I bought the Ender 3 S1 Pro in September this year. I’m an absolute beginner and I learned how to do things and setup my printer by going online to RU-vid. Plenty of excellent videos on how to use the Ender. I even bought the creality sonic pad three weeks later. I recommend this printer for beginners as long as you trash the manual that comes with your printer and follow the many very well done videos online. You won’t have any troubles. Bed levelling and everything is perfect. I use Ultimaker Cura as my slicer and there are videos on how to use that as well. You just have to be patient, follow the videos, and do what they say and you WILL have a good experience. So far I’ve had no issues or troubles.
You realize why that's bad. Saying "Ignore what they send you in the box and find people giving possibly bad advice online". Heck, in this very video I say to edit the GCode with a "M29" line when the line clearly (and fortunately visually) is "G29". Creality relying on their community to clean up their messes isn't a good thing.
I wish that was tru I bought a few weeks ago beginning of October and I spent a week trying to get it to print properly either my prints wouldn't stick and move or it just go whack after 30-40% so I returned while it was still under warranty and bought the Flsun SR instead no problems since
I bought this Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro and I love this printer, it was my very first printer and never had a single problem with it. I'm an engineer and the most important to do when you get this printer is to fine tune the printer, tight every screw, get all rollers tuned to perfection, get the belts tide, lubricate both gentry screws with lithium grease, level the bed manually using calipers, then with the paper method and finally a auto level. Add the G-Code line that forces the slicer to use the printer internal bed leveling (many tutorials to do so). Update to the new firmware and I promise you never have any problems with it.
I have to agree. I am pretty handy, and home mechanical, but certainly no engineer. I have produced good prints just by using common sense with the settings, and realizing what is happening. The only issue so far I have is with ASA peeling of the bed. I have no experience with other printers, maybe they are better.
Thank you sir, I have an ender 3 neo and I'm struggling with setting up the pad. I don't know how I got to your clip, but here I am. And when you entered the ug code I saw a significant difference. I installed all the codes like you did, I went code by code until I installed. Fired up the printer and imagine it works great. You have no idea how happy you have made me, if I had known this earlier where I would have ended up. I wanted to give up 3d printing and everything because it was too hard for me. But after this video clip, I realized that I was not persistent enough and unfortunately few people are talking about this. To be more precise, you are the first I have heard of this method. There is nothing I haven't tried, absolutely everything from the Internet. And of course I would always come back to the same thing. And now you have opened my eyes and given me the wind at my back to buy cr 10 s5. Thank you sir from the bottom of my heart
Best this year so far is the JG Maker R1 model for beginners. Love the Kingroon KP3S by the way, I have several. We just "dumped" our newest Ender 3 S1 Pro because it was having a LOT of issues and came from the same source as you. The Ender 3 was the biggest let down this year with problems from auto bed leveling to stepper motors overheating, the bed needed adjustment after a few prints over and over again, belt tension, noise from fans and I could go on and on about the machine. I love the fact it was sold and gone now, no more worries with Ender 3.🤠
I got invited to review the R1 and asked them about their bed leveling and if there was loading and unloading on the menu, but they haven't gotten back to me.
The bed leveling was the BEST I've seen this year, also unloading / loading was good. Low price and was shocked over the features and sold for "beginners" 3d printer.
Its a "pro" version meant for Pro's. The in/out menu is for extrusion ONLY. If you want to change the nozzle temp to non extrusion temps, go to the manual tab in the menu and you can set what you wish. Spend a little time getting to know your machine and you'll have a good experience.
This is a real L take. You know full well pro doesn't stand for anything except better features. The truth is there are much better experiences to be had and he made very valid criticisms. This idea that you should have to learn a shitty printer is childish. None of the things you learn from a bad printer are useful anywhere else in your life, instead it's just a waste of your time.
That's not what "Pro" means at all in this case. By that logic a $100 vanilla Ender 3 from microcenter is a "pro" 3D printer. Theoretically "Pro" should mean that it has features that professionals would want, which are usually reliability, reproducibility, and very little downtime. But that's not what this is.
I am new to 3D printing and I have just purchased this printer, I have found everything I need to know on good old RU-vid no problems. Thank you all you god people on you tube for taking the time to teach us how to set up and print 👍
I´m not trying to defend creality, i had the same isue with the leveling, it got me very fustrated almost gave up on the printer. I found probably the same video as you in youtube..... But i wanted to let you know and i hope this helps someone else too with the same isue, that you can actually bring down the temperature right where you were but insted of doing it on the IN/OUT tab you can do it from the MANUAL tab. Hope this helps.
I was a total noob, bought this, and never had any problem to make it work. Perfect prints every time except when one band was loose after a move and didn’t notice.
I get perfect adhesion on that plate. Usually use a skirt, sometimes a brim especially with tree supports which are paper thin. Never glue. So much easier than glass and glue. Leveling done right one time I haven't releveled in dozens of prints. I have two of these printers. One of them has a Sonic Pad replacing the stock touch screen. The Sonic Pad works great and the web interface is amazing.
