Yeah, as you probably know by now I'm laying on the sarcasm pretty thick. But this is the type of session you must paddle out on if you want to surf every day. At least it was clean; I surfed roughly the same size today in howling 30-knot onshores!!
Anyway, as usual, even though it was tiny, there were still plenty of highlights. You'll see on my first wave I was shot by a sniper. I don't know what the hell happened: I was cruising along, and then BLAMMO!!
We explored various forms and styles throughout the session. Our good friend and local mat riding legend Midge was out, and he challenged me to do a handstand. Let me tell you, it's fucking not as easy as it may sound, at least not on a shortboard. Midge probably used to pull them when he was still stand-up surfing on a longboard several generations ago, but it found it to be friggin' impossible on a shortboard. I could barely get my hands on the rails! The next challenge to surf on one leg went pretty much the same.
Evvvvvvery now and then an actual turn section appeared. I was so stoked when I got one, of course, that I had to claim it. While I worked on my Iron Cross and turns, Travis was working on his patented Cheater 5 While Pointing to the Sky. I told Travis I would do four turns on a wave, and on the next wave, I proceeded to do FIVE of the dumbest, most ridiculous butt turns of all time.
For such a stupid day, there were many highlights. And of course there was LOTS and LOTS of yelling. So, turn up the volume and enjoy our kookiness.
16 май 2024
