@@jeff-millieesterline4209 the grading system only requires 100w USBc power delivery so it didn't lose points for this 'bug'. The 12v DC output still is limited below 150w so it doesn't gain a point there. Great question!
@@Jasonoid Thank you... I was hoping the update fixed some of the other DC issues, as I just ordered one for $1399. Thank you very much for the great job you do. I also loved the video using the server rack battery as that was something you and I talked about several months ago. Great job!
Jason points this out in the video, just not all at one timestamp. Although the AC200L supports up to 20 Amps AC input, the supplied cable is the US standard 15 Amp plug (NEMA 5-15P). To prevent you pulling 20A through a 15A plug (and possibly 15A household wiring) and creating a fire hazard, the AC200L is capped to 12A AC input in firmware. To achieve the 20A AC input, you must purchase a cable that supports more than 15 Amps, verify your household wiring (I assume), talk to Bluetti support, and enter the support given secret password. At that point, you can set the Max AC amps the Bluetti will pull. As an aside, there is a YTer who has been advocating that US plugs should contain a fuse, as UK plugs are required to have - or as we see on Christmas lights or with Lasko fans. This is a perfect use case! In the event someone attempts to pull 20A through a 15A plug connected to a 20Amp household circuit, the plug fuse would blow before the cable could heat and potentially cause a fire (the 20A household breaker / household wiring would be fine and not trip.) Yes, fuses are an annoyance - but they can be an important safety mechanism.
I can't believe that America is still using half the volts but doubling the current, that's just more dangerous - and now they won't give you cables rated to run at the peak design because they'll create a risk 😂. Just adopt 230-240v @ 10 amps max and your 15A cable will work fine without fire risk or getting the electricals verified. lol for such an advanced country, so far behind in electrical standards
@@joebloggs6131 in america 110 volt will throw you off of it and out 220 will hold on to you and fry yer ass.. .. we just aint figured out the safety part over here.. by the way what do you use 48 volt dc power for.....
Thank you for your review,as a scientist (physics) I like detailed numbers. Your grading chart is very good for what it covers which is more than I can find in most places. The shortfall I notice in all reviews I have seen is the expandable battery cost/weight issue. I have found it is less expensive and more efficient to get 2 basic units rather than 1 additional battery. The 2 basic units can be used in 2 places at once,cost less.and gives redundant backup in the control system i.e. if i basic unit breaks down or is somewhere else I still have access to the full capabilities of 1 base unit while the other is being replaced or returned. The b230 costs $1000-$1200 (U.S.) so for $299 more I can have a backup to my backup, use one while recharging the other, or use in 2 separate locations.
in 2023 I bought the AC200 MAX for car camping and possible extened home power outages. In camp I charge it with an Off Grid TREK 220 watt solar blanket WHILE running hate smaller ICECO cooler/freezer all day. On returning to camp I find the AC200 MAX fully charged and the cooler temperature at 34 F. as I had set it. Then I charge my 2 battery, 2 wheel drive E-CELLS mountain bike for the next day's hunt or exploration. So yep, it all works just fine. Ain't high tech great?!
Another detailed review, THANK YOU Jason. Now my comments: I was looking at this for the last 2 weeks and just about ordered one, but as I have 2 of the AC180s and @ $670 ($1350 for 2) they provide over 2300Wh combined, 1800 Watts of AC each, 4 outlets each, 35 lbs. each and each have a Wireless charging pad and I can locate each one in a separate location, i.e. 2 different refrigerators/freezers. The AC200L provides a higher AC inverter wattage, and I really like the PV input ranges as 145 volts/15 amp/1200 watts, is very doable (would prefer 20 amp, but 😎) . I also agree with other commenters regarding the cables, proprietary cables are costly and hard to find. I like the standard PC cable for AC, XT60 or Anderson for PV. You can find or make them up easily and inexpensive. I also do not like the upgraded AC cable, at an additional charge, to accomplish what they advertise as maximum charging wattage. They should include it instead of the smaller cable. Another issue is requiring a password, from Bluetti, to achieve the highest charge setting. I believe that is Bluetti's way to document fast charging in case of any warranty issues. Need to read the fine print on the warranty. All in all, I will pass on this one and be happy with my Bluetti collection, as is.
