The SECRET To Nailing Your Exposure EVERY TIME 

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Only took me 2 months of watching different youtube videos to get someone to explain it to us noobies in idiot terms. Well done fella, what a great jumping off point this is

This advice is spot on. As a wildlife photog, it’s the single most important thing I did that increased my keeper rate. To illustrate, imagine a bird in flight that moves from a dark forest background up into a bright sky. Left to the camera, settings would change. But as long as the light on the bird remains constant, you don’t want your camera settings changed. Full manual mode ensures that and you don’t have to worry about adjusting settings while trying to track the moving subject. Great video, Steve.

Sir, next time, please SHOW how you do everything you are saying WITH the camera. The talking alone didn't help much, we need visual reference.

I can see that this is one way to do it, which works for you. If you want lots of shots with t[exactly the same exposure, then this is a good approach. However, you are still using the camera’s meter, which is what auto mode does. In camera, it is often hard to see whether you have blown particular highlights or crushed the blacks. I use aperture priority mode (Av) almost all the time. I set the minimum shutter speed to prevent blurring and may alter it depending on the type of shooting. I have the histogram turned on in the viewfinder, so I have a clear indication of whether the exposure is drifting too low or high. Of course, the histogram is also useful in manual mode. Also shoot in raw to maximise exposure latitude.

In the 60’ and 70’s, using roll film, if we didn’t want to use a meter, we started from this …. a) same shutter speed as ISO. (100 asa = 1/100th sec) b) Sunny, f16. Bright f8. Cloudy f5.6. Very dingy f4. c) Juggle shutter up or down wherever you want but move the aperture the same number of clicks in the opposite direction. So if it was Sunny. F16 at 1/100th for 100 ISO. However, for shallow depth of field an ND or move the aperture to f1.8 but move the shutter up to a faster speed by the same number of clicks. I was using an old Mamiya C330 at one time and it really worked. Maybe roll film had more latitude but it was a handy little rule for preparing your camera in advance for running and gunning.

When I discovered bracketing, I was amazed at how I was able to get all the best lighting and shadows on everything!! So fun 😃

High ISO actually doesn't cause noise in your image. It just shows the noise that was already there due to a lack of light.

2:30 the exposure indicator is calculated using the same algorithm that auto mode uses. If you want a great balanced photo, use your camera settings to dial in your LCD to match what you are seeing in your actual photo and your histogram. When those three things match you have a solid baseline to begin your corrections. Next, depending on your order of priority, go into the settings and set the ma/min auto settings for ISO, aperture, and shutter speed you are willing to accept for this particular photo shoot. If you do this every time you will get good at it. Now put the camera in full Auto and take a few test shots. Look at what values it is using then put your camera in manual mode and fine tune it to what you want to see. Once you have done this process a few times it will become habit and you will be able to dial in the camera very quickly every time.

You're whole video basically explains why when I was actively shooting, I shoot on Aperture priority mode 90-95% of the time and would change the brightness of the scene using the EV (exposure compensation) feature. Additionally, our cameras back in the day didn't have the dynamic range of today's wonderful tools. Therefore, we were stuck using filters on top of everything to balance the shots (Landscapes)...

Canon FV mode is what I use. When using the EVF (electronic view finder) outdoors the scene will show you what your photo will look like. FV is almost Manual mode but I find it easier to react and make changes in FV mode.

Great video I’m a beginner and I’ve always found it difficult to get the right exposure your explanation has made sense

I wish I saw this video when I was starting out. You did an amazing job explaining and simplifying all of these settings. Great educational video.

Steve, you blend entry-level basic information with really useful advice for someone who knows the basics and wants some guidance/reassurance as to the best approach. Thanks for such a clear explanation. My camera (Fujifilm XT-5) is pretty good at handling the noise problem at high ISO levels, so I leave my ISO on auto a lot of the time; I'm much less happy with the Auto-aperture approach (street photography's a different discussion). For some reason, though, I'd drifted away a bit from using full auto: you've given me the confidence to go back to it. Terrific video - thanks so much!

I've always struggled with getting exposer correct in the camera, (usually fixed in Lightroom) so will definitely try your method next time I'm out.

