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Spark plugs contribute a lot to coil pack failures. If you keep going too long on old plugs, the gap will become too big on them, hence a larger voltage is needed to actually make it spark. If the voltage goes too high, the coilpack dies.
I have the 9-5 Aero and mine is doing this AGAIN. I just had them replaced and the spark plugs replaced less than 7 months ago. But I think the place I took it to were idiots . But they were the only garage in town.
From my experience, regarding the cassette, you get what you pay. Cheap cassette won't last but are cheaper. There is not much that can go wrong in a 9-5 if they are treated right. K7, coolant by-pass valve, pcv system (if older than 2004), thermostat are the things to look for. Make sure you have good oil with the right specs and go for the nrg spark plugs.
(I'm commenting on a lot of your videos now as I'm binge watching them) I got a knock-off DIC for 55$, ran it for about 6-7 months with a stage-1 tune, got cold feet and got a genuine one for 295$. I sold the knock-off online for 10$, haven't heard anything yet from the buyer.
Thanks for the video. I love my OG95 and even though I’ve had some issues with her, she’s never EVER left me stranded. It’s the only car I’ve ever owned that has been this utterly reliable. There is info on refurbishing the DIC. If you’re good with electrical things.
Auto Autopsy if you’re careful and good with electronic, it is possible from what I’ve read. Now me, I’ll never try it. Im too rough. It’s like hulk smash with electronics and me.
Regarding the valve cover, I think its because on the left-hand side (4:12) you have the timing-gears that connects obviously to the crankshafts and they take up extra headroom in the valve cover.
THE DIC had me on the side of the road twice. Once with a 9-3 and then again with my 9-5. Always had a spare in my trunk, faster than changing a tire. Look for cracks when you're changing your plugs.
Bullshit.use original DIC and it very very rarely stops working,it usually gives plenty of warnings before car won't run... Trust me, 27 years with saabs 😁 Also, when you buy ORIGINAL DIC there are different revisions on DIC units, for example for later 9-5's and Aero need to have latest revision. In original DIC thee revision is marked on same side where OEM plaque is. NEVER EVER use copy DIC units,they just dont work,even If they do work somewhat ok they still mess up trionic and these crappy DIC s last very short time compared to original OEM DIC unit...
Maybe you could do a video on the brake vacuum hose. It went bad on my 2004 Aero. Result: brakes performed like my 1985 Renault 4 😂 and I got a VERY rough idle. I replaced it for about 40€. Really easy. And yes, I have a spare DIC in the boot of the Aero 😂
Hi! Love this incredibly helpful video. Thinking of buying a 2003 95 aero estate. Has a couple things wrong. A. Has a code. P1452. (Check engine light) B. AC doesn’t get cold C. Funny smell under the driver side floor after driving. Can smell it when placing nose under the car. Maybe cat? She has 173k miles. Body and interior is great tho.
I’d only ever buy a genuine DIC. I think that the reliability thing is relative - the DIC might be the most common failure (I’ve replaced mine), but that’s set against the rest of the car which (touch wood) is incredibly reliable!
@@Ro-12-21 Wasn't as much an issue for me since i live in Sweden, paid 1500 SEK ( roughly 150ish dollars ) for a new casette + like 20 dollars for NGK saab specific sparkplugs and it's a 10 min install so it wasn't too bad :)
I owned a 9-5 Aero a few years ago and the DI failed. I agree don’t replace it with a cheap copy I did it caused a miss fire so ended up getting an original brand new part and problem solved. Because when the original failed I got stranded I did purchase a second hand one and keep it as a spare in the boot. Never used it apart from testing it when I got it but peace of mind and meant I was never going to be stuck. It’s really not that major an issue. I had the car for 3 years and took the car from 122K to 165k miles and it failed once, problem is in the uk they’re something you can get only from a specialist . The car was really reliable, fast (stage 1 remap) and comfortable. I always thought the OG 9-5 with 6 speeds and four wheel drive would have made a great car, brilliant.
We have 2001 YS3E 185 2.3t and recently, after an lovely evening of changing oil with my friend I was heading back home and the car just died out of the blue. It immediately started back up again and that issue did not happened again since, but I wonder if it is because of DIC. We used to have 9 3 from 2001 and when it started dying like that it happened several times during one trip, lake every few Km (we were on the freeway and had to get to the exit).
The title on this should state that it's for the 4 cylinder 9-5. The 9-5 SE with V6 engine is a different animal with TWO 3 coil DIC's that has its own issues. Also, dielectric grease should be used inside the coil towers so they don't stick to the spark plugs.
My 2005 9-5 was throwing an occasional random misfire code during extended idling. Replace the DIC and still have the occasional problem. Keeping the old one as a spare now.
Failure as a Surprise is Due to Owner sloth ! One only needs to remove the thing semi annually for a visual check Look for cracks /splits on the black plastic undersides (first symptom) If there are cracks then remove the Black plastic affair and check for Oil leaks from the White coil cylinders and splits in the blue relay casing... IF those damages are evident then the Cassettes' days are numbered. Inspection prevents being stranded.. What's that worth to You ??
Does anyone have any idea why, after replacing DIC and spark plugs with new OEM parts just 6 months ago, the exact same thing is happening again: rough idle, surging and misfiring?
