Thanks for the video. Worth mentioning is that it's worth to keep the little bottle. It's more eco-friendly and cheaper to buy a large bottle of sealant and use the little one to refill.
That's exactly wot I've done, I bought a big note of stand tire sealant and use the small bottle 2 refill. Only thing I dont get is dont u need 2 spin ur wheel rnd 2 get the sealant 2 go all the way rnd? Like how does it work inside the inner tube?
@@RaikenXion Yes, it's always suggested to spin the wheel and place it sideways (both sides) and spin the wheel in that configuration also, to spread the sealant. Of course, if you're going to be riding very soon it will have the same affect.
Great suggestions below, but missed by all is after removal of the valve core use a hex key that fits down into the valve and clear any old sealant away. I've often had it almost completely plugged and the new sealant wont flow into the tire.
If you're going to clean the sealant just going through the valve core won't do you much good. Unless you break the bead you can only clean a small ammount. If you're going to break the bead anyway why o through the valve core?
My workflow when using the small bottles like that is that I rotate the wheel so the valve core is somewhat upside down. I then press the bottle firmly against the valve stem then rotate the wheel to the bottom so the sealant will now pour into the tire. Once the bottle is empty I will of course reinstall the valve core. When I inflate, I turn the wheel enough so that when I use my floor pump it doesn't splatter the sealant up into the valve core. Not sure if that last part is useful but it seems it prevents the sealant from splashing up onto the core and becoming trapped once I close the presta valve. Of course this only works if you can get the wheel off the ground, or if the bike has been flipped upside down. If the bike is firmly on the floor I would suggest rotating the wheel just a few degrees so the sealant isn't splashing onto the bottom of the now flat tire sitting on the floor.
This was a big help. I’ve been riding my road bike for years, but because of moving to a mountain community, I now have a road bike with tubeless tires. I’m motivated to learn how to care for the bike myself as much as possible. Your video was a big first step for me. Thank you!
Ok. I did my first sealant re-fill on a tubeless tyre today (tyre has a small puncture that wasn't sealing). I'm not the mechanical type. Despite it looking easy in videos I thought I was looking in the face of disaster with seemingly most of the new sealant on the floor and not being able to re-inflate the tyre. The problem, which I discovered after re-inserting the valve-head a number of times, was that little threaded washer at the base of the valve stem. It wasn't tight enough and air was escaping via the base of the valve stem. Just checked the tyre and after a few hours it's holding up so...hopefully the puncture is fixed. I now feel more confident about topping up my bike sealant and am rather proud of myself!
I’ve been using this technique for over 12 years now. I started this technique out of necessity back when I got a flat on a tubular road tire after just one ride. No way was I willing to throw it away and spend another $70 on a replacement. I pulled out the core, added two ounces of sealant, put the core back in, and went for a ride. That lasted the entire life of the tubular. Great tips!
Good tip. If you're trying this for the first time, though, be aware that not all valves have removable cores. The valves that came with my Ultegra wheels were not removable.
Cut the tip of the bottle at an angle and it will fit further down the valve stem and you'll spill less sealant. Great video @Clint Gibbs straight forward! Well done
Thanks for the video. Just thinking for newbies like me, might be a good idea to mention that you probably ought to spin the tire for a while or go for a ride to distribute the sealant
After the Stans Injector Kit blew up all over the place, it was promptly thrown away. (The tube that is inserted into the injector is just pressed fit not threaded. Yikes!) I tried your method. WOW success at last! A simple and effective idea. Thank You
Good info Clint. For sealant bottles w/o the cone end I keep a turkey injector syringe and a short piece of vacuum hose that fits the injector and valve stem.
Sealants such as Stan’s race and Silca warn not to put sealant in the valve as it will clog it. Read the directions on the sealant before using this method. You can also use a small zip tie as a dip stick to check the sealant level. Here in inland Southern California, sealant dries out quickly in the summer as temperatures are frequently over 100 degrees.
