The MrCool Universal Heat Pump Heats at -24 Degrees 

Great!

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How are they for power usage? Do you find them economical

How much for electricity bill???

@@rodrigomodesto1884 my electric bill never past 130 a month. Mind you my whole house is electric. All of my appliances.

Can you share how large your house is and size of the units? I'm trying to calc electric cost vs. sticking with gas. @MRCOOL share that the house in the video was $200 for Jan 2020. I paid $130 for gas in Jan 2020. I'm in NE Ohio so similar temps to NY.

Hi quick question; does the condenser connects to the air handler via the thermostat wires, and then to the thermostat in the house? I would appreciate if you can shed light here! Mrcool phone is always busy. Thanks

They dont like it cause they cant rip you off anymore! I just paid 900 bucks for a guy to come out and braze a tiny leak THAT I FOUND in my 14 year old Goodman heat pump and I even took the unit apart! took him 10 min tops and it was 600 bucks for the repair 300 for 11 pounds of refrigerant, the next day my reversing valve won't move and it's stuck in cool mode, i find that very suspicious1

how big is your house? what state do you live in? interested in one of these too. I live in new england

@@lallygaber I have the same question. I will sincerely appreciate if he could share total KwH uses of this unit over a winter month too.

He shows the energy consumption on the phone app at min 04:16. it's 4.6kW/h avarage and peaks to 4.9kW/h at some point.

@@burakokumus6040 Woah, that's a lot of energy. I wonder if its cheaper or more expensive compared to resistive heat in these conditions.

@@prowler1992 5kw of resistive heating would only put out 17k BTUs/hour which is not enough to heat an entire home. The heat pump is still much more efficient than resistance heating. That being said, natural gas is probably even more efficient at those low temperatures.

about half the power resistive heat would need

@@prowler1992 fwiw the math works out to like 60 cents per hour when the unit kicked into running 24/7 mode to heat the house. If it ran for 18 out of 24 hours that’s like $12 per day of heat (looking at his charts) for only 1550 square feet of house. Dropping the house temp to like 65 and/or outside temps above 0F would certainly help a lot.

hey hey @basspig - how did it do in the summer and what was the square footage of the space?

Dave Va have you tracked your electric bill or the electric usage for your Mr Cool? If so what are the results?

I'd like to see the COP vs. outside temp. Better yet, amperage draw. I have an LG that is similar. In Feb we went through one of the coldest periods in the last 50 years. Our LG units are ductless mini-splits of the 20 SEER range, LG Red rated for -5 and 100%. As the temperatures dropped the old ancient Lennox heat pump started blowing cold air when the thermometer hit about 24 degrees. The ducts are in the attic and the unit just could not produce enough heat to even overcome the slinky heat loss. At that point I shut the unit down and closed the vents in the ceiling. I took out the heat strips in our central air heat pump. Mini-splits: There is one 9kbtu unit at one end of the L shaped house and one 18kbtu at the other in the den that has LOTS of windows. Construction of about 850 sq-ft is new with foamed 6" walls and R-22 or so in the ceiling. The core 1600 sq-ft is older construction with 6" or about R-19 bats n the walls and the same blown R-22 in the ceiling. The two little mini-splits kept 2650 sq-ft of house warm all the way down to our low of -12. The coldest temp at the most distant location of the house was 68 degrees. Our utility has smart meters and we can get reports of consumption down to the hour. Our worst day averaged a temp of 4 degrees and our power consumption was 128.28 kwh. The worst hour was the -12 and 4.55 kwh. It takes more power to run the hot water heater. I need to replace the old Lennox. It is 24 years old. The question now is with what? A) Inverter type ducted air handler. B) Zoned ceiling cassette mini-split unit C) go for broke with geothermal to heat the central part of the house? We had propane for an emergency and we never used it. We now have a good soapstone wood stove for passive backup if we ever need it.

I imagine what is meant by ‘100% efficient @ -5F’ is that the heat pump will deliver the same heat at -5F as heat strips would. So I’m thinking below -5F resistive heat strips are more efficient at heating, even if the heat pump still delivers effective heat. Mind you that I’d expect 300-400% efficiency in more moderate conditions. Here in MidTN we rarely have a winter night approaching 0, so even though I’ve got the wire and breaker for it, I’m not installing heat strips. I’ll take the minor efficiency hit if we have some crazy low temps in the future.

Compared to propane you will save a ton of money at any tempture. Go to: Maine Energy.org to see cost for all fuels.

It's not reading Double the actual power, 3 tons is 36000 BTU's and 10,550 watts hours so in those temperatures the COP dropping due to the fact that the heat pump is near to balance point, so the COP is about 2, and probably the heat pump will not deliver 36,000 BTU's in those temperatures so it's even less than 2 COP.