On the Enders 3 Neo v2, after running levelling you have to go into configuration menu and select "Store Configuration", this stores the bed mesh for use when printing. I have also added the line M420 S1 ;Load Mesh Bed Level after G28 ; Home, under the start Gcode, to load the stores Mesh. I'm not sure if M420 is actually required, as it may be within the firmware. Once I did these things the Neo had printed consistently with very few failures to stick to the bed.
I had an Ender-3 Pro from Micro Center using their $99 coupon, and I returned it because it was such a piece of junk. Swore off Enders until Amazon sent me a free Ender-3 Max Neo for review. Went through the same bed leveling challenge you had and finally figured out that I needed to heat the bed, perform the four corner manual process, then run the auto level. Once dialed in, it prints pretty well, but I'm still glad I got it for free. Creality pushes the Ender line as great for beginners, but does nothing to help newbies actually learn to use them. Nice haircut.
This helped !!Bought this printer. Only to realise I’ve spent 6 months watching it do levelling for no reason. After that I tried to find RU-vid tutorials. It’s a minefield. By the time you’ve tried to do temp tower, esteps, flow rates, z offset and the rest (some of which should be done per filament). You’ll be lost watching your printer produce garbage.
Last Christmas time I had 3 3D Printers hidden in my home from the prying eyes of my friends children, come Christmas eve I got 3 calls from those friends requiring help getting them working, I have recommended printers to friends before that and they needed help setting them up, the quick guides that came with the machines were next to useless. I have also needed to help my friends when the printer developed errors, I have helped with upgrades also to try and reduce the errors they may encounter, my friends said if they had not had my help they would most probably have sent the printer back, writing a decent user guide for printers must be of very high benefit to printer companies yet they seem to have skipped this!
Creality Ender printers are not the only ones with this issue. Virtually all that use aluminium based heated beds have the same issue. If you by a more economical printer, you are going to have to deal with compromises like the slightly uneven aluminium beds. I have an Ender 5, it has the aluminium bed, but mine is not too badly warped. This is the second bed though. Out of the box, the bed was warped 0.2mm in some spots, and they replaced the bed immediately. Creality are good with support generally in my opinion. Since getting the replacement, I've never had issues and I have not had to do G29 at the start of each print, just tune the levelling each time I change a filament roll or build plate. Mine is the original Ender 5, stock hot end still, but I am looking to upgrade to an all metal hot end.
I've got one of these printers as my first step into 3D printing over a year ago, I hit all the same problems you mentioned but like you said once you get past these it is a great little printer. one of the major faults I had with this is that the hot end ribbon hits the frame and ends up snapping a quick mod after the cable was replaced and still going strong.
I sell 3D printed and CNC woodworking goods at local craft fairs. On numerous occasions, people walk up and tell me that they bought a 3D printer, but have stopped owing to an overall poor experience. After co-commiserating in their experience, I ask them which printer they purchased/used. 9/10 responses are "Enders".
This was my first printer alongside an Ender 5 S1. The only thing I had a problem with initially was how to calibrate the Z offset. A few minutes on youtube and I was ready to go, this thing being such a solid, reliable workhorse that after I sold it I had to get another. I never had to add anything to the gcode start in creality slicer or prusa slicer, and overall didn't struggle with nearly any of the issues you mentioned here. That might just be me, but I don't think its quite as bad as you're making it out to be.
There's probably a lot of other brands of printers also abandoned apart from the fact that creality are the most popular, so there will be more second hand printers as a result, like saying fords, or vw's are rubbish because there are so many of them in the autotrader. If people ignore the information that's available to everyone these days that's their problem. It's not creality's responsibility to teach you everything about 3d printing. You don't buy a computer and expect a free course in computer science. In fact I didn't get a manual with my £1000 laptop, maybe I should write reviews discrasing lenovo for such a poor product even though the build quality is so good and it's an amazing laptop. Saying things like this is nothing short of idiotic.
@@mattphillips6515The problem with comparing cars and computer to 3D printers is if I go from a Ford to a Porsche, or a Dell to a Mac, is most essential skills transfer. Any skill that doesn't I would expect some level of writeup documentation about. I mean, they teach computers and driving in schools. Though that wasn't always the case. Do you know why many early Windows machines came with Minesweeper? It was to teach people to use the mouse because that was a brand new idea at the time. And you bet they documented even the dumbest stuff like how to hold the dang thing. But unlike cars and computers, there's no standard with 3D printers. Every brand, heck every model of 3D printer is different. For instance, this one has a brand new leveling system they came up with themselves, and instead of documenting how to use it, they just hope the community will pick up their slack for them. And you're okay with that? 'Cause I'm not.
