When doing a new tubeless setup with new tape, I like to install the tire with a tube and inflate to press the tape onto the rim. The 40-50 psi in the tube presses the tape onto the rim much more consistently than you could ever do with your fingers. Also, with new tires, I find that installing the tire with a tube helps to stretch and round out the tire. At a minimum with new tires, I find that it saves a lot of frustration if they are unfolded, rounded out, and allowed to sit for a day or so before trying to mount them.
Use Orange Sealent - it sets like a balloon inside your tyres and later, when you come to remove them, you just peal the sealent away rather than spend ages trying to rub and scrape sealent like Stans or Continental off the insideof your tyres.
I’ve learned from bitter experience that sometimes even using a compressor & high volume of air doesn’t get the blasted tyre to seat, especially when the tyre is brand new. If this happens you can insert a tube, inflate to a good pressure & let it sit for a few hours. Then take out the tube, put in your valve & try seat the tubeless tyre again. Works every time
Another trick that works for me is using a tube before to easily bed the tyre in. Once done, unbed only one side of the tyre and gently remove the tube from the rim making sure the other side of the tyre/rim remains sealed. Then add the sealant and it usually makes that "victorious" pop sound at first try and you are ready to go.
I just did this.... It was infuriating when I realised i put it on backwards when i mounted the wheel.... Had to clean up all the sealant I had just put in. Brutal.
I literally just put a new tyre on the rim, and nearly cried when I had finished and realised I didn't think of aligning the tyre and wheel writing :'( haha
going tubeless is great i wont go back to a tubeed tire.i initaly has issues inflating the tire if you have this problem make shure you try to wrap a string around the tire in the middle of the tred to push it tward the rim to get it to keep air it really helped me keep pressure to inflate the tire
Doddy I love the concern for the environment in each and every video of your's. And they are really informative....guess you must be getting to hear plenty of this... cheers :)
You forgot to warn people. Some sealants I have heard say don't use co2. Cause sealant to chunk up. Other than that. Great informative video. Well done.
The mechanic vids have been really great, well informed and some times you get to think of things you had not been paying attention too. Good work hiring Doddy. 🤙🏼
I never align the logo with the stem ...... I've gotten in the habit of aligning the pressure ratings with the valve stem and it makes it far easier to find the pressure range on the casing. its just a habit now despite the fact that with my current MTB setup, my tires are tubeless and FAR below what the tires are rated for. Road bike seems a bit more applicable but I still do it to all the tires I mount
@@captainLoknar For me, it makes it easier/faster to find the stem when adding air. (I check this before every ride.) FWIW, I wouldn't redo it if I forgot to do this.
I'm definitely trying this on my Coyote Skid Row fat bike, even though I have neither tyres nor rims tubeless ready. The tires are kind of worn, but that's partly why I don't mind trying. Also, I do have an old compressor and eight years experience as a car and commercial tyre fitter. So this will be a fun experiment.
@@orionfpv613 If you ride up and down the local trails walking your bike with a flat tire back to the car is not a problem. If you're riding off road cross country, always carry a repair kit and extra tube. My opinion / advice.
Two things I had to learn the hard way converting to tubeless: 1. Take the time to really slosh the sealant around well. Better your arms fall off from all that tyre shaking than being constantly frustrated by a small leak somewhere at the rim where the sealant usually doesn't get to... 2. Make sure the valve is screwed on TIGHT. Most locking nuts you can only tighten with your fingers, so do it until you can't move that ring any more. No matter how hard you think it's on already, if you're able to screw it in more, air IS escaping there...
Did my tubeless set up with only a cheap floor pump. It popped perfectly in just a few pumps. I have DT swiss M1900 and Maxxis minions. I don't know why people make it sounds so critical to have a fancy pump or an air compressor. Don't be intimidated by it if you only have a floor pump.
Exactly!!! And even easier installation I like to use a few drops of sealant itself to lubricate the bead. You could probably use a silicone spray, but watch your brake rotors.
