Here’s a helpful hint from somebody who has been playing Gibsons for almost 50 years. When you tune, go below the target pitch and then tune up to pitch. Next, do a whole step bend on each string and tune again. Problem solved.
I had an acoustic and a super strat for 15+ years, both of which had tuning problems off and on. I started restringing my guitars this way about 5 years ago after I bought a new Taylor 214 and subsequently watching a video from the Taylor guitar factory on how to maintain your guitar. The tech recommended this same way. Winds go up, don't over lap, don't wind down. I have not had a problem with guitars going out of tune since I started using this method. Had no idea it was the way I was stringing the guitar. I can't speak for a Les Paul, but this stringing method does work.
I was told that Gibson did change the break angle of the headstock from 17 degrees to 14 degrees years ago, so this may work better on older guitars. Cutting a slight angle in the nut slot where the strings pass through also helped on my SG. Big Bends nut sauce helps as well. I do all three to my SG and it stays in tune very well now.
A very slight widening of the nut slow and a line solves most all of the tuning issues that are due to string hang up. Also, you can get staggered tuners in a 3 x 3 configuration which would serve to give a more consistent string to string break angle.
If you wind one wrap on the bottom and the rest above the G string hole that will lock the string in place, so it won't slip and go out out of tune. It works the same for the rest of the strings only go one wrap above the string and the rest below.
I've found that doing either of the locking moves for all strings, assuming a properly cut and lubed nut, works well for tuning stability for all strings.
I discovered this after buying an old 50s Gibson some years ago. This guitar’s tuner posts are so short that winding up is the only way you can do it. I only realized after a couple weeks or so that the guitar was holding tune really well. So I tried winding up the problem strings on a couple other guitars. It helps!
I wrap 3 or 4 times before putting the string through the hole. Never had a single issue with stability, and my strings almost never break. Like ever. And I have a crazy attack with either hand. Was taught that by my guitar teacher back in 1983. This is also how the directions on the old SIT strings say to string your instrument.
Great tip, Robert. I have put the String Butler on my Les Paul, SG, and 335 and it is AMAZING!! The strings pull through the nut at a perfectly straight angle and rest at a better break-angle at the tuning peg. Great innovation
String butler user here too, on my Hamer Special. This is the one fix that did work after a small list of other failed attempts. Yes, it's a gadget, but it's a non-damaging addition to the guitar. To me, this is the definitive answer to less than ideal 3v3 headstock designs.
@@Les537 Yet it worked for me. There's probably some friction, but it's on a rounded surface and the strings go through the nut in a straight way, which is the far bigger friction point. Hey, string trees also never made a strat difficult to tune...
The issues with tuning stability is often nut wear or nut to post angle tolerances including string gauges not being the best fit in the nut slots/height etc, it's worth spending the time to get it perfect, as long as the tuning keys are also adjusted or made of good materials internally too, it's a fairly easy fix, about 2/3 rotations on the post are better than 4-6 because of the contraction and expansion factor, -this also includes the post no less. Using a wound string to carefully re-cut or clean the nut slot prior to string change helps too, just a few gentle sweeps back and forth cleans the slot and it's gentler than most fret files too, the nut should be top quality, plastic or similar is too prone to wear, use bone wherever possible or a similar top quality nut only properly cut and post angled to suit the string rest angle on the post after the 2-4 winds because that is the truer angle.
I think lubing the nut with big bends or graphite helps a lot too. Sometimes I lock wrap the string as well. Although the biggest aid is making sure the nut slots are cut well with a luthier/tech set up
Well that settles it. If winding the G and B strings upwards is good enough for you, then it's good enough for me. Thank you for this tip, I'm anxious to give it a try and tame that G once and for all. Love your videos, man!
Great tip! I have an Epiphone Les Paul that really is a great guitar but on the string G, it always goes slightly out of tune. I have had several experts look at it from different music stores, and they told me there's nothing wrong with the Bridge, and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the Nut either. I used this tip and restrung my guitar and sure enough the problem at tuning went away! Thank you!
Great tip! I have a new LP standard and it seems like they had a good day in the set-up dept. the nut is cut perfectly. The G string goes a bit flat if the guitar sits for a while. Definitely will try this out.
After looking for my current LP Standard, I've begun to just be able to tell if the nut is cut correctly at a glance. The D and G need to be cut at a slight angle and once you see 100 Gibsons, you see it from 5 feet away. For the G, B, high E stability, because they're not wound, it actually helps to just give them extra slack (and on a Fender with vintage tuners, maybe don't even cut the high E). The unwound strings have less friction and slip easier but it's solved with more windings.
Yeah. I give the high strings an extra couple of winds. Somewhere between 1-2 extra loops.... have no tuning issues with Epiphone and Gibson. My only problem is in winter, the big temperature changes means i need to tune or at least check tuning every time i pick up the guitar.
