The Real COST of BIGGER Tyres Join this channel to get access to perks: / @ronny_dahl Thanks for watching and Please Subscribe: / ronbacardi666 MERCH HERE below the videos Find us at the links below: Website: www.4-wheeling...
Wow, the production quality going into these videos in getting insane. Nice work Ronny (and everyone behind the scenes). And as always, top notch advice. I run 31.5 Ko2s on my daily for all the reasons you mentioned. No extra costs, no headaches or reliability issues, and they still work off road when I need them to. Just switching the stock road tyres to decent A/Ts makes a world of difference without changing anything else.
- yep going 31.5" (17" rims)- just brings a 4wd ute up to design specs. (I'm still wearing out a set of 29"s (AT) on 16" rims, I got with my ute - they still work, save the better set for trips. - eventually throw some more mud oriented tyres on the 16"s)
Wow, the production quality going into these videos in getting insane. Nice work Ronny (and everyone behind the scenes). And as always, top notch advice. I run 31.5 Ko2s on my daily for all the reasons you mentioned. No extra costs, no headaches or reliability issues, and they still work off road when I need them to. Just switching the stock road tyres to decent A/Ts makes a world of difference without changing anything else.
Still very much enjoy and look forward to your next video. I started watching you 8 years ago, figured it was cheaper watching you than actually do it, well turns out you gave me the bug for off road! héhé! Bought a 2016 4x4 gmc canyon (1/4 ton) 2,8 diesel took me 2.5 years to desired state, 3'' lift and suspension upgrade, 33'' mud tires, steel back and front bumpers and completely boxed frame with skid plates and 15500lbs winch, aluminium cab that i made all the electrical set up (isolator, 2nd battery, distribution...) it was a way of life for 5 years until I got crank bearing issue, started a year and a half nightmare ended up loosing lots of $$$ now its behind me but do not regret the incredible experience it was and these amazing places we visited that would not have been accessible otherwise, cheers Ronnie!🍻
yaaa... I went through that... *oof* it was very exspensive upgrade to delete and modify stock 17" brakes to a race type system from abs. I ended up with stainless braided line ptfe after my third try of converting modern brakes to carburetor era style brakes with dual piston stock brakes. took 2years to sort out with professional help because of reverse engineering systems and merging old designs.
Went from 29.6 to 31.6 inch tyres on my 2010 dmax. After adjusting for the tyre size in the fuel calculations. I use around 0.2 to 0.5L /100km more. So well and truly worth it. Also fit with no lift of trimming required.
265/70/R17 Maxxis Razor AT, P12 rims , 40 mm lift , airbag man also fitted to my 2023 fortuner gxl . The car went some of the places that i though no way we could get theres . Towing camper nearly 2 tons to get to off grid was abit nervous but we got there. That just show do you really need big massive tyres .
Wil my experience I find that 32 and 33 inch tires tend to be the preferred rand for many vehicles when it comes down to Touring and most 4WD situations. Pair that with the right suspension and you are pretty much set. Even some vehicles like.my 1993 WD21 have no problems doing most things with Factory 31's. I guess it really comes down to what you do and what you need for what to get.
@@Jacobtheunwise has nothing to do with where you live, but where you travel when you think about it. Yes I am in Colorado, but if I travel to another state then it's going to matter more for the state I travel in vs where I live
My manual px2 ranger was not as good to drive once I put on 33’s with new rims so I got the front and rear diffs from an auto ranger and that got it back close to stock gearing, pretty good! However, while I had that new rear axle out I couldn’t help but put on rear disc brakes and, because I had a rear axle from a px3 ranger, I had to get a patch cable to get the factory rear locker to work, all good still. While I was changing that front diff I couldn’t live without an elocker in there and that got me to a new switch panel in the interior, nice! Of course I couldn’t have it without a 2/12 inch lift and that really works best with adjustable upper control arms and while I was in there I thought why not do some nice super pro lower control arms and then you really need a wheel alignment from somewhere that understands how to set up those adjustable upper control arms . I felt like it would be wrong not to give the front brakes some love so upgraded rotors and pads went in too. Those stock brake lines looked suspiciously short now, so some longer stainless braided ones were best front and rear. And then I couldn’t help but install a diff drop, weld in (because they’re meant to be better on a ranger) and the aluminium bash plate over the front diff did need modification too 😂. Those 33 inch muddies were sticking out well past the guards so on went some good looking flares that definitely look better still with raptor coat tinted to the colour of the front grill on a wild track. Oh, I haven’t done the speedo correction yet….it’s close enough 😊
As usual, Ronny makes great vids. Unlike other folks who claim regearing benefits fuel economy etc, the real advantage is just as Ronny said, retaining low range performance.
