This is really valuable info. Many people, including so-called AR experts, get this stuff wrong. Thank you for posting such an organized and well-presented video! People like me who are still learning the finer points of rifles need this kind of resource.
You have to consider though, that commercial parts have variable gas port sizes. This alteration makes the advice on this video apply only to parts that remain exactly as colt originally produced them back in the day.
@@johnqpublic2718 Because when I apply what a lot of internet “experts” tell me, it ends up not working. Also, my original comment is 4 years old. I’ve been shooting an AR in competition for the last 3.5 of those 4 years, and building my own setups for the last 3 years. I’m an expert, by any reasonable definition of the word. And you know what? This video still holds up.
This is easily the most in-depth discussion on buffer on RU-vid. I'm very curious to hear your thoughts on the other half of the buffer system: the buffer spring. Specifically, when should I consider moving to a stronger spring?
Great info, but it would have been awesome if you had also talked about what buffers are used with what barrel lengths and gas port lengths.....pistol, carbine, mid-length, intermediate, and rifle.
The buffer spring is a 41 or 42 flat coil, I believe I'm using a standard mil spec buffer, barrel length is 16 inch with bird cage on the end, M4 feed ramps. The gas system is a mid length or carbine length, I have no clue as to the gas port size. But I'll bull the hand garden and gas tube and put the ol' calipers to work. When I get back to the house, I'll pull the buffer Out and I'll stick it on the Digitals and see what pops up. After I do all this, I will report back With the information I have collected. Oh yeah, I'll see what size of flat buffer spring I'm using and put that information on here to.
pretty simple with what he said. 32:35 Carbines (generally over gassed) H. 18" with rifle gas, either standard rifle or standard carbine (depending on stock). Rifle? Same. I'm running 18 on rifle gas with A2 stock. All mil spec. Lots of rounds with no failure. I"m going to shave some weight off of her. Adding carbine stock assy. My SPR is 11lbs with basics. Harris bipod, 4x12 scope, A2 barrel. A2 stock assy.
AR guys be like: what buffer should I use during winter months and which one during summer? AK guys be like: I just cleaned my AK with an garden hose, can I use a microwave to dry it?
That’s actually pretty funny, but AK guys would have the same problems if AKs were as popular as ARs, and there was as many aftermarket options and variations that changes how the gun operates.
@@7seasons31 There are more and more accessories being made for AKs, and every time someone fucks around with mechanics, they screw shit up. In Russia there is a heap of things.
Wait so I'm supposed to get my buffer information from well informed experts? No thanks. I'm going back to the forums, where information comes from where it really matters, fanboys.
Wranglerstar Missed you. Only just occurred to me that I haven’t seen any of your videos in my feed. Went to your channel to find I had been un-subscribed??? I didn’t do it.
DD sells their complete MK18s with an H buffer. I’d always heard H2. Edit. I believe SOCOM runs their MK18s with H2. You can run them with an H or H2. Preferably an H2 if you’re running suppressed.
You are in the turtle shell. In my travels (and misfortunes) I’ve spent a year and a half in those. Not at one time. It was over a long amount a time. I’m sorry about Your misfortune.
In addition I live in Fairbanks, AK where temperatures throughout the year range from -40 to 100F. Keeping my rifles functional throughout the year is challenging, this finally makes sense to me. Switched back to a lighter buffer and adjustable gas system to mitigate pressure changes due to environment or firing suppressed. Really helpful thank you.
Thank you for your thorough explanation. I was having premature wear in my upper. Added a tungsten weight to make the buffer an H2. Problem solved and ejection trajectory is perfect at 4:30.
Thanks. I generally prefer adjustable gas blocks on all my AR’s. I reload, and like to be able to tune them for my various loads, and seasons. Though it’s definitely an additional point of failure if you forgot what state of tune the AR is in, then try to take it to the range and it won’t cycle cause you tuned it down for a very soft load - and you forgot your adjustment tool at home. 🤦🏻♂️😂
With my limited knowledge, I would tend to go for a heavier buffer, but the goal overall is to get that 4:00 ejection imo. The lighter buffer will tend to give you closer to a 3:00 or even forward 2:00 ejections
I thoroughly enjoyed this highly informative and well organized presentation. You touched on the mechanics and emphasized that the firearm is a system designed to serve a specific purpose. I would like to see more videos of this type so I can expand my knowledge base to improve my future builds. Great video!!
Can you please explain this further? What do you mean by "novelty?" from my experience with the jp captured buffer system, it's been far more reliable, and consistent than your standard buffer system.