I just purchased a BLUETTI AC200L unit and was delighted to find your more in depth review with actual detailed measurement data and thoughtfully critical review. It is also nice to know Solar takes priority over wall power for charging. The only feature missing that I'd like to have in this mid-size unit is a “Grid Tie” option. Basically, if you have a kilowatt of solar on the roof and the battery is full, why let all the excess power go to waste? Put it back into your house, or if you're generating enough, let the neighbors have it through your grid connection and run your meter backward at the same time. Or get yourself a Rivian truck and use the 30A outlet to charge the truck through the AC200L off solar, supplemented with grid power at night. The AC200L might be a little light weight for this at 2.4KW, but it should be possible, which might also be nice if you're camping with an EV/RV. I bought the AC200L unit because I keep blowing a housebreaker when I run an electric chipper. The AC200L has 20A outlets and I have 3x 275W solar panels I'm not using which can supplement AC input. I'll try this solution to see how it works.
I was just looking through the manual online and page 30 says that the depth of discharge is 95% for this model and the inverter is claimed to be 93% efficient. Also, the self-consumption of the unit is approximately 12watts. So, it looks like Bluetti is fine tuning efficiency for getting more of the available watt hours to the load. Your 89% efficiency seems to verify that. Thanks for doing your testing. Good review. Been watching your reviews all along but this time I subscribed.
I love that they keep improving, but at this point, the updates have been so incremental that I’d be worried to even buy one for fear that a newer version with one key upgrade would be released shortly after.
Finally a reviewer that knows what he is talking about!!! I was waiting for a real review to decide between the Mega 2 and the L. Nobody at BLUETTI has given me a straight answer about the 48v plug. I’m connecting the device to my RV and want reliable high amp 12v dc. The L has a plug with a 48v output to a d40 box that hasn’t been released yet and the mega 2 has a dedicated 30a Anderson 12v. What is your opinion between the two?
I always evaluate based on what exists. Until the 48V solution is available, there is no high power DC form this product. I used Anderson Power Poles in DC distribution systems for years and consider them a solid solution.
@@rcguymikeOf course, but that is another item that is needed for the purpose, and that needs to be accounted for. Their own device is clearly going to be something of the kind. There is even an advantage here. It is possile you can get an external DC-DC converter that is more efficent than the built on one on a competitor, or the soon-to-be available OEM device.
Any positive /negative comments on Bluetti customer service - this is a big purchase and I would really be disappointed if they don't provide good support.
They revamped their customer support in the beginning of 2023. It's definitely improved over the last year. I have had much less negative comments on my Bluetti videos. You could always call them over the phone and test it out.
Thanks for your time reviewing the AC200L. I have the AC180 but thinking of getting the AC200L because of almost double the watt hours. The solar input of 1,200w at 145v is higher than the AC180. So I can plug my 1,200watt solar array I use for the AC300 into the AC200L if needed and not worry that it is to much power input. Our power grid provider is getting worse keeping city power up. Just last weekend we lost power for 2.5 hours. At 4 hours you start to lose food in the refrigerator. And as you mentioned food is now so expensive. So the AC200L maybe dedicated to the frig.
Very thorough review, you have a deep understanding of these devices. Answered a lot of questions I had about the new unit. I have the AC200 Max and was looking to get an additional unit.
I'd pick the AC200L just for the built in AC wall charger. Also while the 48V output is an interesting pick, I definitely see the benefit with this setup, as with a high voltage comes less energy loss in the cable, and 48V also means you can directly power a Starlink dish with no converter.
Appreciate the added oscilloscope testing/info gathering!! The refrig test as always is appreciated. I think this one ran multiple hrs longer than similar watt-hour units you've tested and still was at 7% when you stopped the test. Great result. 👍 My theory is the "idle efficiency" impact shows up in this kind of testing since the refrig has "no load" b/w cycling, and this is a substantial part of the time. (And, yea, the AC converter efficiency I'm sure is a piece too.) Just fyi encase it is kind of "hidden" in your testing, the drawdown curve to 0% isn't always linear with no load change. My Delta 2 Max goes down much faster at the roughly 10%-0% range then 100%-10%. Something like twice or three times as fast under the same loading. (Not worth an RMA though. My River 2 Pro doesn't have this issue. Hopefully overtime firmware upgrades will reduce/eliminate this problem.) I'm not asking for any changes in your testing. Just an fyi since your testing is top tier! Thank you!!