Hello from Indiana. I have a 2022 jeep wrangler jlu with a deisel. I'm running on an evo stage 2 defender with King shocks. Going on 1.5 years with this setup and it works great. Really like the content.
Great vid. Very informative. Would be nice to include 34s (285/75r17) in the comparison as this size is becoming more available with a couple of manufactires eg nitto, bfg, yokohama, offering some tyres in this size. Obviously, comments about availability apply, but tyres are getting much better and tougher these days Also, note that tyre dimensions can vary between brands. For instance, a BFG runs small, so 33 (285/70r17) could fit in that brand where it wouldn't in a different brand.
You can do most tracks on 32's. Spending that much to do a few extreme tracks that you'll only every do once or twice in your lifetime seems a bit excessive. The best drivers I've seen over 30 years on the tracks look like they're in almost stock standard cars. Some of them have blown my mind, like the guy that easily did Spanish Steps at Newnes in a standard looking Prado after all these souped up utes were bashing and crashing their way up having all sorts of trouble. Learning how to drive and pick a line is a better cheaper option. It was a good video RD, thanks.
And all these points sit to explain why I still run the stock size tyres on my 02 Pajero. I do have a 40mm lift so could go from 265/70/16 (30.6inch) to 33's without any other mods (as far as I am aware) but it is more wear and strain on my drive line, more fuel and in my opion not worth worrying about. I'm not out to rock crawl anyway so clearance generally is not an issue. I've had so many people tell me to go bigger but I don't feel the need. 33's in NSW with the 40mm lift is also the maximum legal without major mods requiring engineering. That would give me 2 inch suspension & 1 inch tyre lift matching the maximum 3 inch lift.
@Jacobtheunwise that's because I'm not interested in the harder trails. I like to drive to places to see things not just to say I have done some difficult track. My content is not for everyone.
I've recently put on 275/70r17s (true 32) on my n80 and I reckon that's the limit for me. I've had to do some light trimming to the mud guards and that's it. I can easily see how a 33 would require so much more work. The larger you go, the more exponential the hassle is. My 32s are a sweet spot and often get mistaken for 33s too!
I purchased a Hilux 'N80' in the UK, I have to agree with this video as I wanted to run 33" M/T, I have purchased OME BP-51 with 2inch lift, OME UCA, Kaon diff drop, 17x9.0 ET0 wheels and after all that yes you can easily get 33"s on now.. but they still rub so I've now removed all the interior and dash (I mean everything) to modify the inner arches so I can actually get full articulation from the suspension with zero rubbing... its allot of work just for 33"s... I don't personally see how 35" on a Hilux are possible unless they are just for show and don't fully compress on the front... The other thing is the Hilux and 70series *new one* have same engine and I presume a similar auto gearbox, so bit confused how it could be said that IFS no to 33"s and non-IFS yes.. surely its the ratios that determine how well they will work. The hilux has 3.909:1 ratio, I read the new 70 series has 4.3:1 finals, so clearly if the Hilux was re-geared it would be same. No one in Australia will send me gears of the N80 Hilux as I was happy to re-gear mine but I think only 4.88:1 was available and I thought that was too much for 33"s.. but I could be wrong.. I worked out previously that 4.3:1 would be perfect.. but no one sells this ratio.. in the UK the 2.4ltr engine has a 4.1:1 and that might be what I do as a half way measure... Either way this thing is costing me a fortune.
