The BEST way to strip paint from a guitar (or bass): How to use the heat gun method 

Excellent l, I'm glad you used it, I think it works really well for a simple method.

Thanks. Good luck with the project. What are your plans?

Thanks. I may make a video just about that as I use it so often for different elements of making the guitar.

I find the scraper does help direct the heat and control it better than having it turned up, but each gun would be different and each person has their own method. Thanks for sharing yours.

Cool, good luck with whatever you are working (what have you got planned) and thanks so much for watching.

@@DevilAndSons Sorry I missed your question. So I bought 3 different Strat bodies on eBay. One is unfinished. I will be staining that one. Another one I will be stripping the paint, then staining that one. I will also be installing the Antares AutoTune kit in that one. The third one ... body is in great shape. I will be installing the Fishman Fluence pickup system in that one. Thanks again for posting the video,

Nice. I don't know that auto kit, I'll look it up. Have fun.

Thanks Horacio, much appreciated.

Very good point, thanks for sharing it

My pleasure. Have fun if you're trying the same.

Interesting, do you mean at the end when you are screwed on all the way?

Anytime, thanks for commenting.

I'm pretty certain they are ahead pair of polyester heat resistant gloves I bought on amazon or somewhere similar. You could use a range of gloves as it's really just for holding the body, I wouldn't put my hands in front of the gun itself.

Thanks for watching. What are you working on?

After watching your tutorial, I decided to refurbish my old Strat, my first guitar, which I bought back in 97. It has a sunburst finish, which I never really liked so it was pretty much collecting dust. I've already removed the paint and now it's time for a new colour: seafoam green. Thank you so much again .

Awesome, and great colour choice. Enjoy.

I use a Moldex 8000 series half mask. I have P3 filters for dust from wood working and ABEK1 filters for spraying. The latter is essential. I think the specific model I have may be 8080. I'm actually thinking of upgrading to a full face cover mask by the same company.

I wear a half mask. Normally when sanding I just have a p3 particle filter, and when spraying an ABEK filter. I use an orbital sander on poly finishes, and I would with nitro if I couldn't heat it off for reason. I used it with a family pad when tweeting.

@@DevilAndSons Thanks! Right, i just realized...nitro. :)

@4stringz324 I must say though, guitar finishes vary so much that sometimes poly just pops of like this and nitro turns out to be hard to remove like this sometimes.

Thank you

Often they have a sealer coat applied. Depending on what you are planning you may not have to worry about removing it. You may find that a stain will work better without it.

@@DevilAndSons Thanks. I was thinking about spray painting it with acrylic with the dominant colour of a picture I'm planning then painting the rest of the design by hand.

Thanks so much for commenting, much appreciated.

I am certain it will.

@@DevilAndSons Thanks! Very helpful. Do you happen to have a suggestion for what to apply to a natural swamp ash body that will leave it un-darkened, and somehow protected, but won't require a sprayer to make it look professional?

It's a pleasure, and thanks for commenting. Lots of people use tru oil, i haven't though. I think that is probably going to be the best solution. I'm sure there are some videos on here of it to help you with that decision.

@@maxhighstein You might try boiled linseed oil. If you want to speed up drying it can be mixed with Japan Drier, which is banned in some American states. Also, mineral spirits mixed with boiled linseed oil can speed up drying because it thins out the oil. Make sure it's BOILED linseed oil, as non-boiled can take forever to dry and in some cases might not completely cure at all. If you use mineral spirits with linseed oil do some research on the ratios. I've seen 50/50 advised and as little as 1:3 linseed oil to mineral spirits in that order. I put the BLO on a maple neck and it darkened a little and has a satin sheen and is as smooth as a baby's butt. You could also stain your raw wood and put clear lacquer on it, but you said you wanted it undarkened. I put my BLO mixture on a test board of pine or poplar and it didn't darken it a bit, but those are light-colored woods. I haven't worked with swamp ash so I don't know if the BLO will darken it or not. BLO is fairly cheap and if you can get some different kinds of scrap wood you can test the mixture on them. You probably know more about it than I do, but I literally just got done finishing a neck 2 days ago.

@@Voartist Thank you for your thoughtful advice!

I would. Just always be careful with the heat levels and how hard you are pushing with the scraper as you don't want to put too much pressure on the body. It's probably a case of slow and steady on that one.

@@DevilAndSons absolutely. Great advice, thanks man. Have a great day 😊

Thank you. You too and good luck.