Heck yeah!

Thanks so much!!

That's because they want to sell you an expensive traditional unit. HVAC industry has a monopoly hold in the US. Traditional HVAC manufacturers won't even talk to a homeowner.

Thank you very much!

We will be publishing a lot more information about this pilot project on our website later this year.

4700 Watts is approx $0.56 per hour == $13.50 all day == $400 per month. This is 100% duty cycle - your cost will vary based upon usage.

And that's just for the heat pump. We had an estimate from a company for a change out on our electric furnace, with no AC, was 2400$, got an estimate that was a heat pump, 14,000$.

Glad it helped!

i was thinking of buying bitcoin miners as room heaters (seriously) but this system is a lot cheaper to run

That's a popular choice.

I have a 24K BTU Senville unit that is rated to heat down to -22F. In use it still provided heat at -35F, but as you say less. I have the same size 1 1/2 story and the 24K unit heats it great, I'll have the house at 78-80F in the winter if I leave it run. Uses 2500 watts full on in winter, so I cycle it on and off depending on if I'm home, and leave the furnace at 67F for base heat when I'm not there. We are building hyper efficient homes now that are 15 times tighter than stick construction, and need much less energy to heat. www.energypositivehomes.us

That is in the works.

@@MrcoolComfort , Do you have a rough estimate on a timeline for the downflow air handler?

Not at this time.

@@MrcoolComfort I would buy one today if you did there is a large market for down flow to use in double wide homes.

You can find out more on our website. mrcool.com/mrcool-dc-inverter-heat-pump-air-conditioner-split-condenser/

Check out: villageofartisans.com/product/36000-btu-mrcool-diy-do-it-yourself-16-seer-ductless-mini-split-inverter-air-conditioner-heat-pump-with-25-ft-installation-kit-free-shipping-copy/

The system scales up as needed. It always starts out at a lower capacity, and then scales as necessary to meet the set temperature.

@@MrcoolComfort Is the air handler a variable speed blower?

That wouldn't be crazy. We had the Universal running at twenty below in North Dakota. I don't think you get those temperatures in South Carolina very often, so you should be fine.

It's called MrCool because that is their company name. They made their bones on DIY ductless AC units. I think heat pumps like this are a fantastic alternative for folks who live in the sticks or live in areas where natural gas is unavailable meaning we have to purchase expensive fossil fuels to be delivered to our homes. I just installed this unit myself due to that exact reason. If i had a natural gas furnace I don't think I'd bother. As an air conditioner, it's working amazing! not sure yet how it'll perform in the winter.

Long term thinking. Natural gas is bad for the environment, along with the massive amounts of C02 it produces. Right now if you can simply put in solar that takes care of all the electricity you need, and then some, you'd be more than carbon neutral and could heat your house for "free".

Seeing your breath requires more than just cold. It is a combination of temperature and humidity. If the humidity is off, you won't see your breath no matter how cold it gets.

The Universal has a 10.5 HSPF.

You'd have water on the windows at those low temps outside.

A heat pump is one unit that can both heat and cool.

@@MrcoolComfort I am sold then! Love this stuff and the quietness and not burning gas is absolutely beautiful. Thanks.

Idek how it works but it seems legit

Most central heating units require electricy to function, regardless of the source of thermal energy (natural gas, propane, oil, pellet fuel). I'd imagine a wood stove is a good idea in North Dakota.

tthomaselli2 lol

Please call tech support at 270-366-0457.

I'm sorry, we cannot. A local contractor installed the thermostat. As we had multiple independent sensors placed around the house, and connected directly to the Universal, we have no reason to believe it was malfunctioning.

That comes down to where you live and your local utility costs. In mild climates with low cost electricity, the Universal can definitely compete with gas furnace in terms of cost.

In a central air system the air handler and condenser would typically be wired separately.

It’d actually be less expensive because on average the unit won’t be running 24/7

We plan to put it somewhere hot this summer (depending on, y'know, how things go with social distancing, etc).

@@MrcoolComfort I am about to do a similar install in CA. I just placed the order. I'll record every step of the process!

Try not just hot as a simple swamp cooler does well.in low humidity, try an area when the temps hit 95-100 with 98% humindity.

@@MrcoolComfort Come back to grand forks it gets hot as balls there in July/ August.

@@donniebrown2896 So grand Forks in July/August?

In this case, the 3 ton.

A heat pump can also be used as an air conditioner so you get two systems for the price of one with them, they are a good deal. Most The houses in my area seem too come with heat pymps, I live in the south where winters aren't as brutal though and older heat pumps didn't work well with brutal winters. Modern ones like this could also work well up north.

Heat pumps have move components so more of a chance for them to fail. Units from the 80s and 90s seem to have last 25+ years. New ones 10years

We used a local company in Grand Forks. Installation cost for HVAC equipment will vary widely depending on where in the country you live.

