Thank you for this, just ordered the elements of boat strength. I‘m working on a shark 24 and am planing to do some changes to it to improve its safety / behavior on high seas. Looking forward to do the calculations and find out if the plans I have are viable 😁
I have met someone who sails from Florida to the Bahamas, the Dominican Republic and back all the time in a Victoria 18. If the boat is setup properly, it can go anywhere!
Good thing is, the Shark 24 is known to be be „overbuilt“ since it was designed in times where the strength of fiberglass was not yet fully known. There have been people crossing the atlantic on a Shark 24, the most famous guy being Bob Lush. I‘ve taken inspiration of your dyneema videos as well and will be changing my rigging, which I‘m sooo looking forward to 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
One thing I've considered is to convert my rudder to a skeg hung rather than a spade. Although I have a bolt on keel it is so well attached that it doesnt bother me (and I've "tested" it a couple of times😉), the rudder is really the only weak point. Having said that I did have a rock jump out in front of it back in 2020 which bent the shaft by about 15° but caused no damage to the hull. Yep, they built them strong in the 1980s!
Nice! Those rudder posts are crazy massive! In the Principles of Yacht Design, it discusses the scantlings for the diameter of the rudder post. They take a lot of force but also have an incredible support system holding the massive stainless steel pipe!
It was an excellent episode, and I'm glad you recommended some good books. A factor to consider as DIY is the actual fiberglass strength achieved. Between amateurs, it can vary between excellent to very poor. However, your last advice to do some dry testing will expose that. Fish Bump TV (the boat building part) is a pro channel to watch. Cheers.
Again thank you , using both of these books made all the difference in just layout the chain plates. I'd be interested in seeing how we compare both finale outcomes. Best to you. Angus
I’m swapping the chainplates on Wisdom at the moment and the Skene’s scantling for the plates was a few mm wider a few mm thicker than the scantlings from Larson’s Principles of Yacht Design. The bronze plates I was able to easily find are a smidge bigger than the Skene’s numbers which means it’s plenty strong!
Have you done the similar math for a light weight flavor from the other book? This boat sounds like an ice breaker. This sounds like a classic example of the cube-square law and windpuff hasn't passed the critical size to require blast doors and reactor shielding.
3.64! And no big changes like this so the same scantling number. Surprised i got sucked in and watched til the end….. so, hello fellow sailboat nerd! Looks like i need a few more books!
After watching in total. So your saying. Staying at a holiday inn express wont do it ? dam it. In the end I think windpuff will be a little more difficult to dock as it will get effected by the wind more? But what the he'll do I know. Thank you
Docking is never easy with a single screw in an aperture, but I’m going to use a Left Hand prop that way the prop walk is the same as on Wisdom and I will know how to work with it as second nature. Backing in will be tricky as always, port side tie up will be our friend.
The working sail area is currently 410 and we will increase that to around 530 ft^2. We will also have around 1000 ft^6 for light air sailing as well. The trick is breaking the sail area up into three headsails so that we can position them accordingly to balance the boat on every point of sail.
Interesting. Will you be covering the change in sail area/location in a future episode? With the addition of the bow sprite, will you be moving the mast aft or increasing the length of the boom to maintain the center of effort of the sails close to where it is now? @@RiggingDoctor
The mast will remain in the same location but the boom might change. The plan is to make a fractional headsail setup where the sails can be moved fore-aft on their stays to adjust the center of effort and balance the helm. When I get to this point, I will be making an episode about the topic as I discuss it with the sail maker. They are the ones who truly know this topic so I will be relying on them for the final say of things.
More space for solar panels, stern anchor mount, surround the windvane for maintenance and protection, and to make boarding the boat easier. Speed might improve if we heel over far enough but it’s not the primary goal.
