I'm not a plasterer but i am an expert at watching plastering videos because I find the subject fascinating, don't know why, i just do. At a professional level it's a highly skilled craft that can turn an ugly wall into a thing of beauty just like a good tiler. With so many people offering plastering videos on RU-vid you would think it gets kind of repetitive but not with you Mr Smurf, I watch your videos and see information I've never seen before, whether it's on the job giving us the run down of what's in front of you or in front of the white board explaining the science behind certain things you definitely have a talent for teaching if you ever decide to lay down your trowel and you definitely deserve more views but the trouble is plastering is s very competitive subject on RU-vid but i like your format and you are definitely earning your place among the other channels. If i ever do take up plastering for a living i know that just like the Carlsberg ad i would probably be the best plasterer in the world because i would be studying time served professionals like yourself 👍👍👍
Now for my more serious points. Two things. You mentioned about site plasterboard walls and boards not straight. I have to say, when you did that ceiling skylight with water damage the other week, I wasn't over impressed with how those few sheets of plasterboard were lifted off the TP truck. They bent a lot. Ok, all was well for the size you cut them down to and no harm done but I just didn't think it was very good. I was going to mention that on the video but left it. Site boards get bent, wet, stood on, thrown about... you name it. Also, at the end here, you talk about seeing the joints from uneven boards on the ceiling which you point out to your 'mate' but that just reinforces what I keep saying: I always, wall or ceiling, packed out/dubbed out/went over/ pre-plastered/ straightened up (whatever anyone wants to call it) the joints before putting the first coat on. If it was a big ceiling, I'd 'roll' that process as well so the plaster isn't too far gone by the time you get to it. I realise a 20 trowel is big and straight thus getting those 'imperfections' on the first coat (in theory) but, like boring broken record, I still say going over the joints first seems to be too old school now unless it's that other bloke (you know who!) suddenly changing his mind, as i also mentioned on another video!
I’ve bought a 16x5 carbon recently, my 13x5 carbon is razor sharp and lovely to use, but not big enough for big ceilings I find. The 16 inch trowel came with quite a bend in it, looking down it, it looks well broken in or like a permashape, bizarre. When I bought my 13 inch, it was flat as a pancake
@@Plastersmurf74 all my other carbons came dead flat and initially horrendous to use! The one I bought is the MXS165D, so the standard 16 inch carbon. Maybe they now come slightly less flat. Struggle to find carbons in shops, even windlesham dry lining, hence buying them on line
The 16s have very little flop on the blade and arguably quite difficult to use, will cause you to over trowel the wet material because it’s so difficult. I started shae on a 16x5 carbon, but a straight one!
And as for everyone talking about using a 14, 16, 18 or 20 trowel. I can beat you all. I used a 50. Very hard to get one but 50mm was plenty big enough for me as I'm not very big! 🙂🙂
You need a perfectly flat trowel for taping the perma shape trowels are shit for taping because you need to take your edges off then run the trowel over the joint flat perma shape can’t do that
I stay well clear of the perma shape, in Stainless or carbon. I like the least amount bend in my trowel at all. If you’re using a 13 perm then maybe step up to a 14 carbon, go to a shop, look at the trowel, get the straightest one you can. I started my lad on a 16, they are very rigid , the trap you may find changing up to a 16 is you may play with the wet plaster too much and get into trouble messing with the plaster too much. Will take a bit of getting used to but it will defo make you a better plasterer, and faster with good quality flat work. It’s worth the extra effort to get used to carbon. Good luck pal! 👍👍
The flat stainless are fine, but they don’t keep their shape at all. They will warp with constant use, especially the larger ones. The carbon will not warp.
Interesting information about trowels mate I only use 13x5 MT for finish work It’s 12.5 mm to make up for 1/2 inch imperial But your drawing of the the trowel was curved the wrong way to work for filling a joint. Have you spoken about cross troweling yet?
@@GeoffAnderson-l5d yeah, and if the measurement is close to a centimetre unit, I’ll use that, if it’s closer to a full inch unit, I’ll use that. If it’s coming down to 7 eights of an inch to the end of the unit I’ll go into centimetres again. Normally to an accuracy of 5 mill. Maybe 5 mill and then a half of a 5 mill if I want to be pedantic! 2.5 mill accuracy .
@@Plastersmurf74 Now you've hit on what used to drive me round the bend working with my dad!! I'm of the age where I was taught metric and imperial at school but mostly worked in metric. Dad would say (something like) 17 and 5/8ths and I used to say what on earth is that in English?!! It was so much easier (for me) to use the other side of the tape and then I'd say back to him you mean 44cm? He hated that!! However, in 'real life', I too will just use which ever unit is the easiest/nearest to use. At the end of the day, we're plasterers so to the nearest mile will do anyway, especially when measuring up to price a job!!! 🙂🙂😉