To put a true 33 12.5 on my NP300 navara apart from suspension, which is obvious, was trim the inner gaurd a tiny bit, and I changed diff ratios to suit. The only other thing I want to do is a brake upgrade, but it stops fine now, it's really just for towing our van.
That’s a lot of solid information there mate. It plays a lot into your vehicle much more than others think it’s does. The other issue you have to consider (different per state) is GVM. Yep bigger tyres robs you of your gvm the bigger you go, especially if you need to carry more fuel or a rear bar to carry that spare wheel on your wagon. As obvious with my profile picture I own a ‘16 duel cab ranger, ideally it’s my jack-all-trades vehicle. It’s my daily, it’s my weekender, it’s my tourer, it’s my dream rig. I’m building mine up to 275/70/17 or 32.2” tyres with 2” lift, diff drop, new UCA and a GVM upgrade to have a rear bar and 122L tank. A bit much just to go that size but being its usage I can mildly justify it. However I can’t exactly justify cheaping out my camping gear on Kings drawers 😅
Great video. The best way to save money is HAVE A PLAN. Don't start with 31's, then go to 33's then to 35's etc. Figure out what you want and build to it.
Great video Ronnie on the brake down of the costs involved to do any of these mods, your pricing is in Australian dollars which are generally allot higher than there in North America, the process is all the same, some commenter said here in North America the big tires are for looks only, WRONG, they are used off road on a regular basis, 37's ,39's and 40 and 42's are that more more common nowadays, lots of over landers and off roaders using them now, even from GM you can buy a mid size truck Colorado or Canyon with 35's from the factory, you just have to pay the enormous price which is easily over 50k actually closer to 55-60k if you add options, the new Tacoma nice rig will start at 40 plus to get a decently equipped model that is before taxes or any extras we are still cheaper than Australia, the catch is allot of insurance companies now won't cover you at all or you have to pay an enormous separate rider policy almost equal to your annual insurance cost for the unmodified vehicle, Germany with the TUV laws you can't do any of this at all, people ask all the time and its a no go , I camp, canoe and hike lots of places for my photography hobby that a vehicle won't take me to anyways and it is still the experience at a lesser cost with the same results, and i have owned and sold loads of vehicles able to do all this and yes its fun and does cost a shitload of money, and i love tall sidewall tires, more ground clearance, better ride and they are only 1 inch taller so theres no major cost, not $56000.00 👍 I still love the look of these units and always thumbs up to the owners that use them as intended
Lifts and bigger tires are completely legal in Germany, you just have to get them engineered and follow certain rules. My 80 series is on 36s with a 3" lift, all TÜV-approved.
After watching this, I'm thankful that the Ford Bronco Sasquatch comes from the factory with both IFS and 35" tires. Nothing else to do to it after spending the $5000 price of that package. Too bad they won't be sending any of them to Australia, since you guys drive on the "wrong" side of the road. 😉
Awesome video once again mate. My personal experience: GU Patrol coil cab, standard suspension handled 33 inch tyres with no rubbing noticed, 2 inch lift handled 35 inch tyres with minimal rubbing: this seemed to be the sweet spot, just springs and shocks upgraded. I've now gone to a 3-inch lift and softer rates to try and increase flex, but got lots of rubbing in the guards when flexing fully loaded. It's since escalated into a large list of suspension mods to make it all work. Coils seem tricky to get right if you want good flex at low speed and bottoming resistance at high speed when touring/fully loaded.
