maybe looking into doing a little hot shot on the side eventually still in high school right now but just gotta find out what equipment would be good to start with I’ve got a 3/4 ton gas Chevy already but
Great video! One question off topic. Do you provide the trailer or do you lease on with a company that provide the trailer? Trying to calculate total startup cost
@@Joebleaux best way to go. I’ve been trucking 11 yrs learning the game, just now branching out slowly, while I’m still working fir “THE MAN” I’ve formed my LLC already, waiting on authority now.
@@zvezdangluhic5488 im gonna bulletproof mine here soon and roll the dice. It should scale, and if it scales with the container... then we're in the money
What part of Carolina are you in? I have experience with towing trailers with medium sized heavy equipment and driving box trucks with diesel engines. Im in Cola. I want to get in the game
I like it when people talk bad about the 6.0 because it drives down the prices. The problems are known and are fixable. After bulletproofing the engine you have a 500,000 truck without the 50, 60, or 70 thousand dollar price tag for a new one.
@@willydear4906i like mine,but it recently started smoking white smoke which i knew i needed a egr delete,oil cooler and eventually head studs.I got a awesome deal on it though!
Works great there’s only a problem usually when people pull campers or wedge trailers that are squared at the from they worry about turning radius or hittin the cab with the trailer but no problems with a typical goose neck i do u-turns all the time
I think it’s a bit expensive but am willing to try it out 3 months to see how it goes then you can turn it back it i do think it’s expensive though TP just said he pays about $2300 a month 😬 if u buy a truck for about $1000 and month you could save $1300 and be prepared if u have a problem just my opinion though
what about 1500,2500 and 3500 do i have to buy a 3500? i have 28k saved up i want to put about 10-14k down payment but dont know what type of truck i need. I dont want to be limited on what i can haul. I have my CDL as well . Please help
I would try to put as little down on the truck as possible if anything at all u might need it for other expenses trailer for instance cdl is a major plus i would say get a 3500 being that u have your cdl
Carolina Hotshot damn bro appreciate that bro. My personal credit isn’t that good so I wanted to try to get my payments low. So I can build my business credit. How much do you suggest to put down. Or what would you do?. 10k and save rest ? For trailer and cushion money for fuel and repairs c
Look into those 10 speed transmissions. They're junk! They're so bad that GM has stopped production of them. They don't last 100,000 miles. Watch the youtuber "On the Road". His Ford didn't make 100k. I say this knowing i'm a GM guy myself.