@Kaffe Stein I’m Glad I bought GKN oem ones! Thought about local box stores but with all that I read about how garbage they are I went oem.. Thank god for Affirm pay payments and PayPal pay in four!
Aftermarket $70 OEM: $600 Hmm. I figure its worth a gamble.....because most people dont have issues, otherwise these companies would be out of business
A little bit of in and out play on the outer joint of aftermarket axles is totally normal. If you notice, the joint casing is different. Some use oem casing. Some don't. The bearings inside have rounded edges that fit along an oblong groove inside. This won't affect your car at all. If you're getting vibration and wobble from aftermarket axles, the issue is axial play on the inner joint. It should not rotate inside itself at all. All aftermarket axles will have this type of play compared to OEM, unless they use OEM joint casings. It's by design
Steve- you nailed it. Got a cheapo from CARid, absolute junk. I installed it and accelerating from a stop- momentarily feels like I didn't tighten the lug bolts. A wobble / shuddering feeling, especially when accelerating while turning. Also, a very evident steering wheel vibration above 60 MPH. I pulled that piece of junk out of there and installed a reman. Came with the damper and no end play. I installed it and right away- felt the difference. Nice and smooth and rock steady at high speed. CARid is horrible at returns BTW. They are now in an email 'war' with me and they are doing it on purpose hoping I'll get discouraged and won't pursue the return. Anyway- good luck everybody and Steve- thanks for making this vid.
I've never purchased from CARid, but looks like I'm not missing out on anything! Thanks for the comment about your experience with them. Axles are tough. Sometimes that cheap axle is fine, other times it's never going to feel right. I'd personally rather be one and done with an axle, and have it be smooth. Glad it's all sorted!
My OEM axles from Acura and BMW also move in and out just a little, like you shows. I have no vibration. This is absolutely normal. Same opinion and mechanics that I know. No need to mislead people. If you wanted to advertise for Raxles, just say so. By the way, their cv axles are not so cheap. OEM $500, from Raxles $350 (for my Acura). At the same time, they ask you to send them back your OEM axle shafts. Only OEM. Means, you will receive refurbish, not absolutely NEW. If I were someone who is willing to spend $350 on cv axle, I would add some and buy the OEM.
This isn't an advertisement for Raxles, just my experience with cheap aftermarket axles from local parts stores. My Volvo has OEM axles after the aftermarket ones in the video gave me terrible vibrations. I have Raxles on my Jetta and didn't send them my OEM axles, so maybe what they offer for Honda/Acura is different than what they offer for VW.
this is my issue I am facing with the O'rielly axles I got for my v6 charger. they clunk when putting car in gear and front ones clunk all the time. they are terrible. ugh
@@StevesGarage how did you learn how to rebuild them? I need to learn. There are no good options for me other than factory and they are super expensive
@@09fatbobmike I watched a couple different videos on it, and then made a video myself! Axles can be different, so that's the biggest issue with watching videos if it's not exactly the car you're working on. With the right tools, (mainly a hammer and punch) it's not bad. The biggest thing is the mess. CV axle grease just gets everywhere so you definitely need gloves, towels, and brake clean.
I got trakmotive axles last June. Lifetime warranty but on the passenger side I can see the outer joint is cracking. No vibration issues though. If it happens again, I'm just gotta return them and go to a rebuilder that uses OE quality parts
Lifetime warranty is definitely a great thing to have on axles, just have to be able to deal with the downtime. I've heard of cheaper axles using cheaper boots. Given that high quality boots aren't really that expensive it's probably worth swapping them out if the axle feels properly balanced. Good to know your experience!
I have a 2009 Volvo C30. Both inner CV boots failed on my at different times. Instead of replacing the axle, I rebooted both with GKN boots (OEM manufacturer) So far so good. I need to keep an eye on one of the boots as the seal was not 100% air tight. I am not sure if water is getting into it.