I’m an old timer, 40 yrs ago everything I owned was manual, including focus, so ever camera no matter how up to date high tech , gets the same treatment, 50/50 with the focus , cheers shane uk 🇬🇧

I want to offer an alternative approach which covers a broader scenario; your solution is great, but presumes the shooters wants a large DOF and/or a static image, eg landscape. This is my approach: based on the session (sports vs static) set shutter speed FIRST (its critical for fast moving images), then aperture (sports for example I want a more shallow DOF), then finally ISO to set exposure. This method now applies to my scenario and yours; I can set SS at 1/250th, aperture to F8 and then dial ISO accordingly. Just another perspective. I enjoyed your explanation. thanks for sharing.

You are essentially advocating using Aperture Priority in Manual Mode where you are adjusting the aperture manually using the meter and screen brightness as a guide. That’ll work for the landscape subject you use but not for sport or wildlife. Screen brightness is not a good guide to exposure - essentially because that’s dependent on how bright you set your screen to. The histogram is a better indicator of the distribution of tones and crucially are the highlights blown out. As you do say if your camera is on Aperture Priority if you don’t like the result you can use the Exposure Compensation dial. In variable light your camera can react faster than you can. As others have pointed out constant exposure can be best when photographing wildlife. For most photographers using one of the semi-auto modes will result in a higher success rate than using manual. There are many professional photographers out there who dismiss the “real photographers only shoot in manual” dogma as a myth.

This seems fine for landscape photography. Where you're pointing in one general direction and using a tripod. It's much trickier in event photography where lighting changes as you change direction from back ligting to front lighting not to mention if you're zooming in and out between shots.

Thank you so much for sharing this tips and ideas for getting good images. It will help me a lot.

I tried your method and it worked perfect. Easily understood and easy for me. Thank you.

Been out today and followed your workflow for manual. Big breakthrough big breakthrough. Thanks

For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.

I just use the histogram.

Great video. Cos I capture lots of fast moving objects, may have issues using very low shutter speed. What's your take on using lens filters to help reduce the light/exposure getting into the camera especially on outdoor shoots?

Thank you for making this video and sharing this knowledge, I’ve been trying to use manual mode when shooting on my camera so these tips are useful, very much appreciated.

Fantastic tips!! Hay Steve, two questions. (1) does your method work best using automatic or manual lenses? (2) would you recommend your formula for shooting video? Thanks for spreading your wealth of knowledge to the masses.

Sorry but I disagree, it all depends on the photo you are taking. Manual mode works superb when things don't change, or does it slowly, if you have to change a photo from a a light surrounding to a dark, the seconds nedded to change the dials, check the eposure meter or better the histogram , the photo opportunity is often gone. Manual is great for "manual shots", if a photo is ok in iso 100 it will also be ok on iso 200- 400- 800. While a photo with shutterspeed 1/100, 1/60/ 1/30 , 1/15 will most likely be not usable. There is no one setting to rule them all.. I would suggest people learn when to use Aperture & shutterspeed priority. Iso is just a volume mode, the other two changes how you photos look and feel. Iso 100... Never use it unless is suppersunny on the beach.

A good old trick as well: shooting manual with auto ISO, but to avoid too high values you can cap it to a certain amount in your camera settings. This allows for more creative control over aperture and shutter speed when needed which are the two settings really affecting your art direction in a photo. Ideally though full manual and a tripod is the way to go 👍

I enjoyed this video. Thank you for taking the time and uploading it.

Hi Steve, thank you for your amazing video. Prior to going on a vacation, I watched a video of a photographer indicating that to assist with exposure, that you should set the ISO to auto. With already using aperture priority and letting the camera set the shutter speed automatically, using your video, I was letting the camera make determinations for 2/3 of the settings. After reviewing my photos once back from the trip, I found the exposures of my photos all over the place. So much contrast in many of the photos, some did have the right exposure, but obviously, not great in terms of percentages for great number of photos. I have a couple questions for you. What exposure point do you recommend? Evaluative, selective point? I had my camera on a central focal point, which likely also didn't help my exposure I assume? In addition, my 24-105 lens died on me near the end of the trip. The plastic baffle that goes back and forth communicates the settings to the camera body generated a communications error. I wonder if this factored into my exposure problems too. Luckily, I had better odds with better photos with a spare wide angle lens I pressed into service for all the photos left to take. Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks for this helpful, informative, and educational video. It is daunting when you see all these buttons and dials on a camera, and as beginners want to learn and start somewhere, and of course get away from the automatic modes, too, so we can create our own work. Much thanks :-)

Thanks, reinforced some existing knowledge. Have you produced a video for sport/rugby photos

Interesting approach. Thank you!

