I was playing around recently with an antique spindle back chair that I hadn’t worked on since the mid ‘70s. I used golden oak Restor-A-Finish and left it overnight to “off gas”. The next day, I used Feed-N-Wax generously and left it to soak in overnight. I had stained the chair in the ‘70s, but didn’t put a clear hard finish on it and it had sun faded. When I wiped the wax off, it had become a beautiful almost dark oak color. I was very happy with the result.
The Howard Feed-N-Weed Wax Beeswax works great!!!...I just used it on a pair of Ampex Model 2010 speakers...You'll want to do ALL the wood in your home...
Howard's seals the oils in with it's beeswax content. Howard's is all I ever use on my antique radio collection. And the oak railings in my house annually.
Just came across your channel, good stuff, what you'll probably want to try and will like the results I'd imagine, is I always use danish oil on the cabinets first and let it soak up well and buff and let it seep in the grain for 2-3 days and if it's dry and hasn't been done in years I'll do 2 coats and the grain looks great, then I go over it with Howard's like you used and seal the oil in the grain, looks great for 2-3 months usually, then repeat 3-4 times a year or whenever you wish. If you want a glossier finish just use tung oil instead of danish, for natural satin/low gloss look use danish.
Thanks for posting this, I think you did a very good job! I've been wondering how it worked in the "real" world and now I know. I think it did a nice job and that last piece really transformed.
I’ve been using Howard’s Feed & Wax on the wood cases for my vintage Luxman gear and it looks great. I was debating on trying General Finishes oil-based satin which I recently used on a new stereo rack I just finished, but after find your video last night I am going to use Howard’s Feed & Wax. You have a great channel👍👍
Thank you so much!! Number one is definitely a winner.. this was such a big help.. I'm going to use one on my floors and my doll house and three on The border's the windows.. and the stairs
Glad you liked the video. Pledge is designed to be used on sealed wood, so it’s not something that’s going to penetrate and protect. Products like that are good for routine dusting, although some claim they leave a harmful buildup. It’ll clean the surface and maybe add a bit of shine, but that’s about it. I imagine it’ll perform about as well as the lemon oil I show in the video.
I use feed and wax but apply it with steel wool, now I don't go crazy hard but it helps knock of any paint dots that I seem to always find on vintage speakers.
Cool video! I was just looking for a wax/oil or polish for my Thiel CS 2.3s and found your video. I use to own the Ohm Walsh 4's years ago. Thanks for doing the comparison.
OK, do any of these kill mold or keep it away ?, I have an old clock cabinet and don't want to ruin the finish with vinegar or bleach and water solutions.
Tung oil is fantastic, but is considered more of a finish than a quick polish which is the purpose of these products. The polishes are intended to be used on already finished wood. I’m not certain how well tung oil would work as a polish.
The wood grain itself is largely not going to be penetrated in a great many cases. But the protective layer is always somewhat porous and can develop nicks, cracks and an unevenness over time. The less smooth the protective layer, the more dull the appearance. Products like this fill in the pores and cracks in in the protective layers which often enhances the appearance. This is similar with car paint. When you wax and polish it’s not the paint layer you’re addressing. It’s the clear coat.
Yes, that's another great Howard product, thanks for mentioning it. Restor-A-Finish can often remove heat rings, water marks and other damage without the need for stripping and re-staining. If the finish is already in good shape and just needs a shine, though, the Feed-N-Wax on its own is a great solution.
@@6atlantisCorrect. You cannot use these products on top of a poly finish. And, just as importantly, you cannot put poly on top of the Howard's and beeswax.
Hm. Not sure. Those tend to have more of a poly, high-gloss finish and I’d be concerned about fingerprints. It might be worth a shot, but this is better for stained or natural wood, not poly-coat.
I use the Liquid Gold a lot different than this . I let it soak and after a few hours it is gone . This penetrates the fiber and gives the wood a look of depth that dry wood lacks . It is not really a surface treatment . Any product that leaves a surface needs to be used with caution as it can build up and leave a milky appearance after a few applications .
Interesting. My experience with liquid gold is that it doesn’t benefit from leaving it on for more than a few minutes and needs to be wiped away. This is what’s recommended in the instructions. I’d be surprised that after a few hours liquid gold would disappear and not require a wipe down. Doing so would leave a nice shiny surface, but it would be greasy and show fingerprints. Products with silicone can leave a milky appearance, but the Feed-n-wax won’t. It’s a combination of beeswax, carnauba wax and orange oil.
@@FluxCondenser Try it ! There might be a litte to remove after a few hours depending on the porosity of the substrate . Most of the product will be absorbed .
In my experience with my antique radio collection, liquid gold, especially when left on, stays greasy and somewhat invites dust and dirt to stick to the area. Howard's soaks in and you're left with natural beeswax that seals the wood and really gets down into the pours of the wood after buffing, essentially sealing and protecting the wood. But to each their own.
Not much. Poly is almost a sealant, so little can penetrate. If the poly is scratched and dull though, these products can fill those in leaving a shine. The better product for poly would be the Howards.
Yeah I can't trust this video. To me not a true comparison video if you don't leave the products on the same amount of time. This doesn't seem fair to me. The lighting is focusing mostly on the left side so can't see the wood on the right side as well because the lighting is darker.
