Beautiful guitar...hate those backwards tuning pegs.Unorthodox hard to tune on the fly...not a fan of the headstock...unbalanced... Jam on. Youll get there...
Thank you. And I get that reversed headstocks aren't for everyone. To me it just feels like an obvious ergonomic choice, not having to play and then twist your arm around to the other side in order to tune. You can just keep your hand and arm in the same position as when playing to tune. But that is, again, personal preference :)
why cut the screws when the bridge clearly needs to be moved? I mean I get it, if it's just a show piece, no real reason to worry about it..but I'm curious. EDIT: Are you in germany? I just noticed the plug is the same type they have here...I'm american, but I live in germany...again, just curious.
It was a desperate attempt to salvage the tiniest bit more length for adjustment😅 it'll get replaced anyway so wasn't fussed. And from Finland actually
Well this beats my build. Solid maple body. Neck and electronics, including pick ups from and old Sears Silvertone.....and I cut the body out in 1994.....and I haven't finished the build yet. I really should make 2024 the year of the '30th Anniversary' build. It has been sprayed but I wasn't happy with a few defects, and I really should just accept the defects for a first build, and put it together....if I can find all the parts! I a finished 'all pine' guitar is better than a woulda coulda shoulda, but didn't maple guitar. - Cheers
I wouldn't say it's better. First builds are what they are, tools of education :) undoubtedly they will have defects and mistakes, but as long as you learn from said mistakes, you will be able to apply what you learned on any build that follows. Guitar building is a learning experience, every time. Even with many builds under my belt, I never stop learning new things. As you said, this year is as good a time as any to finish the guitar as a 30th Anniversary build. And I hope that it will be a spark for you to create more sawdust to outdo what you set out to do in -94. The first build vs. the build you wanted it to be.
Nobody is more vocal about their opinion on what materials guitars should be made of than people who gained their expertise reading the promotional materials of a guitar maker who're telling you why them spending an extra $10 on lumber means the guitar costs $500 more.
I saw the videos of the build, and now this one. I thought of posting a question about the eternal, philosofical, question: Tonewood. Then I saw that the next video comming up is just about that. As a "luthier wanna-be" i very much appreciate all of this. Thnx /Kuno
Glad to hear you've enjoyed the videos. Particularly these two videos are something I wanted to do for a long while. And the tonewood debate I want to delve into with a more scientific approach I have in mind. I just might not have the resources to cover this, but atleast I could "pitch" the idea
As a musical instrument salesman in the past and a technician and luthery related workman.. I'm pretty sure that the relief has more to do with to been hanged on the wall that the wood.. pine it's a pretty good material for guitars It Is well graded.. cured and dried
Actually been on the rack this entire time and put on the wall for the purposes of this video. Butyeah, totally agree with pine being a pretty good wood for guitars.
I have a bit to learn about guitar repair/building. My son's bass guitar was a right handed bass but he's left handed so I made a copy of the body, but in a left handed mirror image. It was a cheap bass but it looked & played great. Then I was given an Ovation Balladeer that had the spruce top destroyed, so I made a carbon fiber top for it. I tried to get the bridge in the same place, but I didn't know about scale length, so I didnt' measure. It plays okay, but it does not play nearly as nice as it did before the spruce top was broken. Nice job on that guitar. I love building things.
Those sound like two very cool projects! Shame about the scale length, would you be able to remove the bridge and put it back into its correct position?
@@IPGuitars Yeah, I can remove it. I glued it to the new top, but it's a glue that will get soft by heating it. When I made the carbon top and glued it to the body, I decided that I wouldn't set the bridge myself, so a friend that worked at a music store that had a lot of experience doing work to guitars said he would do it for me, but he passed away before I got him the guitar. It's possible that I got the scale length correct. I made a template of the broken guitar top that still had the bridge somewhat attacked to it. That template is how I located where to drill the 2 holes for the location pins in the bottom of the bridge. I didn't get something right, but I'm not sure what I got wrong. That guitar played as easily as an electric guitar before the original top was broken. Now it plays like a cheap acoustic.
