Definitely following along either way. Love this motor in my Canyon, if it wasn't for the emissions hurdles I'd be budgeting to swap one into my Wrangler too.
Can’t wait to see more! There isn’t a lot if any videos on RU-vid of a 2.8 built or even taken out of the truck. Sdp makes a compound turbo setup and carillo rods
You're right, there isn't a whole lot out there. And when you do find parts, they are nearly impossible to get. If you like this, then you'll really enjoy what I have planned. New video coming soon. Thanks for watching!
@@joshuamarsh7807 I've had my eye on their 6l80 conversion for awhile. That might be a good route too. I'm just trying to avoid building another drivetrain. Lol
I would do some searching for information on this before I spent a pile of money. It seems there has been a lot of engine failures pre 2019. And there has been injector updates and a change in head design to accommodate the new injectors. Piston failures have also been an issue. I have a 2018 and love the truck. Hard to believe how well the little 2.8 runs. But I do worry about being among the unfortunate ones that end up blowing a hole in a piston or having a rod go through the block because a piston broke. Good luck and keep us updated….
I too have seen the reports of failures. It appears that most of those are due to excessive timing. 20 degrees is the maximum I recommend. I do plan on having a set of pistons made though. I can't expect a stock piston from any motor to handle 3 or 4 times the stock horsepower. Same with the injectors. Exergy has a nice set that I'd like to try out. Cylinder head work is also on the to-do list. Right now I'm collecting transmission parts so I can get the motor set in the chassis. I'm sure I'll find the limits of the factory parts fairly quickly. But I'll replace the obviously weak components now.
Highly recommend replacing the fuel pump while engines out and it's accessible as it's very difficult to do with the engine in the truck, and most people end up having to pull the engine out just to get the pump out. Also, the plug on the rear of the head is known to leak coolant and can be tricky to access when engine is fitted. Might be worth sealing it up.
My LWN holed a piston with the other 3 cracked from piston pin to the bowl. All 4 conrod bearings were hammered just after TDC. Rebuilt with new pistons etc. bearings, injectors and it sees every bolt in the darned thing is torque to yield. Had GDE tune unit. Failed at 133,000 km. 80,000 miles. Looking to completely delete and a reliable tune. I note our oil species 5W-30. I believe bearing failures are lubrication failure due to low viscosity oil and/or low pressure/volume. I hope to delete and run heavy duty oil in it.
How much power were you running? Do you have bigger injectors? A lot of folks blame failures on weak components. But the stock injectors can't offer you much more than stock hp. If you stretch the injection duration out to far it turns into a blow torch. And you'll have a piston failure similar to what you have described. And to run a long injection duration you have to increase injection timing, which will drive cylinder pressure through the roof and destroy bearings like you mentioned. I say this not to blame anyone. Only to consider the mechanical limits of the stock injectors, and the dangers of pushing them too far. This is an inherent issue with all diesels. The full size trucks have the same limitation. It just takes a lot less power to blow ours up because there isn't a whole lot left for the stock injector to offer.
@@breoll86 Was running the Green Diesel tune which was only a relatively mild tune. Stock injectors. I’m really looking for a stock ish delete tune as the DPF etc are now over 100,000 miles. I DID do a lot of at max GCW towing. I still like the truck, just need it to live a long life!
I wanna see the 2.8 Duramax hooked to a 4l80e in a Colorado or made old silverado. I heard this motor is a boss at towing but the only this that holds it back is the 6l50 that is mated to it in the Colorado.
I think a 4l80 swap is completely possible. But it suffers from the same problem as any other swap. You'll need to make a custom adapter to bolt them together. The 6l50 is a strong transmission behind a stock or lightly modified LWN. But it does have its limitations. 550 lb/ft seems to be consensus.
I can only speak to my own experience. But I have just over 60K on my truck and haven't had any issues. I've owned it since it was new. I started tuning it when it had 20K on the odometer. I get 27 city 30 highway. But I hear the guys with the 4wd trucks get a little less.
Hi I’m from Australia and thought I’ll just add my two cents These 2.8l duramax Are based off the 2.8l vm motori and share a lot of components I have a jeep jk crd 2.8l which uses RA 428 DOHC what we have noticed in Australia is they love to chew through the Engine bearings and throw the rod out the block and snap the crank I’m not exactly sure if this is a problem in the 2.8l duramax as they use a different crankshaft but the rods and Pistons are the same you can get ACL race bearings for them
I did hear about the VM issue when jeep originally had them develop the engine. And then GM bought the rights to continue producing it after the split. I do know that the rods are the weak link in the production motor. I do have a solution for that problem though. I have tested my truck at elevated power levels with good results. I can almost guarantee that I will break something during this journey. But I hope to minimize the carnage and share what I find. Thanks for the insight on the bearings! I haven't opened that can of worms yet.
@@breoll86 for Pistons have a look at getting the tops of them machine to take at the Sharp radius and get them ceramic coated don’t run your injection duty cycles stupidly long run the correct size injected for the job
@@mitchellpaterson7062 I will be in contact with some leading piston manufactures to see if they would be interested in making a set of one-off custom pistons for this motor. Maybe if the pistons are successful and if there is enough demand, they will become a production piece? My ultimate goal in this project is to drive the aftermarket to provide greater support for this platform. In the meantime, I could easily see myself modifying the factory parts until I can get some real parts made.