Hey man you are definitely right I am having hell with my axles the last one I bought let lasted a little bit less than a year this new one I got started making noises after few days I have definitely got to do something different I don't have time to keep replacing axles nor do I even feel like it thank you for the video
Glad you enjoyed the video! If I were you I'd pick up an OEM axle. I know they're expensive, but it's one and done. I feel you with not having time to keep replacing axles!
Im gonna get a new axle, spray out that blck grease and re-grease it with some Mobil 1. I swear its the shitty grease they are using. Theres nothing else it can be.
In my own 52 years of experience, if you can rebuild either joint end (inner / outer) of the failed axle with an OEM quality part it's best to do that, even if the cost is close to a new full axle of any brand or even say 50% more. I'd rather buy two OEM joints for $150 and reuse the OEM shaft than spent $75 to $100 for a new aftermarket axle unless it has a fantastic warranty, 5 star reviews and is potentially an OEM rebuild itself. And the problem with all reviews is well over half of the "johnny do good" crowd leave a review the day or week after installation, ...not a year later when the actual review should be left. The average 5 star "works great" review is 100% WORTHLESS. Regardless, nothing aftermarket, unless OEM rebuilt, is ever going to fit your vehicle 100% like the original part. I've experienced this countless times with things like water pumps, power steering pumps, etc..which you should 100% get OEM replacements for...ALWAYS. In short, if you can rebuild it yourself for a few hours work and just a little more cost.. do it! As they say,.. you pay for what you get and time is money!
You sound a lot like my father! I don't have anywhere near that many years of experience, but I'll say that I feel like aftermarket parts have gotten worse in recent years. I used to be able to run things like part store pads and rotors, and I've had a set not even last me a year. Even if something does have a good warranty, you have to factor in your time too! For something like axles, it's too much work to be swapping them out every few months if they keep failing. I'd rather be one and done. Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment!
@@StevesGarage I hate to sound racist but at times I 100% feel that the Chinese are intentionally making sub-par parts just to f--ck with everyone else and because they know when it fails, most people are just going to buy the same crap part again. It's a profiteering scam. I've got a friend who is a fantastic mechanic and was buying what were supposed to be OEM remans from China for his Toyota and he kept getting back Chinese axles.. nothing OEM. He had to send back 8 of them before actually getting back a good one. The bad ones fail because they use drastically cheaper materials. So even if tolerances are ok up front, they don't last because the steel joints wear out much faster. This is one part where the warranty is absolutely crucial. But even if it's "lifetime".. that could mean 25,000 miles!
@@oldowl4290 I think it's more about hitting a price point over anything else. There's a drastic price difference between OEM and aftermarket axles. A lot of people have good luck with aftermarkets, but I haven't. I also don't feel like changing them out every time they fail, even if they are lifetime replacement. I'd rather be one and done on a part like axles.
Here is a list of axles below. What do they have in common besides the similarity is ending names? They are all made by a Chinese company called wonhparts!! Import Direct is what O'Reilly Auto Parts sells.. but same soup reheated! Trackmotive NI-8147, SurTrack NI-8147, Import Direct NI-8147, Cardone Select 666 147, Empire - USA Industries 80-4657
I think the big difference in the cheaper and more expensive axles is the QC. It seems like some people get an overseas aftermarket and have zero problems, while others (like myself) get ones that are bad out of the box. The OEM Volvo axles that I ended up ordering are made in France, but I'm guessing the QC is better to put out a higher quality and more consistent part to slap that OEM name on it.
@@StevesGarage Yeah, you would think when quality control issues arise they would have processes in place to make sure certain benchmarks are met but instead they just rebrand the batches that were flagged during the quality control process and send them out to certain retailers at price points and warranty's that entice unaware customers.