I was thinking a long time about 33s vs 35s inch wheels on my troopy. In the end I stayed with my 33 (285/17 r16). I love the look of the 35 (315/75 r16) but it would have cost too much and for traveling 285/75 r16 is hopefully easier to get As I changed from All Terrain to mud terrain I took a slightly bigger tire. The Toyo Open Country is a bit bigger than the BFG, so in the end, its a good compromise 😊. Thanks for that video! It confirmed my decision 😅
I thought long and hard about my upgrade to my 105, and I’m shaking hands with myself after watching this. 2” lift and 33’s. She looks good and performs awesome. Only additional change was swapping out to an adjustable Panhard rod. Thanks for confirming I made a wise choice
Hey buddy. I dropped a 2.5" lift into my LN106 'lux a couple of years ago as the very old 2" lift had sagged (and broken, as it turned out when I pulled the rear springs out) it's way back to stock. Stock tyres on them things were 29" outta the dealership. I had 31" boots on it then and after the lift it looked (to me at the time) a little silly. So I rocked down to my local tyre guy - Bridgestone Kalgoorlie for the win - we looked at it a bit, I wanted big tyres, he's like you won't like it, I'm like nah yeah cocko, he shrugs and rounded up some worn out 35", got them on rims, mounted them on my bus and I went for a wander out bush for half a day. They were great offroad, fantastic even, and I had no issues at all with scrubbing or rubbing. That lift included a tailshaft spacer, extended brake lines, no need for a drop steering arm, I have full articulation all corners, good kit. Thing was on the highway they were, as expected, absolute shit. The LN106 don't make a lot of power to start with and these things were just sucking it out. Deflated for sandy stuff - even worse. So back to the shop, he said told ya so cocko, yeah righto, some umming and ahhing, I rolled out of there with a set of Maxxis RAZR 265/75R16 MT772M's - 33" - as a kinda compromise. Same deal, great tyre and an effective total lift of 4.5 inches. And they have been a fantastic tyre - bloody awesome in fact - so long as you are not driving on the road. On the road, 10l/100km or worse when the rig is loaded up, squirrelly and being so much bigger, takes a lot of middle pedal to pull it up from speed. Just because it can, does not mean you should. I'll drive these current tyres down to the plys like any good ole goldfielder, then flick 'em for some 31 inch tyres. I'll end up at 3.5" total lift - meh, big deal - and consumption and power back where it used to be, which was much better than this. Nah, no turbo. The only better way to wreck a 3L motor is to drop all the oil out of it.
Really good video.. except that on IFS suspension lift at any height doesn't clear tyres, as up travel remains the same regardless of lift, all you lose is down travel
33’s and a 2” lift for me because I almost never come across a situation where I would need more and the benefits of increased fuel range and reduced wear and tear are very attractive. Thanks for the videos Ronny..
Along with bigger tires, consider the added cost of body mount chop, regearing and eventually wear and tear of suspension components. Better to go for a stock size modern MT tire. Today they are far better on and off road and some have low noise as well.
I love your content Ronny, always clear explanations and real life experience to share. The only thing is that not only tyres raise your axle, portal axles can also do that. Keep on the great content👏🏻
For most overlanders--and off-roaders--a set of 33s will suffice on a front and rear locked rig. 35s will cost you in modifications to the vehicle and the 37s and 40s that Americans put on are often mainly for looks.
As a tourer / overlander rather than a mountain climber I put 33's on the 300 Sahara with a 2 inch lift. Kept the OEM wheels. Control arms were changed. Same time did a GVM upgrade. Beefed up the suspension as added a lot of weight with bullbar, winch, rock sliders & bash plates. I have a rear bar on order but 6 month lead time. The car is now twin locked & I'd reckon it will go anywhere I would be game to take it. Some of the stuff I see you doing I'd never attempt.
This is one of the best videos I have seen from a 4wd channel. No jokes. Well explained and reasoning, plus awesome production. I think I’ll stick with my 33’s (which I’m sure you convinced me of in a video a few years ago 👌🏻)
Awesome video! and the production level is off the roof! (I'm a long time follower). One thing I would add is that, although changing the diff ratios can compensate for the difference in gearing and help with fuel efficiency. More roll resistance will still be evident... I own a few 4x4 vehicles with tyre sizes ranging between 29" - 44". My 76 stays on 33", currently on a 2" lift and with rear track correction. but even without the lift and correction, 33's fit (almost) perfectly. It's just the sweet spot for these wagons in my opinion.
