I've been using Loksound since V3.5, it is not just being able to run very slow, that the prototype can't do easily, it is the smooth acceleration and stopping that makes locos look good in my videos. The fact I can just buy blank decoders and load in the sounds I want when I'm ready to install is another huge plus.
I have always loved programming the sounds in an ESU decoder, especially a V4. I have an RDC which plies it’s trade on my North East shelf layout. At the platform the conductor calls out “All station stops to Boston, All Aboard”, a bit frivolous I know but. The recording is of a friend living in the UK, but originally from New England. His accent survived the trip across the water. I recorded it on a small dictating machine many years ago, just in case. Sadly he passed away two years ago but his voice lives on as the friendly conductor in my RDC.
Man let me tell YOU, the best thing about DCC for me, isn't the lights or sound, it's the stay alive features! I try my best to keep my track and wheels clean, sure we all do! But the moment you run into trouble and your loco starts to stall and splutter it just ruins the experience... Started fitting stay alive caps and now I'd really not be without them. As for more premium decoders, I'd agree with you for the most part, but there are some really nice budget options out there too! Cheers bud 👍👍😁
Yes.I m with you on that one.When I was making my mind up,which way to go,I chose ESU,simply because of their motor control.Like you,I wanted to keep with one brand,so the locos have uniformity.I think,now tho ,Tsunami 2 are up there, pretty close.Cheers Michael
@@boomerdiorama to create own soundssets is the most funny "inn between" thing i tried out... lot of fails but after a while it was okay... far away from perfect but learning is all...
Thanks for showing the the detail of the new LOKSound integrated power pack V5 decoders; I've been waiting for these to come out instead of using the normal Version 5s and having to buy the expensive add on power packs. On another matter, I couldn't help noticing (and I'm not being a rivet counter) but your flat car has what looks to be friction bearing trucks, so if you have a spare set of roller bearing trucks you may want to swap these out. I think only museum type historical railroads are allowed to run friction bearing equipment. Keep up the good work !
Thank You for the update. I too like Loksound but also like TCS as well, I also use a ECOS 50210 DCC SYSTEM and love the visual interface and RailCom. As far as sound goes they are both great, but I do feel the ESU has better motor control. I have not seen the new decoder yet, but will give them a go. Regards Gary
Thanks for sharing. I like TCS as well, except for the two modes you have to switch back and forth (Lighting & Sound) just to turn on ditch lights, etc. Furthermore, you have to install resistors for LED's as well. ESU resistors are built in. Cheers.
Well, the good news is, if you ever get a horn sound file that you like better, you can reprogram the decoder to use it. You're not at a dead-end take-it-or-leave-it situation like with other decoders.
I'm a Soundtraxx user, I'd like to try there decoders but haven't because of the other equipment needed to download the sound files excreta. With their preloaded sounds and being able to manipulate levels on my NCE controller it's just a little more affordable. When added with Tang Band speakers there really a good decoder.
I just bought a couple myself Boomer, and yes I am going to move my fleet to these. I agree the horns could be better. Would really like ESU to lower the resistance on the light outputs to 1k ohms and increase overall base volumes. I can only imagine what you are going to do with all those extra light functions. Great video as always Boomer! Model on my friend!
Thank you for the great review. I have some N scaled DC locomotives that I need to convert to DCC. This will certainly make my decision easier on what decoder I should use. I have never done this before, ought to be interesting. The locomotives are ready to convert.
I agree best decoder on the market, one feature I do miss is independent notching, I have yet figured out there intelligent notching. When your dragging 20 cars I liked that you could notch up to say notch 5 or so and crawl along.
My view is that I appreciate the value of having several different decoders in my several locos, both with and without sound. There are usually a couple of features one brand has that the others do not. Even so, I have 3 brands I like and 1 I have to remind myself why not to ever buy another.
With the tabs never put the wire through the hole and solder its just hard work to change, tin the pads on the board and solder the wire into the puddle much easier to change and repair.
As engaged in DCC for 20 years the real test of a decoder motor control is zero [0] to step one [1] and this is where the Europeans have excelled. The other advantage they have is in their range of motor sounds and this shows. All of them have advantages with Soundtraxx being one of the easiest to use over the ESU but the ESU has the flexibility but that equate to complexity but also an opportunity for those with a programmer and a little imagination. The Next 18 connection for the decoder is ideal for small locomotives and I believe these have a long term future and can be just unclipped from that board and installed in a decoder tester for programming
ESU also has motor control options for coreless motors... I use mostly coreless motors (Maxon) almost exclusively and the ESU LokPilot decoders have become my "go-to" decoders. Phenomenal motor control! Haven't gotten into sound yet, I model HOn2/HOn30 and there's just not a lot of space in some of the locos I build, so I don't put sound in any.
Great decoder review. I have 2 questions. What sort of LED's do you use for your lights and do they need resistors to work with this decoder board?? Thanks
I get my LED's from here: www.motownmodels.com/ You can get them with lens attached as well. I like these ones because they have long and very thin color coded leads on them. Tom's a great guy to deal with as well. If you go with ESU Loksound Decoder it has built in resistors. No need to add them.
The 58921 is a Atlas only board,will the the 58921 board fit a Athearn Genesis MP15?I really wish ESU would compile a list of Atheran locomotives and give it's consumers a diagram of which decoders will fit which Athearn Locomotive..Btw,did type speaker did you go with(brand,type?)
It doesn't matter to me. The board wasn't a perfect drop in anyway. I also build my own speaker enclosure out of .040" plastic. I don't really have any Athearn locomotives. I use Kato drivee Atlas mostly. I used the recommended speaker from ESU # 50321 and usually wire in two in parallel:ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XFF1jwRNU4E.html
I've not bought any, but I'm curious how you feel about spending $120 (US) for this decoder if your loco already has DCC. Is that what you plan to do? Thanks for sharing your passion. I'm always impressed by your content.
What I have seen a couple people do was they had their ESU’s programmed so they had half quill and full quill. It is pretty cool because you are in control of the horn, but it’s still not as natural as the pre-recorded. I don’t know how complicated it is to as I only have seen 2 or 3 people do it.
@@boomerdiorama if you RU-vid ‘ESU Loksound horn quill’, the first result should be by “Moogman1978”. He describes how he did it, and I feel he got a great result. He did it so you could either start half or full horn as well as fade in. I couldn’t find anything on the internet surprisingly.
I would agree. Except their Horns though. The horn "Quill" on the TCS Decoders can't be beat right now. Have you heard them. They sound awesome, especially the Nathan K5's, etc. I had a discussion with someone on this very topic. We both agreed that sound is also greatly affected by the quality of the recording as well. ESU has lot's of options, therefore I just choose the best one and load it up with the programmer. Cheers.
I'll keep the keep alive, and you can have the other bits. After acquiring my SP GS4, sounds have become overrated, esp. when it comes to hearing the motor to make sure it aint gonna die on the railroad. Also how is Prinz Eugen going? I'd love to see an update.
Hi, I am very new whit this and please don't be to harsh with me. Questions that i have with loksound 58921 and I can't find answer anywhere. I am little confused about some wiring on that 58921 board 1. I have one speaker. So, I presuming that one wire from speaker goes to “Loudspeaker1”, and the other goes to??? 2. Front Light. One wire goes to “Front Light” and the other goes to??? 3. Track Left Front. One wire goes to “Track Left” at a front and the other goes to??? Thank's