This is part 1 of my journey along the coast to coast walk from St.Bees to Keld (continued in part 2). Starting on the 31st May 2024 and taking 10 days to complete in total…
I have hiked this route twice in the past, first was my West to East crossing a few weeks befor joiing the Army in 1977 and later after I left the Army in 1980 I returned to do a East to West crossing. I loved every step of the Hike and I now spend my retirement watching others hike it and pass on my memories of doing it 40+ years ago. I started at about 6am and hiked to Ennerdales Black Sail YHA on the first day. Boy oh boy was that a steep climb up and over Dent. After a quick Pint in the Pub at the end of the Ennerdale Water I carried on to Black Sail YHA. Wow the scenery was like nothing I had seen before and it was so quiet, just the gurgleing of the streams that I passed. On my first West to East crossing I too followed the left hand bank of Ennerdale Water. On my second crossing a few years later I opted for the Right hand side of the Valley. I found that so much more enjoyable. Tony the Retired Hiker in Essex.
WOW £30 a night in the YHA at Ennerdale, I paid £1.75 at Black Sail but that was a long time ago and it include Bed for the night, Evening Meal, Breakfast and they refilled my 3 litre Coffee Flask for £1.50. There were no stone steps leading out of Ennerdale when I did the route and yes its an improvement and will help to stop the errosion of the soil via the protection agains the hundreds if not thousands of passing hikers who use the route every year. Tony the Retired Hiker in Essex.
Day 9 saw me in the middle of the North Yorkshire Moors mid way between the Mount Grace Priory and the Red Lion near Glaisdale Moor so at the end of the Day I looked forward to a pint or two at the Red Lion ... I did eventually get those drinks and after a sound night sleep I set off for Graisdale, Egton Bridge, and finally arrived at Gromont for a day of rest on the Yorkshire Moors Railway reliving my teenage years as a fan of Steam Trains.
Day two for me was a short stroll over the top of Honister Pass, a gentle stroll down by the stream/river, through the village to end my short day at Stonetwaite Campsite, I nice quiet site I have returned to every now and again to recharge my Memory banks of the Peace and Quiet of Borrowdale Valley. Tony the Retired Hiker in Essex.
Day 9 Left the Blue Boar Pub (approx 8am after my morning Coffee) and climbed up and over the first hill towards Mount Grace Priory before going onto The Yorkshire Moors, up hill and down Dale was what I thought at the time, but at least is was warm and sunny (Mid July when I did it) heading for the Roseberry Crossing a disused Rail Line to the Iron Ore Mines in the middle of nowhere, a slight breeze kemp me cool for most of the day.
Day 10 saw a very steep 1 in 6 hill to climb out from the Rail Station at Gromont before taking a nice easy pace passed the Waterfall in the woods then onto the Coastal Path into Hawsker and the final few miles along the Cliffs facing the North Sea and to finally end the Hike at down at the beach at Robin Hoods Bay. Would I do it again..... yes a few years later , BUT this time in an East to West direction just as I had previously done with the Original South to North Pennine Way and then a follow up route one year later of North to South Pennine Way. I enjoy recapturing my youth with your crossing of the Coast to Coast and wish you well with any future Hikes you have planned. Tony the Retired Hiker of Long Distance Paths of the UK.
Day 4 for me was up and Helvellyn just because it was there then onto Mardale Common via Patterdale and High Street, then along the Haweswater Resv to Shap Abbey before heading of to Shap for a nights camp in the Pubs Garden.
Really enjoyed the video Some great photographs, i specially enjoyed those around Shap,. Also congratulations on NOT saying you're in the Yorkshire Dales when you crossed over the M6 lol. Look forward to watching the next video 👍
Day 8 Left Richmond and headed East stopping btiefly at Brompton on Swale to visit the Churchyard to view the Gravesite of a man reputed to be 150 yrs old (there used to be a brief history of his life in the Church Doorway, but I do not know if that is still there) The next day all I had in mind was the next 20 mile via a road walk (NO Footpaths open in that area at that time 1976) to the Pub at Danby Wiske forr y overnight camp behind the Blue Boar Pub.
Day 7 I opted for the High Level route to Richmond rather than the river walk and in the heat of the day I enjoyed the breeze I got which would not have been there if I opted for the River side hike. Overnight stay in a B&B in Richmond cost me £5. That was the end of my first week with another possible5 to 7 more days left.
Day 5 Left Shap crossed over the rail line then off across the Moors to Orton in the rain. Then onwards towards Smardale Viaduct then a nights B&B in Kirby Stephens.
Day 6 Kirkby Stephens to Keld via a very steep climb up past the Nine Standards (which I remember from my Pennine Way Hile) and the loverly stoll down into Keld for an overnight on the campsite (Single tent so that cost me 75p)
Hi, Tony, I was just watching this video again and noticed your comments. Though the trail is pretty much the same as it was when you did it, the prices certainly aren't 😅. Still, as you know, it's a fantastic walk and creates some wonderful memories.
I doubt that mobile reception is good for any carrier once you pass the end of Ennerdale Water - apart from the 2 YHAs there are probably no more than 6 or 7 farms up the valley - not worth the investment in the infrastructure. Really enjoying the videos, reliving when I walked the route in 23.