Instead of spending an additional $10 for the "sealant syringe" I used a $0.99 mustard squeeze bottle and a 10" piece of clear, scrap 1/4" ID tubing that can fit snugly over the valve stem. Place the tubing over the bottle spout and it makes for a nice clean installation of the sealant. I also marked the bottle at 2 oz and 4 oz to make the job even easier. FYI - you may NOT want to use a CO2 tire inflator as the expanding CO2 gas is so cold it can freeze the liquid sealant and make it into a goopy mess.
I've had a few "tubeless ready" tires with porous sidewalls, the Orange Seal does a nice job of sealing them up. If sealant comes all the way through, that's a "hole". I think more important than tubeless ready tires is a tubeless ready rim with a bead shelf. Haven't had a burp yet with proper setup.
+1 pro Point for lining up the tyre graphics with the valve. I always remember to do this AFTER I inflate the tyre, probably the only thing keeping me out of the EWS.
I used a regular bike pump, did no dry run, and just poured the sealant into the tire. Had no issues, and no spills. Good practice for when you're out on the trail with a gash in the sidewall that you may need to patch up.
I went back to good old inner tubes, twice I had tubeless blow off and wouldn't reseat, one led to a ten mile hike a bike over the mountains in the lakes, seen more than enough lads dragging bikes back to carparks with fluid all over the place, puncture kit and one spare tube, sorted
I've only just gone tubeless recently in the last couple of weeks after years of sticking with trusty inner tubes. So far gone really well but my main comment is that with Vittoria mezcal tyres and hope rims I haven't needed a special pump or co2 cartridges and have good seal and it retains air long term. I have done both tyres on my mountain bike this way and front on my gravel bike. I'm sure there are scenarios where you can't get away with it but I wish more people would say it's possible as this was a big barrier for me as those pumps cost a lot and I really didn't want a compressor.
Good vid. Few things to add are: 1.pay attention and install the tyre in the correct direction. 2.If you're using CO2 cartridges, remember that next day you'll have a flat tyre due to CO2 having a higher permeability through rubber than air.
If you have a garden pressure/weed sprayer you can successfully adapt it to dump a load of air into the tyre instantly, it worked for me, plenty of you tube videos on how to do this. If it doesn't work you can just put it back to how it was, it's cost you nothing but time
I found first washing the inside of the tire with soapy water, then wipe with alcohol gets rid of any silicon from the manufacturing process. Helps the sealants stick to tire.
I think a big one nobody talks about is when tubelizing a normal tire (non ust or tubeless ready) up front, It will be squishy or squirmy at the same psi than with tube. Thats because the thin carcass was not designed to be run tubeless. So some weight weenies like me like to use normal tires made tubeless, keep in mind youll have to use 5 psi more than what u used with tubes.
make note that some sealants will react with the thermal changes from a CO2 cartridge use. Many companies don't recommend it as it will reduce the lifespan of the sealant. fine for short term OTR fixes, but probably not best for home use.
I've set the second pair of non-tubeless tire as tubeless just a few days ago. IMO, as long as the dry fit is okay (in this case, I can seat the tires easily with a track pump), it has a fat chance to work as a tubeless tire, all it need is some extra time and sealant to seal the bead and the tire wall. == I DO NOT recommend trying this on road bike, use UST or tubeless ready/easy tires only, so the tire would not pop out under high pressure.
I have Mavic tubeless wheels and in the manual I was advised not to use CO2 when using the sealant. It is highly likely that the sealant won't work, when there is CO2 in the tires. I hope it was worth mentioning. Cheers!
Those Conti's mount superbly, never given me any issues - and that's using a track pump without soapy water. My tip for problematic new tyres... put a tube in first, leave it for 20-30 minutes then do your dryrun tubeless setup. Syringes are great, get one from the pharmacy $5 then go to the hardware and buy some 6mm poly-tube. A kebab skewer makes a good dip-stick down the valve to check sealant levels.
exactly what I was going to write. Same for me, tube to get the tire out of it's folded state and then it seats nicely with a track pump. Conti tires, baron up front and trail king in the rear.