Portal axles saves the day. By dropping the wheel relative to all mounting points you avoid the geometry problems, get real ground clearance under the diff that regular lift doesn't get you and they will often be geared to compensate bigger tires. Downsides are cost and fuel efficiency/maintenance
Got a 3500 Kg GVM upgrade on my PXIII Ranger with adjustable UCAs. Went from OEM wheels and tyres to a 17" with 33s (285/70/17). That's very close to a 2" lift, 1" on the body and 1" on the pumpkin. Happy with that because there's no intervention required for the drive train.
In the US ifs vehicles are starting to have portal axles on them. Gets 3 inch lift and reduction gears in them and keeps the factory angles for suspension so the ifs or irs axles aren’t being stressed as bad from the angles. So basically it’s like factory ride on lifted vehicle. The only downside to them is the price 15-20k usd.
When I first bought my 80 series it was still on original Springs which had sagged 2 inches in the rear and a bit over 2 in in the front. It's still fit 33s easily with a 2-in sag. It now has a 2 inch lift and I have 33s for regular driving and I can chuck on a set of 35 if I want easily.
Great vid, another point is driving at highway speeds. I run 275/65r18 on my n80, and 6th gear is illusive. Long drives can become annoying as it will hunt between 5th and 6th. I’ll usually use the gear selector to lock it in 5th to preserve my sanity
Toyota got it right first time with the Troopy - comes with 225/95R16 - a tall skinny A/T tyre - 32.6" and incl steel rim only weigh 29kgs. Heaps of sidewall, airs down easily and takes little time to reinflate. Best fuel consumption. A set of 5 new ones costs $600 on Marketplace - owners taking them off their new vehicles. Bargain of the century. Just lacks Testosterone.
Body mount chop, front bar, caster pushed all the way forward and some +25 wheels is all my ute took to fit 285/75r18s (narrow 35s) on it. 6k including wheels and tyres,no poke no rubbing no lift, the spare even fits in the stock position. Did 15k kms before I changed the suspension setup. Car is a GWM Cannon.
@@hamishholmes3213 Hey mate it drives absolutely fine, the 0-100 is still in the 11 second range (same as stock). You do lose 8th on the highway (100gps is 93 on the dash) 1500rpm in 8th is 100gps and it doesn’t make enough power that low without lugging it really badly. Everything in the front is still mint (ball joints,cv’s,tie rods even the brakes are still on the original set). Off-road on the beach is great, miles of clearance. However I did break the rear diff (pinion sheared off where the tail shaft bolts up) at glasshouse, the rear diff is definitely the weakest link. The car has 50k kms, 42k on the 35s and I still love it. The lifetime fuel economy is 11.3l/100km but because the odometer is so far out it is more like mid 10s.
Cheers mate …so +25 offset was required to make them fit?…body mount trim & leveling kit I can do but not new wheels atm….did the bigger tires likely contribute to the diff breaking yeah?
also, what is: move caster arm all the way forward?…is that done when you get a wheel alignment & it moves the wheel froward a bit, so you don’t need to chop the body mount too much?
@@hamishholmes3213 Caster is all wheel alignment bud, there is plenty of caster,camber and toe adjustment in the stock setup, even lifted. The leverage from the big tyres and the weight( I was running heavy) is definitely what caused the breakage. You still have to chop a lot out even with the caster pushed all the way forward. You aren’t in Brisbane are you ? Haha you could come and have a look to see if you are willing to do the surgery needed for clearance.
One thing to also consider is wheel bearings. Bigger wheels=more weight that the bearings have to deal with which can lead to more early failure. More weight also means handling is effected for more daily driving on roads due to more unsprung weight
Fantastic video and in depth analysis of this issue, amazing how much people will spend to cost themselves more money in the long run. Sometimes just to cover up the deficit in their ability.
Meanwhile in America, here i am with a cut off wheel to my body mounts in my garage to fit 35x12.5s on my FJ Cruiser with out having to worry about the law. I didn't even weld a plate back in place. Love the looks and the performance over rocks or high speed desert running but it's been several years since I've installed 35s and now I'm starting to eyeball 37s. Can never be satisfied.
