@@jvst20051 what do you mean? If you just want this ECU just to run a stock engine, I would not suggest that at all. If you are actually boosting your car, they you need the EMU black stand alone along with the correct plug and play adapter.
@@jvst20051 Oh ok. Well I am unsure if what fails commonly on those Supras but the emu black is designed to run in parallel with the OEM ECU to maintain functionality of the HVAC system and gauges.
At least it was close by and not in Stockton, Sac, or Oakland, lol. Kinda reminds me back in 2013 when I was still working in SF, my S13 got stolen from the employee parking lot. It was found near Japantown and stalled out in the middle of the intersection. I drove to work on empty and I guess the tweaker who stole the car ran out of fuel and decided Oak and Fillmore Street in daytime was the best place to dump it, lol.
Those poly bushings were a nightmare for me to press in. A tip I have is to chamfer the rear knuckles and throw them in the oven. Then just clamp each bushing into place with a long threaded rod and a large modified freeze plug or washer. The energy suspension bushings are fairly conservative. And the solid bushings honestly aren't that bad. I had solid diff and subframe bushings from SPL back in the day and I barely noticed any NVH. 5th gear you could barely hear the diff spool up.
@@elcrx5394 awesome! I missed out on a Skunk half radiator too! My buddy just sold his. Guess I’ll be on the lookout for one. You piecing a kit together?
@@Knownworldwidethat sucks man, I had to buy my radiator new it was my only option. I bought a turbo kit but I still need to piece together some more parts that didn’t come with it
From the looks of it, you might be able to just segment the P/S bracket at the upper left closest to the valve cover. If you aren't OCD about bolts you could just get a low profile hex bolt from McMaster-Carr, or at the extreme, countersink that lower bolt that's getting in your way. Otherwise, MR2 hydro electric pump, lol.
@@TeksTherapy Appreciate the support! I do have some big plans for the Lexus coming up soon. Just been plugging away on the civic turbo stuff for now! Stay tuned! 🙏
Where'd you get the an6 fitting for the fuel return line from? Could you please provide a link to that. I can't seem to find one of that style with a locking nut to secure it into place.
@@BrodyCormier if you search an6 bulkhead fitting on amazon, there should be a few choices that pop up. Sorry I don’t have a link to the exact piece. I think it was made by evil energy.
@@KnownworldwideAwesome. I ended up finding one last night on summit racing. Now I’m trying to find the fitting you used on your pcv valve for your oil catch can setup. I can’t seem to find ones that go from m16x1.5 to a 90 degree with a 3/8 barb 🤦♂️
@@BrodyCormier tbh I went to a local hardware store (think Home Depot) and found one. I am positive that the one I use in my video is NOT the right threads but very close so I just sent it.
@@elcrx5394 What pump did you install? Bigger pumps will tend to be louder than stock for sure. This one I installed is louder than stock but not annoying. I do recommend installing this relay kit. It’s definitely worth it for providing the pump a solid 12v power source in case you need to push your pump harder to make more power.
@@andreash.9615 hey I appreciate that! It’s been awhile since I’ve done anything with this wagon. I do have big plans for it. Just requires a lot of prep work on my end! Thanks for watching.
What are your thoughts on the dual ball bearing option that cx offers?. Would that cause just as much trouble as the standard journal bearing turbo that you originally used, or would I just be better off getting the speedway motors turbo to avoid cx’s turbos completely?
@@BrodyCormier While I’m sure it would build boost and work just fine, if it isn’t a true T4 framed turbo (ie small back housing shape) then the drain situation is going to suck to deal with. I would just suggest saving the money and buy a turbo elsewhere. There are plenty of of other choices for cheap enough. Doesn’t have to be the speedway one (they are ~$320 now) but even maxspeedingrods or vsracing
@@Knownworldwide Thanks for the reply. I will definitely look into a few options before making a decision, although I haven’t heard much on how well the cx ball bearing turbos are. Would you still recommend for me to get that oil return line you used that’s linked in the description?