@@breoll86 in the meantime you will probably be surprised how far you can push the standard Pistons in oz we have the Toyota Hilux 1kd it is a great motor however the Pistons in standard form tend to crack even at standard power levels .. but there’s no problem with them after you get the machined piston crown and get them ceramic coated there are numerous 500+ HP compound builds using this combination and even up to 800 HP with the standard machined piston
@@mitchellpaterson7062 I have seen videos of the 1kd. I wish we were able to get those here in the states. But I will for sure be using as much of the factory components as possible until I find a weak link. I'm curious to see how far the fuel pump can go until it runs out. Also, anxious to see how much flow the cylinder head can handle. Only one way to find out.
@@breoll86 if the engine dimensions online are correct I should be able to make it fit nicely under a cowled hood! Gonna go to a junkyard and measure one tho cause I don't know anyone with a 2.8
Well, my original thought was a 6l90. But my t56 might be pretty fun too. Lol The t56 gear ratios don't really favor the diesel rpm range though. Also, I feel like the 6l90 would be a more popular/relevant swap for this motor. What would you like to see behind this motor?
Hi all. Can anyone give any guidance on how to properly re-align all shafts prior to refitting the timing belt? My 2013 Colorado RG’s timing belt broke at idle. 8 x rocker arms broken but I’m advised it’s likely the valves are likely to be ok so just want to try new rocker arms and see how it goes. Problem is I’m not 100% sure how to re-align camshafts with crankshaft and injector pump. Also, the camshaft timing belt pulley was removed without marking the pulley to inlet camshaft orientation. I’m certain there must be a way by lining up TDC to camshaft position and injector position. I have the Haynes manual, but so far everything points to changing a timing belt that isn’t broken. Might’ve missed the section I need, but happy to be corrected or advised either way. Cheers in advance.
Trying to sort a similar issue. Got the crank and cams locked with the special tools, but the 2x cam timing marks are about 3 teeth out on the back of the gears
@@johnmazoue3426 Yep. Had to borrow the special tools required to hold the cam and crank shafts in position. I suppose it’s possible without, but would be damn hard. The camshaft tool takes seconds to fit, the crankshaft tool was an absolute prick. Took about an hour of finger tip contortions under the engine to get it in position, and then half again to get it out and refit the plug. Would definitely be easier with a hoist, but doable for backyarder. Needed the Haynes manual also for guidance and picture references
@@hughmungus913 finally found a reference photo of the marks on the back of the gear. Just wanted to triple check that the 2 timing marks weren't meant to line up at 90atdc. You think they'd have a reference mark for when the crank is locked at 90atdc. Wasted a few too many hours trying to find info on this
@@johnmazoue3426 if I reminder correctly, that’s ok. So long as the two marks mesh accurately when installed, the cam timing tool rotates the exhaust cam into position slightly and hence the intake moves opposite. The result was they were no longer nesting together, but rotated to the correct position for the timing belt
I think the breaking point of the stock long block components is 450hp. I remember reading about on the Korean test motors. I do know that the owner of calibrated performance and duramaxtuner has taken a pretty good liking to these engines and it might be ideal to reach out to him for some R&D for an off-road engine to an all out performance emissions complaint mill.
I would love to pick Mr. Priegnitz's brain to see how far he has pushed this platform. Not sure if he would have much interest in a max effort build though. I have a set of Carrilo connecting rods in hand. But I'm not sure what the limits of the stock pistons, cylinder head & fuel system are. If I do end up swapping this into the Camaro, I obviously won't be bringing the DPF, SCR, EGR, ect with it. This is all hypothetical at the moment though. Just trying to see if anyone would be interested if I go down this road. Or if I should keep my focus on the truck.
@@breoll86 the 2.8 is an interesting platform to work with. It doesn't hurt to contact him and see if there is a market interest in either potential direction as a hot replacement or a non-emissions performance crate engine. Banks has a portion of that market hemmed up with the 3.0 ecodiesel and duramax lineup. Keep in mind that cummins their 2.8R crate for jeeps as well. The sky is the limit with potential possibilities bud.
@@nahrens223 I attempted to reach out to Banks a few years back and they shut me down pretty quick. Seeing their current product lineup for a 6-year-old Duramax doesn't evoke much confidence in future development. lol But I'll test the waters and see if Calibrated power would be interested in the extreme end of the market. Thanks for the confidence to pursue this further!
@@breoll86 I think between Calibrated and Wehrli you'll get some headway. Looking at the current fuel prices and the market's thirst for more power I personally can see this being a viable option for future builds. You're very welcome sir! I'm looking forward to see where this goes!
Duramax Tuners just came out with a turbo for these engines. They by far invest the most work in to these. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d3IGBMGKw40.html I would love to drop this motor in an older Tacoma or s10 zr2 and get rid some of the emissions and open it up even more
I'm trying to go well beyond what the Garrett Powermax or the DT44 can provide. They are both great turbos and in today's market I would choose the DT44 for any stock or lightly modified LWN. But I'm more interested in the extreme end of performance. I would like to know how far we can push this motor.
It's been sitting in a storage unit since August. I'm currently moving across the country so it's been on hold for awhile. I'll be going to pick it up this week though. I think y'all are really going to be excited about the stack of parts that I've been collecting.