You should do a video on adjustment setting when doing video. Great information for photos, but in videos you cant adjust the Shutter too much as it will blur too much of your background. Great video!!

Sometimes having a dynamic range that is greater than the camera can handle can be an advantage. The fact that in a portrait of Orson Wells in the movie ‘The Third Man’ you can’t see his ears is irrelevant because is is the highlighted eyes and mouth that you what the viewers attention to be drawn to. You learn where you want the perfect exposure to be within the composition.

Could you please explain to me why you said at the beginning that working in M mode with auto ISO + exposure compensation is wrong (from 0:39) and then in 2:10 you do exactly that way? It does not make any sense. Why can't I have auto ISO and then do the exposure compensation?

best video to learn about this stuff so far! thanks man!

Agree to disagree - but only a little bit. I think you can use each kind of automatic as long as you stay Chief in Command. But that means that you have to be familar with all the manual stuff you're talking about. For me it's easy but I took my first steps with the old analog Zeiss Icon from my Dad. No automatic available with "only" a fixed focal length. Gread cam I'm still in love with.

Mr. Arnold should've added that these are great settings for landscape photography but horrible for birds in flight (and birds in general). ISO 100? With today's mirrorless cameras, that's not necessary (but go for it if you're shooting landscapes/still subjects on a tripod). Aperture of F11? If you're right on top of the bird and want to get both head and tail in focus, sure. But at most distances, you want to shoot birds wide-open for that uncluttered bokeh background. And for all but the largest birds, a minimum shutter speed of 1/2000th is essential, taking us back to much higher ISOs than 100 with all except five-figure lenses. Lastly, you don't want to be "test shooting" and fiddling with exposure settings while attempting to track a falcon flying at 70 kph through scenes that bathe it in constantly changing lighting. Set the system to wide-open aperture, shutter with an auto-minimum of 1/2000 and no max limit, and Auto ISO with your chosen min/max...and get the shot.

Exposing to the right also called ETTL nails the exposure every time. It is worth learning.

I APPRECIATE THIS VIDEO! Thanks for taking us back to Exposure basics...thank you!

Great tips, Good advice, but in the end you're left doing what works for you in the moment. In my experience getting "Great shots" in full manual mode takes proficiency and skill, and that just takes time to gain, no problem, just shoot as often as you can where ever and when ever. But I personal know "Pros" also utilize those semiautomatic modes to great benefit as well. Me included, when time and urgency are a factor, like at an event.

Cheers so much, this is easy... Also thank you so much for all your generosity too 😊❤

Thanks. Very informative. I do appreciate that you did not ask to subscribe & like. This is really a very professional way.

Did I miss it? All this talk about "Nailing Your Exposure EVERY TIME", and not a single reference to the camera's histogram?

When you choose exposure compensation you are choosing the exposure live and then you can lock and hold

After I dropped my camera exposure is all over the place even when I have it set at 0. Do you think is the lense or camera that got damaged ?

Great video Steve!

In the Old film days , I used to take a reading off the road , or grass at football matches to get a fairly accurate exposure

Nobody comes home with perfect photos every time

An interesting video. I watch a lot of videos on photography by pros and I've never seen one suggest using manual except in certain circumstances. Usually they they suggest using auto ISO, maybe with a limit. ISO isn't normally used creatively, unless you want noise. Then use shutter or aperture priority depending on what you're shooting. In fast changing lighting I'd guess the camera is better and changing quickly.