@@BrodyCormier I know of one guy running the ball bearing turbo from CX and he has had good luck. Think it’s been on for 3 years. I do suggest the Cummins drain if it fits.
@@Knownworldwide I think i'm going to go with the speedwaymotors turbo!. Also. what size does cx racing use for the blow off valve in the kit? It doesn't specify on the website. Thanks
For the rear ball joint, the front B13 balljoint is what you need. From memory I want to say it's K9820 for Moog. Someone will come in and correct me. **EDIT: it’s K9633 rear, K9820 is the front. ** Get gangster and add an additional shim in the VLSD for a poormans 1.5 LSD. You can also pull rings and pinions from a Pathfinder or Xterra front axle and swap them into the R200. They are 4.6 and 4.9:1 ratios respectively. Lowest you can get is 3.54 up to 3.91 from any of the Q45s with a mix of weird axle combos and hubs from a Z32 TT and Q45. For axles, the cutoff was 95 when the J30 went to OBDII. Early models use the 5x1 bolt axle and subsequently went 2x3. You can swap output shafts between all R200 VLSDs. 2x3 split shafts can be obtained from VLSD S13s and J30s. The remaining RWD IRS Nissans use 5x1 bolt, and large frame RWD cars like the Z32, Q45, and majority of the GT-Rs use 6x1. Nice reuniting with you and your son at the car meet at Journeys today. I'll probably be at Journeys again next week. Take care and again, nice to finally catch up with you after all these years, man.
yoo this is dope bro, just curious. I got the same engine in an automatic 99 integra. did just adding your turbo get you 300 plus hp? what all is done to the civic?
@@jackevans700 I haven’t actually got it on yet but yes the goal is around 300 wheel. Should be pretty easy to get with this setup around 10-12psi. Although I KNOW I am gonna run out of injector first. So if the used clutch will hold, I say at least 200-215 wheel on 5-6psi easy.
@@robomania6164 Yes. Technically. Although some stuff might not be in the same location depending on what you did with your MAP sensor and IACV wiring could be different between the Z6 and whatever B series you choose.
@@ethangarber5461 haha, you know what. There is a wire hanging down under the rear bumper and I always was thinking it was that slapping around back there. NOW I think it’s the antenna. Never even crossed my mind.
Question on your first start with emu on 300cc injectors your btdc angle timing was around 14-15 when you started the car now when you installed the 700cc the angle timing started high at 29 then it went down to 25ish when you enriched the VE table to get it idling near stoich. Is there a way to lower btdc to not run that high on idle?
@@japlanningaltezza4621 honestly I’m not even sure why it does that. It does it all on its own. If you were to see my timing table I have it set to 14 degrees at idle. It’s always done this since installing the emu. Car runs perfectly so I haven’t really bothered with it. Pretty sure it’s just a glitch in the matrix haha. As soon as I touch the throttle it goes back to normal.
@@Knownworldwide yeah i saw when you check timing light out the engine and inside and it matched but then i noticed that on your videos i was just wondering maybe you knew and adjusted that later on haha but aye if it goes back to what its set i guess it cool🤙
@@japlanningaltezza4621 yeah someone else had hit me on IG about theirs doing the same thing. I told them not to worry about it. I bet it’s just random interference from the stock ECU/wiring or whatever. If the idle quality started being rough as the number increases then I would be worried that someone was actually going on but my idle is steady and always has been.
@@Knownworldwide i see thats good to know. Yeah cause your car had neat crank and idles clean it wasnt bogging or anything i was just a little skeptical about it seeing those high #s on idle since you had it set to 14s and it was reading 29s down. Cause you usually you see higher ignition angle timing on higher throttle on these 2js
@@chrisleyva8125 hey! Unfortunately I took it down. I have decided to keep it. Thanks for the interest, hope you decide to stick around. Just made a video about this car. Bought a turbo kit for it.