@3dpprofessor interesting about minesweeper, I didn't know that and yes I'm old enough to remember! You've clearly misread my comment, I wasn't referring to the skill set of driving, just the number of second hand cars compared to other brands, your arguement is invalid. Anyway, the same is true for a lot of modern tech. My arduino or raspberry pi didn't come with instruction manuals, there was no transfer of skills for me but I bought them knowing I would have to find my own path, I wouldn't bother going back to school for a hobby like that. It's the same with 3d printing. The problem isn't with the printer manufacturer, is the expectation of the customers and that is poorly managed by the people who suggest which printer to buy. So instead of wasting your time telling people not to buy a product that is more than capable of providing them with the satisfaction they're looking for why don't you spend time on providing solutions to help them. I doubt you're OK with that.
I have zero knowledge in 3D printing and i bought the ender s1 pro, I didn't do any changes in any starting code and all my prints were sticking to the bed, just followed the manual bed leveling and then the auto bed leveling
Good points. I have two Ender 3 Pros which I've recently replaced with more expensive printers. I did a lot of tinkering and upgrading of those two. Probably more than I did designing and printing. After being away from the hobby for almost two years, I really didn't want to deal with that again. I decided to spend more money and get a printer that I didn't have to tinker with. 3D printers aren't like laser printers. The industry is getting closer but the printers that are close to plug and play are very expensive.
Hello I'm going to start in 3D. Which of these printers would you recommend, the ender3 S1Pro or V3 SE or KE? Thank you and I really enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Best wishes and thank you
ok, so I have had good prints, and terrible frustrations from my Ender S1 Pro. I'll continue to work on the settings to get it better. The Bambu A1 that many are suggesting is not able to print in an enclosure. For the price, it is not a good comparison. You have to go way up in cost to be able to get a Bambu that can, and then you are way out of the range of the Ender. Oh well, you can't get everything for nothing.
Finally someone said it. I'm so sick of these cheap clones that offer nothing new but simply copy other manufacturers. They've done nothing to advance 3D printing other than save people a little money.
I really think it comes down to external help. There isn't (and hasn't been, and might not be) an inexpensive beginner friendly printer. As you said, if you need true beginner friendly (i.e. Plug and Play) printer, it won't be inexpensive. But if you need inexpensive, pick the printer with the best external support... And for my money, that is still Creality. I know it's not right to count on community support, but it is what is there for people who need an inexpensive printer. My first 3D printer wasn't a great printer. The Monoprice Mini 3D. But it was cheap and (more importantly), it had a great community for the beginner... If I had bought the printer and was relying on the documentation and support Monoprice was providing, I would have been unhappy. But that printer, with the Facebook group and youtube vids(including yours), became a great first printer for me... Yes, a Prusa would have been much easier to use out of the box. But that wasn't an option. Is it fair that these lower end companies rely on the community? Nope... But that doesn't mean we shouldn't still be recommending Creality. It does still have the best community support of the low end models... IMHO
What is really quirky is when you want to change filament color part way through the print at a specific height, you can’t do it unless you know exactly how to stop it and get it running again without canceling the print. I was hoping a firmware update would make it easier but nope! Thankfully there is RU-vid or else we’d be screwed
He's not wrong. I bought this printer on a whim over a year ago, and after building it, its been in the garage chilling because I never went though the self teaching / researching phase to figure out the rest. Now all this time later im here on YT looking at tutorials and found this video lol...
I bought this printer last year. If there is one thing they should upgrade to rolls royce status is the freaking SD card and SD port. I HATE IT so much! It's like a kid who knows how to be a karin most of the time. I upgraded the firmware from their website. Then a few days later the machine would randomly reboot in the middle of a print WITHOUT the possibility of being able to RESUME the print, cus it was too stupid to remember that it was printing something in the 1st place :) And then also a new phenomena happened lately when printing via SD card. I love checking in my print every now and then and sometimes I happen to give the table an ever so slight bump or like when you put a mug of tea on the table with a little thud and boy oh boy does the printer love that! Hej lets have some fun and randomly reboot because it got a fright and of course it got PTSD as well so it lost its marbles and could not resume, "What, what print?" hmmmmm So I tried printing from my PC and that seems to work (at the moment)
You can get an SD port extender and mount it wherever you want it. I don't love it either, but a printer like this you're expected to DIY yourself. As for not being able to print from the SD card, that's odd. Is there any reason you can't roll back your firmware to the one that worked?
I've owned an Ender 3 Pro (that's the upgraded original version of the Ender 3) for almost 2 years now. It's my third 3D printer, my first two were RepRaps that I built myself. So I think I know quite a bit about how these things work, and I've gotten VERY good prints out of the Ender 3, probably better than the two printers I built myself. At the moment, I'm converting a 'basket case' Ender 3 pro that I bought off of ebay as a box of parts into a Voron Switchwire. I enjoy working on these things as much as I like using them. But, I can see how the Ender 3 could really drive a tryo mad. BTW, I'm a retired software engineer.
October 2023 - While waiting the overnight delivery for my Ender 3 S1 , i watched a video on how to set it up . A few days before my purchase I decided downloading Cura to see what was that about and potentially avoid a buying something I would not understand. The day I got it, I went for extra filament ( as the videos indicated in does not come with much ) and that same day i had both the rabbit and the cat models printed 98% perfect (with a few blobs) . After that i tried sliced models with no problems That is my experience as a complete beginner in 3D printing and it's delightful.
