Consider using the links below for your new high-performing sealant! It’s no cost to you and a great way to support this channel 🛞 🧡 Orange Seal Regular: Best For MTB/Gravel - Pressures Under 35 PSI $35 for 946ml on Amazon - amzn.to/44nR6SR $21 for 473ml on Amazon - amzn.to/44nR6SR $17 for 237ml w/ injector - amzn.to/44nR6SR 💙 Peaty's Holeshot Biofibre: Best For Road/Gravel - Pressures Over 35 PSI $36 for 1000ml on Amazon - amzn.to/44mV1iR $29 for 500ml on Amazon - amzn.to/3WlkJ5h $7 for 120ml w/ reusable pouch injector on Amazon - amzn.to/4aW594q 💚 Stans Original: Best For MTB/Gravel - Pressures Under 35 PSI $33 for 946ml on Amazon - amzn.to/3UHcejM $20 for 473ml on Amazon - amzn.to/3UHcejM $8 for 59ml w/ reusable bottle injector - amzn.to/3Qs5dR6 💜 Stans Race Day: Best For Road, Gravel and MTB - All Pressures $41 for 946ml on Amazon - amzn.to/4bDunVn
Thanks for the research and informative presentation! Orange Endurance is our exclusive "bulk sealant" in the shop, because it has above average performance with great longevity (low maintenance). Orange Regular is my race season sealant and I simply mix it with whatever endurance sealant is left in my tire from training season if I am not mounting new tires. Also, We hold informative tubeless clinics in the shop and use our own old tires to demonstrate performance in live scenarios with customers. Orange almost always outperforms in these side by side comparisons. Especially when value is considered. We do have good luck with Silca at higher psi, but Orange wins with performance and value at gravel and MTB pressures (under 35psi). Cheers!
the biggest improvements in my old (but great for me) bikes have come from your recommendations. there is nothing better than renewing your old ride with new tech that is more comfortable, makes the miles pass with more pleasure, and extending my rides beyond my own life cycle. thank you. ride on!!
The timing of this video is perfect, I just had a puncture on my gravel bike this morning that I used a plug on, but I think my negligence meant there wasn’t much sealant in the tire. I paused and went to let out all the CO2 as soon as you mentioned it haha
Interesting finds on the Silca results. My personal anecdotal "data" is that it works great. Running it on a few bikes at 15-30psi and the only flat I've had was when I neglected it too long and let it go dry. But yeah, other than Silca, I've done great with OrangeSeal over the years. One thing I've done for bikes that I may not ride very often is to use tubes with removeable valve cores and then put OrangeSeal in the tube. The sealant works great for the small punctures and bonus is that it lasts MUCH longer, perhaps up to and over one year. Downside is that if you have had several punctures, it can sometimes 'weld' the tube to the tire.
I have run Silca on my gravel bike this past season (2024). Never had it fail despite some pretty massive punctures. I ran Orange Seal all of last year (23), it failed me 3 times before I switched over. I have also had a lot of friends convert from Stans and Orange who have had similar experiences. I am sure CyclingAbout has done through tests but similarly, based on my anecdotal experience, Silca has been far and above better than anything I have run (I have run both Stans and Orange Seal). I am wondering if this is just an anomaly or some sort of failed logic in the testing? Not throwing shade but these results confused me.
@@zachphillippy1965the pro cyclists garage had a good article about these popular sealants and how they differ from each other. The biggest difference here I'd assume is that one month of waiting period, as the article outlined that the silca is a sealant that is really fast to dry up. So easy, that just by inflating the tire in a wrong position could clog up the core. And that kind of left the impression that should be talked about more regarding the sealants, what kind of environment you are using them? A race need faster clogging, but months of bikepacking needs a sealant that stays fresh for a long time.
I've been using Orange seal on non-tubeless road bike rims along with tubeless gravel tires for years with good results. I found the most supple tires most often allow too much seepages through sidewalls to the point that I went back to tubes for those tires. I have been following your channel for a long time and like all videos. Thanks,
Anecdotally I‘m using Stans Race sealant for 4 years now on 3 different bikes with tyres width 2 to 3 inches. I renew the Sealant once per year mostly without issue. Only exception is when I go on a remote bike packing trip I will clean the tyres and refill the sealant. I average about 10000 km on a bike a year and I haven’t had a flat in the last few years. So yeah, my experience pretty much matches the data pretty well except for the part where Stance Race doesn’t last that long.
I also run the endurance version in my gravel/cross bike @ 30psi. I add sealant every 3 months and do that for the life of the tire, usually every 3 years or so (Schwalbe Marathon Mondial). I used to run Stans regular, it worked OK, but the big advantage I find with Orange Seal is that it's simple to remove any buildup from the tire if needed. It just peels out in one piece leaving clean rubber inside the tire. Search for a video entitled "Tubeless Tire Rotation" on my channel, around the 3:45 mark shows the inside of the tire.