I would recommend sanding the body to remove any debts etc, but not perfectly smooth so the new paint has something to grip - 600 sandpaper at the finest. Then it depends on the finish, if you want the grain to show through you should use a sanding sealer before the colour, and if you want something solid in colour you could go straight to a primer coat then colour without sanding sealer. Make sure you have removed all dust etc before spraying. I have actually started making some videos about spraying colour on etc but they won't be ready until next year. The main thing is if you are using a lacquer (nitro) you can just spray coats, but if you are using something like a poly you will need to lightly sand between any coats when you leave it to dry. So basically that would mean you can put a few coats of primer on in one go (the paint will recommend something like 10 - 15 minutes between coats), I would suggest 2 or 3 not so heavy coats. Let it dry, lightly sand, then 2 to 3 coats of the colour. Let it dry, lightly sand, then another 2 to 3 coats of colour. Never put thick coats on though. Then you may want a top gloss coat. I have a video on how to buff.

Here's my buffing video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cpXfhX1b2tM.html

I would recommend looking at a few videos by @BradAngove about spraying, he has a lot of great tutorials. ru-vid.com

@@DevilAndSons Thank you so much that's actually really helpful

Any time, if only had my videos ready for you. If you're on social medias and put up any photos of your work please do tag me ( @devilandsons ) I love to see other people's work, it's always inspirational.

I think the small pieces that chip off are probably very bad for you, and I would think the fumes aren't great. The main thing is if you are doing it regularly but I would always say have some protection any way.

It's the only way, slow and steady!

Good question. Yes, I think you'd have to be more careful not catch and scratch the wood, using a thinner width scraper should help, and following the contours around the body as opposed to pushing into the contours should help. But more cautions for sure.

Good luck getting it all off. I guess a thicker finish is actually easier when it comes buffing etc as no risk of accidentally sanding through anything... but still.

I would simply clamp it down, maybe a protective layer between the clamp head and the body, like a scrap of wood, just to ensure you don't clamp too tight and leave an indentation. I use the plastic quick grip clamps a lot for this and don't over tighten, the have never left a mark. Good luck.

@@DevilAndSons Thank you. I will give it a try. 😊

Have fun.

Thanks. You can definitely accidentally scratch or gouge if you're not careful, but a good sand over the body should get rid of any light slips, unless you are very unlucky or heavy handed.

@@DevilAndSons I think he's referring to the heat gun expanding/ warping the wood.

@Jack Darby ah, right. I doubt that isa problem as the heat isn't applied for that long.

Thanks for watching. Sometimes I just clamp down the guitar, but using some scrap wood between the body and the clamp to make sure the clamp doesn't mark the wood. I have some clamps with plastic on them that do the job too. I find two clamps normally work well, I just move them around as I go. You need to be careful if the guitar doesn't lie flat on it's back because of the headstock, and have that overhang the edge of your work table. I hope that all makes sense and good luck.

Squeak squeak

It was pretty cool, but the new butterscotch actually is the thing that made me start liking teles.

The heat could cause the binding to come away depending on how it is glued on, so do be cautious. I think you would probably be OK though and if you are confident enough to remove the paint and respray you shouldn't find glueing binding back to hard if it does come away at points. You will have to be careful though with the scraper ad the binding could easily be marked (simple to sand back, and marks may disappear with the clear top coat anyway) but catching the scraper at an angle into the edge of the binding may chip it.

It should do. Always worth testing in a place that isn't visible (like under a pickguard) if possible, and you may find that sometimes you can peel the acrylic more than crack it off.

@@DevilAndSons thanks

I used a chemical stripper the first few times I removed paint from a guitar, but it's messy and toxic so I avoid it, but nor reason not to give it a go if you don't mind that process. I don't know enough about it to know if it works on both poly and nitro finishes or if you need different products.

@@DevilAndSons I’m not sure what the finish is on this PRS but I think it’s a combo of polyurethane and lacquer if that is at all possible..?

Yes, they have some models where the final coat is a nitro lacquer over the previous poly coats.

It may be, I don't use the air gun on the hottest setting although I imagine the setting I have it in is still hotter than a hair dryer. If you work the area for a while with a hair dryer it may well do the job.

Do you want to strip the paint but keep the binding on?

It depends on what is happening next and how deep any scratches are. Normally I start with 600, but 400 if there are some scratches to sand put. I wouldn't go any further if I were painting it, 600 is good for the primer to go on. If I were to have a wood finish for staining and oiling i would keep going with the sandpaper, 800, 1000, then possibly 1200.

I think this guitar was around 2 hours. I did one a few weeks ago that tool that long. Are you working on one?

Question about that question. Was a sense of humour involved? But seriously, they were done by @tomastomas108 over on Instagram.

I wouldn't risk this technique, it would definitely take too much off. You're probably best carefully sanding as I imagine the paint layer on the squire would be thick enough if you go through it a bit not hit the wood (I may be wrong). But after doing thar you'll definitely need to put a new clear coat on top... 8n which case it may be best to just respray the whole thing.

