I wonder had you considered just drilling holes through the back of the wood and then placing the magnets inside from the back? Seems like a great way to avoid having to cut the face off the wood piece and dealing with the seam.
Nope. I found this to be a more elegant solution. Also you have to watch the point of the forstner bit when drilling from the back. The way I did it gives you the most bang for the buck from the magnets and provides a cool seamless look.
Nice. Single magnets are much better solution compared to strip. They "auto" position knifes spaced from one to another. Just... bottom of top cabinet is much better place for knifes. 1. there is much less chanse to accidently cut yourself 2. it's actualy easier to pulll the knife when it is in horisontal position. Just slide it out, no need to overcome the magnet.
I made this the easy way. My board was 1/2" thick and I just set my depth stop on the drill press and drilled from the back so that the bottom of the hole was close to going through. Squirted some epoxy in to the holes and dropped the magnets in. I just filled the holes the rest of the way with the epoxy. Screwed it to the wall, looks great, works great.
I tried Bumblechutes on my cheese cutters and it's awesome. Thanks! Next up will the the Double Ought magnum cutting board at camp. It's a big ole boy.
Aside from the feline intrusion, which IS undoubtably cute as heck, the knife holder looks great, especially next to the blank white brick tile backsplash! Nicole, you are one lucky woman! ... right, Marc?
Regarding the color options of the Wood Whisperer t-shirts, as Henry Ford had famously said (from his autobiography): “Any color the customer wants, as long as it's black.”
Nice, as usual. However I'm going to throw a couple of ideas here. - First, instead of cutting in the bandsaw the way you did it, you could do it in the tablesaw, Just a couple of cuts. Taking the cut in the bandsaw in the video as a reference for position and calling it "vertical", you would need to make the cut as high as your blade or the wood board allow, so the blade doesn't cut through he live edge. This cut should be as close to the (future) front of the piece as possible. The second cut would be with the board in the horizontal position, so you're left with two pieces, one with the whole live edge untouched and the front of the piece (with some kind of weird rabbet shape) and another one with a rectangular shape. Now you would make the holes in this last piece and proceed to gluet it back to the "front and beautiful" first piece. Yes, I know the blade in the bandsaw has a bigger curf but it's easier (I think) to hide the cut on the sides than along the live edge. - Just make the whole bunch of holes from behind as deep as needed, insert the magnets, glue some plugs. Yes, I know, this doesn't make such a nice video.
I love some Henckel Knives! I tried the Command strips as well on a HF tool magnetic bar to use in our camper. I placed the bar and the knives and while I was working on the paper towel setup, the Command Strips gave way and I got a few slices on my hand. Thank god they were AmazonBasic knives and not the Henckel's; I think I would have had a few stiches otherwise. Great Vid and inspiration on what to use some my ashe tree that I fell this past winter after they dry through this North Caroline summer!
Things like this that I hang on the wall only ever fall off at about 2:38AM, 2 minutes after I wake up for no reason other than to hear it fall and poo myself.
Mark, why don’t you just drill holes from the back until you are about to ~1/8” depth from the front face? I did this on my knife blocks and then just epoxied in magnets. Seems like less work and then there is no glue line to contend with. Worked great for me. Always love your videos.
Great video. Thank you. We are in the process of updating our kitchen, and part of that is adding a backsplash. We currently have the knives that I've made on a magnetic strip, but I wasn't sure how I wanted to do this with the upgrade. I think you have provided me with a solution.
Perfect! I'm about to make 3 or 4 of these for my kitchen knife collection. Purple 💜 is my choice because Prince. I wouldn't have even tried Commands strips on that back splash. On a smooth wall with latex paint it probably would have been fine. I've been rocking either Alien Tape or 3M Exterior for a while and both work great.
I built a knife block with an offcut and attached it to the wall using the command strips. They end up being a little "squishy" so you get some rock of the board when you go to remove the knives from the wood :/
Beautiful knife board and kitty; love the live edge. I made a similar board recently, and those pesky magnets are really lively…jumping from one hole to another. Thank you.
Looks great! Admittedly my knives are heavier and more plentiful, but no matter what I did, double sided tape kept letting go days after I hung it, no matter how clean and smooth my surface was. I broke one of my very expensive knives the second time it fell off. It is now screwed on the wall...
This looks amazing. Not how i would have done it. But I am also not a professional or amateur or hobbyist wood worker. I would have probably routed out the magnet holes from the back and then added them from the back rather than a veneer front since the wood doesn't need to be super strong structurally Also I think you might have been using those command strips wrong. maybe not cleaning the surface well or not giving it its working time because they really do need an hour to set up. I am forced to use them since my rental doesn't allow mounting screws and I have it hanging a 2kg miniatures case with about 2KG of minuatures inside and it is holding up like a champ.
A seriously nice idea for a knife bar, but I have to ask: Why cut the veneer surface off and glue it back on, requiring refitting of the live edge? Why not just drill to depth from the back and plug the holes?
Can you provide a source for the magnets you used? I have also tried a magnet bar, and recently bought some rare earth magnets from Amazon and even with a single piece of veneer, two magnets would not hold a knife in place.
Question: I observed you did sanding before the round over, did you go back and sand the round over off screen? Or do you normal not sand after rounding over with the router? Thank you in advance.
I tried to make a knife block one time, and I had to mill the wood in front of the magnets to be paper thin, where I could start to see light through it. I'm surprised yours worked with magnets spaced so far apart and such thick wood in front of them. Maybe my magnets weren't rare enough? Or maybe my knives aren't magnetic enough?
I bought some NEODYM magnets from amazon and did a test fit with them. I indeed experienced the same problem. Magnets weren't strong enough unless stacked two at a time or just with a very thin layer of wood. If there's one thing I do not want will be knives falling while slightly bumping in to them or while removing one of the other knives. Still looking for affordable suitable ones.
That turned out beautiful. How did you decide how thick to cut the veneer? This makes me want to pull the trigger on a 14” band saw with an extension I have been debating on for a year😆
Overly complicated… skip the veneering and just plunge cut holes from the back with a router and hold the magnets in with plugs. No visible glue lines to try and conceal
Follow me on social media and you'll see what I'm building, including both "real" and "fake?" furniture. Just finished up a pretty complex sideboard project actually. Ultimately, I build what makes me happy. That may not be what makes you happy and I'm OK with that. You should be too. 😉
