Please feel free to drop a like, comment on the video and hit that subscribe button! Thanks for watching! #is300 #is300turbo #2jz #nat #cxracing #lexusis300 #boost Please check out my other channel: / helpinghandautorepair
Sweet! Did you buy a kit to relocate? Or just bending everything by hand? Step by step I will start dialing this this thing in for sure! It’s making all the right noises now 😃
Yep, I’ve talked about it a few times. Just wanted to get the car out to get a handle on the tuning right now. I will definitely do that! Thanks for the tip!
Hey, I went with this one: www.amazon.com/dp/B07S8GJ3L5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share So far it’s been holding up great! Also thanks for taking the time to watch the video! Hope you decide to stick around for awhile.
Hey first off, thanks for stopping by and watching the video. Hope you decide to stick around for awhile! Currently I have it on 5psi. I have ran it at 7psi and just about kissed 10psi. I am on the limit of fuel around 10psi though. This turbo makes peak boost ~3,200.
Nope. Zero issues. You MUST heat wrap the manifold and make sure you’re using a turbo blanket. Also thanks for watching! I hope you decide to stick around for the long run.
@@ryanjofre hey man, just follow along in the build series. I have done what I feel is a good job at getting into the details of what is done to the car from the fueling to the engine management.
I don’t have a build list as of now. I can make a note of everything and write it here in the comments. More than likely I will be making a video on what’s done to the car and how much things cost.
@@Knownworldwide yea could you write up a build list so i can get a gauge on what i need to turbo? it was a great video by the way. been looking for something like this for awhile
@@user-wl6mn8po2e of course bro! I got you. 👍🏾 just stay tuned. Might be a video or two out for a list since I’m still trying to gather a few more things.
at 10:08 you said the car makes 170. from factory the IS300 makes 215HP. so with the turbo untuned, you should be making closer to 280-300 at least. I could be mistaken though!
I said that it puts down around 170 WHP (wheel horse power) 215HP is what it makes at the crank which I don’t care about too much. Through an automatic I estimate power loss to be around 20% at least which would put a stock automatic IS300 around 168-170ish wheel power when measured on a dyno. At the wheel right now I am just guessing it’s making around 230-235ish which would be around 280-300 at the crank. So you’re not mistaken in that aspect however I like refer to what the car is actually putting down to the ground and not what things say on paper if you will. I really appreciate you taking your time to watch the video! Hope you decide to stick around for the long run. I am headed to the drag strip on Wednesday to just see what happens there haha. Wish me luck.
@@Knownworldwide no problem man! I plan on doing the same thing to my IS300 but I want to manual swap it first. I hate driving an automatic after driving manual for so many years.
I’m not using the CXR gate. I did have it on there for a few days just until my other waste gate came in the mail. I am using a Summat racing waste gate. They are similar to the old VS racing waste gates. When I took the CXR gate apart and the Summit gate apart, the springs look similar. You might be able to just order springs from summit and use those?
@@atrip9052 Cool. The summit one comes with 5 or 6 springs that you can run separately or stack together. Currently the 5.5psi spring is in the gate right now. However since I’m running the stock exhaust, too much back pressure and the gate is opening up prematurely. So I’m only seeing around 2psi right now. Gate works great though! And it was only $100
@@Knownworldwide just got the summit wg in and the quality is night and day difference especially for the price of this wg. There are less metal shaving , sharp edges and more spring options.
@@atrip9052 Yes sir! I thought so too. For a cheap gate I think it’s very well worth it! Hopefully it works out for you! It’s been doing just fine for me so far.
Oh I will turn it up for sure. The stock fuel system can definitely do more boost. Right now I still have the stock muffler and resonator so it’s VERY restrictive! I have a 5.5lb waste gate spring in there now but the exhaust is so restricted it’s just forcing the gate open right away.
@@Knownworldwide It was interesting to hear even 1-2 psi gives you something you can FEEL. What got me on boost was my gf 2013 Ford Fusion with the 1.6L turbo. Before this time I'm looking only at naturally aspirated big balls power. I turned my nose down at "small" engines, and for me that would be anything under 5.0L. The Chevy LS had got my attention with 400-650rwhp naturally aspirated and torque curves of 400-525rwtq. So in an effort to see if there is more to get out of the Ford Fusion I found that Garrett and EFR made turbos for this size of engine that made similar torque and power curves as the LS out of the 1.6-2.0L! There are also clones of these turbos on ebay and amazon. At that point I was sold. So on any non-v8 engine in my possession or any of my friends I'd consider a turbo. When we make u-turns or merge in traffic or turn in on a high speed street or enter the highway there is a situation where low power can be very dangerous! My current vehicle is a 2002 ES300 with a 3.0L V6 1MZ engine. It makes 210hp/220tq from the factory. There are guys boosting these engines. They can get up to 4.5 psi on the stock fuel system due to the maf and fuel system having about 30% margin on them. Then with an FMU and piggyback you can get up to 8psi on 93 octane. Supposedly after 8 psi the heads will lift so you want to run head studs and upgraded gaskets, that will get you to 10psi at most, 12psi can be a costly lesson. The rods and pistons are good for around 375hp at the engine, if you see the rods it's obvious they are weaker than the aftermarket. That gives 260-280hp at the wheels out of an automatic and 280-310hp at the wheels out of a manual. When we go beyond this we need to upgrade the rods and pistons, as the crank and block are good for 700-800hp.
