The allowance setting lets you adjust the size of the fingers. If you had entered 0.01", you basically gave a quarter of a millimeter allowance for the joints to fit more loosely. A zero allowance means your joints, especially in thicker wood, will take more force to put together.
What I do I put an extra piece of plywood between the wasteboard and the piece and then I comfortably cut a little deeper (1mm or so) will give you a clean cut on both sides
First video I ever saw on this gadget. You're right, adding a small allowance will give you a little wiggle room. Great job and thank you for the video!
If you mill in front of the shapeoko you can make real dovetails and fingerjoints I make drawers with genuine dovetails with no rounded corners and gaps The shapeoko can reach in front of the wasteboard the main reason why I bought this machine I also do tenons on it for table legs or shelves in a cupboard etc etc etc (all with the free program Fusion 360) nice video .
Nice video, thanks for sharing. One comment though: I know making that hinged lid was probably an afterthought, but if you would plan right from the outset to have a hinged lid, I would probably just make two boxes, each without a lid and with different heights, such that their total height adds up to the present total height. I mean, the two pieces you had after you sawed the box open were basically two lidless boxes of different heights.
You are absolutely right on that. Not only would you be able to make custom size top, and bottom, but they would in theory be perfectly flat, and fit together just right.
I think you just sold me on VCarve. I've been on the fence for a while, but I have *a lot* of drawers, trays, and boxes to make for an upcoming shop organization project and this will really help.
Hey there buddy, sorry I don't know your name. I watched your video on this about three weeks ago and was pretty impressed. When I went to my other computer (I have one that I use for the CNC only) I opened a new project in Vcarve and what do you know there was the Gadgets tab at the top of the screen. I have been using Vcarve for about four years and had never noticed that up there. My Vcarve Pro is version 8.5 so there was no box creator in there. So I upgraded to 9.5, which was free, but the Box Creator Gadget was not in there either. So I downloaded it from Vectrics website. You were right in your video, that field that asks for the "Tolerance" is for clearance in the joints. The problem I'm having is I don't know what you are supposed to enter for a tolerance. Thinking it must be the clearance between the fingers and the pockets I went with 5 thousandths of an inch, 0.005" thinking that should be enough. I ran a box that I had been thinking of making anyway through the program. I think it is 20 inches wide by 8 inches deep and 6 inches tall. When the machine finished cutting out the parts I knew there was a problem. The space between the fingers and the pockets was about 1/4". I did find out one thing, and that is that if you cut out a box from 1/2 or 3/4 inch material, you WILL NOT be able to put it together if you leave the value in that "Tolerance" window at zero. You were lucky when you made your little box in the video out of really thin material. Anything thicker and you won't be able to put it together. So I have no clue what kind of figures you are supposed to put into that field asking for "Tolerance." I have went through a complete 4 by 8 sheet of 1/2 inch plywood trying to make this stupid thing work with no results, and trying different tolerances. So far everything I've tried is either way to loose or way too tight. So I have given up on it for now. I posted a question about it on Vectrics" forum, but have had no responses yet. Have you looked into this any farther since your first video? If so would sure like to hear what you found out. OK, that's it for now. If I learn any more I'll let you know. Thanks for the video. Jim
Good project. Do the gadgets work in any vectric software? The dogbone gaps can easily be filled with sawdust & glue. But I wouldn't have a problem leave the female cuts rounded & shaving the male corners with craft knife or fine chisel
Very cool finger joint box man. I gotta get me a CNC soon. Do you know if the Vcarve pro software will work with the Shapeoko 3? I hope I am asking the question correctly I am a total CNC newbie/novice/rookie.
I am about to get my first cnc, and I want this software, I am cabinet maker, and I finish my pieces before I mill them tongue and groove on router table, and the top coat prevents tear out on the plywood.............
You know you can cut (real) through dovetails with the shapeoko?, without the nasty looking dogbones or filets , just clamp the stock against the front of the workbench of you shapoko (flush with the wasteboard) There you can do endgrain milling like tennons and mortises, or dove tails, fingerjoints etc, or text at the side of a board ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0KVqrmXqHTM.html (a 5 min video)
That's a very cool tool. Being that it's created with a round bit, could the tool be edited to create matching radiused corners and tabs instead of filet gaps? Can you edit the tool output or do you need to edit the design after the tool creates it?
Short answer is "no". To create a matching curve you'd need to use a round-over bit and round over each "leg" of the box joints' inside faces. To do that, you would need to create a single line (vector) on each box joint's inside edges. It would be easier to eliminate the fillets (sp?) and file all the corners square. (Don't know if my explanation makes any sense.)
@@richardfarwell6759 it does. Maybe an over the edge clamping jig could do it with a gantry that allows the spindle to over hang the edge. Or a slot in the table to accept tall stock. But cutting anything flat with a round bit all the way through, surface to surface, no pocketing and get the same strength of joint....yep looks like you still have to bust out the chisel.
