The Pet Foods and Treats I Feed My Dogs 

You make an excellent point, Ryan. And I'm sure your pup is doing great on the diet you're feeding her. Cheers!

I had a similar experience with a vet. When I switched to raw I also 'switched' vets 👍

Thanks! Maybe one day I'll make a "day in the life of" video. Cheers!

@@NateSchoemer please! That would be awesome seeing the commands in real life scenarios!

Thank you, Eddie. I really appreciate that! Cheers! :)

My pleasure. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel. I really appreciate it! :)

Thanks, April! Yes, I've worked with countless clients that had similar issues. Once we switched their dogs to a raw diet, they saw almost instant improvements!

Thanks, Christopher! Much appreciated!

Awesome! Thank you, I appreciate that and I'm happy the videos have been so helpful. Cheers! :)

My pleasure. Thanks for the support and for sharing! :)

Not obsessive at all. It sounds like you will have a very well behaved and trained dog who will love you for it. Just make sure to pick a breed that fits your lifestyle, not it's looks.

Thanks, I really appreciate it. I think you're doing it right by studying and planning, so you and your future pup can have the best relationship and experiences possible. Let us all know when you end up getting your pup. :) Cheers!

Hey Roshan, I love hearing success stories. Please join my Facebook group and share the video of your dog in training :) I am so happy to hear you are enjoying the channel. Thank you so much for the support!

Thank you for your comment! I appreciate the valuable information you shared about Dr. Becker's book and your experience with feeding raw. It's great to hear about the benefits you've observed in your dog's health. Your insights are valuable and appreciated!

Thanks, Sari! I appreciate that! :)

Thank you so much. I appreciate the support, and I hope your dogs love the freeze-dried dog food. Also, Pet Fooled is an excellent documentary that I think every dog owner should watch. :)

As always, you're support is much appreciated! Cheers!

Awesome! Sounds like your dog is on a great diet and training schedule. :)

My pleasure. Thanks for watching and supporting as always. Cheers!

Awesome! Thank you!

Thanks for watching and supporting. I'm sure you're doing a great job with your puppy!

My pleasure. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel. I really appreciate it!

Thanks, AK1! I really appreciate that!

Thanks, Betty!

Thanks for sharing, I really appreciate that! :)

Good question. If I'm still on continual reinforcement, then I use a high quality kibble. Once the dog is no longer on continual reinforcement, meaning that we are rewarding every correct behavior, I then switch to feeding the dog raw and using freeze-dried dog food during training. Here's a breakdown from my Virtual Canine Coaching Program: Spacing Out Rewards When training a dog, our aim is to reach a point where we no longer need to reward the dog for every correct behavior. While this process takes time and consistent effort, there is a proven step-by-step approach that can help us achieve this goal. Let's explore each stage of my proven three-stage process and gain an understanding of when to advance to the next one. Stage 1: Introducing a new command In this initial stage, we introduce a new command to our dog. I like to refer to this phase as "questions and answers." Here's how it works: the command itself acts as the question, while the physical cue we use to prompt the desired behavior serves as the answer. For example, let's say we want the dog to "down." We first give the verbal command ("down"), followed by a brief pause of about half a second, and then provide a physical cue, such as a lure. It's crucial to note that the command (question) should always come before the physical cue (answer). If we give them simultaneously (known as "Overshadowing"), the dog won't learn the command effectively. In this stage, we employ a training method that I fondly term "Pay to Play." This is more widely known as continuous reinforcement. This means that every time the dog performs the behavior correctly, we mark and reward them with a treat or toy. We remain in stage one until the dog responds to the verbal command alone, without relying on the physical cue. It's important to remember that each command represents a separate element, so it's possible to be at different stages with different commands simultaneously. For instance, you may be at stage 1 with one command, stage 2 with another, and stage 3 with yet another command. Stage 2: Performing on Verbal Command After your dog starts responding to the verbal command without the need for a physical cue, you have reached stage 2 of the training process. In this stage, the focus is on reducing reliance on physical rewards while still providing feedback. Let's use the "down" command as an example. You give the command, and your dog promptly lies down. At this point, you have three options, depending on whether you are teaching the implied stay or the commanded stay. Option 1 remains the same as in stage 1: you mark the correct behavior and provide a reward. Option 2 involves offering verbal praise as positive reinforcement without a physical reward. For those teaching the implied stay, option 3 is using a release word to indicate that the dog has completed the command and is free to move, but will not receive a physical reward. If you are using the commanded stay, you have the first two options available. During stage 2, it is recommended to continue this training approach for approximately 28 sessions. Although it may seem like a significant number, conducting two sessions per day will only require two weeks to complete. Once you have successfully completed stage 2, you will be ready to progress to the final stage, stage 3. Stage 3: Treat-Free Top Dog (End Goal) Once you have reached stage 3 of the training process, you will introduce a new option to your rewarding process. Similar to stage 2 where you had the choice to mark and reward, provide verbal praise, or (if using implied stay) give the release word when your dog completes a commanded behavior, you can now give a command and say nothing at all when the behavior is completed. Due to the training and conditioning from stages 1 and 2, this transition becomes easier for the dog to understand. However, it's important to note that you still want to continue rewarding randomly. While you can now ask for multiple behaviors without rewarding each completed command, the random rewards play a crucial role in maintaining your dog's motivation to train. Gradually, you can start reducing the use of the first three options and rely more on option 4 (no reward). Remember that random rewards should still be given to keep the motivation high. Consider the analogy of a slot machine: the random rewards keep people coming back for more, and the same principle applies to training your dog. It's essential to find the right balance and gradually fade the reliance on immediate rewards while maintaining the occasional random rewards. If you completely stop rewarding at this stage, you might diminish your dog's motivation to continue training. I hope this helps!