I agree. I just got a plus and I was extremely frustrated. Didn't know Start & End G-codes were a thing. Makes perfect sense sure, just didn't have to mess with those on my cheap AnyCubic Mega S. Had this been my first printer, I probably would have gave it up.
I received the ender 3 s1 pro for Christmas 2022. I have used about 5 spools of filament. I have only been able to print about 15 good prints with this printer. Honestly I spent more time tinkering trying to figure out when it won't repeat. Constantly dealing with extrusion. I have watched every video trying to figure it out. I would avoid this printer altogether. There are better ones out there. The construction is great. I have no clue what the issue is with this printer. My experience is that it's just bad software.
Just a meta commentary on some of the comments here: I think it's absurd this idea people have that pain is some necessary part of 3d printing or that this guy is unreasonable for thinking a printer should be a decent experience that doesn't require you to learn useless non transferable printer specific "skills". Having a bad printer does not teach you how a printer works. It teaches you pain and forces you to solve the very specific problems of that one model. The reality is that if you want to learn how 3d printing works as a concept it takes 10 minutes on RU-vid, and if you want to actually have a tool, you are simply wasting your time if you pick an option that forces you to research and fix it from the factory. Basically, I think a lot of people see 3d printing as a hobby and almost feel offended when other people don't have to nor want to go through the same pains they did. They see this useless waste of time as a right of passage and its just sadistic selfish nonsense in my opinion. People who like building Vezbots and vorons? cool. People who keep telling beginners to hurt themselves buying bad printers? Not cool at all. Luckily with the kick in the pants Bambulab has given to the industry I think we're going to start seeing these opinions disappear by force as printers simply do become easy enough to use that no poor newbies will be tricked into buying some horrible low value time sync on the lie that cheap = value. Anyways, rant done, I think this channel will love the heck out of the A1, and I look forward to more and more printer focusing on what Bambulab really innovated on: Not speed, but user experience. Sure there are things that use privacy people are annoyed about, and yes it's closed, but people need to realize most simply don't care. They want a tool that just works, and they finally started putting real effort into what Prusa seemed to have fallen asleep doing until they started. Anyways, to the recommendations, I think honestly, and 8t sounds biased, Bambulab A1 and P1S are just very obviously what I think this channel should recommend. Maybe the Mk4 for privacy minded folks. I honestly think we've seen a new baseline and should accept nothing less. No one should ever have to think about bed levelling again short of literally recieivng a malfunctioning unit. It should just work. No one should have to tune any of the typical filaments. They should just work. No one should have to deal with unnecessary build processes out of some silly idea that it builds knowledge or character, it should just work. Printers should just work. Reprap Machines, outside of building should just work. Everything should just work, and then anything else can be trimmings. The base printer should be taken out of the box, you let it calibrate itself, you put in filament and then it just works. Manual anything. Nothing else. Also, as a side note, I will admit I don't get the flash forge love though, because they are often very slow to integrate new ux features like auto z offset, ABL, etc.
I love the flashforge because for 5 years I've used a half dozen of them in libraries all over southern utah, and I've hardly had to raise a finger to use _or_ maintain all of them. It's earned.
Have you tried the newest budget Ender 3 V3 SE? It does pretty much everything you're looking for -- sets the z height too. It has a lot of guides on the screen to walk you through how to run it. Very beginner friendly. Oh, and it's $200. (I did really like my S1 pro, especially after it was Klippered.)
I am hearing a lot of good things regarding the Ender 3 V3 SE. So, I have ordered one. My previous favorite budget printer was the Kingroon KP3S. I look for a budget printer that does not need a lot of mods.
I have owned many, my best experience so far has been the Elegoo Neptune 4 pro. My flsun V400 has been a good experience also, but I think that's because I have had another Delta. My artillery x1 was easy to use ( 3 years or more ago ) but the printer quality was not to today's level.
A few weeks later now and it's still 489€ here, I can't buy it alone. So it's all just marketing? I just don't want the AMS because with AMS it takes double the space of a normal printer. I do wonder why it's called mini. Plus that I read from people owning this printer that the AMS system isn't without fault.
I did the bed leveling, and yes I had trouble initially with it not using the leveling. But the line I added after the G28 code was: M420 S1 Z10 ; Use bed mesh 1 I haven't had to touch the leveling since.
That is another line that also works, but I'm a fan of the easy. Though I wish there was a way to level the code and still do the "flatten it after 10 layers" commend that M420 allows.
Yea - well, this still isn't as newb friendly as it ought to be. BTW - I'm not disagreeing with your assessment of the documentation - my prior Anycubic I3 MEGA Ultrabase was far far far better documented. But at least I knew enough to get this one going. :-)
if someone ask me now I'll only recommand bambu A1 or A1 mini , my first printer is ender 3 max and it driven me nuts, I have to done lot modification to make it work a little better , got x1c combo weeks ago and it just works
Yes… I understand how bad it is. But honestly whenever I buy anything that requires me doing some kind of setup regardless of the accompanying instructions, I always research the product online first. Obviously the videos are far better than the booklet and yes, you’re correct about the bad instructions and lack of support from creality. I’m not in anyway supporting their terrible and extremely poor set of instructions but I do like their printer. So far I cannot fault that. But absolutely YES on the amateurish and poor attempt at instructions. I do like your video though. Very straight forward and honest. Well done Sir.