As always I’ve learned. Thank you❤ My big trip in 2007 started with sealant. Though it didn’t do a good job back then. After installing Schwalbe marathon XR I had only a couple punctures in 24000km..
I was using those tyres back then too. I had just 3-4 punctures in over 30,000km! Unfortunately, they aren't wide enough for the kind of places I explore these days...
I think that although I have a gravel bike, I need to follow your MTB recommendations. I say that as I am running 42mm Rene-Herse at 26/25 PSI. As it happens I have always used Orange Standard and have never had a puncture (although I find plenty of thorns stuck through the tyres when I take them off). Great video, very informative, new subscriber
I live is 'goat head heaven' in eastern Colorado. With multi-thorns in each wheel each ride, everything you say agrees with what I got with orange. I love the xtra info. Ty : }
Your experience and mine are the same. I now use Orange Seal Regular on all my mountain bikes and bikepacking rigs. After many disappointing results from other brands.
OK, I had an idea, even before seeing what Orange Seal does, just from having heard you say that some tyres are, as I understood, "thirsty" (porous) and can "drink" the sealant, or its evaporating components, after a short time: Here it goes. I bet there is some lubricant, like petroleum jelly or others, which could help create a film on your inner tyre surface, stopping the abovementioed effect, and also working against the sealant drying up inside the tyre.
Well put together. Certainly, these results demonstrate with somewhat startling clarity, the important differences between sealants working at different tyre pressure. I’d be interested to see the results of a trial re-run employing bacon strips or other plug types.
Never heard of peaty's, just starting my tubeless journey on my personal bikes. Like using muc-off tubeless tape in my work as a mechanic so I went with them, good to see muc-off is still pretty well performing. Will try a bottle of Peaty's next year when muc-off is depleted. Thanks for the video!
Just a friendly FYI anecdote - Peaty's doesn't work well with porous tires, tried it on a pair of 40mm Gravelkings and after a month the wheel felt imbalanced. When I checked it out the sealant had dried into a thick, hard-to-remove slime which was stuck in place. Orange Seal dried just as fast but was more distributed and easier to peel out.
Something that Alee didn't mention is the option of removing the valve core before injecting sealant through the valve stem. It adds a couple of steps to the process, but it only takes a few minutes at most. Some folks recommend soaking the valve cores in mineral oil before installation in order to make them hydrophobic, thus reducing the rate at which they gum up with sealant. Other than that, I found interesting how different sealants appear to work best at different pressure ranges. I would have thought that a sealant that works well at high pressures would also excel at low pressures, but the data doesn't appear to support that.
Yeah, personally Stan’s has lasted really long in my MTB tires even in temperatures around 120F. Several months and a bit of leftover latex. I’ll have to give orange seal a try though. I’ve heard great things.
Orange Seal Endurance has worked great for me in South Carolina BUT in the Summer 90F90RH weather you need to top off regular or use a BIG dose in the winter 60 ml in a 700-30 tire will last 5 months no problem
How often do you top off in the summer? I ride 450 miles/month, 28mm GP5000, and when I inspected at 2.5 months my sealant was dried/gone. I was surprised because the regular stuff lasts longer than that. Although, I could have had a puncture and not known.
I'm using Stan's Race for the initial setup und Stan's original for topping up every few month. Only hole in the last ~50k km that wouldn't seal and I had to use a plug. Topping up with Stan's original through the valve simple enough.
Wish there were more tests done on the WTB sealant. It's readily available for an affordable price from REI and Amazon and has worked as well as Stan's for my tires.
The one independent test with data on WTB suggests that it works well on 47mm wide tyres at 40 PSI. It’d be interesting to see how it performs at both higher and lower pressures though! What pressure are you using?
I gave it a shot. Used it for 3 bikes of my family and my own gravel tires. No issues so far. Would love some more data on it, especially on road tires.
I recently crashed a road/gravel bike when going straight on a small round-about (so barely lent over) after my rear punctured and Finish Line "never dries out" Sealant had escaped, as expected, but although it was only a small amount, it had coated the outside of the 38mm Schwalbe G-One Speed tyre, leaving it as slick as oil, so I hit the deck instantly! I have now gone back to latex-based sealants in the hope of never experiencing that again. Obviously, too much of any sealant coming out is going to be sketchy for handling but I have never heard any reviewers discussing such instant and potentially fatal loss of traction.
Everybody's sleeping on Oko Magic Milk Hi Fibre. It resembles Peaty's and is water soluble, synthetic latex, and CO2 friendly. I water it down in my MTB and use undiluted in my road tires. It can be refreshed in a pinch with just water, too.