I only went to 295/70r17 on ky jk but I upgraded my carrier to a terafelx hd carrier to hold up to a 37" that alone cost me $1200,basic 2" King springs and 4" shocks cost me $350 used but had a shock blow out and cost 4 new 3-4" teraflex shockies for $480,Jeeps a little slow but throttle controller fixed that but I would love to re gear but that's an expensive exercise. If I go that route I will cladding lockers at the same time
toyota tacoma in the US can run 35s with just cutting, trimming and some hammering. lift isnt needed for IFS if you're actually wheeling cuz shock geometry stays the same, you're still going to rub same areas whether you're on a lift or stock height. Now if you go long travel IFS, thats a different story, tons of clearance then.
I've watched this channel grow and grow I'm not totally happy with the new format but totally understand what you gotta do to make your hobby a dream job that makes money...even though it's now apart of your job to product test and also sell due to commitments of sponsors...I like this video because you do show and are honest you can do mods on a budget and still be good reliable quality gear....and that you don't need to go all the way.....
Being that I drive a 9th Gen Ford F-350 92-97 OBS truck and mine is diesel I don't see the need for going bigger than a 33 inch tire for daily driving/ mild trail riding. With 33's you will only need a 1-2 inch body lift or trim 4 inches out of the front and rear fenders and add pocket style tire flares. Bigger than 33's will be a headache requiring a 4-6 inch suspension lift depending on tire size.
I have 295/70/17s with zero offset and 2 inch lift on my Ford ranger slight guard trim. I fuel up maybe close to 9-10 for fuel ranger which isn’t to bad. I still get 620 to 650 in tank and round 10l-11 per 100 on free way
Hey mate would love to know your comments on ranger raptor? I own one beast of a truck, some channels are saying just trim the guard on the front. Im concerned about stuffing up the live valve shocks. Cheers mate love the content 👌
Great breakdown Ronnie, although I don't think the split between IFS and Solid Axle is the most accurate here - it seems to be more between full size and mid size vehicles, given you had to call out all the full size SUV's as being comparable to the Landcruiser for cost and modifications.
The other possible expense with upsizing is the new garage you have to build in the backyard to keep your pride and joy safe, cause it doesn't fit in the house garage anymore.
The j150 prado/gx460 will fit 33s with minor trimming if you go with 255/80/17. Also, lift doesn't actually create clearance. A lot of those lifts are going to include a bigger bump stop in order to prevent rubbing. It's all about wheel well clearance. The wrangler can fit 37s without a lift because it's crazy easy to create the additional wheel well space.
I have 33x12.5x18 on 18x9 rims on a standard height suspension ln61 ifs front end.. just mudflap removal was required and it has been like this since 2014 and is used 4x4ing every winter and is also my daily driven car I do also have a ln60 solid axle front with 38.5 inch tyres and 6 inch lift which I have spent $2500 in total including tyres and high steer
Love the vids! Informative. I run std size on my 2104 Dmax...but AT3W not HT tyres. I would love to go to a 265/70-R17 one day but if it needs mods from stock I couldn't be bothered, maybe next set of tyres I"ll try it in a year or two. I don't do too much hard offroading, its my daily driver and I value wet bitumen performance over most things. One day I hope to build a comp style truck...just to get some 44" tyres in the house! 😁
Mate, wonder how many people realise too late that they have gone too far! Already down the rabbit hole and no looking back $$$$ 2inch and 33 seems very smart but can you still perve on your vehicle?? Great video again, keep it up 👍
Re gearing the dif must surely be helpful for fuel economy and speedo accuracy too? Big tyres are effectively changing the entire gear ratio. Ronny might even get 6th gear back on his hilux
I put 33s in my GMC sierra and I regret it. It was good in some off road situations but very bad in braking. Anways, after 430km it is time to replace it. Maybe a Patrol y61 is a good option (they still sell them here).