The only time I've ever had a problem fitting a tubeless tyre is when someone else has done the rim tape, every time I've done the rim tape myself it's sealed first time and the sealant lasts for literally years. Never bothered removing the valve core, never used a syringe to inject the sealant, just a track pump and some muscle! My tip is to use some sealant to help the tyre slip on in final fitting, no mess with soapy water and it will help seal the final fit; have soapy water standing by to wipe off any sealant dribbles.
@@Monster-hx8qx As in there's no gap in the seam of the rim. But they still should be taped. Mine started leaking around the spoke nipples after some more aggressive riding. So I taped them. No issues now. 2 year old comment by the way.
And if you ask your local bike shop to set up your new wheel set tubeless.... make sure they actually do what you ask them. My tubeless wheels turned out to have tubes in them.... which was actually a relief when I came to swapping tyres over.
Depends on the sealant. I know Continental sealant says do not use CO2 but Stans says you can use CO2. I'd just double check with the sealant you use as to whether CO2 is OK to use or not.
I sometimes use the c02 just to seat the tire then let it out put the sealant in and inflate again with track pump... once tire gets properly seated using a track pump works fine typically
I'm totally new to tubeless, never used it, however am preparing to. I'd like to know if you always need to use a track pump to reinflate your tubeless tires, or can you use a hand pump for maintenance inflation? For example if I'm on a ride and it goes a bit flat, can I pump it back up with my hand pump, or can I never use a hand pump to reinflate a tubeless? What if I'm on a multi-day tour, do I need to carry a bloody track pump with me?
Mega tip for going tubeless on a tubeless ready bike, pump your tire with a tube and only un bead one side of the tire this Will help a Lot when seating i got it first try twice with a floor pump withour removing the valve core
Make sure directional tires are installed in the correct direction >>> ;-) I also like to spin the wheel and look at the tire bead to make sure I do not see any 'wobbles' indicating an unset bead.
The syringe Doddy is using in the video is called Milkit it's kinda expensive costing around $70 but it's worth it if you like to swap tires a lot or if you have more than one wheel set, like I do. The nice thing about this is you can check to see how the sealant looks after a few weeks to see if you need to replace the sealant. I use this all the time and I love it. Not sure why they didn't give the product name out in the video.
NW Budro yeah I know. I used a gift card last year I got for my birthday to get it. It really does make life so much easier when it comes to adding or removing tire sealant
There's valid discussion around the CO2 issue where its cold temperature can ball up the sealant resulting in premature sealant failure. If using a CO2 cartridge, it's best to fill with the tire valve in the 12 o'clock position (so most of the sealant is at the 6 o'clock position, furthest away) and to let the gas in slowly. Of course, with a new tire this fact is irrelevant since you can use CO2 to mount the tire, prior to injecting sealant.
Inflators are crazy expensive, more than a cheep compressor. There's lots of diy hacks on the Internet using garden sprayers. My inflator is a co2 fire extinguisher and a welding regulator, I service a guys bike at a fire extinguisher company in return for free exchange of partly discharged bottles, you just have to store them upside down because of the inner dip tube.
yep. I couldn't get the tire to bead until I removed the valve core; then I put the valve back in 'started pumping with the floor pump & heard the magic 'pop'
Question for you three lads on Whistler right now: are you all running on tubeless? And aside from the stuff Doddy's been using here, any backups or something?
HI DODDY. I AM A BIG FAN OF YOUR TECH VIDEOS. I RECENTLY CONVERTED MY CUBE STEREO 140 HPC WITH NEWMEN A30 WHEELS TO TUBELESS IN COMBINATION WITH TIRENOODLES AND IT IS WORKING PERFECT. THE ONLY QUESTION THAT IS LEFT IS WHEN OR HOW DO I KNOW I NEED TO TOP UP OR CHANGE THE SEALANT IN THE TIRES?
i would add that CO2 should not be used in combination with sealant. it's fine to seat the tire at first but once you have sealant inside - it's not recommended (all of sealants i've used have that warning on the bottle).
