We awoke at our creekside camp spot to the sounds of cow bells surrounding the Troopy on a beautiful clear blue sky day. After cooking breakfast we filled the water tank at a nearby water outlet. The oddly placed outlet was also adjacent to a rather large concrete table which had an organised tray and water glasses. A little strange and somewhat random in this location though as we mentioned in the last video description, this area is popular for hiking so we could only assume this must be who this is for.
Back on the road we begin the long journey north, winding our way back out of the valley, across central Georgia, through cities of old brutalist architecture, and back into the more dramatic mountains of the North. The valleys here are carved by the fast flowing rivers fed from glaciers high in the Caucasus near our final destination. In the melt the valley floors will turn to raging rivers, for now though they’re dry rocky fields and provide the perfect spot for us to camp up for the night.
Adjacent our camp spot a cable car sits to transport goods and people across the river to homes high on the opposing valley wall. These small simple means of transport wouldn’t be passing any safety inspections though are used effectively to transport everything from small farm animals to people and even vehicles in nearly all non significantly developed countries we’ve visited over the years.
The following day we’re blessed with incredible weather again and we set off following the same river up the deep valley. The road is varying in condition from smooth hot mix to slow and rocky. Areas immediately adjacent the river are usually worse were the edge has subsided and surface destroyed. Road repairs here would be continuous, always being affected by rain, snow, and slides. We pass though small villages and lush green farmlands and life appears to be operating on a much more relaxed slower time frame here. Quite the opposite then the lower regions and somewhat inviting!
Nearing the top of the valley the road deteriorated into a single track. Commercialisation is pushing development of the road and we drive through kms of roadworks that appear significantly handicapped by the amount of rain in the area. Unfortunately in years to come the adventure element of this area will vanish and this road will be merely a comfortable drive in the mountains. Great for access though is it good for the communities? A question we’ve asked in the majority of countries we’ve visited.
Out the other side and of the works the track begins to becomes rougher and the raging river becomes clearer with the pure glacial waters. As we begin our ascent to the Zagari Pass(2620m) the villages are more disconnected and under developed. The road doubles back and climbs multiple times into small valleys; in each valley the stream water turns from clear flowing water to solid ice flows. Winter preparation is well underway in the region and stockpiles are being created for the winter months when the area is cut off from the world. All over the mountain side up to and even above the pass men area working the fields collecting grass for animal feed. Thankfully the clear blue skies meant we score a relatively easy mud free drive to the pass all in the shadow and incredible backdrop of Mt Ailama.
From the pass it is about 10kms down to the community of Ushguli. Ushguli is a community of four villages located at the foot of Mt Shkhara, the third tallest mountain in Europe. Siting at 2100 meters, Ushguli has a population of around 200 people and is one of the highest continuously inhabited settlements in Europe dating back to around the 8th century. The area is cut off by snow for 6 months each year, which, combined with the quality of roads has preserved many of the villages' medieval characteristics, including the defensive Sven Towers. These towers which are also houses, are between 3-5 stories tall and were built primarily between the 9th and 12th centuries. Because of the preservation and traditional architecture, Ushguli, and the surrounding area was recognized as the Upper Svaneti UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
A quick bite to eat before taking a stroll in the afternoon sun to admire the traditional architecture wraps up this episode.
Join us in the next one where we find an incredible camp spot and explore a glacier.
Thanks for watching.
J&M
26 авг 2024