I'll agree, the Ender 3 is a project in it self. Great for easy access modification & tinkering, not for people that want a out of box ready appliance. I had to learn everything on the fly with so many youtube tutorials & forum crawling to get the information I needed. I'm still learning after three years how to improve the physical hardware, don't get me started on learning how to edit & compile my own firmware... Never try to cram study editing Marlin for the first time in one night. Still rocking the Ender 3 v2 after light modification & made my own custom Frankenstein printer after ordering the frame for Ender Extender 400 XL then deciding to just build a second printer entirely rather than rip the little v2 to pieces. But it's been a fun if stressful time that's given me a several year hobby more focused on perfecting the machine itself.
I agree with you so much it's not even funny. After not even a year with my Ender 3 v2 and apparently I need a new motherboard because of board overheating and layer shifts. Took a while to figure it out because every source I looked at just said "level the bed and tighten your belts", which I am well aware of by now lol. Thx for the informational video, very entertaining and valid.
They simply do not care, and their strategy has worked for them because people keep mistakenly thinking that low price means high value. In essence, people and especially people recommending to other people, value free time way too little and imagine that just because an issue can be fixed with time, it should be, when that's just not the case if you care about your time in any shape or form.
I got the Elegoo Neptune 4 and the 4 pro . The pro has metal rollers and they are not better than the pom wheels. After 180 hours of printing on both of them I would say they are reliable fast and solid printers, No need to pay extra for the 4 pro though.
Just built my S1 pro tonight.. double checking everything.. only to get expensive silly string.. instead of printing a layer square it totally cuts the corner and gives a triangle. Guess I'll have to spend days sorting out this bs
I love the auto leveling on my 3 s1 plus.It goes through the whole process making concise measurements.When it's ready to print you hit print and have to move the nozzle up and down for a good 1st or second or third layer.What is the point of it taking measurements if it doesnt save them.Creality is a horrible reality. My ender three pro is headed for the telephone pole WIRE HANGING next to my neighbors Chuck Taylors!
On the plus side, there's a lot of groups on social media who have printers like this that should be able to help you. Heck, if you jump on my discord, the #troubleshooting folks are great. Not sure what "Auto back is stuck" means, but if you jump on discord and show them some pictures, I'm sure they can help.
Your video is spot on. The places Ender cut QUALITY did not save money. They're just sloppy execution and as a mechanic, technician and computer enthusiast I'm not impressed. Buy an Ender etc if your time is worthless. My first will be my last.
I guess that's just the difference in mentality between someone raised in the first world versus the third world. As a Brazilian, I grew up with no documentation on anything, except for a few local kitchen appliances, everything else just came with waste paper, since most of them were in english and less than 2% of the population speaks english, some had european translations such as italian or spanish, never portuguese though, I guess Portugal just wasn't big enough. We were taught at a young age, that the way to learn how things work is to ask others and later on the internet when that came about.
The difference is really the 10 years of development 3D printing as had. 10 years ago, this would not have been a complaint. But at 3D printing's current level of maturity, this is unacceptable.
@@3dpprofessor I mean, yes, if the option is there, why not take advantage of it. All I'm saying is that a Chinese company, therefore third world company, with exceptions, the mentality is that people will assume the manufacturer's documentation is going to be useless anyways, so why bother. Better to focus on making the product as cheap as possible, again, the third world mentality that everything you buy is going to cost 1 for you and 2 for the government in taxes.
@@SpartacusseExcept that we've already seen a chinese company, BambuLabs, provide excellent and complete documentation. And even Creatilty with the K1 did a good job of documenting it. So why did they drop the ball with this one? There's no good excuse.
Do you really believe that a person who buys a 3D printer doesn't know how to unzip a file??? As for the issue of lowering the temperature when changing filament, are you going to print without filament??? Are you really going to print at zero temperature?? And the question of the manual then... I think this is trying to invent problems that don't exist and not talk about those that really exist. It was the first video I saw from this channel and I don't think I'll watch many more. But that's just my point of view, most people must have a different point of view, after all there are more than 50 thousand subscribers.
From working in a makerspace, I can tell you for sure that many people who buy 3D printer don't know how to unzip a file. I don't always start a print immediately after loading filament. I often do, so it's not a big deal, but I don't always. And I wish I could say I was inventing problem. But, again, I'm on the front like. I work in a makerspace. People come in with 3D printer needing help because the manual stops way short of what they need to know. This isn't theoretical. This is my every day life.
