I think the strength to weight needs to be considered. A great big lump of extension will trying to tear itself of the boat. It will be about how well you attach it to the boat as this will add layers of glass to the new extension as well. The risk with fibreglass is the temptation to over build. You can get quadraxle glass cloth which would mean not worrying about which direction you lay the glass cloth as long as you overlap where the fabric joins. Big project I watch with interest.
This is absolutely incredibly useful for learning info about fiberglass repair and enhancements, I still feel like I'm watching a documentary, even though the sailing days are in a siesta right now, thank you both so much for your quality content as always!
i have yet to work with 1708, all my glassing has been done with 17 biaxial. i would have done 10 layers with 17oz biaxial only. much less resin used for starters, easier to wet out ie less time to do the job and i wouldve used full width cloth, not stripes, pre cut to size, numbered, with an overlap at the center of the piece to tie it together. this shape isnt an easy one but i reckon 6 hours to glass 10 layers in one go.
Faster wet out would be great! I went with the CSM backing because it both adds bulk and it helps to fair out any lumps or bumps from the previous lamination. There will be many more projects and layers of cloth on this build, so I will give plain 17 a try on one of them :)
Herbie. Im thinking your prepared the mold well and then you should have a great piece to work . I only say this for one who has made boat and parts mold . Your doing fine forget the nay- sayers . Wish i lived closer as id be more than willing to give you a hand. Angus.
Is thi extension going to have a deck? The reason I ask is because the top of this thing is going to havs a great deal fore and aft compression on it, as the backstay tries to pull foreward as well as up. The diagonal layup will probably not be as helpful as you think, as most of the tension and compression loads will be fore and aft. Diagonal layups are best to resist torsion loads. The diagonal strapping on the CONSTITUTION did little to make it impervious to cannon balls. What id did do is keep the planks from sliding against each other. With GRP construction, this will be far less of an issue. What made the cannon balls bounce off the sides of Old Iron Sides was its oak planking. The main structural issue I'd worry about, is the bolt connections which I presume will attach this structure to the boat. The bottom ones will be under considerable tension. The top ones will be mere locator pins. Where the bolts go through (on both this structure and this hull) should be heavily reinforced, both top and bottom. This is because loads will ne concentrated there. This reinforcement should be tapered aft with fewer and fewer laminations, with the longest ones at the bottom.
It feels a bit like reinventing the wheel to try applying multiple layers of glass at once - unless I have misunderstood what you meant (better finish watching to find out ;)). At best you’ll have trouble with curing, plus, there is an actual fire hazard here to keep in mind. This stuff is highly exothermic! ;) I think you can apply the next layer as soon as the last layer tacks up though - you should be able to do several layers in a day. (On the other hand, it should remain tacky for a good while - e.g., overnight - if not starved of oxygen by coating with wax based gel or PVA.)
It’s polyester so it doesn’t kick like epoxy does. It stays liquid in this cold climate for a long time and then gels, later it cures; but it never gets hot, even in the summer.
Herbie you beautifully showed what can be the drudgery of hand layup fiberglass work! Imagine how hard that would be to do on a temporary inside mold right on the hull , outside, in the sun upside down. A nightmare! Tackling those large pieces certainly shows how your skill level is up there with best of us! Cheers Warren
Thanks! Doing this on the boat would have required flipping the boat over to do it right. I’m going to be debating how to approach the rotten deck core. Do I cut the deck open from the bottom and preserve the deck or should I cut the deck and work from the top with a tarp over the deck? I feel like I’m answering my own question here 😂
@@RiggingDoctor depend on access from below, I would probably work from below if possible , usually the skin behind the core is a lot thinner. I did like the idea suggested and tried for drying the core with vacuum and then using gorilla glue to replace it which kids with moisture and expands like foam
I doubt seriously if I would need that level of GRP on my boat... notwithstanding I'm inspired to do some gel coat and spider crack work... if we get lucky we may see you do some of the aforementioned... great vid... looking forward to the next one... Fair Winds...
I have a sneaky suspicion when that comes out of the form it's going to look like something Red Green made. You have to learn somehow I guess. Balls to you for documenting it.
Yes they did. Did your parents or grandparents tell you to sit back and say nothing when someone is clearly starting to go down the wrong path? Is it better for me to say nothing, or worse yet, simp for the guy so he feels good? He's embarked on a project that he's going to invest a lot of time, money and effort in. Are you interested in seeing him fail miserably and end up with a product he's not proud of or worse, killing his passion for sailing altogether to try to never have to be reminded of his failures?@@Building_Bluebird
Do you have a better way to fit more solar panels and a stern hook on the back of a CCA boat without destroying the lines of the overhang with a radar arch?
I know I am the last person you want to hear from, but if you would like to start over again with your stern extension, I would be more than happy to consult throughout the process to come up with a product that you will be happy with and is as economical (does that word apply to sailing?) as possible.
Thank you :) If you want to discuss the current setup I would love to chat. I am very open to all input and suggestions. I don’t think I will be starting over though because this will be meeting our needs and desires for the project.
If, when you take that out of the form and it looks like the raccoon you ran over on the road and you make the heart breaking decision to start over I would suggest starting with building a form of the back of your boat. Use fibreglass (with a release agent this time) and OSB stiffeners to make a form of the last 4-6 inches of your boat. Bring that home and reproduce the back of your boat in your garage to work from. Also, take detailed measurements of the geometry of the boat to get your "lines" right.
My intention was not to be mean. I have no doubt he's a wonderful guy and he very well may be knowledgeable on the topic and maybe just having a bad day or his heart wasn't in it. The method undertaken ensured amateur results. We can sit around a campfire holding hands to make ourselves feel good or we can learn from our mistakes so we never have to live through them again. Sorry Warren.
I've been following Tally Ho, Sailing Magic Carpet and Project Duracell. I very much would like to see you get results similar to them. I'm not just being a troll.
Fair enough. The reason we did it this way is trying to work 1.5 hours away and 8 feet in the air, upside down is not very conducive to a job well done. The monitor windvane well also made the methods employed by Duracell infeasible as the carve out that looks like a tire over a raccoon would then need to be carved out of the fiberglass or formed by hand anyways, but upside down. The big trick will be getting it to line up and taking the time to fair it to perfection instead of stopping when it looks “good enough”. Hopefully there won’t be a second time for this project as it has been very time consuming and I really want to get working on the rest of the boat as well.
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