When you add larger tyres the speedo and therefore i assume the odometer is now out. Larger tyres means if your odometer says 100km you have really done 110km. So does the fuel economy increasing 1 L/100km really mean no change in fuel economy as in reality you are now really completing 110km? ie fuel is reading actual usage but the km are percieved based on tyre rotations
On my ln106 i have got a 2" lift 35mm diff push and 33s on a -44 wheel. Ive been playing with the idea of going 35s but im thinking ill stick with the 33s. It already rubs the body on full locl and under flex and im not interested in lifting it more cause then im confident itll roll 😂
Thats one thing I do not miss about owning a Toyota. The amount of modifications you need just to fit 33s on most midsize Toyotas is just stupid. My Chevrolet had 33-inch tires as optional and can easily be fitted and clear everything from factory. Also, with the chevy trucks, it only takes a leveling kit to fit 35s. I currently have a 2.5-inch lift (50-60mm) lift with 33s and the 33s look freaking tiny, and I don't even have a large chevy. 33s with the 4.56 gear ratio, mechanical lsd, and a decent amount of suspension travel, make my truck so much better on and offroad with 33s than my fj cruiser was, which could barely handle the 33s when on the highway going speeds of 75mph (120kph). I currently have more than enough room to fit 35s without anymore modifcation, and I can use factory wheels with 35s because they wont rub. Either way, love your content, Ronny!!
I should add that with the shorter wheelbase chevy trucks, like my tahoe, 35s are also the largest tire you can fit unless you have more than 6 inches of lift due to the squared-off wheel wells that chevy (not so) brilliantly uses. The longer wheelbase pickup trucks and suburbans have the ability to cut the wheel wells to a wider size so you can fit 37s or 38s
Got the new 76 on order. Worth upgrading to 31-32 or should I just go for 33. Sounds like a happy median considering you get a large lift without having to do suspension upgrades.
@@JacobtheunwiseNot if you fit them yourself. Old scabby portals can offer huge advantages compared to high end straight axles for a fraction of the cost. I get your point though.
The N80 was a shocker for fitting bigger rubber. Toyota combined a smaller wheel arch with larger rims and hoped nobody would notice. Luckily my FJ Cruiser has 33s with just a mild lift, ucas, no trimming and no body mount chop on factory rims with no rubbing. Not sure I would ever bother with 35s on anything as regearing and all the rest isn't worth it in my opinion. 35s aren't the big tyre they used to be, and any chewed out tracks have 37 or 40in holes now from those guys...
can you do a video for mahindra thar tyre options we have tough dog and iron man leveling kit which is the best option for 32-33inch tyres we have a body lift kit body leveling kit option
Only thing I'll disagree with you on there is the requirements for IFS, because of the way the suspension moves, a suspension lift has no effect at all on tyre clearance (unless it's a mall crawler that only uses a fraction of the travel). Body lifts do create more room, but they don't move the body mount, so that will always be a hard limit. You also left out the cost of upgrading the brakes as they get worse with bigger, heavier tyres.
Those new generation vehicles.. I used to have an isuzu bighorn wide track 2nd gen, and I just slapped 33" tires onto it and did nothing at all, stock suspension, rims, stock everything, and it did not have any scrubbing. And even if I would get scrubbing(you know actual tire size might differ from its specs), i'd just toss a body-lift, like 1inch would be enough. I didn't see any noticeable difference in the way it drives, fuel economy (3.1 diesel), braking etc.. My other car was the 61 series land cruiser, and I put 35" tires on it the same way, did nothing at all. It did have new "tough dog" leaf springs +300kg, and something like -40mm offset rims that's all. Just slapped 35 inch on it and off it go, no scrubbing. I don't know guys but over here where I live, these are considered baby size tires, 31 is not even serious.. The majority of offroad here are muddy ruts left by heavy forester trucks, you do need clearance to get through that. 35 is the standard for dual solid axle vehicles, 33 for IFS. There are many 35 ifs and 37+ solid axle vehicles, usually people do bigger body-lift, and the budgets are nowhere close to those in this video.. PS: SOA conversion on leaf-sprung vehicles like the 60 series land cruiser is a massive cheat too, but you don't even need that for 35 inch tires..