Agree with majority of these comments. Esp. replacing plugs at the same time of the d.i.c. There is some sort of memory or something and by replacing the plugs, it resets it all, fresh. Sorry, can't explain it better. Also, the throttle bodies on these cars will also exhibit a similar issue or two of a faulty d.i.c. Stumbling, erratic idling, some backfiring, etc. I've replaced that once, and hopefully never again, they're fairly pricey. The other thing that should get replaced on these cars, is the MAF. Replace it every 60-80k. Once they get weirded out and send any bad signals to the ECU, it can literally cause engine failures, and the weakest point on the 9-5's are the pistons of course. Keeping the MAF, d.i.c, plugs, all filters and oil fresh, it's a no brainer. Haven't lost a piston yet and should have 50k ago. A solid running Saab is a great feeling!
tbh, I think it is fair to generalize. it's well known that the aftermarket/cheap alternative for parts like DICs rarely work. clearly you have gotten lucky! lol
If anyone is wondering about the cheap ones, I was completely broke at one point and had no choice and it did seem to work ok with no eml but yes always buy genuine parts. Maybe buy a cheap one as a trunk spare
Most off the knock-offs don't have any misfire or knock detection. They only fire the spark plug. So while it may seem to work, you could be doing serious damage to the engine.
My 2004 saab 9-5 2.3t aero turned off unexpectedly and it won't start, the check engine light code said the ignition cassette and I bought one for $450 at advance auto, is it the ignition cassette?
Pro tip....if OEM ignition packs gk bad fairly frequently, buy two aftermarket and keep one in the trunk. If you get 5 years out of it you are as good as oem by the sounds of it. Sounds like oem may be no better than China.
Hey brother, do u think u could post a link to where u bought the dic oem part from or perhaps the part number thanks man. Love the content. Just joined the saab world with my 2004 9-5 wagon
Could it make the car just not do anything when you go for ignition ie. Keys in. turns car dash on but then next turn wouldnt start.sometimes if i hold the key there's a delay then starter motor goes and starts the car.
Hey I have an OG95 and with slow starts there’s one thing I always do. Clean the mass airflow sensor, with CFC mass airflow cleaner. Then get some electrical contact cleaner spray and go through all your harness connections under the hood. Also while you’re at it, clean the connectors in the intake as well as the cobra pipe and air temp sensor on the charge pipe. I’ve done this in my car for over 3 years now and seems to make a difference. Hope it helps any one.
@@chicagoui9299 it starts as soon as it cranks. Its just lagy to get it to actually go. Ima check relay then if not under the the ignition barrel theres a component there gets greasyy
I was wondering is that also a common issue with the OG 9-3? I have a 2003 9-3 se convertible with the b205r (i think that's the correct engine name - the 2.0L turbo with 205hp, I've heard it uses the Viggen turbo in those don't know that to be a fact though). I gotta question for you, so where mine is a 2003 it has the sport package where they used the extra Viggen parts they had since that was the last of the OG 9-3 it had the real carbon fiber dash trim, unfortunately that isone of the very few things wrong with mine, the clear plastic cover for the carbon fiber is all cracked and who ever was the idiot who tried to fix it they glued it, so glue is gooping out the sides and to make it even worse the idiot put SCREWS on it in a few places where I guess the glue didn't hold it. It really sucks they did that cause all they would have had to do was just peel off the clear plastic!! What a shame! So would you know where to get a replacement for that? We are trying to restore the car to factory specs. I did find a factory brand new replacement but it includes at ton of other dash related parts and is crazy expensive $2,400! I found a few aftermarket trim kits but they are cheesy fake carbon fiber that just looks silly. I have never seen real carbon fiber before getting this and wow, it's so pretty it gleams in the sun light.
And its the same issue with the B204. I bought a Saab 97 Talladega 900ng B204L, previous owner cheaped out and replaced the red DI (which was T5) with a Black T7 DI. First thing I asked from under the hood was, where is the red top? Answer,.. "the black DI was cheaper... whats wrong?.. it runs" Disgusted! But I bought the car to restore anyways.
Auto Autopsy - I have a Saab-related question for you. I have the opportunity to purchase a low-mileage 2005 9-2X Linear. It's a two-owner car with a 5-speed manual, always garaged, rarely driven in inclement weather, and serviced by both Saab and Subaru specialists. The car looks good on paper but I'll obviously have it checked out beforehand (it has 61k miles). I've observed that you have rarely featured any 9-2X examples on the channel so I do have to ask you the following. What specifically should I look out for when purchasing a 9-2X, and do you have any good advice as to owning one? Also, have you yourself owned one before? Thanks.
Hey! Haven't ever owned one and haven't really featured one because they're not too common out here and are generally not very well kept. As a result, I'm not too knowledgable on it. I would advise joining some saab facebook groups and asking for some more information there, as there's a lot more people that could give you a better answer than me! Good luck!
Hey, wonder if you know what to do. I put in the reverse without pressing the clutch. Then a crack sound. I can still put the shift to reverse, but it doesn't grip so I can not drive reverse only forward on all gears.
I have a 2000 9-5 Aero. Got message from Autozone engine reader to replace DI. Will a bad DI cause extended higher revving when trying to full boost? Also, I’m not able to full boost. ☹️
Can you do a video on why when I pulled my battery in my 2002 9-5 Linear it requires me to need a Tech II for the radio code? I live in Las Vegas and there's like one guy in the valley with a Tech II and he knows he's the only one.
Can the dic cause the car to just die out have the same engies and it runs but after ten minutes it just dies out and answer will be helpful also already checked fule pressures and relays
The valve cover is shaped that way because of the cams. It's taller in the front to clear the cam sprokets, and shorter near the back because the cams are a lower profile.
Yes the car will run but the knock will be off. Not recommended. It will upset the car. Dont upset the car. Do not swap T5 for T7 or cheap out. Best advice.
Ignition cassettes are best to be stored with the coilpacks down. I read once that they contain oil for cooling and by stoing upside down there is a risk it may end up in a place it shouldn't be.