I've got a $400 rifle from PSA, nothin special When I shoot steel cased 55gr tula/wolf it seems just a lil over gassed with ejection around 2/230 o'clock When I run brass ammo like xm855 (62gr) and I'm guessing a little hotter it's way over gassed with ejection at 1 o'clock Any suggestions, I think some1 once told me to use a h1 or h2 wasn't sure if that would correct the issue
Thx Mike I got a msg that you had replied not sure why it isn't visible lol Appreciate the suggestion, I have ordered the weights and made an h1 and h2 tho ive been shoot the 6.5G of late haven't check out which I would need I'd say you are correct h should be plenty and I may use the h2 in a diff pistol build (x39)
Best on youtube. I have a question. I have a colt 6933 upper 11.5 commando. Im running an h2. Will i suffer in reliability. Also what if i go supressed?
Great video, with some invaluable information in my opinion. What is your take on buffer springs, specifically flat wire versus standard round wire. To my understanding you can get a longer life span out of a flat wire spring and it eliminates the “twang” commonly associated with a round wire buffer spring. However I have no experience with a flat wire spring & I am curious if in your experience you have found any reliability issues with a flat wire buffer spring in either semi-auto and auto firing?
Oh wow... I was just about to put a VLTOR A5 Spring & Buffer Kit into a build with an 18 inch rifle length gas system. I was under the impression that the A5 would be appropriate. You saved me some frustration. I'll use an H buffer system with carbine tube. For my 18 inch mid length barrels, what is the appropriate buffer weight?
That’s pretty simple, you need a very light buffer weigh for subsonic ammo. It’s not loaded very hot so it’s not going to be able to cycle the bolt if you have too much weight or too strong of a spring. If that’s what you are asking. But if you are using subsonic ammo most of the time then that will work to just set up your buffer and weight for subsonic ammo. It’s hard to tell you what to use because all of this is determined based upon what type of setup you have. Is it a carbine gas length, mid length, or rifle length. That drastically effects how certain ammo will cycle in the gun. The bigger the gun the bigger buffer weight and tube you need in order to slow the system down. The longer the barrel the more tube and weight is needed because it’s taking a lot longer for that gas to reach the gas tube because it’s much further down the barrel. If I may make a recommendation for what I have done, because who doesn’t like to use subsonic ammo on the range and with a suppressor ? It’s fun, it’s light, it’s kid friendly is you have kids and it’s like shooting a 22. If you are shooting subsonic ammo you can afford a good adjustable gas system which will allow you to shoot both with the simple turn or nob or a tool that comes with it.
I had no idea there are/were so many variations of buffers. Was issued the A1 and later the A2 back in the day. Never gave buffers any real thought other than it just being another part of the rifle we needed to have in good condition.
Congrats on another successful post, albeit 3 yrs. belatedly.. Of particular interest to me is the Italian 222 set up.. As I understand you, this means; 2 empty car buffers inserted into a car spring at each end, so that when inserted into the tube, the rear buffer's metal (Large) end will contact the rear of the tube. Assuming this is correct, what, if any, change need be made for function with a BRN-4 piston with light barrel, in your opinion?
Good video with lots of information. For the most part, I agree with your assessment about the rifles being designed as a system that works together. That said sometimes the aftermarket does come out with a better product which improves the function. I know of people that depend on their carbines that have changed things for the better and still have the reliability needed. I think the main thing is you understand how the system works, what the system needs to do and make sure it functions under all conditions with those changes. If you don't understand the system and how it works, don't mess with it. Also, with some law enforcement departments, they don't run military ammo so changes may be the right thing to do with that ammo.
The physics taking place during semi-auto fire... And full auto fire. Require components to be within weight specs. I have one hydraulic buffer, specifically timed with a long barreled target, AR. It permits me to watch holes appear on paper at 200 yards without my reticle leaving the x-ray on 20 power.. I consider that a neat trick by having tweet with the physics of how my rifle moves its bolt. Timing for extraction has been slowed. Travel distance is maximized for functionality on every shot. But the softness of the bolt movement allows sight through the magnified optic throughout the shot enabling, accurate follow-ups.. 😂 I just love the rocket science behind shooting sports. ❤ You have a lot of information bundled in one video!!!
@@richardlindquist5936 Some people have a hard time picking up on sarcasm. lol.. Some things just needs to be spelled out for them. Or, if that doesn't help, lots of pictures..
What about suppressor use? About to try a 5.5 and 6.5 oz in my 10.5” suppressed 556. Any suggestions or potential problems?? What about a 6.5 or 7.5oz in my 9mm 16” suppressed. Haven’t shot the 9 suppressed just yet so not sure if it will also be ejecting forward like the 556. Will gassing it properly make them eject properly at 3-4 o’clock with the original intended buffers??