They all seemed very similar, but just taking a glance I noticed a discrepency between the overall compressed lengths of each axle with the maximum variation being nearly half an inch. Doesn't sound like much but I don't think calling them the same axles is quite fair. As far as companies owning multiple brands, and even making multiple brands in the same factory, it's just common-place now. For example, Milwaukee and Ryobi power tools are made at the same factory, and owned by the same company. However they rarely share the same motors, The mould plastics are typically different grades and things like wrench anvils are typically even made out of different steels. The same can be said about almost any brand. Snap-on & Mac for example being known for relatively high quality tools - but even they have MANY products that follow the trend. What I'm trying to get at, is that made in china isn't necessarily a direct correlation between part quality - it's just a fact of life now that companies are often owned by a mega-corporation with many subsidiaries and that manufacturing is magnitudes cheaper (Even with quality components) when production lines are amalgamated into one factory.
Got a left Drive Shaft replacement 2 months ago on a 2002 Volvo S80: I bought this aftermarket part from this store. It is hard to find drive shaft for my volvo, because It equipped with the GM 4T65EV transmission. But finally I found on polar parts website. On the left side the transmission oil started to leak.... Maybe old seal... OK Then we replaced the SEAL: I bought VOLVO ORIGINAL seal... After 1 month, It started to leak AGAIN. What can cause it? - Can a seal installed incorrectly? badly? - Can an aftermarket drive shaft misfits and cause transmission oil leaks? I am really tired, spent a lot money on this drive the car back every time to repair center.
Good thought with replacing the seal as a starting point. In my reading about aftermarket axles, I have heard of this happening. Where the shaft size is just slightly different, enough to make it not real and you'll get a slow leak of transmission fluid. Besides going with an OEM axle, or maybe measuring the diameter of the shaft with a pair of calipers, I'm not sure what you can do. Is it possible you got the wrong seal? Maybe you got a seal for a different transmission/axle combination so it's just slightly off and causing a leak? I'm sorry you're going through this, axle problems aren't fun.
@@StevesGarage The seal is 100% correct, we ordered OEM Volvo for this transmission and car type. The drive shaft / axle is the weak point I think. That part cost only USD100 and the original Volvo is USD700. I think the price difference is too big to get good quality.
@@Knobber In my experience, that's the case. Sometimes the Volvo parts website will have sales, keep an eye out for that. I ended up being able to get OEM axles for 30% off. They were the cheapest I had found them so I picked them up. Now I have a spare set so one can be rebuilt if anything happens again.
Junk yard is a great bet for axles! Even if you spend the time to rebuild them you still come out ahead. I have a few junkyard axles on the shelf as spares.
My Audi came with an aftermarket driver axle that was loose, vibrated and clunked. Put 2 different brand new aftermarket axles in, one didn't even make it out of my driveway before the joint let go, second one did maybe 100 miles. Tried to find a used OEM one but no luck so bit the bullet and bought a Raxle. 100% worth the cost even not having a core for the core charge. The passenger side was OEM with a torn boot, put a new boot and fresh grease and at 270k miles it's still tighter than the aftermarket one I took out with probably less than 10k miles
Thanks for commenting! Aftermarket axles seem more miss than hit, and just not worth the frustration. I'm not sure if your Audi has the flange that the axle bolts to as opposed to sliding in the transmission, but that makes swapping them out even more work. Glad you're happy with the Raxles, I actually just had mine warrantied because it started making some noise. You can always pick up an OEM axle and rebuild it yourself so you know you have a clean spare. That's what I've done with both the Volvo and VW.
I went with Cardone rebuilt and they've been okay on my mk4 GTI. I told myself back then if these fail I'll buy Raxles, but it has been three years of pretty spirited driving and no noticeable problem yet. I agree with your view that it isn't worth the trouble to do axle jobs over and over. Also who likes to get stranded? It happens at the worst time, every time. In my opinion with most aftermarket parts it is really a matter of luck. A lot of companies are just buying from various suppliers and putting the parts in their box to sell. For my truck I bought a pair of lower arms from one company, what they sent me were two totally different builds. Same part. Different country of origin and different quality on each.
That's awesome that you've had good luck with the Cardone axles! That is one brand I've read reviews for that aren't all bad. Getting stranded is a huge thing that I didn't mention. Especially with axles, you're calling a tow truck if they have a major failure. You're right about luck and parts suppliers as well. It's a toss up of what you might get, and the quality of the part itself. Even OEM can sometimes be a cheaper supplier years later than what it used to be originally. If the truck you're talking about is the Tundra in your thumbnail, that thing looks fun!