The only solution is to put marlin or klipper on it. For one, the inevitable x gantry twist throws off bed leveling, and while x-twist isn't as bad as on dual rail designs like my SV06, I still had 68 microns deviation on my S1 Pro, which is 34% of a 0.2mm layer height. There was no way the bed mesh would give satisfactory results without x-twist compensation. The official firmware is also dogshit slow to get the mesh. Now with klipper the same mesh runs five times faster and I also get adaptive mesh before each print. And every other part of klipper is so much more convenient and is as fast and responsive as I configure it. The good answer to save money is to put a little more money into a Raspberry Pi and turn a cheap printer into a rockstar.
Sheesh...... If I were Creality I would be going yelp yelp yelp..... Yeah when I started getting into this I was very frustrated...... Sadly out here, everything is 18.5 times what it is for you..... Even my, in my money 10'922.00NAD CR10V3 also needed A LOT of tweaking.... I even had to tie both my Z Axis dual drive motors because of Z gantry mis alignment........ I went on for 6 months trying to get just good 1st layer adhesion all while being told it's not the machine causing the issues but you, you are doing something wrong....... Yeah, until I said sod it, and did what I should've done 4 months earlier....... It is sad though,...... Good video. Good solid info..... Let us hope someone listens....
@@jeffwagner1978 I would not consider ABS or ASA a starter material. That said, it actually can print ABS or ASA. It can reach the temperatures necessary. And if your printing something small you might even be successful at it.
So far my experience with Ender 3 S1 Pro not good. Had trouble initially with filament not sticking to plate but solved that by paying more attention to levelling, cleaning plate with isopropyl etc. The the first print I did started well, first layer looked good etc but 20mins or so into the print a grinding type noise started from the printer and the printer came to a stop. There was a funny message that temperature had gone out of range, nozzle overheated etc. LCD screen became blank apart from seven small spots on the screen. It was not possible to restart printer. Been trying to get help from Creality Support but so far no luck. Got onto someone on the chat site and explained symptoms,, they said maybe a firmware update required but it seems more like a mechanical problem to me. The Support person said they would liaise with my over my email to help sort out the problem. but so far, after 24 hours, they have not contacted me.
I honestly had a great time with my Ender 3 original….but I’m glad I moved on to more user friendly printers since then. I don’t think I would go back to Creality, though.
Its not, Neither is Creality. I had one print for 3 weeks, then basically bed melted. Wont do another creality after that, and w tent paid around $500 at the time, then got an SVO6.. which had bed level issues, build issues, then went Bambu and haven't looked back since. yes, the leveling is INSANE w this printer.. wtf??? Creality just sucks. All you can say to this.. why the F ?? Had Bambu not come out, the 3D print world would be Voron, or the rest of the pack that we have always had to deal with.. half baked printers.
Hate to disagree with you here, there's literally a setting in the next tab 'manual' then cooling, I've never had a problem with it cooling down once I've been into this setting to cool off the nozzle :)
I mean, my first 3d printer was the ender 3 s1 pro and i got it last year this time. It taught me a lot, and wasnt that big of a hassle. As i rip apart this OG Ender 3 for its parts to build a PET recycle machine and watch this video, I think being this harsh on it because of its instructions is not really warranted. Especially now that its what, 150 on ebay?
It's not about the price. It's about the number that they have sold and the fact that they could amortize the cost of doing proper documentation, and that they choose not to. Nevermind that they're missing a line in their own slicer profile and they haven't thought to make that simple fix. I'm not even talking about updating the SD cards they ship with it, though that would be a good idea. But ignoring the G29 line in their own profile when they could just update the website is unforgivable.
@@3dpprofessor Theyve sold as many as they have largely due to its price though, thats why bambu is trying to work its way into that sector with the a1. Im not disagreeing that it shouldve had the g29, but its mentioned in just about every youtube video and reddit post about the machine. Im not saying thats necessarily ok either, but that particular problem taught me how to edit gcode in the first place
I personally hated the Ender 5 pro and it was my first 3D printer but it had many more features in the UI than these newer printers that came out right after. Everyone always talks as if the Ender 3 and ender 5 are interchangeable. THEY ARE NOT. Its like trying to pretend the Ender 2 and the CR-10 are the same. Beyond a couple of commonly used parts, they are not. 0:30 He says M28 and M29 here but means G28 and G29. Still infinitely more helpful than the idiots who will sperg about the satan of the 3D printing world " THE ALMIGHTY NOZZLE CLOG" being the source of all problems in this life and the next. When my problem was the extruder block outright giving up on pushing filament through unless I ran the thing in reverse or manually fed it after installing a CR Touch and Creality's last update for the 4.2.7 board back in NOV 2022. My nozzle was immaculate because the filament never got there even with brand fucking new cuts of PTFE Capricorn tubing. I just gave up and installed a direct drive setup over that ptfe setup. 6:10 "THIS. IS CHINESE TOILET PAPER" Creality customer support is nonexistent. If in the rare case you get anyone to respond from Creality customer support, they will insist you buy a new printer with no name or ID about who you are speaking to if they don't outright ignore you and have several different official websites so GLHF getting a hold of them in the first place, let alone updating the firmware. Sure, I will buy a brand new printer, but not from your company or any of your products ever again.