@@Les537 If you properly stretch the strings when you install them, it really isn't an issue at all. I'm actually flabbergasted at just how many players do not know how to properly stretch strings, or that they even need to be stretched in the first place....then trying to solve tuning problems with locking tuners, etc. Boggles the mind
I saw this in the last video you made about it a year or two ago. Works like a charm!!!! It's amazing how simple and effective this works. Also... saw your video on the Music City Bridge "the savvy." I play left handed and they didn't make them lefty at the time. They said they would make some in lefty! Fast forward to yesterday and I got my bridge for my Junior!!! Now my junior has perfect intonation and better sustain. I just had to say thanks!!!! I would have never known about that bridge if not for your channel!!!!
This is good advice for DIY. As it turns out I'm also revving up to make a video about stringing up guitars, although it will be more geared towards techs. The problem with the Gibson headstock is the unnecessarily severe headstock break angle. Epiphone guitars have a much better headstock break angle. That's just my opinion.
In 60 years of playing I never did it that way, but I am going to try it. I have some other issue with the nut binding on the strings that I also have to deal with.. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks! I'll try this on my dot 335! I put a Les Trem nit, and the G string no likey. I can see how the G string angles bit down and sideways, and that this would reduce the down part.
I would have liked to hear why you think this improves stability. Reducing the string angle has put more load on the tuning peg and reduced the load on the nut. Normally you want it the other way around (at both ends). Doing this maybe has allowed the string to slide more smoothly through the slot, so maybe the string is binding in the slot of the nut. Would be interesting to see a close up of the slots with strings tensioned up. Cutting a bit of relief at the back of the slots can help, the B and G have fair bit of tension and have to bend around a corner to get to the posts.
This technique works great on 3/3, but it also works on an inline 6 headstock. The simple fact is, the straighter you can make your string from the bridge to the tuning peg, the better off it is, the more in tune it will stay, and the longer it will last.
Very interesting. I have a number of LP’s and Gibsons and really don’t have the tuning issue - any more than on any other guitars with 3 and 3 pegs - but I will try this next time I change strings. LOVE the the LOTR melody! Made me smile!!! HUGE LOTR fan here…Happy New Year and have a great day!
Just came across your video. Thanks for this advice, it’s just what I needed. Just checked the G, B and E strings on my Gibson and they are wound on the bottom of the tuning pegs. I’ve had terrible trouble with the B and E strings staying in tune. I’ll try this hack when I change the strings (soon). All the best from the UK.
It is all about how well your nut is cut , I have never had a tuning stability issue with my Gibson's but I have always had to do some final touches on the nuts to get them perfect.
I have an LP Standard made in '21, and they cut the nut so that the slots are not straight, they are angled towards the tuners. There's still factory lacquer on the nut sides so it came that way from Gibson too. I haven't really had any tuning issues. IDK if any other recent guitars have or don't have this feature.
Never thought about it, but this actually makes a lot of sense. i'm going to try it the next time I'm restringing one of my Gibsons. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Tried it today, but can't say it's a success. It makes the string change of the g-string more complicated because of the excess part of the string that has to go under the string, a lot more chance to scratch up the headstock. And i don't feel like the g-string holds tune better, in fact I have the feeling it goes out of tune faster. Maybe it will work for some, but I'm not going to do this again.
Thank you for this valuable tip Robert! I will surely test this on my LP next time I'll be changing strings. Thank you for the bluesy LOTR ending too! I play that theme bluesy too at times. Great melody! 🙂
I had a tuning issue with my les paul until I had the nut properly cut for my string guage ...factories put on lighter strings and if you use a heavier guage...the string will bind at the nut unless it is filed
Just widened the nut slots and lube them I use a the thin fingernail file get some 1000 grit sand paper cut and fold the sandpaper then put the file inside the paper and widened the slots if the slot is to high you can lower them this way to lube them no tuning problems.
Way cool.. okay ,I'll try that. I don't seem to have that issue ,but what a great idea! I got a 82 standard and a Heritage series. Great video thank you
It works as there will be less force on the nut but I do not know. A three over three design demands an nut that is cut to follow the direction of the string but in many cases slots are cut dead straight often unecessary deep and also as tight causing an nipping. I will depending on the nut reshape the slots or as I have dune on my Lp a brass nut made to cure this very problem and it works I would say perfect.
I will try this next time. My Les Paul stays in tune very well. I have one of those clip-on digital tuners; even if the guitar is not plugged in, it reads the strings and notes, and is now a permanent fixture of my Les Paul head. I highly recommend putting one at the end of your guitar.