I just did that recently! Luckily my Bike came with a valve removal tool. But for the insertion I just got myself a syringe from the pharmacy and combined it with some medical tubing from an old oxygen mask which was just small enough in diameter to fit inside the valve. Cleanest refill imaginable and it also only costs a few cents. You could also get a special syringe from Stans but that'll cost you about 10 bucks and will do basically the same. Maybe worth it if you can't scrounge up the right sized medical tubing - not sure how well the medical syringe would work on its own.
I hope you could also sum it up in the description and provide a link to the Stan valve core remover (maybe as an affiliated link for yourself as well).
I have always used the bottle to add sealant with the exception of when I'm installing a new tire. Some mechanics will claim it's better to use a syringe with a with a thin injection end so to avoid clogging the stem with sealant. I've never had that problem.
That used to be really important back in the day but I found with today’s tubeless ready tires that it’s not as important. If your tire is not holding air it’s definitely a good idea to lay the tire on its side to let the sealant move around the sidewalks. Also good to shake the tire back-and-forth. But again, I haven’t had to do that recently.
Very simple but informative video. I broke the valve stem while putting air, and used this tool to replace the stem core. The mistake I made is, opened the valve before taking the air out, and spraying a lot of sealant outside in the process. The sealant in my tire was put in recently. Do you think I should more sealant because of what I lost, or should there still be enough inside? Thanks!
One tip I have if you use a lezyne mini pump with the flexible adaptor then you need to do the core up very tight or it will be unscrewed when you take the adaptor off. This happened to me and it was a bad time in the woods I can tell you.
Yep, I've seen that many times...spend 5 minutes and valuable calories pumping up a tire, only to have it blast back out. Repeat a few times, then put in a tube...consider golf, then come to your senses.
@@ClintGibbs Happened to me for the first time the other day. I thought I had a valve key in my tubeless repair kit but had left it at home. I took about 4 or 5 attempts and about 15 mins.The tyre had partly come unseated too so I had to pump so fast. I was having a fully bad time.
i have been tubeless for 12 months now. should i be stripping the tire off, washing out the old goo and redo this operation? how to get the old sealant off the bead? i have heard reports reseating a tire with old goo on the bead can be a real pain in the butt.tire are 2.3" MTB tires.
Works great with Stans, but I tried this with some Slime Pro I got for free and the particulate rubber would clog the hole quite a bit, leading me to take off the cap to clear the clog with a used brake cable three or four times before I finished.
@@Velofil if im correct the milkit valve holds pressure without a valve core to ease the filling of sealant with a seal that can be broken with their syringe. So if you want to change out your tire you have to poke something in the valve to release the air?
It's not necessarily that you are new to bike repair, I've been doing it longer than you have existed, just never felt the need to use tyre sealant. Moved to a place where I have to cycle through an area with lots of bars and entertainment in a small area with the corresponding broken glass everywhere all the time. It can't be avoided (rivers/bridges ect) so it's time to adapt.
You don’t need to do that. Tubeless ready tires will hold air without sealant. The sealant is just there to seal any punctures you may get while riding.
How much Stans would you recommend putting in a 20" recumbent trike tire? The tire is 1.5 inches wide. This would be the initial application. Would one 2 ounce bottle suffice for each tire? Your video was very concise and informative. Thanks.
New to tubeless. Very helpful video! First time installing sealant into my brand new bike. The only issue I’m having is that I’m struggling to air up my tires after sealant installation. It seams as though air is struggling to pass through the valve. Is it possible that sealant got on the tip of the valve during installation and is preventing air to pass? Troubleshooting recommendations? Thank you!
Get a valve core remover and take out the valve core. Make sure there's no sealant blocking the valve. In the video below I show how to take out the valve core at 6:30 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hpeGQ9kZMPg.html
I removed my valve core and tried using FlatOut with no success. The bottle has a built in tube dispenser that fits over the valve completely, but the liquid just stops at the valve. Air lock? I tried putting in some air and it was clear, but the sealant just will not flow. Any ideas? TIA
It sounds like the sealant is clumping before you put it in. The only suggestion I can make is shake the bottle real well before you try it and make sure the valve does not have any clumps of sealant in it.