Hi, first of all I am new to Shapeoko and Vectric Aspire, however I tried to copy your video to make a Dovetail box and then a tabbed box and the dovetails were moving around and my tabs were moving around, they almost had 1/8th gap either side (Same as the end mill i used), the bit in the video that was missing was the part that mentions/shows the cut (Inside/Outside or follow the line) what did you use? because I think i am using the wrong one hence the 1/8th inch gaps either side of my tabs/dovetails. Many thanks and keep up the good work.
Hello I am new to the Shapoko machine. I learned CNC using Vectric Vcarve on a Next Wave HD CNC machine. That machine has specific controller software that the G code file is loaded into. The Shapoko machine I am learning to use now is at Make Haven on New Haven CT. The driver is an Arduino connected to Easel. I would like to continue to use Vcarve as it was several hundred dollars to buy. My main question is do I have to load the Gcode created in V Carve into Easel and then to the CNC, or can I drive the machine right from my laptop by sending the G code file right into the Shapoko CNC? thanks Bob McGonigle
How do you like the Dewalt for a spindle? I've been using a rotozip, and it finally seized up. Of course, i'm going to put a $5 bearing in the $60, 10 year old rotozip, but may upgrade soon too. Thanks for the video.
Since you didn't get a reply i'll throw this your way... I bought this spindle motor for my DIY 5'x10' CNC table build. Plus a 13-pack of ER11 1mm-7mm collets and assorted milling bits. www.banggood.com/Machifit-ER11-Chuck-CNC-500W-Spindle-Motor-with-52mm-Clamps-and-Power-Supply-Speed-Governor-p-1027937.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
Hello, i'v seen 3d figures being carved with shapeoko, knowing that shapeoko is 2.5d and does not support stl files, i wanted to ask if you could let us know how is that, how is it done, 3d not v carving but 3d carving with shapeoko, in short words ?
Nice! I love this feature, I'm wondering what are you personally using to send your gcode to the shapeoko? is the output file from vectrics a .nc? so just use carbide motion? or else?
It makes a recessed lid and straight tops, so the lid is the same size as the outside of the box, but the recessed part of the lid fits inside the box making it a lid that cannot be easily hinged.
The gaps all over the place do not give a good finish, though nice that the programme does the work for you. If two sides were held vertically and the cutter came across them then a better result could be achieved. If the tongues and cut outs were even in length then moving one board exactly one cut out to the right (or left) would mean that the cut outs would be in the correct place. Perhaps four boards could be done at once with perhaps a sacrificial outer and inner board to stop rip out. If the G code, which would be easy to create, was written once it could be used for multiple jobs, say using 0.25inch. Fancier cutters could also be used. A coarse cut with a left and right finishing cut would probably be better. Length of sides would be a whole number multiple of 0.25 inches.
I’m a NOOB to the CNC world. My question is with VCarve - you save file to a USB. Do you run the file through Carbide? Or is there another program to get that file to be cut on the Shapeoko? Great video btw!
I design my projects in VCarve Pro. I save the GCode files to a thumb drive. I take the thumb drive into my shop where I put it in my laptop that is hooked up to the machine. I run Carbide Motion on the laptop which sends the GCode to the machine from the thumb drive. The thumb drive and transfer would be cut out of the equation if I designed on the computer I have hooked up to the machine, but I prefer to do the computer work in the house versus my non-climate controlled garage. Hope I was able to answer your questions.
Place a couple strips of painters tape onto the spoilboard. Place painters tape onto the project board that matches the location of the tape on the spoilboard. place some super glue onto the tape on the spoilboard and place the workpiece (tape side down) onto the spoilboard . press down until the glue dries.
I'm going to assume you have a shapeoko and VCarve? If so and you couldn't get them to work together it has to be something you are doing wrong. With the exception of Carbide create vectric products are probably some of the most common programs used with the Shapeoko. They work perfectly fine with the GRBL boards. If it's not working for you maybe you are using the wrong post processor?? Details Capt. maybe I can help.
youentehey man thanks for the reply and sorry I did not get back sooner but my Department has kept me so busy I haven't even seen my machine in over 2 weeks. Yes it was PhotoVcarve. I had to contact vertec and get the proseser code to place into the file. PhotoVcarve is absolutely great. Coolest thing I have seen yet. I am just starting out so it will take me a bit to work out the kinks but so far it's wonderful. Thanks again.
I am having problems download the gadgets. Is there something I need to do first? I open the EXE file but then just get a blank where the select gadget is supposed to be. The exe file complets OK but no gadget?
The gadgets are no where near perfected. There are still a LOT of stuff you have to modify. For example the dove tail gadget. It Always puts the tails or the pins in the wrong place. Like both facing the same way as opposed to the opposite direction. Then once you correct placing the tails or pins the Gadget program is impossible to move with the new placement. So you end up with the sloping angle for the tails in one place and the outside cut in another place.
I'm not really sure, but here is the link to download it. After you download it you should automatically see it in the gadgets tab in the program. Close the program before you download it, and then re-open it. Let me know if it worked.