@@NateSchoemer wow, this is super comprehensive feedback! Thank you so much. Can you give me more info on how to enroll in the virtual canine training course and the associated costs involved, please?

Thanks! Yes, raw can be very expensive, but it sounds like you're doing a great job. I do half / half high-quality kibble/raw on occasions as well. It just depends on my budget. Lol!

Thanks, Drake. I really appreciate it. Cheers!

My pleasure and thanks for watching! :)

Thanks for sharing! :)

If you want to learn more about canine nutrition, check out the forever dog. amzn.to/3f1EMC6

I train my dogs with their meals, and I never had any issues. However, I wait to feed them if I exercise them, and I don't provide them food directly before exercise.

@@NateSchoemer thank you!

My pleasure. Yes, I'm also a fan. She's excellent! I spoke with her on the phone once and she's a very nice and personable person. :)

YUMMY COMBS, Dental Treats for Dogs: amzn.to/3qhvSUb Cheers!

Yes. :)

Lol! I'm sure you'll get there!

🤣 my pups have all loved roo poo and horse manure!!! I feel your pain 😆 however, as off putting as it is for us, I've never known a property dog to suffer any adverse effects from embibing in these 'delicacies'. I just make sure my pups are regularly dewormed... and give them an RMB 🍖 if their breath is particularly feculent 💩 and it's herbivore poop so it's really just grass 🙄😉

This is normal and common behavior, and it isn't much you can do besides confidence-building and socializing. For most dogs, this is something they naturally grow out of. Check out these videos. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LSaA1SnZ90Q.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RStYnOzAcQ0.html

I feed dogs raw once I'm no longer using continual reinforcement. If you want to use a higher value reward for training, then I would suggest trying freeze-dried raw. It's better for handling, dogs usually love it, and it's a healthy option. Cheers!

@@NateSchoemer oh ok! I am currently training with his food, he doesnt get anything high value as of now which is why was wondering if i were to go over to freeze dried kibble that would now be his main source of food, but it looks very expensive! Especially to ship to norway

If Stella and Chewy's freeze dried coated kibble is available in Norway, then that could be a good option. That's what I use when I'm still on continual reinforcement. :)

Thanks, I appreciate that. I teach all the commands using positive reinforcement, but I use negative reinforcement and positive punishment for reliability. Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior. If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act. In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear. Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to engage the training-collar to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). If you're using a flat collar and that's not working, then you may need to use a prong collar or remote training collar to stop the behavior. You can learn more about it in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ewq_sw0zMr0.html I hope this helps!

Yes. Check out this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3lBJFcWiAzk.html Jump to 37:08

Thanks, Chris!

He's a fox red British lab from Muddy Paws in Missouri! www.missourimuddypawskennel.com/

My pleasure. Thanks for supporting the channel, I really appreciate it. Cheers!

Awesome! Thanks for sharing, it's much appreciated!

I don't know what you mean by "You don't have to slander anyone" considering no one and no business was slandered in this video. You can see most of the products that I use with my dogs (including treats) here: www.nateschoemer.com/store

@@NateSchoemer thank you. It was the information in the second paragraph that I was seeking. Inbthe video you were giving us the standards. I just want to know which brands meet the standards without having to research it. So thanks again.

@@ivanekovek why you so mad for, if you don’t agree with what he says move on. don’t gotta go on a three comment tirade on this guy for trying his best to educate others based on what he knows. there ain’t no wrong with that

@@ivanekovek this title took over five years to achieve. So keep talking. Also if u read what I wrote you'd see I don't advocate against raw diets. I encourage working with an actual veterinarian nutritionist. But of course you only saw what you wanted in that

Without disrespect or any harm intended, I really can't understand how as nutrition specialist you aren't able to see the benefits of feeding a well designed natural raw diet over kibble, other than having a financial interest to it. Should that be the case, there's really nothing wrong with it, it would be a biased opinion though.

@@ACKB-wz3ru I'm not saying kibble is better.im saying raw is not easy and in my experience most people don't do it right. I've seen 9 month old rotties that looked 4 months for this reason. I know the diets I recommend are complete and balanced

@@ivanekovek no, again if you read, which at this point I question your ability to. I said most people switch from bad quality kibble to raw and see improvement. Those same improvements would also and are seen in switching to a superior kibble diet

Amen

@@ivanekovek because it's a bad thing to listen to someone who is a literal doctor instead someone on RU-vid 🤣

@@ivanekovek I'll give you that there are many vets that regurgitate info. That separates the average ones From the great ones. But if dr Becker really gave a shit about dog health she would share the info not sell it. That's how I know she's full of it. It's a gimmick . And I promise I know what Im Talking about as it's my profession instead of a light hobby in your case

Yes. If you google search, "does feeding a dog a raw diet reduce shedding" you'll see a lot of articles on this subject. I also noticed it personally with all the different dogs I've placed on a raw diet. As for the Ultra sonic tooth care, there was a place in California that I used to take them to for this. It was at blue collar working dog in LA. I recently moved to NC, so I'll have to find a place that offers the same service out here. I hope this helps! Cheers

Raw is the best! :)

Because that would be an overly generalized statement like saying all cars are bad. Some are good some are bad in all areas of life

Yes, I actually avoid any pet food that comes from China. I usually only buy pet food made in the US, Canada, or New Zealand. :)