Man I had 24 hours to change out my garage motor before the closing of my house I just sold. This video is the only reason I got it done in time. Thank you so much for such an awesome detailed step by step. You’re a life saver. Seriously thank you man
I rarely comment or say thank you but I’ve gotta say thank you for the video. So much easier just watching you do it than to decipher the instructions. You made this job easy and smooth. Thanks
Thanks for the video. It took me about 7 hours to remove my unit and install the new one. The only thing that gave me problem was the programing of the new unit. Your video solved that issue. Thanks again.
Great video! Definitely saved me some time and hassle. One note, when I powered up the unit my wall controller was not lit up. Fortunately I noticed it was in the locked position, which turns off the red light. After switching it back to unlocked, it turned red and works perfectly. Glad I saw this before chasing down all the wiring possibilities.
Good video. It's nice to see what I was getting into before I installed it. Only took a couple hours. I replaced a 43 old Stanley opener. So I had to take down the old one first. The Stanley still worked but was getting a little funny by randomly opening the door on it's own. Time for a new one. Got my money's worth out of it. It's funny the technology hasn't change that much.
Thanks for watching! Yeah they are basically the same with some added features nowadays. Definitely not built as sturdy as the older units but way quieter.
Thank you. That paralleling the sensors was a nice little tip. Still barely had enough wire clips. I would add, cover the exposed wires of the floor sensors with some black gaff tape so they don't get all gunked up over time and help slow any corrosion.
@@jaycuster1180 Yeah it's a pain. I took diagonal cutters and cut lengthwise at the end I was going to strip then pulled it apart before stripping. Seemed to work good
Good job. Very helpful. What is far from helpful is the shoddy quality control from Genie. I found a couple of things that were assembled backwards - SLIPSHOD. I expected it to be easy, but these things cost a TON of time to finally figure out that they were put together at the factory the WRONG WAY.
@@theguyofalltrades - The plastic housing that sits in the track and through which the screw rod travels - the one that the metal bracket that holds the track to the motor housing was put in upside down at the factory. I kept wondering why there wasn't a slot that would allow the bracket to seat like it was intended. I finally had to pull it out and turn it upside down and it all worked as it should - GRRR! AND WORSE, the plastic carriage in which the cheap pot metal screw-slider is supposed to be seated - well, I am not even sure how this happened or if it can be fixed, but after getting the motor to spin the screw, it wasn't engaging and moving the carriage. Odd. I went up on the ladder and was moving that plastic carriage around when suddenly something fell and hit the garage floor. It turned out to be that pot metal screw dingy. So there is no way to put it back in there without taking the entire motor and track down and then fiddle fucking with it - that is, if it can even be put back as it appears the plastic clip that holds it in place is either missing or it too hit the floor and went god knows where. I don't even know how this was possible except cheap - cheap - cheap numbskull labor and shoddy QC.
Ive installed many openers. This Genie installed pretty easy and straight forward but I think there was a sensor issue. The transmitter kept blinking 3 times pause and 3 times. I had to contact support 3 times. Their support no nothing about installing and just read possible fixes. They had a care less attitude. All 3 of them. I even held the sensors an inch apart and they wouldnt connect. Wound up sending it back and bought a performax from menards. Wont buy a genie again.
You can just tighten it up to the point where it’s not sagging and you have that measurement I mention from the bottom of the rail then twist the chains into alignment before tightening
Nice job.......no wasted time here except for the ads. I need to shorten my rail and chain due to support beam at 9 ft. Any tips on that? I have a chain link remover to shorten it. I was thinking that I would take whatever length I need off the middle rail, and then shorten the chain to match.
You could definitely use a link remover to shorten chain. The ends are just a master link connected to the threaded bolt portion that goes into the spanner
Thanks for the video. Great job. Just curious why you chose a chain drive over a belt-driven unit? In your opinion are the chain-driven units that much louder than the belt-driven units? Thanks again for the video. I'm replacing two 45-year-old Genie screw-driven units at my mother's house...that still work! It's just time to put these guys to rest. They're getting loud and we're down to one well-used remote. Well done Genie.