If you're unsure of the scale length, the easiest way to check is measure from the nut to the 12th fret. Then measure from the 12th fret to the bridge (where the strings make contact). These two measurements should be the same.
Have you checked out the Carmine Street Bowery Pine guitars? Rick Kelly uses +/-200 year-old pine from buildings being demolished or remodeled in Manhattan. Thicker than usual necks (which I like anyway), 1 piece, no trussrod/fingerboard on some of them, and they seem to hold up just fine.
Wow, has it really been that long? You were a baby back when you built this - I remember seeing it back on reddit/luthier and then coming across to YT to check out the build. It seems that the prevailing theory that an all-pine neck would not be stable has been busted. I recall you spent quite a bit of time choosing the pieces for the laminated neck. That paid off handsomely. I've seen maple and mahogany necks move more than that, and a quarter turn on the truss rod fixed it on the pine guitar. Frets are still seated fine (aside from some very normal sprout) - they were glued in? Glad to hear that there is a plan to fix some of the cut-corners and mistakes, but the choices were fine for something we all kind of expected would explode under string tension or become unplayable after a little while.
I know right?! Making this video and referencing old footage was weird, really didn't feel that long ago at first. I've been really surprised at how this hasn't twisted at all in a non-humidity controlled room. Yeah the small sprouting is annoying but has been there since day 1 and they are glued in, so I am debating the refret later when the upgrades come along. And to the last part: I guess the guitar itself proved all of us wrong haha
Vää, ei oo räjähtäny! :D BUt okay, you said elsewhere that pine resonates well. Even this one? Is this, like, Biltema/Clas Ohlson pine or...? On a side note, I'm building a guitar that's birch with a Biltema pine board on as a top.
Even this one. Sounds great, and OP puu (might as well be K-rauta). Awesome! Yeah I made a similar guitar once as well and love using birch in my builds. I'll be interested to see/hear how yours turns out 😁 Hyviä sahanpuruntekohetkiä!
Been trying to get my hands on some rowan for years, but nobody seems to stock it. But have fun with the pine body! Be sure to come back to comment and let me know how it turns out :)
Visste inte att det var Finland, har sett en hel del på Tuben, hur det "skärmas" och jordas, enklast är ju att ta koppartejp runt picuperna, löda och dra ner till pottarna, har bara gjort elbasar för eget bruk, 2016 blev jag klar med en dubbelhalsad 4 + 5 headless, 34" skala, Hipshot tuning och Lundgren pickups, övre "vinge" kan lossas för byte av identitet. Efter den har jag svurit att aldrig mer ge mig in på nått liknande, blir en till sen är det nog.
I think your perception of the string tension being frighteningly heightened may be exacerbated by the saddle heights. I see that you mounted the neck fairly tall, meaning there is a slightly shallower than "normal" neck pocket. I don't think that's a bad thing. In fact, the greater saddle height results in a more acute string angle behind the launch point, which in theory provides more volume, or "strength" of sound iykwim. Each given string gage, tuned to 440, will always produce the same tension load. I really like the body color, and I have to admit it's impressive how well the neck has endured. Is it fairly chunky? And did you know that there was once an abundant species of pine called Southern Yellow that was so hard, that Menenite barn builders' nails would frequently bend, rather than drive? Sadly, that species is exceedingly rare now.
You hit the nail on the head and put it into words much better than I did. I mean, the neck is slightly chunkier than I usually make them, but it isn't reaching baseball bat territory yet. I did know about that species of pine yeah! In a way crazy to think, but then again that's what happens when we start to "breed it out" with faster growth pine.
i watched that video and was inspired to build a pine guitar myself. so it is my third guitar. one guitar one bass and the Pinecaster. all pine. a neck through made from a 4x4 that spent years under pipes on a flatbed trailer behind a semi. then it spent years in my desert property and is as hard as a rock. even though i know it is strong i decided to make it a nylon string with a tune a matic style bridge that has piezos under each saddle. a few details on the headstock and i'll have the tuners in, then i need to get the bridge, tailpiece and electronics and i can't wait to play it.