It seems all brands program their screen percentages a little differently. I wish I had access to the inside of the battery so I could check the exact power flowing through the wires from the inverter to the battery at idle. Thanks for watching and providing your feedback!
Finally, they made a station with backwards compatibility, the past year it seemed like all they wanted to do was make new batteries for their new power stations.
I bought my MAX for running the power needs in my van. Them doing away with the 12V 30A is a huge bummer as that was one of the best features that most of the other brands lack.
Excellent review. Having only a single usable 100W USB-C port wouldn't bother me (there are workarounds, like using 12VDC and/or 120VAC adapters), but what REALLY bothers me is the proprietary charging cables, especially the AC cable. Why not a standard computer-type AC cable? It's something to lose, forget, or wear out, just when you need it. /TILT/, sorry, for me that's going to be a dealbreaker, before even getting to the similar issue with the DC cable. If they're going to convert to a XT90, why not just start with that plug? The charging speed (and options) and AC output on this one look great, but it won't make my short list.
The standard IEC C13/C14 computer charging cable can only safely push 15A in the US or 1800W. To reach the max charge speed of 2400W which is 120V @ 20A they had to use a different receptacle. This is also why the larger AC300 and AC500 stations which support up to 3000W and 5000W of AC input power respectively can't use standard computer power cables and connectors. The smaller AC180 uses a standard IEC computer charging cable to support the station's 1440W max AC charging speed at 12A.
If that 48v connector lets you interface with more rack batteries that'd be ideal, but I can see Bluetti allowing you to do that. Same if it let you discharge to grid via another inverter.
Mega kudos for EMI testing! More testers need to pay attention to this important test. Typically, the inverters are not the noise EMI/RFI noise generation problem source. The DC charging is. Have you performed any RFI/EMI noise tests at HF (1.8MHz to 30MHz) and VHF (130MHz to 440MHz) while charging from DC? If this is an MPPT charger, those of us wanting to use this as power for radio communications over HF and VHF need to know this. Many MPPT chargers are not FCC compliant and render receivers nearly useless.
@@Jasonoid It is not the output that is typically the issue. It is the DC charging side. The MPPT chargers these units are using are horrific. Test the noise (EMI/RFI) at HF and VHF frequencies (1.8MHz - 450MHz) while the MPPT is getting full solar power. Way above audio and AM frequencies.
@@SLCompulsion way above my radio knowledge 😮 I didn't test that specifically on this model (or any other model). It seems someone who is familiar with all that needs to test these power stations specifically.
Very compelling for 1500. I'd like to use it full time to power my office (about 600 to 1000w of computers and stuff). Love your 1000w renolgy portable array.
I would like to see a select-able auxiliary output; 12v 30A, OR, 48v. That shouldn't be hard to do. Note that the new Zero Breeze is running at 48VDC,... much more efficient. Also, it would help to also see the Wh that the fridge uses. This can vary greatly between fridges, and might be more useful to folks. Great timing on this review...Black Friday!
Great idea with the swappable voltage output. That would be awesome for a power station to have both 12v and 48v available (even better if they were available at the same time). I have always wondered why these don't just have a port available for the direct battery output.
The AC200L runs at 51.2V, the plug voltage seems to be 51.2 until the last minutes of life where it goes down to 48v. But the plug is protected by a data pin, which makes it useless. So Bluetti must sell a cable that activate the current and send it to anderson plug. Then maybe hopefully we can plug a converter 48v8a to 12v30. But the D40 module they talk won’t help. It can only charge a battery. The only possibility is the anderson cable and buying a converter on Amazon. A bluetti tech comfirmed the d40 cannot convert to 12v30a to plug directly on a fuse box. It seems to be a regulator that combine multiple source of energy, stabilize it for clean battery charging. I don’t the difference at the end. It should be 12v for the battery. So why it cannot be use directly to a 12v fuse box source? Maybe a specialist can give us some explanation..
I’m glad to see that 12A is default, as that is the 80% of a 15a residential circuit or code compliant. That way the average consumer who doesn’t understand electricity will not burn their house down by placing a 15A load on a 12A circuit.