@@hardcore4476 I believe I got them from Rock Auto. If you're in USA they should carry them. If you're in a different country then you'll have to find another source.
I bought cardone for my accord cu2. Vibrations were gone for 2 months. Now i have vibrations again and they clunk on load. Having the same play like in the video. Buying OEMs now..
Most aftermarket new axles are made by wohn in China just a different packaging, like trakmotive, importdirect, Cardone. I used aftermarket on my civic and the boots done last as long as oem
That's a huge problem as well. If you luck out with a good axle and it lasts, the boots never will. I didn't compare boots in this video, but there is a definite difference in quality. The higher end boots are thicker and a much better rubber compared to a thin rubber or brittle plastic.
I gambled twice on my 2018 subaru outback...1st set...left side clunking after installed. Took it back to the reputable garage, installed a new left set. Stating the last sets were defective. Nope. The new left one were slightly better but still the annoying clunking when shifting into gear fwd or reverse. Now both front axles were clunking. Went back and told them i want to replace them with oem. $250 vs $781 per axle. Well, after 2 months of time wasted, no more clunking and drives like brand new. So the moral of the story, just pay the high price for ths oem and save youself the aggravation and time off work...etc. Hard lesson learned but im glad there's no more clunking.
It seems like peoples experience is all over the place, but this how aftermarket axles have always gone for me. Buy once cry once with the OEMs, and then you're done. Or you can just keep swapping aftermarkets wasting your time and or money. Thanks for the comment!
just a fyi if you do a cv axle you might have play in other parts in you suspension so i would rule out aftermarket until you fully rebuild the suspension and then replace the cv axles i get that they are not supposed to have play but you can check that in store
Exactly why I showed the play in the joint off the car rather than on the car. There are a lot of parts that can have play in the front end when worn. Luckily they're pretty easy to verify if you get the car in the air. Rule things out one by one to make and educated decision based on using the parts cannon approach.
I bought a pair of GKN axles for a Porsche 944 and found they were not correctly assembled when I tried to bolt the inner joint to the transaxle output flange. Then when I disassembled the joint to turn the outer cage around so that I could assemble it to the car correctly I discovered the shaft wasn't new as advertised, but 'rebuilt', or should I say cleaned and reassembled...with parts that should have been discarded. The balls and grooves in the cage they ride in were scored and pitted. Fortunately the online vendor I bought them from took them back and gave me a refund, even though I'd taken them apart. I ended up purchasing new joint assemblies and assembling them to my old axles.
@@tempest411 Someone once told me that reman is only as good as whoever does the job. Which is absolutely true in your case. You could buy another set of GKN reman axles and they'd be fine because some other company put them together. You definitely lucked out with the vendor taking them back and giving your a refund! I assume you had some pictures and evidence to back up your claim and get them to refund you. New is certainly the safest option, though never the cheapest.
The clicking is the axle binding up, so you should absolutely care about it. If it's binding it's only a matter of time until it fails. A damaged axle, or a new axle with too much play will cause vibration because it's rotating and transmitting that 'slop' to your steering wheel. Just like how bad steering or suspension components can do the same.
Oh Rock Auto.... I love it and hate it all at the same time. Sometimes you can find some quality items on there for a good price, other times it's just junk. But you can also buy junk from parts stores too. Are your axles ok though? You could have lucked out and ended up with a set that had better QC and actually work.
@Steve's Garage I'm not sure. Something is definitely wrong. At barely speeds turning the wheel right makes an awful noise. I put it on the jack and moved the tire side to side and it's loose. When I move the tire back and forth there's a knocking by or in transmission. Thoughts?
@@jenniferg6818 That could be inner joint making noise if you think it's coming from near the transmission. As far as the noise, I assume it started happening after the axle replacement? How long has it been on?