It's my first printer and I got it printing In an hour. Oh, and if unzipping a file is above your capabilities then you really should rethink your idea of buying a 3d printer.
I'm going to be honest i was mostly going to follow guides by users anyways. But I agree this sucks hard for less tech savvy people. Also, thanks for the Gcode advice.
The hardware is pretty good for the price... the software on the other hand is poor. My biggest complaint is getting it to print multi-color prints by tricking into changing filament using the M600 command. The only way I have found is through tweaking a plugin through Octoprint which still is buggy. The machines firmware does not actually support M600 command filament changes automatically - using PrusaSlicer at least.
Elegoo Neptune 3 plus mine was $350 no tax free shipping only issues have been myself yes the paperwork for how-tos is still lacking but software is way better
This is why Bambulab released the A1. To kill the Ender 3 and Prusa Mini with one stone. Way better first time user experience. (I’m not new to 3D printing, but given my Bambulab experience, I’m gonna say the A1 is close enough to fit the budget.)
but just for a less booklet and instructions that's don't mean this is a bad product, each and every product have a manual and 99% people never open that booklet they just google it or search problem and youtube, the concern side is that the manufacturer should make a complete guide video about the product, how to use, manage and maintain. because its a new market and very beginner's are come in thus industry.
Well, it won't be when they make that an option, but I agree, when I get my hands on one I have a feeling it's gonna be the new #1 recommendation. Though, My CX1 only lasted a year before imploding, and I had a similar problem with an old favorite, the MP Select Mini. So we'll see how they work for longivity.
Yep, they make it worse with each iteration. I bought the very first Ender 3. A couple of upgrades (which they could include out of the box, but for some reason they do every time new printer with the same name which have other issues) and it prints like 70% speed of a top notch modern printers and with quite decent quality. And all of that under $150 including upgrades. So I see no reason to buy same Creality modern 'Ender 3' which cost more and still does not have what they should have and do have something that unneeded at all. And No I did not install second Z-axis bolt or CR touch or some gantry enforcers, or some expensive DD and hotend from aluminum for tens of dollars.
Okay, I get it, you don't like that Creality stinks at documentation and initial setup. I am not a creality fan boy but I am smart enough to be able to go to the interweb and rely on all those that actually do use the printer to find what I need to finish the process of setup. The truth is that, just as you said, there are a lot of copies. Copying the design is acutally the best proof that Creality is onto something with their design that everyone else wants to have in their printers. Given the headaches that I had to get to printing effectively, it really only took about a day to work it all out. BTW, don't use G29. Use M420 S1. Once the mesh levelling is done once, it will be used every time until the machine is turned off. This saves about 4 minutes per print and it works.
If it weren't for the fact that Enders are the #1 abandoned 3D printer, and the sheer number of people I get coming into the makerspace with an Ender 3 who say "I just can't get this thing to work" and I send them away after teaching them how to level the bed, Creality really dropped the ball.
@@whiteironwolfWhat loose part could cause nothing to stick to the build plate and the build plate being loose and the Y-Axis tensioner loosening up as well?
It's difficult isn't it. I've been looking into which printer to buy for my entry into 3D printing and it seems like all the 300€ models are... difficult. Ender seems to be resting on their laurels and all the models are slightly different iterations on an old platform. The neptune 4 seems to have serious software issues people are struggling with and uses different parts where it's difficult to get replacements or different nozzles. The Sovol also seems to have a bunch of issues which you yourself probably know best. You get what you pay for I suppose but the P1P is literally twice the price, of course you get much better things for literally twice the price. Maybe it's worth that investment but how am I to judge this? It's quite a bit of money isn't it? If you do happen to see this I am open for recommendations. Edit: To add onto this it seems there is a bit of a lack of options somewhere above 300 but still under 500 dollars. Like around 400 or 450 with some niceties and actual qualities but not immediately 600+
I honestly don't understand where you're going with this. What you're saying is essentially that this is the best printer at this price point? So... you're saying don't buy a cheaper printer? Or what?
@@ianbrown4242 the hardware is good. But if you're a beginner, if this is your first experience 3d printing, if you lack technical confidence, absolutely do not buy this. As I said, I've seen so many abandoned Ender 3s, and all they needed was a bed leveling. There fact that this is Crealitiy's latest offering in this line and they still have not made an effort to rectify this issue shows a disdain for this line. Absolutely do not buy it. It's not about you. Is not about the hardware. It's about a manufacture cutting corners where they should be putting extra effort.
@@3dpprofessor But... you specifically said it was the best in it's class? If that's the case, why pick on Ender, in particular? Why not just say don't buy any printer without bed levelling, if you're a beginner etc?
You have no idea how much i laughed during your video! I do support for 3d printing. On good days only 80% are Creality printers on bad ones up to 99%. In 60% of cases its that Startscript change. There are also some printers from them that wont even work with G29. They also need M420 S1 ! Otherwise they load a mesh with all 0000.