My Colt 6920 has used the same H buffer for a decade in all weather conditions and has been outstanding. My Geissele Super Duty came from factory with a Super 42 spring and H2 buffer. Again, been outstanding in all weather the past 8 months I've had it. Which is better? No fuckin idea lol 100% is 100% any way you ook at it
Aero 18” barrel with a riffle length gas system? I’m looking for what buffer style I should go with? Carbine ? Riffle buffer ? And what weight ? Thank you
Hey! The first thing he said was colts been there done that and stick to what came in your rifle! Even if you didnt buy a colt, regardless of barrel length, gas port adjustment, just stop messing around with it your going to get yourself killed in the winter and or summer time lol. Dont worry tho his body armour will shield him from my sarcasm
What would you suggest for buffer weight for (AR-10 308lr) with collapsible buttstock with rifle gas system 24" bull barrel ( semi fire only) i currently have 49oz carbine buffer
Thank you for taking the time to go through the history and development of whatever you’re talking about. It gives one a deeper understanding of a topic. It’s interesting and really helpful. I really enjoy your videos. Plus I get to blame you when I spend money on better parts or anything HK when my wife asks.
Things get weird when you start building larger calibers with wicked recoil from the bcg slamming rearward. These buffers can be changed long as it’s correctly balanced with gas pressures, bcg weight, and buffer spring tension.
Good info it gave me lots of info I needed to determine what I need to do. Oh and one more thing invest in a mic that you can attach to your clothing and speak louder. You sounded like you were in the back of the room and didn't want to speak to loud because you didn't want someone to hear you.
@SmallArmsSolutions What would be the proper buffer for 300 blackout with 16 heavy barrel and carbine length gas tube and carbine buffer tube? I thought maybe a standard H buffer but after this I'm not sure. Thanks in advance.
Instead of directing this video to the citizens of the U.S. of A you are talking to the only people who are being and/or will be used against those who the right of bear arms shall not be infringed is for. Great disservice to the community! Bravo You!
@@SmallArmsSolutions LOL! Playing stupid won't work here. You've said it at 0:57 of this video. For many of You guys who are Law enforcement and Military ...what? forgot about that? maybe You should watch Larken Rose "When should You sh00t a cop" video to understand, unless You are one of them...pig
I'm listening to the part about the hydraulic buffer and wondering why they wouldn't simplify it with a die spring? If you're Colt and you can order springs by the tens of thousands, you could get a variable rate spring that would have the same resistance profile as the hydraulic?
Yeah, well, when I added a suppressor, it didn't run anymore, or on another rifle, i would have a three - or four round round burst induced. Increasing the buffer weight solved this issue with and without the suppressor attached.
I understand buffer tubes or receiver extensions as this gentleman puts it. However I do not agree with or maybe I don’t fully understand the weight of the barrel causing BCG bounce. It was always taught to me that it has to be a balance with buffers to allow as light as possible recoil but also heavy enough to close the bolt. Now basically it has to act like a dead blow hammer so you don’t have bounce. But the weight of the barrel has very little to do with the act of a gas system driving the bolt back and cycling another round.
Heavier buffers are a band-aid for an overgassed weapon. They come overgassed for a reason-increased cycling reliability from a problematic tight tolerance design succeptable to failure from minimal debris. If at all possible, add an adjustable gas block to tune yours into a soft shooter.
Colt as a defense of “my way or highway “ is ignorant…colt has went bankrupt how many times? Colt has failed to be able to keep up with firearm evolutions on any level. Truth be told the only way to ensure your rifle/pistol functions as it should is to test it yourself. Quality control from colt alone could make plenty fail…
I am about to throw a 9mm buffer and enhanced spring into a mid length pencil barrel 5.56 build. Sue me. This rifle spits out brass at 1:00 on an h2 buffer.
Good information of course within the parameters of 5.56 chambered rifles and carbines produced by colt and you also include the 9x19 guns. You go into full autoguns that us civilians can not freely buy or possess and so bolt bounce is not such an issue. Today us civilians typically buy an upper, that in my case are often pistol length and will be in other chamberings like 300 AAC, 7.62x39, 6.5G, etc. The gas port hole drilled in the barrel may also vary according to what the maker thinks is best. Typical example: The first 7.62x39 gun that I assembled using a 16 inch barrel upper and a rifle length buffer set up had functioning problems until I added 3 tungsten wt to the rifle length buffer. The first rifle buffer was a very old surplus part that I purchased in the 90's. First the elastic polymer thingy on it disintegrated with age having something to do with it. when I added the tungsten wts magazine feeding from the magazine become perfect, but the front of the buffer got punched out. I purchased a new one and all is good. Reason for 7.62x39 is that I have a lot of it and it is cheap. I also happen to like the round. Of course I had to get a longer firing pin also for it to work. With some mags it does not lock open, but being an AK person that does not brother me so much. Also I can not think of many problems where the load of a 20 or 30 magazine will not solve it. The point is when assembling a gun on your own, some experimentation is needed with that applying specifically to buffers. You do make a good point about low temperatures. I have never seen below 15 F in my part of Northwest Florida. If it is real cold, maybe I should use the AK or G3 since i know those will work. Below 0 F is brutal for sure.
fantastic video and thanks for sharing so much of your knowledge. I can sit back and watch your channel and old gunblue490 all night and always learn one (or ten) things new every time. Great work and hope this channel continues to grow by leaps and bounds!
