Transforming an ordinary budget recurve or longbow into a masterpiece you can be proud of is super easy and fun! Here’s one that is nothing short of amazing and truly one of a kind!
Hi, Jeff. This was a GREAT, fun project that produced marvelous results. The only thing missing in your solid explanation of the process was perhaps a series of video clips of the various elements of the "remodeling": shaping the grip, narrowing the lower limb, using the spray paint, etc. Would it make any sense for you to someday do a step-by-step "how-to" video on upgrading an inexpensive bow? I would certainly watch it, even though I've seen this footage. One thought As you point out, you're an experienced bowyer. But many people may find it difficult to control the drill-and-rotary-disk setup you describe. Digs and dings can happen in an instant. I personally think the hand-sanding you also endorse is a far "safer" way to go, especially on the edges of the limb(s). Gluing a piece of sandpaper onto, say, a 3" x 6" block of wood and using that will, I believe, result in far straighter edges-even though it'll take longer than the powered option. Just a thought, Still hoping to see the Sanllida Hermit X10 with the 62" limbs! Best, Chris (in Maine).
I agree Jeff, show what it is you did to lower poundage and adjust tiller for 3 fingers. There are those of us that need to see what you do, lol. I know one thing for sure, I love the X8, among many others, and would love to do something like this, but PLEASE, show us! Love ya man, from Ga, John
It would be cool to see before/after photos of the edges you redid to change the tiller. What you describe sounds like I should be doing that to my recurve, since I shoot with a fixed crawl and the bow doesn‘t like that. I‘m afraid of ruining the tiller though, by removing to much material on the edges. Great and very informative video!
I reworked mine maybe 6 or so weeks prior to this vid drop. I found that the bow is more accurate, is much quieter, may be a tad faster, and the arrows hit MUCH harder with more penetration. I believe it's all due to the limbs are now working with each other, instead of being out of sync. My 2 cents.
The sanding wheels are probably really to aggressive for reducing limb weight. Just use sandpaper on a flexible sanding block and sand the belly side of the limbs. Keep checking the tiller on both limbs to make sure it doesn't change. Don't sand the sides of the limbs. Make sure to slightly round over the edge where the belly meets the sides so you don't raise any glass splinters when pulling back. Good luck, go slow.
Black Magic or Black Mamba. Those Harbor Freight sanding drums are the real deal. But, for working on bows, I really like their oscillating drum/belt sander. I’ve been contemplating dropping the weight on my sanlida longbow.
Awesome video Jeff! Could you please provide a little more detail on how to adjust the tiller? When you say you work the edges do you mean that you work the left and right side of each limb separately or do you try to sand it as even across the flat of the belly as possible? Also, how much of the lower limb belly do you work to even the tiller, as in from how close to the grip to how far down? Thanks again Jeff!
Interesting. 500 with 300 grains on the front from an almost 45-pound bow. My new longbow of 42 pounds threw them almost sideways with 125 grains point and 12 grains insert. How you can shoot so weak arrow from this bow is unbelievable for me. Nice video, though.
some people say jeff is bought by Salida archery i say do you go to work and some one pays you..i say your bought too🙂 but phillips does shoot tiny buck deer😋
@@dpulineman The limb tips, if they’re overlaid with glass, micarta, G10 or anything like that you can run fast flight otherwise go with a B55,Flemish 👍🏻
Can you do a video on the release, you probably have but I am battling string slap or my fingers getting my face. Switched to 3 fingers under and just can’t seem to get a clean release. Thanks and God Bless
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Thanks for clarifying. I've got a bow with too much brand graphics on the limbs...so I bought some Duplicolor. I even called Rust-oleum while in Home Depot to make sure my dark gray color paint was an enamel, turns out it was acrylic enamel just like the Duplicolor clear matte wheel paint...I don't think it'd work on top of lacquer...I really appreciate you making this video.
I have the Hermin Salinda X 10 ILF recurve bow. If I shoot split finger, what tiller should I put on the top limb if I have average size hands? I thought 1/8 was standard and not 1/2 inch Also, if I put on a Nap elevated rest, what positive should I put on the top limb for split fingers. Thanks an million. Ray
Great video and I love my hermit x10, and my question is where did you get the black leather selway quiver from? Selway archery’s web site says they sold out the quiver portion of the business. Thanks
@@C4Carriger I’m not sure about that but I see them at most every major event, i had this one made while we were at the Tennessee Classic, I know they’re going to ETAR
@@C4Carriger Eastern Traditional Archery Rendezvous, the largest gathering in the country, it’s in late July in Pennsylvania with over 5000 shooters and the most vendors anywhere!
Hey bud sweet set up ,the only issue I have with mine original string was way to long so I put on 54" to meet brace hieght. I have no issues since new string I was wondering if any one had same issue and do have a website or contact info
Is there hat considered a low , standard or medium grip? I have Tbow riser and the grip is an issue!!! I’ve got the bow shooting great but think a new grip would make a world of difference. I have the x8 bow in this video and prefer the grip 1000%. If I bought after market grip is the Jager the grip to go with?
It looks like your top loop it's a bit wide... A bit smaller loop will be safer and will quiet your string even more. Just my impression and I'm sure you know better. I love your vids they are most helpful.
That's a false and inaccurate statement. I tested this theory when I started making my own strings. A smaller loop had no effect on sound. The material, strand count, silencer placement, and tiller are what matter.
@@jblanla yes and the what’s weird is they use a very soft D97 material that to me is like Brownell definitely way softer than BCY Fastflight but I’ve tried everything on them and the TTT B55 is the best feeling of all.