Thanks and welcome. I think I chose the chain drive because it will last a bit longer than the belt drive from what I’ve read. These are fairly quiet compared to the original craftsman that came out. I think most of the noise was the motor itself. The only thing I don’t like is the track because it’s in sections that slide together instead of bolting together but other than that it was easy to install and program. They do make a bunch of different versions with some cool features if you’re looking like WiFi and cameras etc…
Awesome and very informative video! Do you know the total length of the assembled unit? I have a crossbeam in my garage that is hindering my ability to put in a new opener. Couple different models that I have tried have been too long.
Great video and i appreciate the added tips. Would have been nice to see a lil more info like how to seperate the wire. In the instructions it looks as if there are two sets of wires. It was confusing bc i didn't see a striped wire. One side has lettering identfying it as type cl 2x....i assume that was the striped wire? Dosent look anything like the pic.
Yeah the writing is the striped wire. Mine had little hashes on it also. To split it I used diagonal cutters or a utility knife then just pulled it apart
The older Stanley’s lol. They seriously don’t build them the same way anymore. They all seem super cheaply built. I think liftmaster may have a better rail setup than genie
Thanks for this video! One question: it seems that I have to hold the button on the wall for the door to shut but if I hit the button for it to come up it works. Any ideas?
Great video! Do you know if I would be able to replace my 1035 power head with the 2035? Just the power head, everything else would stay the same (track, chain, mount, sensors, wiring, etc)
Thanks! I think the only difference might be the track. You would have to look at the top of the power head and see what the track mount looks like. The electrical should be the same though I believe
Nope. Not unless you have the emergency release pulled. There is also a vacation mode where you flip a switch on the main wall button control and it won’t allow the door to open even with a remote
Thanks for the detailed video! Is the rail from the motor to header supposed to be level or is the motor supposed to be lower than the header. I’ve read online some people say yes and some say the motor should be angled lower.
@@theguyofalltrades thanks. The reason I asked was because recently I’ve noticed the rail bends when closing and sometimes It will stop while door is closing and opens again. I’m thinking maybe the rail is too high at header ? I have to help push it down to close it at times. Any ideas what it can be? There’s nothing in the way of the light beam below.
Possibly the power head needs to move forwards a bit or your chain needs to be tightened. The rail sections will grab the black plastic carriage slider if not tight. I would check the chain first. Then maybe loosen the mounts on the power head and try to slide it towards the door direction a little if possible
One other question which is not addressed in the instructions. Lubrication: I would image not too much maybe some synthetic grease on the drive sprocket??? Need advice.
Yeah on these it is because they are multi piece rails. Some other brands use a solid rail which is definitely better or a rail that bolts together in pieces
basically connecting both sensors together and running one wire back to the power head instead of two. Just wire for wire, terminal to terminal from the receiver eye sensor to the emitter eye sensor. I have a youtube short that shows it also
I noticed you did not have to program the wall console. Assuming the wires are correct, does that mean the wall console controller works without programming? My home has 4 different wires and I can't seem to figure out which wires goes into which terminals. There's a striped red and white wire and a striped black and white wire.. any idea?
Wall control does not need to be programmed. So they are in pairs, the striped red and white would most likely be a pair. Best bet is to see which wires are going to the door sensors first if this is an existing installation. Then lookup the model of the opener on google and find the diagram of the terminal layout.
@@theguyofalltrades how do you fix the safety beams if the red (source) is blinking 3 times? the diagram says it could be a source interference, but there's nothing in front or behind or along the line between the red and green sensors.
@@theguyofalltrades unfortunately this video and many others only show explanation on if you have 2 garage doors. We only have 1 and there's interference somewhere and we have no clue where from
8:20 If at that point you open the door, you can get the motor pretty much dead on center. btw: doesn't there suppose to be a cover for the motor's gear. Mine hadn't come with one.
Well, i am now overqualified to figure out wth happened to my garage as i cannot call a technician to fix it because they are gonna charge me for a new garage door or something stupid like that so THANK YOU! 🫶🏾