Just ordered the AC200L with the Black Friday Bluetti discount and I was also able to use your $100 discount code. Great price. I currently have a AC200P that I plan to replace (but still keep) with the AC200L. Looking forward to having the larger inverter, faster DC and AC recharge times, and wifi/bluetooth. I currently have the AC200P hooked up to a 6 circuit manual transfer switch and with this I use the sogen to power the kitchen refrigerator, lights, a few outlets, and furnace blower motor for as long as solar input and battery keep things running each day. On days there are severe storms forcasted, I keep the unit charged but turned off as a backup in case of power loss. Oh yeah, the 12V - 145V solar input is a bonus so I can charge this thing with my 2 x 12.8V 100Ah Power Queen batteries (24V in series) and skip using the boost converter I needed with the 200P.
Have the Max 200 and one battery with four 200 watt panels. Also the Bluetti EB2400. Problem with the Max 200 uses way too much energy with nothing attached where the Eb2400 on four 100 panels is a great work horse on these cloudy rainy days. Totally off grid, so keeping the low amp refrigerator running if the priority. Since already invested with the Max extra battery this new model L, might be the improvement...
Inverter Noise Measurements: AC200L 1425mv | AC200MAX 1650mv -|- However, your spreadsheet indicates AC200L as having inverter noise and "none" for the AC200MAX. Can you explain how this could be?
To test the sign wave, connect non linear load of at least 1500watt and monitor the wave. Batter even is to measure the THD. Seeing the shape of the wave tell a little about the quality of the power.
That is a very high reading for Dirty Electricity. We have success with pairs of Greenwave Plug-in filters to bring that DE figure way down to 40mV, which is considered low noise. Also, way better for a person's health living in their RV...
I got the 200Max based on your earlier review. I’m happy with it generally except for that damn charging brick and slow charge rate. The unit they sent you had a silent brick. The one I got had the noisy fan which is on ALL the time it’s plugged in. So this one looked perfect until you got to the DC. They dump the 30amp plug which is what I use 80% of the time and stick you with a cigarette plug and 10 amps?? It’s 2023, when will they get rid of that ancient technology? They have adapter plugs for everything else imaginable!
I was pretty let down when I saw the new specs. The AC200MAX was the bomb, with these simple upgrades and keeping the 30amp output would have been amazing.... Not a fan of the newer change away from high DC output.
'MERICA... 🇺🇸 Unfortunately those are the electrical standards in your country as opposed to other continents that run twice the voltage but half the current to achieve those same watts. If you got with the program, Bluetti could make you a better unit (2x AC outputs at twice the power, rather than the 4x AC outputs at half the power, each). I just got an AC180 here in Australia, and it's an awesome unit, perhaps the AC200L in the Aussie standards will be the unit that all you Americans want but as yet can't attain.
@@Jasonoid Can own guns here too, just need to get a weapons licence that means you know how to safely store the weapon, and keep ammunition separately. Really reduces the risk of getting shot in 5th Grade Math Class
Excellent presentation. Thank you. Really disappointed with the DC 12/48v output options. It will be interesting to see what kind of gizmo they come up with for the 48v output and how much that costs. Not really thrilled with the USB ports as you discuss. All of the newest Bluetti’s seem to for home use at 120v-AC and not for folks with trucks/vans/camping. Pecron and Oupes both are doing a far better job for the truck/van/vamping crowd.
Yes, the cost of the D40 that will take the output of the 48 volt at 8 amps socket will be a key factor. But 48 volts at 8 amps is 384 watts. 384 watts at 12 volts is 32 amps. So, depending on the efficiency of the D40 conversion down to 12 volts, it probably will still give you the 30 amps(maybe even a little more) that the MAX provides.
Hey @jasonoid, bluetti has put out a firmware update for the usbc ports that fixes* the problem you mentioned. You are able to pull more watts from the ports. Its not 200w total, but it looks like you're able to pull up to 150-180w now.
Great in-depth review Jason. I like it better for sure over the ac200max but yea the usbc at 140? I tested the same and was wondering what was going on lol.
Fantastic review @Jasonoid -- Probably the best one I've seen on this product. Thank you for the discount code, I hope you get credit with Bluetti for the purchase. 😃Looking forward to your next video. 🎉
Much improved, but they swapped one external device (AC brick) for another (the 48V converter). The 48V port would make sense if there was an ecosystem in place to use it, but that is not yet in evidence. The unusable 100W USB-C is just a waste of space, and an unforced own goal). The non-standard power adapter for AC that is also limited in capacity just looks like a way to nickle and dime the customer.