•Shoot -1, on Camera meter. •LCD / EVF liveview •Histogram •Take a 'test shot', review it, adjust

Great video where here, both full manual and bracketing are required or strongly advised . But for everyday use, full manual all the time ? I don't know... And nailing exposure ? That's also why AEL (Auto Exposure Lock) exists. That simple. You can't always let the camera average for the scene, or the scene being averaged with what you focus on, when there is too much dynamic range discrepancy in the scene. Usually outdoor you can AEL the sky and lift the shadows in post for the rest. There is no other way when your scene has both bright lit and much darker areas than using AEL to avoid blown highlights, or bracket, or under/over expose manually (but most cameras/DSLRs don't allow it in full manual mode, since you force in everything manually, there cannot be any automatic correction - unless if in auto iso, but yet, often camera don't allow exposure compensation function when in full manual, disregarding). You can also AEL on a midrange between the brightest and darkest area. Here, have to play a bit to get good at guessing where to AEL. Check your histogram on replay to be sure, . Or do exp. bracketing, but it's a little more demanding in post. Again, many cameras don't allow playing with exposure compensation when in full manual mode. Some do, rare, and some will keep the under/over exposure setting set prior when transiting to manual mode, but again many don't. Under or over expose for getting the right exposure works too though, and I also use it, but more as a known setting for some kind of scene (bird in flight against sky, etc), and on most of my camera brands, I like to be at -1/3rd at all times otherwise. For nailing the exposure I often tend to use more the AEL function than constantly playing with changing my manual exposure setting. Both are super useful features though. A note toward the beginners that could make a few mistakes thinking they absolutely need to use the full manual mode all the time. Most of the time, you don't need it. It's good to have for tripod landscapes, milky ways and some other stuff, sure, but having to change the settings all the time for each picture is a pain and in reality, when not on tripod, many photographers in everyday use will tend to use aperture or speed (shutter) priority most of the time according to the scene and its needs, and will even often ease themselves further, using auto Iso along. Also, using these 2 modes will bring you back the benefit of being able to use manual exposure compensation if you don't like using AEL, and don't forget than often neither or nor is needed, for often the camera does a good job with its evaluative metering.. Using AEL in manual mode may sometime result (IE: Sony) in getting a P mode equivalent, where to keep the exposure locked, changing aperture or speed will trigger the automatic change of the other to keep the AEL, or as with Canon, will show 2 cursors on the exposure ruler to show you how far you go from the set AEL when changing aperture/speed. And finally, if you're a beginner just discovering all these manual modes or full manual, still get your favorite scenes in auto mode on the side, at least once per favorite scene, and for two reasons. If you mess up in your first attempts in manual modes, your auto shot may have saved the day, and it will also allow you to see how well the camera works in auto mode with its metering and other stuff like the speed, aperture and Iso it chosen to use compared to what you came with with your purposed manual mode settings...

Does this apply to studio photography also?

When talking about exposure can u take the photo then put the photo into an editing software to adjust the exposure?

M mode with auto ISO is the best for me. I go in an out of rooms that are dark and light, then outside, then back inside and have to act fast. I think my R3 is smart enough to meter for me and I can tweak with EV. Yes, is a controlled environment I still use full M, but that's not the norm fo rme.

Good video, easy to understand !

I am not super advaned, but exposure is my #1 priority when I capture image/video's

Steve, have you tried to develop a similar technique for LRC, since it also has luminosity masking capabilities? Thanks so much for the helpful video.

Thanks. Very helpful

Excellent video. Really useful.

05:25: doesn't bracketing do this automatically for us ?

For noobies its important to understand that the exposure meter is only a guide and is not a solid rule. It is designed for capturing average content scenes, with average lighting so that the mix of all the light collected forms 18% grey. Fine for those average conditions. However, step outside of those averagely lit conditions and that 18% grey calculation will turn your image too bright or too dark.

Good Information....But one thing you didn't mentioned about metering mode...its the main fact that affect exposure...

Nice video... nice edit and explanation

Yes. I've use the same method.

Great tip! That’s exactly my approach

I have a weeding soon, my first weeding for free . With Flash, what should I do

If you’re allowing the exposure comp range to guide you, you might as well be using some auto mode. There’s nothing wrong with this. But, you might as well use Auto ISO. Otherwise, you’re just chimping anyway.

Anyone who can suggest...is it good lens to shoot hiking videos as i have CANON D700.. ....????Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di ii LD Aspherical (IF) Macro- Nikon fit....

Iso dont make a noise ,you can take a picture on highest iso witout noice !

So auto exposure lock should be off ?

