The Climbing Iceberg V0 → V7 Explained

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In this video, I share the 4 fundamental keys that most amateur climbers don't know how to apply correctly. These insights have been crucial in my climbing journey, and I believe they can help you too.
Stay until the end for a special free resource to help you apply these concepts and improve your climbing skills.
Free Assessment: drive.google.c...
Related Videos:
• How I went from V4 to ...
• My Science Based Climb...
Timestamps:
0:00 - Limiting Reactant
3:20 - Surface
4:55 - Proof
6:40 - Big Mistake
7:10 - Common Mistakes
8:29 - Why you can't Apply Technique
10:40 - The Most Important Part
TestPiece's Podcast with Sean Bailey: • Sean Bailey's Thoughts...
Dave MacLeod's Video: • Is this the most commo...
Instagram: / crispycrimpsclimbing
Disclaimer: This video is for educational purposes only. Any information shared is based on personal experiences and research.
Song: Lotus Sky Dreams
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Опубликовано:

14 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 93

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Hey guys sorry for the pale, expressionless face through out the video. I had food poisioning 2 days before I filmed this, I didnt want to keep on waiting to make the video so ended up just going with it. But if you are interested in a quick way to lose 5kg in 2 days I can certanly recomend eating fish in a dodgy place 😁

@rrrents Месяц назад

Came for climbing, stayed for diet tips!

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

@@rrrents Lol! Follow at your own peril

@matthewsevers5862 16 дней назад

I should be climbing around V7, but have climbed V10. Have been climbing for a total of 10+ years. When I was climbing consistent V7 outdoors, I could max hang about 110% BW on BM 1000 outside edges. I started hangboarding during Covid and improved to 130% which is approx. where I am now. Have climbed several outdoor V10s, but generally will send V8 in about 20-30 min of work. I learned improving finger strength is extremely helpful when you’re at the bottom of the range which is where I am. If you’re in the middle or above there are probably other weaknesses to spend time and energy on which will have a larger impact on your overall climbing.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 14 дней назад

Yeah! You're 100% spot on, it would be great to have stats like a video game and it would be obvious to see that we have a low rating on X skill to work on, and when ever you are at the lowest part of a range on anything that usually where you can get the easiest gains

@zaplifire6435 Месяц назад

4:15 that heel hook made me laugh

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Lol yeah, used to happen all the time 🤣

@Larderer Месяц назад

Can barely hold my own weight for 7 secs on a Beastmaker 20mm edge with both hands, climbing V6 and projecting V7. I think finger strength is definitely a weakness, but in the end I think footwork and flexibility is what truly holds me back. Very good video! I agree with all of your points throughout!

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

I'm the same way, I can hang on 20mm but my hands tremble. I used to be much stronger but have put off finger training for about 3 years, I would love to get back into it but with the starts I mentioned in this video

@dmitriydrozdov1035 Месяц назад

I feel like finger strength is my main weakness. I cannot hold myself on 20mm edge at all. Max 1-2 seconds if I am fully warmed up and have a perfect conditions. Although I only climb at around v4 (sometimes v5 on slab). Flexibility is definitely in the list there as well, however it is improving quite a lot. I started deliberately working on it after just a month of climbing and now it is not as bad as it used to be.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

As long as you put in the time there is always results, thats the best way to keep on going

@henrikblomqvist720 28 дней назад

Thats really good though. I can hold my weight on a 20mm edge for about 4 sec with my right hand and only 1-2 sec with my left. Despite that im still climbing v7-v8 so i think u definitely got the finger strenght

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 28 дней назад

@@henrikblomqvist720 of course it always depends on the boulder but I'm with you! Most people can do more than they think

@BoulderingHighlights Месяц назад

The Last one is crazy accurate and Important! Make sure to watch all the way! Its tough to convey these concepts in a wholistic, calm not preachy way. You share it quite well well done Crispy crimps looking forward to more stuff from this channel

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Thanks man! One of the reasons I learned all this stuff is by watching your highlight videos 🤣