Great review. The USB-C limit is likely a thermal problem that was missed and now they can’t fix it. The 48V output baffles me. Probably cost cutting as the internal bus is likely 48 V and this allowed them to remove the 48->12V 30A buck converter and make users pay for it separately with an overpriced box that includes $$ sunk into a special connector, cable and enclosure. Noisy AC and poor DC. This one’s a big miss.
I think you are spot on with the USBc limit and the move to a 48v output on cost savings. The price is a bit less than last generation. Thanks for your insight!
Kind of a bummer about the USB-C ports. Most multiport USB-C chargers will limit other ports to a lower wattage as needed instead of dropping all loads. That is a really poor design and shows Bluetti's ignorance of the USB PD negotiation specifications. The inverter noise is a bit odd for a unit this expensive especially considering their AC60 is clean. The UPS transfer time at 13ms is wonderful. Custom UPS mode is cool too. Will you be reviewing the AC70?
Jason I can always count on you for an excellent honest review 👍 Bluetti still hasn’t won me over with anything yet PS I have yet to see the join button 🤷🏼♀️
After reviewing your fantastic video, I happened to notice not once did you mention a word about the RV 30amp cord!! If bluetti has deleted that popular option in my opinion, that would be a grave mistake on bluetti's part. Im in the market to power my RV with that RV 30 amp cord. I guess I'll my money $$$ with another company to meat my needs. Hello Delta pro!!
I prefer the 30A 12V DC output to this. Puzzling decision, which gets a pass from me in terms of buying this unit. I generally look for the best DC capability I can find, as it suits my RV and off-grid needs better than AC on the whole.
Customer service is in the tank again. Tried several days and no one was available. Currently emailing with customer service because my AC200L will not charge through my Honda EU2000i inverter generator and they are currently working on the firmware. My suspicion is someone disabled or limited the AC charging and without it, this power station is worthless in an emergency situation with storms or loudspeakers and the grid down. I hope Bluetti can get their act together or their sales will go down when people find out their limitations.
oh yeah read the manual 🤣🤣 what a jokester. still impressed with that oscilloscope measurement of the switch over time, and 13ms is very fast, good job bluetti bummer on the 2x100 watt usb ports, it sure does hurt if you expect to get 200 watts out but are limited to 140, i can see a bunch of folk thinking they got a defective unit and returning it. re voltage output, 12v 30 amp would be my prefered over the 48v 8a thanks again for your in-depth review Jason
Hi, Could you elaborate on what the magic box is or step down in relation to the 48v output please? Trying to figure out how to use the ac200L to power my 12v rv system as well. Thanks in advance
Agree. I don't know who they're marketing to with a 48V output? And to use it in a van life scenario, they want you to buy another component?? That kind of defeats the 'all in one' concept. 🤷♂️
Like the review, but actually ended up going with the OUKITEL P5000 Power Station. For the price of two of these you get 3 times the capacity. Though at the cost of it being around 100 lbs . Hopefully you will get the chance to review that one at some point. For myself I enjoy the UPS mode and the built-in handle and wheels, but would love to know what someone with a full test suite might uncover.
The Oukitel P5000 is very similar to the P2001, just a bigger battery. Has a lot of the same features and performance. The UPS is fairly fast and the USB ports perform well. Good choice on that model, I like the price for performance on Oukitel power stations.
Lots of upgrades. Especially the AC charge option. The missing 12V 30A. Now makes is unusable for RV setups. Do note, you can't shut the units off when PV is putting power in. You need to disconnect it first. Not sure why that is?
I have an AC200Max. My only complaint is the weight. I may be moving into an RV next year so I may go for a AC 180 for the RV since its easier to carry. I am hoping they can reduce the weight on the batteries. I just got the BougeRV CIGS Panels. Two, 200 watt panels. I just tested the first panel. Its great. I will set up the next panel this weekend. Then I will hook both panels up and test them out.
on the driveway lying flat, In the afternoon sun, panel not in prime position. I was getting 101 watts@@Jasonoid I need to watch a video on how to hook up the second CIGS panel. Then I will hook up the Bluetti PV 350. Not sure how to hook up all three? It may make a good video for you.
