I just want to say thank you for putting it in mm for us as well. From Australia my local suppliers sell it in mm whereas Tandy are in ounces. You have saved me a lot of time. Thank you!
This video is very helpful. As a new hobbies to leather works, I was very confused as to what weight leather should be used. It would really be helpful if you had a chart that depicts the weight and uses. Put it in your website and that would be a great value.
Just made a phone holster that is just about bulletproof. Hardened 8/9 as a backing, regular 8/9 as a mount and a molded 8/9 as a face. Started as something else but hey, I’m learning and it didn’t get wasted 🤷♂️
i had a good general idea what weight i needed for my new project, but this really helped confirm it for me. thanks folks, thanks Chuck, great as always.
Hello from sweden! I’m just getting started with leathercraft, and and i’m realy learning alot from your videos. And i’m getting realy inspired. Thank you.
Thank you very much for your information as I was clueless as to which weight to use for my soon to be project. Thank you again, you have been a great help.
Since you can stack weights with cement, It doesnt matter what the weight of the leather is.. it only matters that the end product winds up at the thickness you need.
I knew the leather that I bought was thinner than desired, but the color/feel was perfect and you reminded me that I can glue them together! Assuming you’ve seen The Karate Kid and know the tournament song... “You’re the Best Around...” 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 My thickness gauge is on the way to help me learn!
Mr chuck how can i start a leather workshop? I live in Kenya were tool are very limited, currently i repair leather jacket ,shoes, wallet in the streets of Nairobi eastleigh. Thanks for you tutorial videos i cant go a day without watching them may the almighty Father bless you abundantly.
Really interesting, as usual. Can you make a video where you explain the differences between the blades of the swivel knife. I. E. Flat, philigrain, steel, ceramic. Thank you a lot.
I’ve been loving your videos. Easy to understand and very helpful. What is the fur in the background? I inherited 2 of these some years back and honestly still don’t know what they are.
Do you ever make any leather clothing? Something other than say a vest or chaps. Something like a jacket or pants. Love watching your videos! Very informative.
Steve, we're glad you're enjoying the videos; we enjoy making them! So, garment weights aren’t really my strong point. I have made a pair of pants (more frontier/trade-era than casual) and a jacket, skirt, etc. It's not some of my best work, but I still wear the pants with my costume - and they are 20 years old, still look good and work great! I tend to work more in the veg tan because of the characteristics and the possibilities it offers. I would love to work more with the chromes, so in time I will get some garment weight videos going. Again, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
That's a good idea to layer it, because I bought scrap leather pieces and they are so thin... I purchased a Weight Measure, but it's not set to Zero so it's worthless... Nevertheless, it's says 1 1/2 weight that's too thin. I wanted to make a keychain and I wanted to practice on designing with shading...
I love your videos! I have learned so much, thank you so much for all of your time and efforts. Quick question I live in a rural area and I don’t have access to a leather shop, is there a company that could send samples of different leather weights so you can feel the difference between weights?
Hi Morganna! We have free samples available on our website, we'll link the page here: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/cp_/shop-now/leather/leather-samples
I have a question about the different cuts of leather. Which cut of leather for which projects. Example: Single/Double Shoulder, Skirts, Bellies, etc... Leather is pricey if you are doing it on a budget and you want to buy the right leather for the right project. Can you shed some light on this please?
Hi Tim! We'll link a few videos below that cover bellies, small cuts, etc. Hopefully, these will help shed some light but let us know if you have any additional questions! Bellies: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jzqlFf7u-zk.html Bellies & Single Shoulders: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-D66kaT9_GQs.html Saddle Skirting: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--FlkJlVqvZE.html Leather weights: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W7R4lU6Pilw.html
Going throught website is daunting. Can you just sort them by weights instead of names. I have to open each kind only to find out it doesn't come in 3oz. Is there a way to just sort out so I can only look for 3-4 oz
Hi Mark, It kind of depends on what you're planning on making. If you're looking at making belts start with an 8/9 oz. or if you're going to be starting with smaller items like bracelets and jewelry we would recommend a 4/5 oz.
I was just wondering what weight was easiest fro the beginner to work with, and I would decide on my project based on that. Thanks for getting back with me!
Hello Weaver Leathercraft, great video, thanks! However, I am a complete novice when it comes to leather crafting. I am hoping to make a simple large tote and have some veg tanned goatskin 2-3oz. Is that too thin? Thank you in advance for your guidance.
Hi Angelina, You should be ok with that weight - it is a little thin for a tote so I would suggest maybe adding a double layer at the base of the bag just for extra reinforcement if it's going to be carrying a lot of weight. Otherwise it should work out good!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thank you for such a quick and detailed reply. I want to make a cotton canvas lining for it and to use the french seam for added security.