I have a Barrel Length: 10.5" Barrel Profile: A2 Gas System: Carbine-length Barrel Steel: 4150V Chrome Moly Vanadium And a aero precision m4e1 carbine complete lower Which buffer is the best choice?
I dont understand how the thickness of a barrel has anything to do with what buffer weight to use. I could have a 1 foot thick barrel or a thin barrel and aside from weight and heat absorption differences the actual pressure should be the same. What am I missing here?
I am building a lower receiver for a 24in. Fluted heavy barrel 6.5 Grendel with a rifle length gas system. Do I need a rifle length buffer or if I can use a carbine length buffer what weight should I use? Thank you for any info on this. PS. If you know anything and out magazines for the 6.5 Grendel can I use a 5.56 mag with some sort of modification or do I have to get Grendel mags.
Ok, so I assume that you already did whatever you were going to do, but the rifle buffer is basically used in fixed rifle length stocks (like M16A1 or M16A2). A carbine buffer is generally used for collapsible stocks (like M4). As an example, my 24” 6.5 Grendel has a Magpul PRS stock and a rifle buffer. Buffer weight depends on the gas port. More gas = more buffer weight to achieve the same bolt velocity. The weight of my buffer with the Alexander Arms 24” Grendel upper is 5.1 oz. I don’t remember where it ejects, so I don’t have a good sense of whether it is over gassed. For magazines, PMAGs are bulged out to the point that they are hard to insert into the magazine well with more than about 4 rounds. The stainless 6.5 Grendel mags work well. I would buy the specific magazines if you want to fire more than a few shots. If you are going to be mostly shooting from a bench, the under 20 round magazines fit better.
How about a buffer recommendation on a Windham Weaponry R16M4A4T (16") with a Fostech Echo AR-II binary trigger with a Tubb's SS flat wire spring? I'd appreciate yours or anyone's thoughts on this
I just purchased a rifle and it consistently fails to feed. 16” a2 profile barrel with mid length gas system and standard carbine buffer do I need an h buffer or do I need to take a steel weight out of the standard one?
Hey bud. Honestly, I do not think that problem your having has anything to do with the buffer or buffer spring. I coud be wrong, but I doubt its the buffer. It sounds like maybe your having magazine problems. Thats what I would think. Try some different magazines if you have not already. If you are still having issues, check your feed ramps. make sure they are smooth with no obstructions. Some cheaper companies do not polish these smooth well enough, so some have lips on them which can cause failures to feed. This is just my observation based on what I have learned over the years. I hope it helps. I am no professional, by far. Best of luck to you and your firearm!
You have a mag or feed ramp problem. Follow the advice listed above. Standard carbine buffer is the minimum. Never go below that. Also, invest in a better spring if need be.
Nice to see you back on here! I hope you can make good use with my rifle soon. :) Edit: Also, if you can answer this for me, I am planning on building a 20" barreled upper AR but it's going to be on a carbine length buffer tube, similar to like the Canadian C7s. What buffer weight would you recommend? The barrel profile is basically a pencil profile.
What about a 14.5" lightweight barrel with carbine length gas system, using a lightweight BCG, that is sometimes suppressed? Everyone would just tell me to change springs and buffers, but I wondered if an adjustable gas block wouldn't be part of the solution.
It will solve you issues but tak no on what kind on ammunition you get it run 100% with cause thats generally what your stuck using if its one of those million and a half gas setting blocks. Had to go that route for my ar10
Thank you for the history lesson! Very cool info. Maybe you can do your next vid on what buffers with what has length, barrel length etc. it would be really nice to see a video like this one going into the mechanics of it all together. 👍
I have the "embarrassment" buffer in my colt, I'd like to replace it, is the standard rifle buffer what I should replace it with? Any advice is appreciated.
Love the video, could you do one on AR10/308. In the past we just had rufle tube and stocks but in the last few years a lot more adjusable stocks with carbine tubes which seem to create a whole new monster regarding springs, buffers, adj gas blocks etc. Thanks
I have a question. I have a parts AR-15 carbine that always light strikes on the second round. It has a standard buffer that weighs 2.9 oz. Would going with a heavier buffer possibly fix this?
Good info. Have always used STD or H1 on AR builds but didn’t know why. Agree with Mark D below, learning the finer points is the difference between a great build and one that just runs.