Easy explanation and my LBS gave me the 2oz Giant sealant bottles you used so I think I’m set, but one question - I never sloshed my tires around when I first got the tubeless tires installed to find out what a “full tire” with 2oz of sealant sounds like, so how do I know if I’ve still got 2oz of wet sealant in there or not and, if not, should I add something less than 2oz?
Question - so I had a tire blow on me due to an unknown sharp object. Sealant sprayed all over the place. I used Stan’s dart plugs to plug it up. Sealant finally stopped coming out and the tire appears to be holding pressure quite nicely. Should I add more sealant now? Also - do some portable bike tool kits - the ones you throw in your saddle bag - have a core remover?
Never knew about this with bikes (only with cars) and I've been cycling for 15+ years. Can I ditch my inner tube repair kit and just keep the sealant and a pump? Many thanks
Unless your rims are tubeless ready with the rim strip already installed, you need to get a tubeless rim strip. Stans sells conversion kits with a rubber tubeless rim strip.
Sealants great for running ultra low pressures when you want a supple and compliant ride without the risk of pinch flats. It also creates a tad bit of weight savings ( about 5 oz/140 gms per for a typical gravel tire). However, you really need to carry a tube with you, even if you go tubeless. A plugging kit is also smart (often called bacon strips). The tube comes in handy when you're 20 miles from nowhere and your hole is more like a gash and the sealant is just bubbling up and the plug doesn't hold either. Then its best to put something in between your savior tube and tire...like an energy bar wrapper or a dollar bill until you get back to civilization.
First application into road tyres, not hearing the sealant "slosh" around when I was shaking the tyre (the no-tubes dance), or when spinning the wheels. I used 60mls (equal to 2oz). Should I add a bit more sealant after letting the first lot apply to the inside of the tyre?
Any tips for adding sealant to a nee tubular tyre mounted with a valve extension, sealant doesn't go in, instead it get stuck in-between and starts to get hard quickly, unable to inflate it after squeezing some in.
My question: how do you let the air out of a slimed tire without -gumming up the valve -losing all your sealant? I wonder if doing this will work: -letting wheel sit idle for a while, upright with valve at noon position -release the air pressure just enough to get your tire off The reason I ask is that in the winter I now use studded tires, and for my ebike, I can't just dedicate an extra wheel to being "winter use only"
. Just let the wheel rest with the valve at the 6 o’clock position to drain any sealant out of the valve. Then move it up near the top and let the air out.
Hi Clint ;) Love your vids, I find them informative and note worthy, please, (unless already made), can you show how you go about wrapping the chain stay with shielding as you often do, what if unshielded rear derailleur cable is fitted by default, what do you do? Also, there are many videos about going one or two by drive trains...what if one wishes to go three-by drive train? Can you give some pointers regarding this. Many Thanks and Kind Regards :)
Here’s a video I made about it a few years ago ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A7NuMIzMtX4.html You would not want to wrap any chain stay protector over an in shielded cable. you want to make sure you do the chain stay protector first and then put the do regular cable wire over top if it will fit.
Clint how often do you recommend adding tire sealant I ride the bike about every other week and average humidity here along the Southern California Coast
great vid but my stupid shimano rims came with valve cores that are fixed and not removable. I guess i need to get removable ones if they even make them for this wheel set. thanks
You can, but that will happen when you ride. This video is mainly focused on adding more sealant, which means you've already had sealant in the tire and the tire has already coated. In a new application it doesn't hurt to spend the tire. In the old days when we converted standard tires we would let the tire rest on its side to seal the sidewalls.
Thanks for the video - 0:48 are there other sealant bottles that have this convenient "injector" ? I can't seem to locate Stans' 2oz bottle where I am right now and Amazon has been out for weeks !
I have not done it but if the tubes have a removable valve core than yes you can. The downside is you have to weight of the tube plus the weight of the sealant.