great tips but one that is missing is how to store tubeless tyres with sealant in for long periods of time (e.g., 6 to 12 months). Should we pump air in them every now and then? Should we store them parallel or perpendicular to the floor? Should we turn them around every now and then? Cheers
you can use a coke bottle to inflate the tires. put two valves in the cap, a regular one to pressurize the bottle and manual one (with a tap) for inflating the tire. pressurize the bottle with any pump and then release the pressure into the tire. if you have a big enough container, you can just connect it with a hose to your wheel valve and just jump on it. it should sit the tire on the rim.
great tips, thanks.. just one thing though, the Continental Revo Sealant says to not use CO2 to inflate tyres on the bottle. Not sure if thats because of some chemical reaction or temperature issue. Dare say many have used CO2 and had no probs, just wondering why they put that on the bottle if it's not something to consider. cheers
I made my own inflator with a 2L coca cola bottle covered in gorilla tape and drilled 2 holes in the bottle cap to fit two valves - one of which with a piece of tubing attached. I just clamp the tubing, pump up the bottle to 50psi, and release the clamp. Presto - all done and cost pennies! There's an excellent 'How To' video on BikeRadar's channel on here. Look it up! You can buy the tubing etc on eBay.
The annoying thing with tubeless is when you get a good hole that really the sealant won't plug. The tube patch I tried on the inside of the tire just failed after some weeks. Those plug kits aren't a permanent fix.
I thought co2 degraded the Sealant , also you can get a valve for the Cartridge so there not a one time use. and you an always go up the servo and use their air at high pressure
Don't use co2 in hot areas! C02 condenses faster and has thinner particles, causing it to get through the seal between the tire and the rim. Instead, use oxy2go. It is the same concept, but using oxygen instead of co2
Doddy how much sealant do you put in a 29r as I've had seriously stupid amount of waste trying to put tubeless on . This video has shown me the light thank you cam
Stans recommed 85-115ml of sealant in a 29" wheel. Other sealants are normally round the same about but check with the manufacturer for their guidlines
I am obviously making some massive basic mistake! I follow the steps, but cannot seem to be able to pump air into the wheel whatsoever (dry, no sealant liquid). It all leaks somehow out instantly, without creating any pressure inside the tire. I am using Ritchey tubeless ready rims, and Panaracer tubeless ready tires. Valve is placed the only way it can be placed as it has a circular rubber seal (and it's tightened too to the rim). I appreciate any tips!
Great job, Doddy! Unfortunately for me this video came AFTER I got orange sealant all over our kitchen floor (wife wasn't too thrilled about that!) ....dry run....genius, my boy, genius!! :D LOL Also, no frickin' way on the standard floor pump - gotta go compressor or surge pump.
Doddy - I'm planning go go tubeless on my 2004 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo. Bought this bike used about a year ago and have been riding/working on it since. This is my next upgrade. So, I was at the LBS looking at what options they had for tape, valves, and sealant. During my conversation with the tech he pointed out that the sealant manufacturers state the sealant has a useful life. What he couldn't tell me is do I just sweeten the sealant with another dose or would it be better to remove the tire and wipe down the inside of the tire and rim before recharging. Hope you can provide some good advice. Thanks, Tom
My cube attention has Schrader valves, do I need to get Schrader tubeless set (sure I've seen these), or do I need to get a presta setup (and will this be fine in a slightly larger hole originally designed for schrader)? GMBN, great work as always and fantastic channel. 🚵🚴
No, you cannot use a cut-out valve from a normal inner tube in a tubeless setup. Tubeless valves have firm piece of rubber that tightens down to the inside of the rimbed using a nut on the valve's outside (ravensgully.files.wordpress.com/2015/09/image4.jpg) . This will provide an airtight connection between the valve and the rim. You wont be able to get an airtight connection without heavily modifying a normal valve.
Worth mentioning that setting up your tires tubeless through the valve will help if you travel wit your bike. Just release all the air and keeps the bead in place as well! Top up on the oth side if necessary