@BoulderingHighlights Месяц назад

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing haha

@joaquinjaraberon7615 Месяц назад

Qué bueno encontrar un canal de un compatriota compartiendo conocimiento de este hermoso deporte (: Buenísimo el video, seguí metiendolé! Un Abrazo

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 29 дней назад

Gracias Joaco! Voy a seguir dandole para adelante 😁

@michelepa87 18 дней назад

Interesting take, and I can somehow relate to that. What I have been doing recently to mitigate that is to purposely try my hard projects when I am relatively fatigued. This way my intention is to learn and optimize the moves. This has helped me to keep progressing even if my strength levels might be above the grade.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 17 дней назад

Yeah I've done that on specific moves or if I'm projecting, the thing about that is not over doing it. Also being able to focus on optimal technique always and not just when you are tired is a good skill to develop, I still think I'm a long way from being there but keep on trying

@Thereal619kieron Месяц назад

Another banger vid!

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Thanks man! Trying my best, in a few weeks there's gonna be a string of incredible ones!

@Thereal619kieron Месяц назад

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I’m looking forward to it!

@GamerFigure 9 дней назад

the problem i face currently is that i'm fairly certain my gym is just super crimpy therefore my lack on finger strength is an unavoidable bottleneck. Switching gyms isn't an option as the next closest one is 20 more minutes and i already drive 40.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 9 дней назад

I see, if that's the case try to go for slow finger gains and focus a lot in driving tension through the feet, it will make your body lighter on your fingers. If you combine this (don't get injured) you should see improvement but I understand the frustration. I personally don't spend that much time on crimps and would be scared for my fingers if that's the only thing that would be available. Also, who knows but maybe ask the staff if that can make more slopper problems, every gym should have a balance

@bonibroco1076 Месяц назад

Nice video! Great to see your channel growing 💪

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Thanks man! I'll keep on trying my best 😁

@notsotallawalla 17 дней назад

anyone have a link to the explanation for the assessment? Not sure how I'm meant to fill it out. thx

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 17 дней назад

Hi! It's in the description, it's a Google doc you can print or modify so you can see your weakness and biases

@midazolam78 21 день назад

muchas gracias por compartir tus conocimientos. escalo hace años pero mi unico propósito fue lograr el TOP. La filosofía de la escalada no me interesé nunca en estes años y por eso me quedé en el nivel V4. Eso se cambió hace 8 meses y pico y ahora puedo escalar V6-V7. hoy por ejemplo hice mis primeros dynos. En tu video hablas exactamente sobre estas cosas que para mi significan la filosofía de la escalada. Gracias. Mi español es de nivel B1, espero que tu puedes entender mi mensaje. Un abrazo desde Hamburgo, Alex

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 20 дней назад

Hola Alex! Tu español es muy bueno, si no me decias que tu nivel era B1 asumia que vivias en españa ya que la forma de hablar es un poco distinta a argentina. Yo estaba en la misma posicion que vos y creo que este cambio de mentalidad me ayudo mucho a desbloquear una nueva forma de ver el mundo. Que bueno que a vos tambien te haya resultado positivo, un abrazo desde Tokyo!

@roman4692 Месяц назад

climbing v7 with 140% bw so pretty spot on, for me personally it always feels like if i don't have a dedicated fingerboard routine in my plan i suffer from more injurys than with one. that's most likely due to the fact that i would go climbing instead 😂 and also a bigger climber so my fingers need some special love.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Great to see you are spot on for your grade! That means that with just some dedicated movement practice you can easily break into new grades, keep it up man 😁

@roman4692 Месяц назад

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing in my opinion consistency is key in climbing progression. but not "normal consistency" like climbing only v4. Rather progressivly overload consistency (in different aspects e.g. technique, power, (finger) strength) will make you break that plateau over time. unfortunately every time i felt like breaking into the v8&v9 range a injury happend but good news the v6-v7 range felt easier every time.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

@@roman4692 Yeah I know what you mean my friend, I feel the same way. The good thing, as you say, is there's many ways to view progress. As long as something is moving forward you are always improving!