Just got the Second CIGS Panel hooked up in Series. Works great, on a cloudy/sunny day with panels in a bad position in the driveway, lying flat. I am pulling in 172 watts. Fluctuating with passing clouds and low, winter afternoon sun.@@Jasonoid
I just purchased with your code. I unfortunately had to return my Pecron E1500LFP. It was perfect but made all lights flicker to the point I couldn’t stand it. I suspect there was a problem with the AC inverter sine wave coming out. I’m really excited about the AC200L though.
@@JasonoidI was sending back videos using all kinds of different LEDs and it was always the same. I even bought a cheap oscilloscope to help diagnose, I was really set on trying to fix it. BLUETTI works for me because of the high solar input voltage. Everyone else maxes out at 60v whereas they go up to 145v. Last thing I want to do is remove the panels and wire them in parallel to drop the voltage.
Argh, so close again. This could have been the ‘perfect’ 2000wh sogen, but they had to go and mess with the DC outputs. And what’s with the noisy inverter when it was better on the previous model? I guess at least it audibly runs quieter. Also a shame they spent time messing with the DC circuits instead of adding something like 240v parallel operation. Really torn now with whether to wait until May for the new Montek sogens. Thank you again for the thorough review, particularly real world use as a semi-permanent setup. Any word on whether the AC turns back on automatically if it runs flat but has solar plugged in? What’s with Bluetti churning out all these model variants lately? They’re not even consistent with features. With the battery being the most expensive component by far (along with maybe the inverter) wouldn’t it make more sense to keep most features the same and just scale the battery and inverter for different price points?
I have noticed very random features between the models as well. Not sure who's in charge but it's like they have different teams working on different models at the same time and don't communicate. Each new launch is a surprise what it will have! The AC inverter does not turn on automatically once it starts charging back up. You'll have to turn it back on with the smart app or button on the front.
What do you think of the AC200L?! Post a comment and let me know! Bluetti AC200L Official Website: shrsl.com/4b7r3 * SAVE $100 BY USING THE DISCOUNT CODE: JASON200L * (Valid from : Nov 17th - 30th on Bluetti's Official Website only) Bluetti Amazon Link: amzn.to/3un2eS3 Bluetti Black Friday+Cyber Monday Sales: shrsl.com/4b7r5
I like the new UPS and WiFi features. I do however have my concerns about the 48V outlet. More so now that you and only you so far have mentioned that the 48V cable is "proprietary cable". I would like to know what makes it a proprietary cable and why one can't make their own cable with aftermarket items? (FYI - I've based my 12V RV system on the 200MAX 12V/30A outlet and NO 12V house batteries. I had planned to solely use the Bluetti to run the entire 12V system when on the road. But I have since found the fan noise bugs me with the range of my hearing. So I would love to move to the 200L with it's upgraded feathers and it being quieter vs the 200MAX. I am hoping I would be able to make a 48V cable and use an aftermarket 48V to 12V Step Down Converter connected to a separate 12V 6 to 8 circuit fuse panel.) I would really like your input on this matter. Thanks for your time and help. Sincerely, Tony
Thank you for sharing your review. Two years ago, I opted for the AC200Max with 2*B230 for my van build instead of pursuing a DIY approach using Battle Born batteries and Victron components. Overall, I remain content with my implementation, except for two significant challenges. Firstly, the battery expansion cables are excessively bulky, requiring a specific stacking arrangement that consumes a considerable amount of space in my van. Secondly, the car charging via the cigarette lighter port is impractical, highlighting the need for a turnkey solution in the van build community for fast car charging. (btw, I like your 5X Faster Charging video) While the AC200L offers numerous impressive features, it has yet to address these specific issues. It would be highly beneficial if Bluetti could develop an integration kit for vans and RVs, similar to the EcoFlow Power Kit solution, to enhance the product and perhaps capture more buyers from the Adventure Van/ RV community.
You tested this as a replacement for the AC200 max, but other channels have described as a cheaper version of the AC200 max noting it isn't rated as high to reduce the price.