@@TRIPP093 well I appreciate you stopping by and taking the time to watch my video bro! Means a lot 🙏 If you have time to check out my videos on the is300 on the channel, I give a run down on price (very budget as you could safely get) and I also give a run down on the CX racing turbo kit after having it for about a year. I know you didn’t ask but if you plan on using the Collins kit for the 009, just stop and save yourself the headache. If you don’t already have the 009, may I suggest the R154? It works better with the stock rear diff ratios. The 6-speed ratios will be way off for the stock diff gear.
Hey first off. Thanks for taking the time to watch the video. If you want to watch this video of mine when I switched turbos, I briefly go over what drain I am using. It is very hard to tell you exactly how I ran it though. You might be able to see it when I put the turbo on. Hope this helps, it’s very tight in there and if you’re using the CX turbo, forget it, you’ll never get it right due to the design of that turbo. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UQ7cNTp_mTo.htmlsi=2BF8tEc2CwTbl1X_ Around the 7:00 mark.
Nice video! Good timing as I'm planning my own fuel return install. What SKU Deatschwerks pump did you purchase? 1.) SKU 9-301, 2.) SKU 9-301-1000, 3.) SKU 9-307-1000, 4.) SKU 9-309-1000. Keep the videos coming!
You know what. I would have to try and see if I have my receipt somewhere. There isn’t a specific pump for our car since they are universal. From what I can see barely in the video is the 301-1000 number on the box.
@@stealzbysauce It does shift just like stock (maybe very slightly quicker) under normal driving. However when you are under boost or WOT it performs much better than stock.
did you have to change out your Knuckle Spindle Hub, break Calipers or Rotors? or is it just your axels and intermediate shaft that you have to swap out?
Great swap guide chief. I appreciate how you take it slow and explain to people on what’s done or what needs done to ensure it goes in smoothly. Wish I saw this when you were actually uploading but now I can smash the series without waiting.
@Knownworldwide Really well, 330HP and turbo is spooled up, had to switch to getting the TPS from the pedal sensor rather than the ecu throttle and is much more responsive Torque numbers were tricky to get any exact numbers on as we had to start at 60% throttle at 4200 RPM locked in 4th, unsure what the procedure is to get an accurate dyno But it's running very efficiently, Chris at EFI was a wizard, drives like stock in cruise and ramps in nicely at WOT I'll send over a few dyno sheets to compare
@Knownworldwide No at the crank, in the UK we have a slightly different measuring methodology, it was on a SuperFlow dyno, I think in the states you use DynoJets right?
@@AF.256 The a650 is actually pretty stout. They have been known to hold up to 400 at least with a bigger cooler. I do not suggest launching the car much as there simply is no way to improve the 1-2 shift. So I currently have the car set to 5psi through that shift and then I bump up the boost after that. So far it’s been good. I appreciate you taking the time to watch. Hope you decide to stick around.
@@Knownworldwide yessir if done right they will last, ive seen it done with upgraded clutch packs, tune the shift points, bigger cooler etc, these gearboxes hold the car back even fully stock, but clean build looks good, i’ll be sticking around for sure.
There is a transmission rebuild kit for only 2.5 k for the a650e, bigger sprag, upgraded clutch packs and the valve body mod can be done too. A good cooler set up with a shroud helps alot
@@aksdan7783 yeah power dynamix builds them. Supposedly they can hold 800 wheel with that kit. I personally have no interest in the auto. Just keeping it for now until people stop selling R154s for $100k😅
@@Knownworldwide buy a j160 from the is200 or altezza, there’s bell housing adapters cheap for the 2jz and the one for the j160 is made too. It’s similar to the V160 found paired with the 2JZGTE from the best manual turbo supra spec.
Love to see the is300 content!! How’s the turbo holding up?! Got mine dynoed and tuned and made 480whp. Blew oil seals in my rev 9 turbo 3 days after though :( How do you like your new turbo? Still holding up? My CX racing turbo did the same thing :/ I had proper oil restriction for both set up’s as well.