Wow ! Very good information and very well done , BUT after all this I think I would just sell the old boat and purchase a bigger boat , save the time and migraines, lay back open a bottle of wine and relax! Hahahah ! 👍🏻👍🏻
The bigger boat will still have its necessary changes too. Our Morgan 45 doesn’t have a lot of the features that we are incorporating into this smaller Alberg. Also a bigger boat tends to also have a deeper draft. I already have one of those (45 feet long with a 6.5 foot draft) so now I’m building a shallow draft companion to the fleet.
you should try to get this book "The Design of the Aeroplane" by D Stinton Those halfwits at Google books think its "The Design of the Airplane" because theyre Americans and words are hard for them it wont help you make your boat, but its 684 pages long so it might slow you down from making more videos for awhile
I don’t believe in insurance. I have seen enough cases where people pay massive premiums for years and when their boat sank, the insurance company finds a way to not pay and the owner got screwed! I just have liability insurance and make sure that I won’t find myself in a situation where I wish I had a different type of insurance.
Indeed! Also something is going to present itself during the build that will preclude me from building to this ideal standard and that means I will still be overbuilt but not as overbuilt as planned.
@@RiggingDoctor Hi Herbie. I would appreciate a bit of advice. My boat is in Middle River and I believe it needs some structural repair. I have spoken with the guys at the marina. Quite honestly they never seem very interested in doing anything other than the usual jobs like bottom paint and such. They seem to believe it’s just cosmetic. Either way I’d like to have it repaired. Especially before going offshore. Would you have any advice for finding someone who’s capable of doing structural fiberglass repairs? I could also use some help with some boat cushions if anyone out there is interested? The professional upholster I hired tore my boat apart and bailed after only completing half of the job. Anyway, I hope your project goes more smoothly than mine has. I look forward to seeing the rest of the build and the final outcome.
We are close by! For fiberglass, my recommendation is actually an electrician named Bob Blood ((410) 212-3336). While he is not a boat builder, his work is immaculate, and perfect. He installed my electric engine and built the battery box, as well as closed up a bunch of through hulls. He’s also done beautiful work on my dad’s boat. He comes from Waldorf, MD but he works all over Maryland. He is definitely the guy I would talk to about fixing your issue. If it’s beyond his capabilities, he’s the kind of guy that will tell you so at the beginning and not waste your time either.
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks, I’ll give him a call. Yeah I know you’re close by somewhere in Maryland. Maybe in our hometown of Baltimore? We probably would have bumped into each other by now if you guys weren’t galavanting across the world’s oceans. lol. I’m usually between the upper bay and Annapolis. Spend some time in Fells Point where my buddy has his boat. Hopefully I’ll be in the Caribbean this time next year. I’ll keep an eye out for you. SV Interlude. Thanks again.
I disagree a bit, with your statement that if you're changing a boat you're changing it from something a naval architect designed to an untested experiment. If, like me, you bought a 40+ year-old boat, you have something that was originally designed by a naval architect, and then has gone through an unknown number of modifications by a series of prior owners. What you have, when you start, may very well not match up to what any sane naval architect would have specified. So don't assume that what you're starting with is any good.
Very good point! Every old boat that is still floating is a series of “owner modifications” but it still probably handles in a similar fashion to what it was designed for. In my case, where I’m making the stern longer, the center of buoyancy will move slightly aft when heeled. This means that the bow will be more prone to push into a wave if the stern gets lifted high up. From my calculations, it’s moving only about 4 inches aft, so I’m not very concerned about it, but if someone made the extension significantly longer, the bow might turn into a torpedo being launched off the deck of a navy ship! If the bow digs down too hard, the bot can pitch pole! This is why it’s important to understand the consequences of any changes but also plan them in a way that has minimal consequences.
@@RiggingDoctor Few prior owners will have made such a fundamental modification. My own has had a bowsprit added, to make flying a Spinnaker easier, I guess. I'm not too worried about it, because light wind sailing isn't when you need to worry. Everyone, though, buying an old boat, should consider replacing the standing rigging. If the prior owners can't tell you when it was last done, it's almost certainly overdue. And don't assume that the toggles, shackles, etc., that you find on your boat are the right size for the load.
That’s an excellent point. If they switch to synthetic, that’s another host of changes. The boat heels less which lets you carry more sail but also means more stress on the rig. If you don’t heel, you won’t be sailing on the lines that the designer drew up but somewhere in between heeled and upright.
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