Hi Debra, We don't have sample packs but we do have free leather samples on our website. So, if you see one you'd like to check out just click the Request Sample link and add it to your cart.
HI James, We'll link the video below where we talk about baking. It's a method used to harden leather for something like an armor. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hwGW_qwpxYs.html
I have never heard of that. Very smart! Snake proofing is a good idea in just about every locale! I’m not familiar with the term either. It sounds like a serious old school measurement. A 10 oz. leather (5/32” or about 4mm) would be some good protection for snake bite. It would have to be a big snake to get through that! I have a video on Snake Gators on the board for a project in the near future and that’s about the weight I’m going to use. If you hear of anything on the “grain” weight let me know!
Hi Alex, 2/3 oz. veg tan is ideal for wallets. We have used our 4/5 oz. Premium Chrome Pull-up for a wallet with three total layers but we would not recommend going heavier than that. The lighter the weight the less bulk once cards are added in. Hope that helps!
Hello, If you want a more supple look and feel and you want to use a chrome-tan then I would imagine the heaviest you can find in a particular color and body. Probably in the 4/5 oz. or 5/6 oz. range. I’ve heard of leather being used as an actual floor covering in the old days but I’ve never actually seen it. If you’re thinking veg-tan I think a heavier weight like a saddle skirting would be the most durable, but, it would be pretty stiff…which could work? Very cool idea! It will be fun to put some thought into it! Let me know what you come up with!
I seem to be having a small issue with Feibings leather pro oil dye. I am using their standard "Light Brown" color and trying to get a color that is similar to the sample picture on the bottle. I've tried diluting the dye with both a 1\1 and a 2\1 ratio of 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol applied with a cotton rag on a damp leather piece. I've heard many times throughout the Weaver videos that pro dye doesn't get darker the more you use and that it has a set color. This has not been my experience so I'm wondering if I am making a critical error in my methods. I would love some feedback since I can't seem to find a definitive answer.
I hate it that you’re having trouble with the dye and am not sure why. Multiple coats shouldn’t change the color, but, they need to be applied all at once (to get a consistent color without streaking). It’s a good call to thin with the alcohol and that shouldn’t change the color either. I may suggest trying the dip-dye method first, but, if the color is way off from what the bottle shows it may be a different issue. If the dye is old the alcohol will evaporate and the color will and get darker, but, you’re cutting it with alcohol so that probably isn’t the issue. I am sorry to say that I am stumped on this one. Try the dip dye method and see if that works. If not please get back to me and we’ll fine tune this down to where it will work for you!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply So, just to clarify, you're saying that the alcohol shouldn't be changing the color at all? And, if so, is there a better/correct way to dilute the dye to lighten the color? DIp dyeing has not yielded the results I would have liked. I have shaken the bottle to make sure that the pigment hasn't separated from the solution from being stagnant. Thank you for your help with the matter. I hope that it is a simple error that I will discover from doing different projects or from answers here.
@@pocketninja00 In my experience I have tried and tried to lighten a dye color by thinning it but it just makes less dye in the mix and doesn’t change the color. To lighten the dye we have to work with a lighter shade of whatever medium and I’m not sure there is one with the dye. If there is a good white dye out there then there is no end to the colors we could make, but, I’m not aware of one. There may be another option. You could try an Antique in a Light Brown. This is made to bring out the blemishes and stamping/tooling but it will also add a light patina to the overall color of the leather. With the pinkish color of the leather coming in behind a Light Brown you could have a lighter shade of brown but it’s still a brown and not something like a buff or tan color.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Alright. Thank you so much for your time. I will see what I can do through trial and error and, if I find something, I will post it in this thread for others to see. Thank you again and happy crafting!
I'd missed this one! Thank you, very informative. I have one question: what weight would start to be too thin for tooling? My spouse and I do handmade notebooks, where he makes tooled leather covers. We use a 2.2-2.5mm thick one, and we're now wanting to experiment with making a wrap-around cover, so we're concerned it'll be too thick.
Thanks for the comment and question, Marie! We offer tooling leather as thin as 2/3 oz(0.78-1.19 mm) which can absolutely be tooled but just not very deep to avoid cutting through the leather. For a wrap-around notebook cover, we would probably recommend using a 4/5 oz(1.6-1.98 mm), which you can find here: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/ItemCatalogListing/001/127 Good luck with the wrap-around cover!
I still new to leather, but favor the same weights as you do. Edge burnishing on 8-9 oz. is fairly easily accomplished, but on 4-5 or 5-6 I have problems. As it is thinner, it doesn't want to stand straight for working the edge and wants to bend over a little. Do you have a trick for burnishing lighter weight leather? Thanks for the videos.