@BiggieChungulus Месяц назад

If you don't mind me asking how much do you weigh?

@roman4692 Месяц назад

@@BiggieChungulus if you asking me: ~189cm/88kg

@BenjisBees Месяц назад

Nice video :D

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Thanks Benji! The next one will be the warm up one, just like you wanted

@Djdavidnyan Месяц назад

Great video! thanks for the tips, it is definitely a much healthier and long term driven approach to climbing! Will take into consideration

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

I think you just hit the mark with your comment, once you change from short term to long term I think it allows you to improve a lot more. You can clearly see that small gains can accumulate and instead of just focusing on hitting the next project you can address other stuff that in the long run will make you a much better climber

@jjschultzmd Месяц назад

Great video! Keep up the great work!

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Thanks! I'll keep them coming 😁

@CollinGill7 27 дней назад

great vid :)

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 27 дней назад

Glad you enjoyed it, trying my best to make it fun 😁

@CollinGill7 25 дней назад

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing really good information in an entertaining format! during my session today i thought about multiple topics from the vid

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 20 дней назад

Thanks Collin, I'll keep them coming!

@JPsk8core Месяц назад

I fully agree with everything you say in this video, 10/10

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Thanks for your comment! Anything you would add to it?

@nachtigaller Месяц назад

Great video ❤

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Thanks!!

@K_w__g____o Месяц назад

Enjoy your videos so much!

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Thank you! I will keep on trying hard to make more 😁

@santosvella Месяц назад

Playing music over your echoey voice is quite distracting.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Thanks for the tip my friend, noted for the next one!

@TheMsteak Месяц назад

I can barely hang 100% on 20mm, but i recently sent my first v5 (6c). I think strength might be handy in my case, but the working the shoulders really helped me. Great vid dude!

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Yeah! Shoulders are incredible, I feel that they are the "Upper Body Hips". If you dont feel solid on them its hard to do much. Congrats on the V5! I do think that especially on lower grades people are way stronger than what what they need to be but its kind of bound to be that way since they have the least exposure to good technique. But all comes in time if you go at it!

@max.pedals8060 25 дней назад

I can hang 200% body weight, I climb V9 and looks like I have the finger strength to climb V14-V15 I have found that finger strength is very rarely a limiting factor for me… that being said I still have not touched a hang board or campus board, just constantly working my technique with on the wall drills.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 22 дня назад

Damn, you're pretty strong my friend. I think there's a lot of people that naturally tend to go to a style maybe yours is pretty fingery and thats how you got so strong. What drills do you do?

@max.pedals8060 19 дней назад

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I primarily moonboard (2016 set). That’s probably the source of my finger strength gains. Within the past 2 years I’ve pretty much just been doing limit bouldering sessions 3 days a week. I used to do lots of flagging drills and lock-off or even campus work. Recently I’ve been finding a lacking of my endurance so I started doing 4x4’s on mid-grade boulders (for me that’s around V5).

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 16 дней назад

Nice! Sounds like you're in the groove and know what to aim for. I would love to try the moon board, I've never been on it yet but I'm always scared for my finger 😂

@nm-ue9oi 23 дня назад

33% bw on 20mm with 3 pulley strains. BW on 12mm with 3 pulley strains and 2 more flexor strains. Taking time off now, but I was climbing V7s outside. Don't think it's good to use inside grades since I can climb V8/9 in some gyms... I think most people who "can't hang BW" are using indoor grades because there is no way you are touching an outside crimpfest V5/6 lol

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 20 дней назад

I get where you're coming from, I think outdoor styles depend a lot where you live. Where I live now is mainly really small edges which is what I find the hardest, but in other outdoor spots there's sloppers or pockets, or just bif moves of of sharper but bigger holds. I would love to sometime get the chance to travel and get to know more outdoor stuff since to be honest I havent done much

@nm-ue9oi 20 дней назад

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Good point. I've only climbed in the northeast and one place on the west coast so I don't have too much experience. In the Northeast, It's almost entirely small crimps while out west (Berkeley, CA), it was bigger holds with bad feet and awkward moves