I'm not sure I agree with that idea quite so much. What isn't rated as high? For example, the battery capacity is the same as the AC200MAX (2048wh) and the inverter is larger at 2400w. The charging components are also upgraded to charge much faster via AC and solar input. The only thing that's 'lessor' is the removal of the 30amp DC output and the wireless charging pads. In my opinion the price is lower because the technology isn't as cutting edge as before and they have increased efficiency in the manufacturing process. We have seen the same price cuts on other brands which is normal as technology gets more common.
I didn't mean rated as high as in capacity. Others said not as good all around unit as the AC200 Max. I like your reviews and really doesn't matter to me since I have the ACX200 max and am happy with it. Thanks again. @@Jasonoid
@@gregghershberger7968 I just feel Bluetti has no direction right now. The AC200max is an excellent product but this one is interesting... Who made the design calls on this one? They used to have uniformity between models and now each one seems super random. Their lineup is just a super weird mixture of products that don't quite line up with what people are looking for.
Hi Jason. In your opinion, will the new 48 volt output allow for daisy chaining my old 200 max into the new 200 L ? this would essentially turn the old 200 Max into an expansion battery. If this is the case, I would buy the new 200L instead of an B230 battery.
The AC200L has the 48v output, which you could use to charge your AC200Max (since the power is coming out of the AC200L). I think that would be an efficient 'Expansion battery' option.
Dc is a Bummer on this, I actually like using the 5521 ports instead of the cigarette lighter ports, they took those away, they took wireless charging away, the max of 140 watts load is a let down. My only other gripe on this is they took away the touchscreen. But other than those things I love this, and that new expansion battery seems to be the new and improved version of the b230, I like that 48v plug. Imagine daisy chaining power stations with that.
Great review Ja son. I ha be been waiting for this ever since I heard about this unit. It is definitely a winner. I think I like this better than the Delta 2 Max. Mainly because they do a better job with expansion batteries. I also don’t like a EcoFlow not including solar cables. Would love your opinion between this and the Delta 2 Max, or between the AC180 and the Delta 2.
The Delta 2 and AC180 are very similar, same with the AC200L and the Delta 2 Max. It's hard to chose one over the other unless I know the exact use case because they do have their advantages in certain areas haha
So I bought a delta 2 due to price even though I was leaning toward the ac180. We also got 3 ac180’s for work. Both great units. However I am now glad I got the delta 2. Their app is just more sophisticated than the Bluetti, it allows you to choose a specific charge rate and floor and ceiling. So unless you need the couple hundred extra wh, I would recommend the Delta 2 right now. I do prefer everything front facing on the ac180, and Bluetti theoretically could improve their app to be comparable. Like I said, both are great units and at the end of the day I would be happy with either, but right now I am glad I went with the Delta2.
@@davidcarrico3385 Thank you so much. This is very helpful. I currently own power stations from companies and agree with you. Seems lately, I have been seeing better deals on Bluetti units that EcoFlow, but maybe I am not looking very carefully. Another interesting thing is that each company usually has one feature the other does not have and I want, like the dual solar input on the Delta 2 max vs. the more capable expansion batteries on Bluetti. Thank you so much for your help.
@@litnoregrets7551 so true, my Delta 2 purchase was on prime day this summer when the ac180 was still 799. I wish the ac180 had managed expansion, as I would have waited and gotten that instead, as like you, I am very impressed with their expansion batteries. That’s one of the downsides of the delta2 expansion battery, it does nothing other than add capacity and they charge a higher premium than I think they should for that.
Yes, I have the AC 200 L power station I hooked up my 55 W dual refrigerator freezer and the next day I had 30% charge left. My trailer does not have air conditioning with the heat in the trailer cause it to drop sufficiently.?
I don't think that's heat, that's probably the background idle power usage of the inverter. Any other loads connected with the fridge? If the fridge is a DC fridge, you'll get WAY longer runtimes off the DC output.
great review. One thing I was wondering is with the 200 max if you just leave it plugged in to the AC brick to charge the fan will run 24/7 until you unplug the brick. Now that there is no longer a brick, will the fans in the fans stop running once the unit is charged to 100%?
The fans hardly run on the new model, they only run while needed. Much improved over the AC200max. Most of the time you won't hear them. They are very quiet. I've noticed they run mostly if you fast charge or if you have a large load on the inverter.
I don't have a HAM radio to test with, I did test with the small handheld AM radio though. If the radio is a couple feet away from the power station you shouldnt hear the noise.