Thanks for an awesome sealant rating! I’ll definitely try your top picks. A little bit of topic, have you seen vanmoof’s split belt? What are your thoughts on it?
I can confirm Bontrager sealant is terrible. Tried it at low pressure gravel tires and higher pressure (75psi) road tires and had 2 failures from small punctures. Switched to orange seal. no issues. even use it in tpu tubes.
Stans regular is great, but Stans Race is too darn sticky to deal with. Removing and remounting a tire that had Stans Race in it is a PITA. It clogs valve stems too. I went back to Stans regular and am very happy with it.
Good video mate thank you , the last time i put tyre sealant in my MB tyres , i was a few k's from home and some thing punctured my rear tyre , with i' d say about a 1 to 2 mm hole , the liquid i can't remember the brand , not one mentioned in the video , it was spitting out green stuff at a great rate of knots , i managed to get about halfway home before pumping up the tyre again , i did manage to ride the rest of the way home in about 7 or 8 minutes , the tyre was just barely rideable by the time I got home , very disappointing really , the tyre liquid was not cheap either . On the other hand without it , i may have been walking home , so there is that😊.
I run both Silca and Stan's on my bikes and I'm surprised that Slica didn't do that well in the long term testing. In the future I'll stick with Stan's and replace my Silca sealant with Peaty's.
Still on tubes and using green slime. Only time it let me down is when it had turned too watery after a few years of not being used/ checked and the got a tiny thorn which ruined a ride, got home tried to repair puncture to no avail but adding more slime fixed it ..
I fully concur with you my own expereince was Silca is hype over substance threw away very expensive leftover and 2 bottles of replenisher Stans hardly worked maybe once Peatys let me down 2 months ago when on a bike tour however back home it worked on glass cuts i find regular shape tests like nails they all can work better however irregular cuts is the real test My cuts would be your 4mm My next try is Orange and Milkit I use gravel and road tyres Stans Darts just fell to bits on the last 4 punctures losing all air they did replace them so hope they work next time BTW I recently tried Leyzene Proplugs they didn't work
I'm using Stans Original since march this year in both MTB and gravel bikes. Both at 2-2.7 bar. Honestly I can't tell about performance since I never got a single puncture yet (lol) but I've swapped tires on my gravel bike after 4 months and it's condition was good enough to put it in another set of tires so I did it adding a little bit on top. My usual season is around 7-8 months of riding so I guess I have enough to not swap sealant entirely until the next one.
I've been using Stan's for over 3 years. I've tried muc-off, it was terrible for road / gravel. Conti is not bad, but every time I switched back to Stan's (normal and race).
Weldtite lasts 9 months and you get a core tool in the lid. I've ridden a gravel bike for the last 2 years, approx 9 days outta 10, 25-40 miles 70/30 offroad/road, average southern UK temps and i know i'm gonna jinx myself now so i'll whisper this, 'i've never had to bail on a ride'
Personally…. As I change tyres on one Mtb bike for various riding from bike park to xc, I put sealant in tubes to avoid the mess and contaminating the tyre. Weldrite for tubes seems to work ok but won’t seal over 3 or 4 mm holes
Replace every 2-5 months? That makes tubeless out of the question for me, not worth the hassle. But I've had great experience with Muc-Off inner tube sealant. Best of both worlds. Great at stopping punctures, and lasts the life of the tube without drying out. No mess, no maintenance hassle. IMHO the best option for practical, non-competitive cycling where ease of use matter more than speed and light weight.
It depends. If you have a decently sealed tire and don't live in a very dry climate you can easily go a year. It also takes all of a minute to add sealant if you know what you are doing. Inner tube sealant doesn't work on pinch flats so it's complete garbage for me as that's what most of my flats were on tubes. It will make just as much mess as tubeless too. If you're someone that rides at high pressures you may not have to worry about that, but I like a comfy ride. Tubeless allows me to ride lower pressures without worry.
The time to fix one tube puncture is more than the time to change your sealant, and you can do it in the comfort of your garage. Also, I've gone 6 months without changing or adding sealant. I only add it if I get a puncture that I'm forced to fix, likely due to low sealant.
@@billweberx The time to fix a tube is zero when the tube doesn't go flat, which is the case for me. Going tubeless would cost me in extra maintenance time. I haven't had flats in years, since I started using inner tube sealant.
@@iknowzeverything2740 Yeah, it depends. Pinch flats aren't a thing for me. I like a comfy ride, but there's no need to go that low for comfort. And I don't like the vague steering when pressure is that low. Type of riding matters a lot. I occasionally ride over roots and rocks, but mostly on roads.
@@tvuser9529 In your case, I wouldn't change anything either. I've had a completely different experience with in tube sealant. I had a friend who also swore by it. If it's working for you. Great.