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 16 дней назад

Yeah for sure there are common elements to all styles of climbing but in a sport as varied as climbing its really hard to just say you only need to have finger strength. I would love to tour the world and learn a ton of different styles, maybe in the future 🙏

@SamJulius-sy8nw Месяц назад

You talked about reactions and what you need, so I was wondering if you had any tips for getting talker? Jk great video.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Lol! Thats for your comment ☺

@remo5883 День назад

Im that one dude in v5 who cant hang on a 20mm edge

@remo5883 День назад

Been climbing 6 months and 80kg can do 1 chin up :D

@marcosbarcala6249 Месяц назад

we want drills!! XD

@marcdaniellecastro6496 9 дней назад

Lower the background music Abit

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 8 дней назад

Thank you! I've learned from this and the newest video has better audio quality I think, I a bit weak of hearing so I dont notice as much

@BiggieChungulus Месяц назад

So the problem with the grade v relative strength data is it doesn't factor weight.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

Hey BiggieChungulus 🤣 It does! If you look at the Y axis it says Percentage Bodyweight

@BiggieChungulus Месяц назад

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbingthats a ratio, it doesnt factor in the difference between a 100lbs person pulling 200lbs vs a 200lbs person pulling 250lbs.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

@@BiggieChungulus isn't it based off of the % weight you can pull? Wouldn't that make it take weight into account? I'm not great at maths so don't take my word for that last part, it just how I understand it. If it's wrong please correct me and explain so I learn 😁

@BiggieChungulus Месяц назад

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbingwell it could explain why some people climb v11 at ~130% vs some people at ~220%. It would be safe to assume bigger people have less relative strength. Don't get me wrong, I believe climbing is a democraric sport and that every body type (that is reasonably low in bodyfat) is viable. I also agree most climbers especially in the v6-v8 range are stronger than their grade. I just believe the relative vs absolute strength distinction is a missing nuance here.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 27 дней назад

Ohh now I see what you mean, yeah thats true. I think like you climbing is one of the "fairest" sports, since many different skills are used maybe someone who isnt as strong might be way more flexible and get the top. Having said that it's true that the only way i think climbing does favor a certain body type is usually on the weight aspect. But most people arent climbing for a living and thair true rival is their past self so I dont think its as important as just improving. Nice point I didnt even stop to think about, thanks for bringing it up 😁

@amadeogamboa7457 Месяц назад

Ok, ok, I have strong finger strength, yes, but my finger endurance is 0. I only ever have one hard climb in me (V4). I'll concede that my technique is probably also severely lacking.

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

The good thing about being strong is that any improvement you do in technique is 10 fold, the bad thing is that you can default to that style of climbing very easily so its hard to control yourself and improve. Technique will give you more endurance since every individual move takes less out of you and that will compound session over session 😁

@ryanfitzalan8634 Месяц назад

climbing V5 with only about 75% body weight.....not sure what that means except maybe finger strength IS my problem

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

You are a Gem, my friend! With a little bit of consistent training you can keep your movement abilities improving while gaining strength at a solid pace

@ryanfitzalan8634 Месяц назад

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing thanks! Only problem is my body weight is 185# of muscle, so it may take some harder finger strength training to work on that % body weight number. At 100% my fingers need to take the weight of many other people 125%. I feel like the weight factor isn’t spoke about much in these conversations, yet it has real influence on outcome

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

@@ryanfitzalan8634 Take it slow, your journey is yours alone. As long as you keep on improving a bit on strength and keep climbing like you have I don't see why you couldn't break into V6 soon! Lower grades especially need much less finger strength than most people think

@Username-so3yj Месяц назад

180% body weight climbing V8/V9. Should be climbing v12ish

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Месяц назад

I wouldnt take it like the only truth but I do think there is clearly some correlation. Also if you think about it the people that this can benefit the most is beginners since they get strong fast but their movement skills lag behind. Keep on crushing it man!