142W on the 12V 142W total on the USBC outputs Rather coincidental. I wonder if it's 142W total across all the 12V and 5V DC outputs, or if they are just using the same buck circuit for each.
I tested both at the same time, I got around 250w from both... But yes... That's why I thought it was a firmware issue, and just needed to be 'reprogrammed'... I guess it wasnt that 'simple' haha
AC1800 does 500w solar input and has an 1800w inverter. The AC200L has 1200w solar input and a 2400w inverter. You can power more things at the same time with the larger model, along with faster charging.
I'll tell you what you need to know after buying one myself- this 70 lb unit is nice, but Bluetti in their infinite wisdom doesn't offer even a basic cover for it like Jackery or Ecoflow does, and the form factor is too big to fit in a closed rolling toolbox to get it up and down stairs or transport it protected. They market it for "Outside and Camping", but I guess they think sitting it on the ground in the dirt, heaving it around the house up and down to the basement, and letting it get scratched up is just fine. ITS NOT. If I had known there was no way to protect this expensive investment, I wouldn't have bought it.
Great review which I will share with my group. I'm wondering if there is a weakness here though when connecting an expansion battery. I want to buy this unit (as an upgrade from the AC200P) and I would like to connect my existing B230 battery to get me through the night. If the D050S charge enhancer is used to connect the B230 to the solar panels and then the B230 is connected to the AC200L via aviation cable to the Solar input on the AC200L, the B230 can still run out of power at night and sleep/die and will not be "woken up" by the AC200L if it still has some power. I dont think it can sense available power from the panels that could wake up and refill the B230. Am I wrong? Can you use the AC200L to automatically wake up the B230 so that it can start charging from the panels again ? I am looking for something that can run automatically and perpetually as long as weather cooperates. I could buy (2) B300 batteries but thats a lot of cheddar. I also have a third party 200ah LifePo4 battery but not sure if I can get that into the equation to keep the B230 awake.
Going from 12v/30a to 48v/8a just made this product obsolete in terms of powering diesel heaters most of us run in our vans. What were they thinking??!! Seriously, are they even talking to their users? One thing we all want is being able to charge this thing from a high output alternator - and it’s still not possible with this new version! And now they killed the only useful thing ac200max had - high power 12v/30a output. I’m speechless.
I'd love to see you cover charging directly from the alternator in a vehicle like Goal Zero Yeti.. at extra expense of a module. How can this be done with the Bluetti? I've seen folks chat about a Victron DC-DC charger.. others say no no.. Use a DC-DC converter. Help?
Hey Jason, just got my D40 and read in the Manual that when the DC Output is active, car and solar charging stops. Could you address this and any possible work around? This could kill my hopes to use this in my Skoolie build. I may have to go back to the 200MAX w/ the 12v/30amp output. Thx
about the USB C's. am seriously disappointed that they're not true 100+100w. but these ports are at least PPS capable, so they "should" super fast charge Pixel and Galaxy phones; faster than other units. (30/45w max each) also, i would be interested in the DC capacity test via the 48v port. shouldn't that be more efficient given that it's a closer voltage to the internal battery?
Yes, the USB ports seem to work as the stated 'power delievery' ratings (other than two 100w ports at the same time). The 48v should be fairly efficient by itself, adding the D40 on to it will add additional converting losses.
Good Morning .really enjoyed the info on this unit , having an issue and can't get an answer from Bluetti . on pass through charging I am using 800 watts going to an ac unit and have it plugged into a 2000 watt inverter for charging set on silent mode (so should be limited to 800 input ) but it is piling 1400 watts . so the question is does the pass through charging add the two togather so it is pulling 1400 watts even through it should be limited to 800 watts . Keeps popping my breaker .
When charging off AC, it will both charge the battery AND power the loads that are connected into the power station. You'll need to use the smart app to manually adjust the charging amperage to the exact point that it doesn't pop your breaker.
considering I own only 1 thing that runs on 48V and it has a dedicated 12-48V converter I dont have any use for a 48V output. a 12V output is much more useful though as everything in my build is 12V. Bluetti screwed over the people who build with 12V in favor of the 48V options that are becoming more popular. I understand this decision but I disagree with it. Yes, cables are cheaper and smaller but you cant easily source the necessary parts for a repair like I can with my 12V system.