Never thought of winding the other direction. I’m trying this next string change. That dam G. I never use to think about it much it was the norm. Until I started playing PRS. I don’t know if I just got lucky with the ones I got or if they just stay in tune better. Now I notice my good ole Les Paul needs G tuned about every two songs. Great video Robert thanks for the info. 👍✌️
I always have wound the strings by doing 1 loop under then the rest of loops over the string! Helps keep them in tune better! Especially on cheap guitars!
You know how when you re-string your guitar and during the first tune you stretch, tune, stretch, tune, until the stretch doesn't take it out of tune anymore. When you do that you are set pretty much for the gig? But then of course days later this isn't the case anymore. Constant tuning problems return. Well, everyone I show this to is blown away even if they've played for 40 years. Didn't know. So, if your guitar, after behaving for that first jam or gig, after re-stringing and stretching during tune, it now doesn't, AND IT'S SAT FOR A FEW DAYS, do the stretch again, you'll find it doesn't hold. So quickly stretch, tune, stretch, tune, until it stays again after a stretch. Something about sitting for a few days ...temp changes or something? Not sure but every single person I've ever showed this to 1) didn't realize that happened after siting for a few days and 2) finally solves their tuning issues (baring some other bad tuning machine or tight nut or something).
Man……I tried this on my epiphone es-335 pro….on the g,but and high e…wow. Did this and put graphite /vaseline on the nut. Like a different guitar now. Stays in tune way better and better overall. I was nearly gonna sell it despite it playing great and excellent tone. Thanks for a legit awesome hack!
Another good hack is attaching a string tree. No holes drilling needed. Just take out the truss rod cover screw and put the string tree in there. It keeps the G and D more straight, then you can "wind" the B strings upwards. Great video BTW !!!
I have a 2020 Gibson LP Standard with a factory installed Tusq nut. The slots are angled to match the string angle. I had Gotoh locking tuners added so the string winding isn't really an issue anymore. It has made a world of differ....JUST KIDDING. The POS still goes out of tune every single time!!!
I do have a trick. The g string binding issue I solve by at the last bit of the nut, facing the headstock, I file a slight angle towards the g string tuner. Very slight. All my guitars stay in tune fine but my Les Paul stays in tune better than any of my Fenders. I play for a living.
I do it on all six strings Robert ever since I saw the first show that you did on it that with the top wrap on the tail piece and properly cut nut no tuning issues on any of my Les pauls
I tried this before and still had tuning problems. I decided to try the string butler. At first I thought it was ugly but got very use to it when my guitar stayed in tune. It directs the strings straight over the nut like the direction on a Fender.
As a mechanic and a guitar player I can tell you the best thing is dry graphite lube mixed with a dab of marvel mystery oil applied to the nut grooves with the string lifted up. You will never ever have a tuning issue again on any guitar you own.
I've always tuned my strings on top but all my LP's now have locking tuners i have stretch and bend all day on those and they stay pretty close to perfect in tune. And of course string changes are so quick.
Once the string is through the tuner I put the first wrap above the string then wrap the rest under where it comes through the tuner. This locks the string in position and provides solid tuning. Try it. I do this on all my Gibson Les Pauls.
I've always wondered why Gibson went with such a steep head stock angle. I guess it's the 3x3 tuners that require it. Then there's fenders that don't need a scarf joint but need a string tree. Why couldn't they both have come up with an angle somewhere in the middle and used staggered tuners to compensate any break angle adjustments?
That's an interesting trick. What if your Gibsons had locking tuners. I guess it wouldn't work as well ? Or would you go against convention and wrap the post anyway ?
Man, I don't know... For me, the biggest problem has been the angle in wich the strings leave the nut, hence the G string often is the biggest problem with greatest angle. But with that said I can see why you would do it the way you showed and it actually relieves the angle tension a bit also, even if it's more upwards, it adds up, so it can not hurt to do that also, together with lubing the nut and so on. I'll try it out 🌹❤️
My Les Paul HP wouldn’t hold tune, especially the G string, until I added a touch of gun oil to the nut ( titanium nut). Fixed the problem. I had already changed out the auto tuners to a set of standard tuners.
My les paul studio (1991) has shaller locking tuners. I bought it that way. I haven't made up my mind about them yet. I think I've changed strings three times. I'm gonna start paying more attention
Strangely enough, I personally never had tuning problems on my Gibson Les Pauls... But a few musicians I HAVE worked with seemed to always have them...
That's easy enough! Thanks!! What about Big Bends Nut Sauce...ever try that?? I've had good success with it, so along with this tip, I should be golden.....
The way I restring a guitar makes locking tuners redundant. 1, strings through the hole...2, string goes to the right....3, string goes under the string (going into the hole) and back anti- clockwise....4, tighten tuning peg, trapping string under string.... I do a full turn, and that's it. I never get string slip, and if you break a string, it's easy and quick to change....
I've always wondered why I have never really had the infamous tuning issues with my LPs and its because I have always wound my strings like that. Neat-o!