Leather Man, try this: Lay the leather on the edge of your table with the edge to be burnished hanging over just a bit. Press down with your fingers on the leather still on the table and that will give you an edge you can slick easily. It really works good for belts and longer items.
We would recommend a 4/5 oz. veg-tan single shoulder: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/51584/001/154 This is a smaller cut and would come in a natural color that can be dyed (easy/inexpensive) in a number of beautiful colors or left natural to light-fade and oxidize to a rich rustic color. The weight (4/5 oz.) is considered a “pouch weight” and is thin enough to form and mold but thick enough to have some good durability. An added benefit to the veg-tan is the ability to mold, stamp and carve, giving you the option of adding initials, logos or custom designs to your project. Once you get a feel for the weight you can fine tune the weights you work with to more match the look and feel you envision for your projects. If you’re working more towards something like a trifold or bifold wallet you may drop the weight a little, or, if you’re aiming more towards a biker wallet or ladies clutch you may want to stay with a 4/5 oz. or bump up just a bit. It’s your project, so go any way you wish!
Hello,If leather is properly stored and cared for it will last for several lifetimes. Leather does not expire per se however there are several factors that will greatly reduce the storage lifetime of leather. The two main enemies of leather are continued moisture and high heat. Moisture will cause leather to mold and high heat will cause it to dry out and crack or dry rot. The best way is to store leather in a dry place at room temperature.
Great question! The thicker weights are a full grain single piece of leather but the biggest thing here is starting with a thick hide (bull hide commonly) and then, in many cases, “hot stuffing” to increase the weight a bit more (also increases density). I have a swatch of a 38 oz. piece of leather and it is a “slab” of leather!
So, for strong dogs like pitbull, cane corso, what kind of leather do you recommend? Veg tan 10-11 oz will be okay? A single layer is enough or i have to double it? Thanks for the video!
Ciobanu George, yes, the 10-11 oz. is an incredibly strong leather. You can always go with a double ply if you don’t have that level of weight in your shop, but I wouldn’t go much heavier simply because you really start to get some stiffness that may be hard on the dog.
Thank you for your quick replay! I don`t have the leather, but i have to know what to buy. You recommend any part of the hide? Shoulder, back, butt? The collars will be foam paded, covered with soft sheep leather than hand stitched. Once again, thank you. George.
George, your collars sound like they will be beautiful, comfortable on the dog and very well made! The weight is really more important than the cut, so, you can go with a single bend, back or side. The single and double bends may be the best route because these have ample length, little waste and are available in the heavier weights. My two favorites are the Hermann Oak English Bridle (a side and a little more body-#02-160S) and, one of my favorites, the Chahin English Bridle Double Bend (a little more supple and you can tool it-#02-380DB). See if this helps! Chahin English Bridle Double Bend www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/45885/001/24 Hermann Oak® "English" Bridle Side www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/26815/001/24
Thank you for support and infos! I`ve already found a seller, here, in Europe. I will buy the veg tan leather, natural color, 10 oz. This way, i`ll could colour the collars and leashes, whatever i want. :) One more question about the hardware: the buckles and D rings will be stainless steel. Any recomandation for stainless steel gromets with washers? Remember, the thickness of the collar it will be 10-12 mm. Once again, thank you for support and help.
Thanks for asking! An 8-to-9 oz. is my favorite for holsters, rifle slings and rifle scabbards. On the holsters, I tend to start with a 7-to-8 oz. or 8-to-9 oz. and line with a kipskin. This puts me in the 11-to-12-oz. area, but this is mostly for the Western and belt clip holsters. A minimal or “inside the waist band’ holster needs to be in the 4-to-5-oz. or 5-to-6-oz. range. I have just completed a project video on a rifle sling (out soon) and used an 8-to-9-oz. English bridle. I almost feel like it could be a bit heavier, but it's beautiful, very durable and comfortable. I hope this helps you decide on a leather weight.
The weight really depends on the type of holster you’re envisioning. The heavier weights (8-9 oz.) will have less ability to mold tightly but ample durability, and the lighter weight (4-5 oz.) will create a very tight mold and will have some durability but not like the heavier weights. Also, the size of the gun will make a big difference as well. Can you give me an idea of the size of the gun and how much mold you’re envisioning?
It would be any size actually. However, the amount of molding detail is probably the real question here. So, I assume the best balance would be a form which best allows the firearm to remain snug in the holster with good detail and definition around the edges along with maximum shape retention over time. I also assume that the longer the form is worked the more detail even if the weight is 8-9 oz.