My son is driving a 2012 Mazda 3 i with the 2.0 engine and auto transmission. I am cross-eyed trying to figure out what to buy for replacing his cv axles. I'll develop a little confidence in one brand, but they have one side but not the other. Then I'll find one but it's for the manual transmission. Then I'll find one that doesn't speficify whether for the auto or manual. The easy choice is the OEM, but darn they are expensive.
If you don't want to go OEM, I'd find the axle with the best warranty and easiest to replace. I would pick the closest parts store, and maybe see if one continuously stocks them. I'm guessing you've checked forum posts to see what others run? I have seen talks online of people having decent luck with Cardone axles, but again, I'm skeptical of anything aftermarket.
Thanks for the video... Just a heads up. You may (or may not) know that some manufacturers (Toyota for instance) sell "OEM" remanufactured axles. They come FROM THE OEM DEALER, in OEM Branded Boxes, and have OEM stickers on the axles with OEM part numbers. They are touted as remanufactured to OEM standards and can be purchased for SIGNIFICANTLY less than new (ALSO can or can not do a core deposit). They only flaw that I can see is that it has the same warranty (not lifetime) as all other OEM parts, which is just 1 year. FYI, if you get an axle installed by the dealer (I have been told by at least 1 dealer) that the OEM reman is their default choice (NOT A BRAND NEW) which is sad because I am willing to bet that they never told the customer about the reman they just put in their cars. My theory is that parts depts. almost go so far as to "keep them a secret" because all parts guys are on commission at dealers and would rather sell a MUCH more expensive new part. I have one parts guy even go silent when I asked specifically if they had remans. I have also had to give the parts counter the part number and only THEN they would confirm that they even had one either due to lask of knowledge or what I mentioned before. Questions... 1) Did you know these existed? 2) Do you think they would be the best bet as compaired to replacement with ANY aftermarkets OR an OEM rebuild with new grease and boots?
My assumption would be that they offer reman axles to meet a price point. A lot of people are going to balk at the price of a brand new OEM axle and might go elsewhere when you can get a part store axle for $100. So if a dealer offers a reman OEM for less than a new OEM they get to keep the job. I don't think it's anything nefarious, I think it's to try and get people to get the work done there instead of somewhere else. Every shop wants to work on your car, dealer or not. But if a dealer is losing work because people can't afford it, they'll figure out a way to compete. And not for nothing, if the customer does leave and install a cheap axle that ends up failing, they could come back to the dealer mad that the axle failed, and mad that they now have to pay the OEM price for a good axle. I would assume that an OEM reman would be better than an aftermarket new or reman, though I don't have the experience to say for sure. I also think a 1 year warranty is pretty solid, because if the axle is junk it will probably fail by then. In my case a bad axle either showed itself right away, or developed in a few thousand miles. Ultimately my choice is new OEM or high quality aftermarket. I don't like doing axles, and the price is worth it for me to do the job once and not have to worry about it for years to come.
@@StevesGarage I got reman OEM axles for my 1990 Camry from the dealer. They’re great so far. New OEM wasn’t an option since they’re discontinued. Aftermarket ones for these cars are junk
@@christopherwaits7852 That's perfect. Anything to keep a car on the road! Are you keeping the others to rebuild? Maybe source some axles from a junkyard that look ok as spares? That's what I did with my Volvo. They're hard to come by and expensive, so I wanted to keep them just in case.
I've used basic cheap aftermarket axles many times and only had issues twice in over 20 years of working on cars. one was with the clip not locking good into the transmission so I had to get an OEM clip. second was transmission seal fitment issues on my 02 6 speed Maxima which is kind of rare. I'm guessing the manufacture of the axle didn't know that 02 and 03 although being a 5th generation (2000-2003) they came with a different manual transmission with different axles. I was able to find propper aftermarket axles though. those were the only issues I have ever had, never had driveability issues either.
That's great! I think it's definitely car dependent. It seems like some cars can run aftermarkets and some can't. Or maybe it's a manufacturing thing with varying quality coming out of the plant. Either way, if aftermarket works, that's excellent!