A fotometria teoricamente terá que ser feita nas altas luzes, e também depende se estamos em matricial. ponderada, ou pontual

Aperture controls depth of field Shutter speed controls blur ISO controls brightness Simply use as required to get your desired look. p.s. there is no right or wrong exposure it's all artistic choice p.p.s. there are no rules in photography

Can u share settings for gopro 12 ? İ need settings for day and night. Please can u share

I can cheat I have a live Histogram in my viewfinder it helps a lot also live view finder so I can see the exposure before I take the shot, I shoot ap priority most of the time as I know the DOF I want for the photo then keep an eye on the shutter speed if as I hand hold 99% of the time and some macro shots need fast shutter hand held LOL so turn up the iso until Im happy with the speed that will give me the sharp image. eg F16 on a 100mm macro to try and get the complete object in focus ISO 2000 to give a nice shutter speed of 1/500 or more. the F16 is more at risk of effecting the image quality than the ISO with the R5 the AF 100m f2.8 macro isnt that good at f16 the RF100 F2.8 macro is a lot better but the sharpest is F4 - f8 ok at F2.8. I think the only time I've used manual was a moon shot also a tripod the hardest was focus the manual focus didnt like it so had to zoom in and use my eyes LOL 2sec delay on the shutter F22 using a 2x adaptor wasnt he best on the RF100-500 ISO at 100 shutter I think was 1/25. the next time I'll try F16 or I think the lowest was F11 with the 2x. But I will for sure going to do more Manual exp lie you said It gives you full control and a great idea with the Bracketing saves using that and you can have 4 shots and not only 3

It was very informative video Thank you

2:35 I am using a Sony A6400 and I don't see the indicator, is there a way to turn it on or does my camera not have an indicator?

Thank you!

My camera has no light meter in manual mode with non dedicated lenses so I just guess and then adjust as needed

Naw. You’re telling me to worry about 3 settings for every shot. What exposure compensation will get it close enough. The rest can be fixed I post processing.

Just to add a comment from me: If you own an expensive large aperture glass, means f1.4 or f1.8, why you are trying to close it down to f11. Use it wide open as it can or maybe 1 step above. For me ISO is equal to Brightness, not the shutter speed. Shutter speed = brightness can become true for landscape photography on tripod. But not for portraits and moving subjects - for example kids. This video is only valid for landscape photography.

Just bought my first camera, a Canon EOS 2000D Rebel T7 DSLR Camera to get into photography and so far I've only used auto mode because it's so confusing. Most photos I take are indoors with terrible lighting. The only time I get great shots are outside, which is usually not practical. Have watched a lot of videos trying to figure it out and only get more confused. Any suggestions of sites or videos to assist in showing me how to use the different settings is appreciated. Camera bundle also came with 18-55mm Lens as well as Canon EF 85mm F/1.8 USM Lens also comes with the attachable flash.

Isnt F8 and up going to make it too dark? Forcing me to use a shutter 1/60 or slower

flaws.. shooting landscape, is way different than taking a person with landscape or background behind, and not to mention a moving person cause of the skin tone. And another big factor is shooting with or no flash. Noobs, will take if not maybe 2 years to learn manual mode. Camera nowadays are much advance than before, so using some Automatic setting is completely fine. In my case Manual mode is my Shutter Speed, and Aperture, and Auto on ISO, and ETTL on my Flash. Rest is in my head with a basic starting point which I analyze the location lighting condition, so I can determine the SS and Aperture. Then, on some instances, I will apply exposure compensation. Have you seen the latest Phones nowadays, it can take better photos than a beginners and that is in Auto and using a phone.

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2:14 shutter 1s, f16, ISO100. Not changing the aperture and ISO, shouldn't the shutter speed be slower to allow more light in? Am I dumb or do I need to go relearn my basics?? I tested this setting on my camera, the image gets darker when i increase the shutter speed. Am I misunderstanding this video? English is not my first language.

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I use manual with auto ISO, then if i dont like it, with one touch on the wheel i manually adjust the ISO. My prefered way ig

Simple n good..🎉

It's so funny hearing people in photography groups talking about how noone needs to shoot manual and modes is all you ever need. lol

Thanks

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well done

Ok and what about HDR? That is exactly what HDR does. It takes three pictures with different brightness and put them together for better contrast.

Great tip with the Exposure Compensation. But how can you look exactly like Eminem?

i never understand how peple edit fotos that they look so clean i

All of these are VERY BASIC concepts and practices for someone who has REALLY STUDIED PHOTOGRAPHY in schools or good books. Unfortunately, people seem to be too lazy to learn, explore and practice.