If you install it yourself in your own home with the Quick Connect lines, you get the full warranty coverage (i.e. - 10 year parts).

Yes, it can.

Give us a call at 270-366-0457, and we can explain our warranty process in detail.

The line set is pre-charged, so you don't have to do that. However, using the pre-charged line is not required for the Universal.

@@MrcoolComfort That is really cool. I like what I see

@@MrcoolComfort I would appreciate if you could send my day some price info, We run a HVAC company here in Knoxville Tn. " Arctic Air Service Co." That would be awesome. Im looking at one for myself as well. My Dads email is Dennis.AAS@gmail.com and mine is Shadehope27@gmail,com Thank you.

We will have someone from our team reach out!

@@MrcoolComfort awesome. thank you guys,It gives me options as well. customers can buy it and have me to hook it up if there not comfortable. I love how they perform. Thanks again.

We always use the quick sling Where I work

Not necessarily. You only need a coupler kit for the Universal if you need a longer than usual line set.

Our DIY ductless mini-split can heat in cold weather, but it is not as effective as the Universal heat pump. The Universal is specifically built to deliver that kind of performance.

My Mitsubishi mini split (bought in 2014) doesn’t do well below 30 degrees. Matter of fact, i turn it off and use a space heater. It’s worthless at that temp.

Depending on your lowest low temperatures, the Universal could be an option.

I wondered that too. I wonder if the fan speed is just set high? I would assume that would have to be a variable speed air handler.

@jeb721 Air handler is not variable speed. The motor is brushless dc and speed setting low med high with on board dip switches.

We had planned to install the Universal in Lake Havasu, Arizona for the summer of 2020. But then COVID happened. Hopefully, we can do that in 2021. One quick note: the Universal is not a mini-split. It is a central heating and air conditioner.

The current model is not, but there will be a high static air handler available this summer.

Any condenser mounting bracket of the appropriate weight class would work.

It is way cheaper to run our Universal than to warm your home with space heaters. This particular installation generated an electric bill of about $200.

The Universal is a central system. In heating, the condensate would collect on the condenser. It has a defrost mode to melt any ice buildup.

@@MrcoolComfort ok thanks for the info! I'm debating on putting one in South Dakota but it looks like it works in North Dakota so I should be fine.

you can install aux heat into it for emergencies

10.5

The 4-5 Ton Universal will be available later this year. We are working on a match for a downflow air handler.

@@MrcoolComfort This is good to know, thanks.

The heat pump generates heat, and you can also install a heat kit for back up.

Only forced air at this time.

@@MrcoolComfort Any plans to support hydronics in the future? I’m in St. Louis in a full masonry historic home typical of older cities. The best heat in this kind of building is hydronic radiators of some type. If that could be paired with hydronic fan coils for cooling, it would be the ideal solution for historic homes like mine.

We did not install a heat strip on this particular installation, but the Universal can accommodate a heat strip.

It would not be operating effectively at -46F.

Use gas or wood backup. Run it to -20. Should save money

It's doing well!

We have a ductless system with 3 ceiling cassettes and a wall mount hyper heat unit all running off of my 4 ton outdoor unit and we are very happy with it.

Yes, you do not need additional parts to switch between the 2 and 3 ton modes. Yes, I believe those are the correct AHRI ratings.

@@MrcoolComfort I sent in a website form request asking MrCool to confirm this, but have not received a response for a few days. Could MrCool please repond to my request via email so I can provide the written information to my utility so they will approve my rebate application? They are denying my rebate application unless I get manufacturer confirmation that the unit I have will meet or exceed the AHRI ratings of SEER 15 and EER 12.5. I will take photos showing my units dip switches set for 2 ton operation.

Generally, homeowners use ahridirectory.org to get the AHRI ratings. The AHRI certified reference number for the Universal 2-3 ton is 205572573.

@@MrcoolComfort That AHRI reference number is only one of two that apply to the 2-3 ton system. For the rebate, my utility is scrutinizing which one it should be, 204117201 or 205572573 My question I emailed to MrCool is to confirm that setting the dip switches to 2 ton setting will change the unit to have AHRI number 205572573, versus if the dip switches are are set to default 3 ton setting it is AHRI number 204117201. AHRI 204117201 does NOT meet the minimum EER rating to qualify for my utility rebate.

Yes, setting the 2 ton dip switch changes it to AHRI 205572573.

The DIY works down to 5 degrees. The DIY Multi-Zone will work in negative temps. The best performer is, of course, our Hyper Heat unit. When it comes to mini-splits that is.

I'm not familiar with a Cascade system. The refrigerant is R-410A.

You only see Cascade systems in low temp freezer applications