@@DevilAndSons cheers I'll see how I get on Sanding it off if worst comes to worst I'll just give it a complete refinish picked it up for £50 so not too much to worry about I believe it's from 1992 and is Korean made

Good luck and do let me know how you get on.

Some people are just pee and poo.

I think it might. Hair dryers definitely don't get as hot as a heat gun, so you may find you have to work longer on area to make it soft enough. Also if it doesn't work you can pick up heat guns pretty cheaply.

Please do let me know of ot works with a hair dryer though, that would be good information.

Good luck!

@@DevilAndSons yeaa it didn't work, i'll prob just get a cheap heat gun

That's a shame; worth the try I guess. Thanks for letting me know.

I don't believe stripping the paint will make any noticeable difference, although some people may argue that they can hear a difference (they must have amazing hearing). As for the jack, it could improve things but it really depends on if you are having issues at the moment. A better step might be to improve the shielding inside the cavities. If you are after a big change in sound as opposed to eliciting hum then changing pickups will make the biggest difference.

@@DevilAndSons "Shielding inside the cavaties. I will find out what this means, and do it. I like the guitar very much and everything works fine, except for the high E string which has lower volume and smack than the other 5 strings. I tried to change the thin Harley Benton jackstik-cable to a thicker standart 20 dollars Fender cable. That improved the sound a little bit. So I ordered Thomann's best cable. 3,5 meter for 140 euro/dollars. All the reviews on Thomann say they are very satisfied with the price/quality of this cable.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_N5xPRFo5kE.html

That top e problem might be resolved with new strings if you have the ones it came with still on it.

@@DevilAndSons Thank you for the video mate. I will send it to my local luthier and aks if he can do this to my new Harley Benton Strat which arrived today. A lot of humming from that one. Nothing from the Harley Benton Tele I bought about a month ago. That expensive cable is even better than I was expecting. I was hoping for a couple of percent improved sound. I would say it gives around 10%. As for a Harley Benton, all those small cables inside the guitar under the pickguard are made of cheap metal, maybe not even pure copper. Are you sure it will not improve the sound to change them to pure silver?

That sounds like the paint wasn't bonded very well to the undercoat. Every company uses a different approach to painting, and even on different models and between different factories.

Did you get the result you wanted in the end?

@@DevilAndSons getting there. I stripped what I could and im sanding away the undercoat which wont strip with a heat gun. It will work but im sanding by hand so I decided to do a little every day for a week ;-)

That sounds like a work out! The sanding is long process but sounds like the right one. I wonder what type of undercoat paint it is?

@@DevilAndSons No idea. Its sort of a marigold colour and its pretty tough but I will win!

I think some people would like it but it's definitely not my favourite.

I don't know what a stipulator is.

@@DevilAndSons oh

I tried looking it up online but didn't get any results. What is it?

Oh no. How much did you get off? Is part of the disaster marks left by the scraper in the wood? It can probably be sorted out. If you can describe it a bit more I can suggest a fix.

@@DevilAndSons Thank u, i tried it on an old cheap guitar, i will fix it with a lot sandpaper and matte finish with some colour of brown wood. I will do something. It was an experiment. It needs very patient work and very steady had to remove the gloss finish. Ur way is indeed the best but neess experience!!!

@dimitrispapadopoulos9245 good luck. Cheap guitars are a great way to experiment. Sounds like you have a good plan. Thanks for watching and commenting

You can. I find that everyone I use it is a bit different depending on the age and make of the finish, and the thickness... but it should work fine.

@@DevilAndSons thanks for that.

@@DevilAndSons it’s a Brad Paisley Silver Sparkle. Was wondering if straight sanding or the heat gun method would be best?

I just removed a sparkle finish off of a american professional series strat, it took a while with the heat gun but probably quicker than sanding as it was on thick, but I had to do some sanding after anyway to neaten things up. If you have a heat gun I'd say start with that and if it seems to be taking too long try sanding. The heat gun will be less messy.

@@DevilAndSons This is awesome information and much appreciated thanks! I’ll give it a go. First time so keen to get it right as it’s a beautiful guitar.

Yes.

It should work on poly too.

@@DevilAndSons thanks then! incredible Relic Design, btw

Cheers, glad you like. What are you planning to do with your stripped guitar?

Hello, thanks for letting me know.

I find it depends in the finish as to how quick it is, and having a hot scraper makes it easier. Have you got a specific technique or some tips you can recommend?

It needs to stay away from ME!

@@DevilAndSons ...Faaar? ,,,

Faaar!