FOI; It’s not a Ford invention. My father worked in Volvo, and he was in THE meeting were they came up with this. Full story; for every meeting were they discuss changes, features etc there is a representative from the service division to make sure that whatever they do, the car still have to be acceptably serviceable without too much fuzz. And the problem that they had was that the engine compartment was getting too cramped, yet they needed every mm of space, so they had a long argument with the service rep until one guy simply suggested that they take the headlight out towards the front of the car. That way they can utilise every bit of the engine compartment. Everyone was happy, and then there was fika. True story. Ford just took credit for it, like a lot of things that Volvo made. Another example; Polestar (the original company) had developed a really neat, hot hatch based on the V60 (I think it was), and was ready to be put on sale. But Ford took the whole concept, suspension etc and put it on the Fiesta RS.
Those are the headlight aim adjustment bolts and are a 7-8mm hex socket and are accessed without removing the headlight through 2 holes in the bonnet slam panel over the headlight. This is how the MOT station will set up your beam aim during your MOT.
I have exactly this problem on my new V70, so will try this later, thank you! I had a similar oily mess coming from where the heated crankcase vent meets the intake pipe. Caused a mess all the way down over a period of years. Volvosweden has a video on it, although yours looks to be in a slightly different position.
My method… If you have a manual override for headlight dip on the dash, it needs to be at max height to start. Find a flat area with a wall. Drive the car up to the wall and mark the dip beam line on the wall along with the point the beam starts the up angle to illuminate the curb. Reverse the car back in a straight line and adjust the headlight using the top adjusters so the same point of the the beam hits the mark. If in doubt error under and slightly left. Simples.
Thank you for your informative video's I too have low set, off side light. you have confirmed my thoughts about the adjusters. Can't find the string in mine though, LOL.
Hello and thank you for your useful videos at the first place. I want just share with you my own experience. As you mentioned those leaks that seems to be power steering fluid and egr... I was pretty shure i had them too on my xc70. It turned out to be leaking engine mounts. Do you feel any vibrations in cabin? Then it also might be your case. 😉 Sorry for grammar, P.
I think you can fit a socket to the center of that adjuster If memory serves me well, Maybe a normal small socket or a star socket, Something like a 6 mm or 7 mm, Then draw a small line on the plastic bit you were turning so you can count the turns. I moved to France and took my V70 so first tried to adjust the lights to pass the test, But in the end brought some left hand drive lights, many UK new cars the lights can be adjusted to left hand drive, Sadly as far as I know and found, the Volvo 2007 to 2013 modules ie P3 you can not. 🙂
I've had P3 2011 and 2012 V70s and on both it is possible to adjust RHD lights to LHD by moving a lever within the headlamp assembly. (Don't know how far back they introduced that capability but I seem to recall doing it on older V70s too.) It's in the manual - though the diagram for it is appalling. There's bound to be a video somewhere.
Thanks for the great tip. I have the lift pointing to the left of center. I assume the right adjuster in the video adjusts left right. Just what I needed. Sri.
I see with Vida for the Hid self adjusting headlights you can adjust the level electrically and physically should I adjust electrically or physically first
Encouraging that VIDA says there's a manual adjustment for the HID's. I'd always assumed the beam length adjustment was fully automated on them. I hope they can also be adjusted manually as the O/S beam is very short on my V70.
@@nicholaswatson3896 Well, it is automatic usually. You set a 0 (calibration) in VIDA, then adjust physically on the screws on top while using a light checking tool (not sure on the technical name 😁). After that, it'll adjust automatically when the car load changes (I would've liked if it changed during hills etc, but doesn't seem to).