The worst Ive used was the 2018 FinishLine sealant. Its claim is it never dries out but it never dries to fill a micro p'ture, My 25mm road tyre would gradually lose pressure and a slight bump (such as a cateye) was enough to unseat it.
I ever only had Stans in my MTB. Luckely no bad choice. Never had any problems indeed. Didnt even know more than about 5 diffirent sealants existed.. Oh and thanks for the CO2 tip, didnt know that yet.
I have been using Stans for over a decade now, I don't think I even got a single puncture that it could not seal. Just out of curiosity I checked out your recommendation (Orange Seal), and here the price is the double of Stans... thanks, but no thanks.
In most markets, the retail price of Orange Seal is within 10% of Stans. Either you've found a discounted price on Stans or your local distributor of Orange Seal is greedy!
I'd be interested in some outside the box thinking, and testing of automotive fix-a-flat. I know it seals the inner surface of the tire. Pennzoil makes bike-tire sized cans of fix-a-flat....
The problem with the emergency automotive stuff is it will ruin the inside of the tire and be hell to clean off the rim. Then there is Slime, which is dirt cheap, but doesn't seal rim seat well. So you'll have endless slow leaks.
I think you saw no latex in the Stans tyre after 4 months because most of it is at the bottom of the canister. Increasingly so with the race version. Stans is just a better version of something that isn't good enough, and the race one is just not worth the hassle.
Do you know which one is least corrosive to alloy rims? And honestly I always felt Peaty's products were a bit exaggerated in advertising but it is surprising that they are pretty good. Does theirs have less ammonia?
Hi Alee, which sealant and valves do you personally use with your 2.8 G-Ones? I am using the same tyres as you, and I would like to switch to tubeless (never used tubeless before). I use my bike for daily commutes to the office as well as for long touring adventures.
I'm still not sure which product to use. I normally run at 50 PSI. It's in the middle between road and MTB. I currently use Stans regular, but I have had a couple of flats with small holes and had to plug them with a bacon strip. Should I go to Orange or Stans Race Day? Peaty's? Longevity is important as I do extremely long bicycle tours and don't want to constantly change the sealant. But not fixing flats is an even higher priority.
I’ve stopped using Silca after a year of randonneuring. 60 psi on 700 x 32c continental tires. I find the carbon fiber bits coagulate and form balls up to 2 to 5mm. This makes the carbon fiber useless and the latex can’t seal holes. And when it’s raining…it’s useless because the latex never dries
So which one should I go for if I am looking at for gravel tires at 30-40 psi (as I often mix road and gravel) ranges but not something as high maintenance as Stan's Race Day?
What about FlatOut sealant? I see that it works extremely well to seal tubed bike fat tires even against drill bits but does it work well on tubeless like it's intended for?
I don't think I'll ever switch over to tubeless, since I can't remember the last flat I got with tubes. Full disclosure - I'm mostly a daily commuter on roads, so prickly mtb trails or sharp fresh gravel aren't much of a worry for me. After seeing someone use a cushcore in their tire, it made me wonder if there could be a foam tire liner along the main tire track along with using tubes? This would prevent those most common punctures in that zone. Sidewall slashes could still be a thing, but usually sidewall cuts are bad enough, it ruins the tire no matter what. Wonder how that would work; would it enhance or degrade suppleness of the tire, and how effective would puncture resistance be? Mainly, I'm lazy and don't want the mess or maintenance of tubeless setup, so I'll try anything not to switch over. : )
If you don't normally get many flats, why bother with tubeless? If you were mountain biking, tubeless allows you to run at lower pressures for a softer ride.
If the old one is dry, or they are similar latex based, its usually ok. But if its incompatible, might never seal and you'll have to clean everything out.
I'm interested in moving to tubeless, but I'm worried about flying with sealant / reinflating on arrival. What are you thoughts on flying with tubeless tires? Do you deflate completely and then add sealant on arrival?
I don't see how that would matter, pressure at 0m altitude is only 1 bar, so the tire pressure can't increase by more than 1 bar doring flight. Which should be absolutely no problem.
It's usually just a requirement of airlines. It's not uncommon for someone to check your tyres are deflated before you take your bike over to oversized baggage.
@@Cyclingabout thx! yeah my only worry is I arrive and the tire somehow got unseated and then I have a mess AND I have to find a way to reseat the tire which can't always be achieved with a handpump. But assuming you have done this a lot and sounds like you have no horror stories haha
@@BL-yj2wp You are correct, should be fine as long as it's not overpressured to begin with, but try getting an airline clerk to accept that. If they've been ordered to ensure all tyres are emptied, they will do so. One of many reasons why I'm going by train these days.