@@StevesGarage a lot of people on the Maxima forum would track down used cv axles or get their OEM ones rebuilt due to claims of vibration issues on aftermarket ones. I ran Duralast for a few years and returned them for a refund after upgrading to heavier duty 6th gen axles on my 5th gen Maxima. I never had any issues with them just upgraded. I'm running the Trakmotive brand. I wouldn't trust Cardone after a friend of mine had 2 of their power steering racks go bad in less than a week for each one that was installed. I never realized how expensive OEM ccv axles were until my ex felt the need to take her car to the dealer and didn't mention it until she showed up in the loaner. they gave her the cheaper alternative to instal aftermarket ones and the estimate was a bit over $1,200 to instal marked up cv axles that they most likely ordered from Autozone down the street SMH
@@uptownsamcv After using aftermarket axles and OEM I can definitely tell you that OEM axles aren't marked up axles form Autozone. There is a definitely difference in quality. Curious about your friend that had a steering rack go bad because of CV axles? How does an axle cause a rack to go bad?
@@StevesGarage the Lexus dealer offered her aftermarket axles at a marked up price instead of installing OEM ones that were way more expensive. she spent around $1,200 having aftermarket axles installed on an ES350 at a Lexus dealer. I mentioned not going with Cardone brand axles cause I don't trust their products after a friend had issues with 2 power steering racks that failed back to back. they each lasted a week.
I bought an aftermarket for my rx350 from advance auto parts and mine did the same thing yours did. Now I have to go buy another set but OEM this time. Aftermarket is a total waste of money.
Thanks for the comment! I agree, total waste of money and time. Swapping axles on any car isn't the easiest/quickest thing to do. Though I can do it pretty quick on my Volvo since I've done it so many times! Is it possible to return the axles? If you didn't run them long you can probably clean them up and get your money back.
@@StevesGarage I only had them on the vehicle a couple of months but advance auto parts said I could bring them back. I wanted to try the one from Napa which from what I heard the closest to OEM. Would you recommend those ?
@@subsonicninja777 That's good you can bring them back! I don't have experience with Napa axles personally, but my Dad has used them in cars before with better luck than the other part stores. That being said, I'd ask them their return policy before purchasing because I wouldn't want to be stuck with them if they do the same thing.
3 days into my new aftermarket CV shaft and getting a slight clunk when turning side to side I think youve convinced me to rebuild the oem and put it back haha thanks!
Everyone seems to have different experiences, so I love any comments on this video. But I'll say that my experience with aftermarket axles has been terrible. OEM, or rebuilt OEM seems to always be better. I personally hate doing something over and over again. If I can do it right and be done, that's my preference.
too bad you don't comment on what is the best aftermarket CV axle to get for those of us Toyota owners to whom the dealers say that Toyota doesn't have new axles for the older models, nor does Toyota offer remanufactured or rebuilt axles. They actually send us to a local parts store to buy from them for they can't get the parts. Even they are forced to use aftermarket axles for older models... Since we are left alone, it would be nice that guys like you would help us find a reputable brand name we could have hope with.
I'll start off by saying I don't have experience with Toyotas. That being said - I didn't leave a recommendation for a good aftermarket brand because it seems like it's a toss up. One axle from a brand will be fine, the next 10 will be junk. I've heard good things about Cardone HD axles, but have no personal experience with them. If it were me I'd probably find a good OEM donor axle and rebuild it. If you don't want to do that, find the axle with the best warranty that's at a store closest to you.
To each their own. But like you said Lifetime Warranty and saving sometimes 80% from OEM cost is definitely worth it. And sounds like you've had bad luck with aftermarket axles. I've replaced multiple axles from AutoZone (Duraslast Gold) on a lot of the cars I've owned and I've never had to replace them again throughout my ownership. I'd say their lifespan lasts as long as OEM. The ONE thing I would say, is that if you are planning on racing or modding your car for high horse power then definitely do NOT go AutoZone or similar, because they will snap on you. BUT to its defense OEM will also snap on you if you're making high horsepower. So you would need to upgrade to a high-end aftermarket axle.