I bought an ender 3 v2 as my first ever printer. I now have 2x e3v2 4x e3s1p and 1x e3s1. All running klipper. All running damn well. I spent half a bambu lab on them. Couldn't be happier. Sorry but if you don't know how to extract a file, there is no 3d printer out there for you. Period.
That's not true. The K1 actually prints just well from an app. As does the Ankermake M5 and M5C. Bambu printers as well. However, you really shouldn't make yourself the gate keeper of 3D printing. Accept that there are people who haven't had the advantage of your life experience, and still want to get into 3D printing, and find a way to welcome them with open arms. You'll be amazed what they do.
OK, not being able to drop nozzle temp to zero got me surprised to be honest. I've been using S1 pro for almost a year now and never had a problem with that. Could it be a firmware glitch on that specific printer?
I'm 100% a newbie when it comes to 3d printing and my wife got me this for my bday. I've been watching a bunch of videos on how stuff works because the manual i got is a piece of garbage. I was so confused it's was funny. The manual does need a huge overhaul. I also had to add the G29 line of code during the install based on the recommendations in this video. So now i'm stuck at this place "What do i do next to get started?". I got the bed leveled but that is pretty much it. I guess it's time to continue my research mouhahahahah
Next steps are to load Cura on your computer and start slicing your own files. Load the STL into the slicer. Save the Gcode from the slicer on the SD card and move that over to the printer, and make something awesome. (I recommend PrintABloks.) Good luck.
Awesome video. I sent mine back due to being defective. Would not hold a level bed even with the changing the g code. Creality told me to go buy a glass bed lol. Ended up getting a return label and they got the printer and kept my money. Horrible company to due business with directly.
It would be good if you could inform your viewers that this printer does not recognise folders on the SD card, I finally got Creality to admit today that this is correct. their reply is below: If you put the folder in the memory card, the display will not recognize it, please do not put the folder into the memory card, and the print file should be placed in the root directory of the memory card. If placed in a folder, it may be misrecognized (Their spelling not mine). So there you have it, they screwed up the software, which is effectively a downgrade on this machine!
In my experience, the 3d printers that can read directory structures are way less common than those that can. I've been putting g code in the root for over a decade now. When I find one that I can actually use directories on, I usually forget before I use it twice.
13:45 did you really just get a haircut LOL...... anyhow, I'm considering getting a flashforge adventure 5M Pro. I know it just came out, but flashforge seems to have their act together and I like the idea of an enclosed printer and its wide range of materials compatibility. I know you haven't had a chance to evaluate it, but what you think of its chances of it being a winner? And thank you for acknowledging that we are God's creation.
@@jeffwagner1978 oh definitely not gonna print those technical filaments without an enclosure, for your health. But this is like I said "standard on a budget", and you arnt printing those "on a budget", since you need an enclosure.
@3dpprofessor thank you. I saw micrometer had ender for 179, and decided to check reviews. I think you saved me a big headache.. lol. Thank you. Do you have reviews on the recommended printers?
Well, there's this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kylPbftwg_s.html& But that was made before I started using the Bambu A1. Now I recommend that one for beginners.
I wish I had seen this video before I bought my E3 S1 Pro. My friend recommended it to me and it's been nothing but a headache. I hate this thing. I feel like it was recommended to me as a cruel joke to see how much psychic torture one could be put through before they snap. "You should be able to level your printer and never touch it again!" I, meanwhile, cannot get my Ender to stay level. I cannot get my prints to stick. Stable surface? Nope. Glue? Nope. Slapping some G code into the slicer? Nope. Leveling with the paper trick? Nah. Leveling with a feeler gauge? Nope. Doesn't stay level. My prints fail several hours in. I get why I see so many pictures of people abandoning these cursed things by dumpsters. I'm about to abandon mine and I've had mine for not even 2 months. No words can describe how much I hate this thing. How many chances I've given it. The guides I've read. The amount of troubleshooting I've done. I don't want to think about this awful thing anymore. I want to smash it with a sledgehammer to feel any sort of relief from the pain I've felt dealing with this awful thing. I'm done. I hate Ender. I'll never buy an Ender again. I've watched other friends buy Bambus and they just work. When they do have issues it's a problem they can fix in 5 minutes. Sorry for the rant but there is no amount of words to describe how much I hate Ender and how much I hate my E3 S1 Pro. To resell this thing would make me feel immeasurable guilt because I feel as if I'd be pawning off a torture device onto someone else. I'm not alone with my feelings. I wish I read *ACTUAL* reviews that people wrote because all of these videos gushing about the E3 S1 Pro I'm convinced are paid actors. There's no way such a horrible thing can be so beloved when I can't get mine to print a single thing.
Salut. Je viens d’en acheter une (d’occasion) que je reçois bientôt ... J’ai vu toutes ces vidéos où l’ont dit qu’elle est géniale ... Et puis, tout à coup, j’arrive ici, je lis tous les commentaires dont le tien ... Et soudainement j’ai peur. Très peur car en plus je suis un débutant ...
