Thank you for all of the advice and these videos Chuck! I love your videos for the knowledge AND the inspiration😊 one isn’t much good without the other!
Tapering the belt was a new set of tricks for me. Definitely useful. My tip for you: Scotch tape. When you take those screws out of the tip, and are going to use them in just a few minutes, take a piece of Scotch tape and just pick the screws up with it, slide them away from your immediate work area, and tape them right to the cutting board. I use about a two inch piece and fold 1/4" of one end back on itself to make a tab so I don't have any trouble pulling the tape up from the board.
I have a strip of magnet screwed to the edge of a shelf above my work space. I use it to hold tiny pieces of hardware, springs, needles, whatever I don’t want lost. Would be helpful for those little screws you used on that buckle tip.
You touched on like 3 issues that have really been pissing me off, so thank you. Also, your vids are really easy to watch cause of the energy and clear love you have for both the craft and teaching.
Here's a tip for Chuck: Buy an inexpensive magnetized parts bowl. LOL Or, since Chuck will give us DIY tips, get a roll of magnet tape and stick a couple 6" strips side by side on the end of your work bench or on something nearby. Screws won't just roll off the bench. 👍
Chuck, always a pleasure and I love the elements! I had a suggestion for a leather element regarding conditioners for leather. Oils, waxes, combinations...when to use one vs the other, before dying, after dying? In lieu of other finishing? I see a lot of inconsistency in opinions out there and would love your take on this. Keep up the good work! I’ve learned a lot!
Hey Chuck here are three tips for the tipster. Tip #1: Lay those tiny screws on a piece of masking tap to keep them from falling on the floor. Tip #2: if those tiny screws are metal place them in a magnetic bowl. Then they are sure to be there when you need them. Tip #3: Make those mechanical screws magnetic so you can pick the screws up without losing them. Best regards, Richard
Thanks for the tips. I have the same issue with this small screws. People say i have several screws loose so what i do is use a piece of masking tape or scotch tape, put the screws on the sticky side and the stick that to my bench where it won’t get lost.
Speaking of shop tips, here is another one: instead of worrying about a sneeze or memory misplacing critical hardware, keep handy a small bowl or, usually more reliable, a weighty magnet, to grab any iron-based item. Even brass- or chrome-looking items are likely to be plated steel rather than solid.
I had no idea the punch had that adjustability. Thanks. When working with tiny screws, nails, etc I keep a magnet that I've salvaged from a large radio speaker and it will help keep and eye on small, magnetic objects. Keep in mind that this doesn't work on stainless.....some is magnetic/some is not. P.S. Some screws/snaps will take color from "cold blue" that I've used on rusty gun spots to restore color......not all hardware will take it but experiment and see what happens..... Keep the Faith, Tom
Love your all your videos especially the shop tips and tricks. If you haven’t done one on this already how about one on tips & tricks for storing leather hides and pieces. Do’s & Dont’s as well as anything special for chrome vs veg vs oil tanned vs etc. Many thanks.
Chuck here’s “tip” for you. Buy a magnetic parts bowl for your tiny screws, etc. you’ll never lose another one. Get a magnetic screw driver and you’ll be stuck on this tip! Best regards, Richard
Hi Chuck - re the compound rotary hole punch, I reckon folk would really appreciate the "optional extra" of replaceable tubes. Model A and Model B... For those of us with arthritis / RSI/small hands etc., the compound style is a game changer.
always so detailed and useful as usual!just started leather crafting couple days ago and found out your channel, best choice I made this year so far! Thank you for sharing your valuable experience with us on RU-vid!
Weaver Leathercraft it has been for this past week!have done a cigar pouch for a friend and a fountain pen case, the little tips and details you mentioned it all came out fantastic becuz of your videos!cannot thank you enough!😊
There's a brand of rulers called Alumicutter that's actually very nice for cutting! I found one in a secondhand art shop and it's the most used ruler now. One side is thicker than the other side, almost a quarter inch, and that's meant to be the side to cut on. Also it's non-slip! Though, when it comes to cutting a straight edge into a new side, I use a 6ft level to limit drifting from when you move the ruler down the side.
Red Coyote what kind of knife do you usecover that thickness AND the real thick stuff--10/12 oz. does a box cutter do it? My box cutter handle would clunk against the straight edge and wobble all over. Help!!
I'd be grateful if you did a video about braiding rawhide. I recently made a reata style dog lead, and though I managed to muddle through braiding the core, it was quite a bit of guesswork knowing the rawhide should have.
Thanks Chuck, such great advice. I particularly enjoyed the advice about the bar steel, I’m looking forward to getting into leather crafting, but Would love to spare my fingers as I need them for braille haha I would be interested in hearing more about texture surface treatments for leather. Such as burnishing or bringing out the greens etc. Keep fightin’ the good fight, God bless
Ryan Rohrich agree. For example, how would you finish a piece of armor? How can I preserve the leather and keep it from drying up or rotting without softening the armor?
Thanks a lot Chuck! Weaver gained a lot when you decided to work with them. I appreciate everyone making videos at Weaver but you're like my cool friend giving me plenty of tips and encouragement :) I have got to ask tho: at 2:09 I can see what looks like a hand forged metal spike that you use to remove the hole punch piece. Care to share what it is and what do you use it for? I ask as it was blacksmithing that got me into leatherworking. Thanks for your help and contagious enthusiasm!
Chuck, on the rotating hole punch... I lay a piece of leather 'under' the piece I'm punching through. I have found it first, makes punching through the upper piece easier and second, protects the polished ends of the tubes as I don't need to squeeze hard enough so that those wee tubes meet the metal base. I've never liked that the polished end squeezes down on that metal base. Too easy to ruin the tubes.
I wholeheartedly agree about the thicker straight edge! I recently had a blade jump my thin metal ruler. I now have a chunk missing from the tip of my finger, but for awhile I thought I'd lose the whole tip. Ironically, it wasn't leather I was cutting, but paper. If it was leather I'd have been a lot slower and more careful..that stuff is expensive and precious lol.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Yanno it was pretty gnarly but the only bad part was that the nurse had to remove a bit of fingernail. That was a new experience, I don't recommend any one try it just for funsies.
I Kawsar Billah Rabbani,,,, I watches your video from Bangladesh for a few days,,, I really enjoyed it and want to work with leather Products so I want your inspiration and advice,,, Million Million thank you...
Use electical tape plastic box or plastic I cream container for my screws or rivits that I sit out on my projects they are alot low than glad storage contaner so they don't tip over. no more lost screws will I am working on something
Chuck your a talented man, but please lose the Craftknives and use the round or head knife, it it so much quicker, I did my saddlery apprenticeship many years ago in England so they are like my right hand, keep the videos coming even after all these years I find you never stop learning.
looking forward to more awesome tips. trying to do my own leather crafting tutorial in our national language. filipino. because i want to help fellow filipinos who are just starting. paulboninvargas zebianmnl