It definitely seems like the type of car matters when buying aftermarket vs oem axles. From my experience and research, Euro cars really hate anything but OEM or high quality aftermarket. I would absolutely agree that if the axles work fine and they're cheaper - go for it. But for me personally if they don't work, I don't want to waste time swapping axles as they fail. At least not on something that's a daily driver. As you say, something with hihg HP or a track car is a different story entirely.
I just subscribe, I saw this video a little too late I decided to install an aftermarket axles from napa to my son’s civic SI , now we’re experiencing a vibration on acceleration especially at 18 - 22 mph , napa won’t accept returns because I’m not longer have have the original packaging
Thanks for the sub! That's unfortunate you're experiencing the vibration and can't return the axle. You could buy another of the same brand, return the one you have now, and see if a different rebuilt axle is any better. Some people have done that until they get one that doesn't vibrate.
I don't have any personal experience, but I have read good things about Cardone axles, especially the HD versions. Just make sure you buy one with a lifetime warranty and keep your receipt!
Bought a trakmotive front passenger axle for my 12 civic SI and it wobbles from 5-40km/H. Incredibly annoying.. buying an OEM unit and it’s on back order for months 😑
I haven't used TRQ myself, but I think it's another one that could be good or could be bad. Make sure the warranty and return policy is good if you want to try it out.
We've never had luck with aftermarket cv axles. Changing to my 3rd pair within 3 years for an 04 325xi. Oem price are almost $1,000 for the driver side from fcp.
FCP has that sweet lifetime warranty! $1,000 is steep, but if you take into account your time for swapping axles 3 times, you're probably close to buying one. My VW axles are a pain since they bolt to a flange coming out of the transmission. My Volvo on the other hand, I can swap both axles in about an hour.
@@StevesGarage, yes, i love this car a lot, even tho its just a little 325xi work car, so i gave her some love. Just drove 100 miles on the new ones, they feel solid.
Cool to know I have a fan in Brazil! I don't have any experience with GSP axles. I would say try them out if they have a good warranty, but if not go with something that has lifetime replacement. That way you're covered if they fail.
Here is my experience as I put 1 in the passenger side of my Camry. The carrier bearing failed in 4 months. I am going to purchase OEM this weekend. Hope that helps.
Hi, am looking to get a new axle and wondering how the raxles you installed is holding up in 2022. any problems with it? do you think its worth to get the raxles?
I did need to have the driver side warranty repaired over the winter, all I paid was the shipping charge. The reason for the failure was because I'm lowered, so the axle will bind a bit. It wasn't catastrophic or even that bad, just a little click when I would hit a surface change like pulling into my driveway. I still highly suggest these axles as they have been great, and the customer service Marty offers is fantastic.
I bought them 5 years ago, so I honestly don't remember. I know they weren't cheap, but they've lasted on my lowered setup and come with a lifetime warranty.
You ever come across decent options online for the P80s? Also just recently heard the AWD axles are a larger diameter - not sure on the drop-in fitment on FWD models
It seems tough to find P80 axles, at least for my AWD model. I found lots of aftermarket on places like Rock Auto, but after my experience with aftermarket from parts stores I'd be weary. Probably best to go OEM if you can. I know Volvo sometimes has sales on parts, I picked up some stuff over the summer when they had a site wide 15% off.
My 2012 scion xb cv axles come with dampeners.i put an autozone cv axle with no dampener and is now humming at 40 + mph.it did not used to do that with the original.i replaced it because i put new struts and axle nut stripped.
I think a lot of OEM axles have dampeners. I have Raxles on my Jetta that don't have them and I don't get any vibration. I'm not sure why those aftermarket Raxles are ok, but other axles aren't. I think it has more to do with the bearings and cups, but I'm no expert on CV axle assembly.
Correct. Many aftermarket axles don't have the damper, but it's not completely necessary. I've got high quality aftermarket axles on my VW without a damper and they're totally fine.
