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The TC is FINALLY back! || 1989 Chrysler TC 16v "Restoration" - Episode 0 

Cool Stuff in Weird Cars
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The TC is BACK!... after a longer hiatus than anticipated. I'm calling this "Episode 0", due to this being more of a start to a series of getting it to run right and be perfectly drivable again! Thanks for watching :D
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9 мар 2019

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Комментарии : 5   
@dmcnamara9859
@dmcnamara9859 5 лет назад
Have you checked your fuel pump pressure at the injector rail? A lean mixture(meaning low pressure and flow) will cause excessive exhaust temps. How are the injectors? What about the fuel pressure regulator? Does it (the regulator) have a vacuum diaphragm and does it hold vacuum? Have you replaced the fuel filter? It could be clogged enough to prevent proper high-volume flow...yet getting just enough gas through to be able to idle and a little above that. Another question, have you checked the Timing Belt/Chain timing,is it on the marks correctly for exact ignition and valve timing? Have you done a valve-leak down test...to make sure your valves and seats are holding back compression gases ok? Does that machine have a old school Air Flow Meter or MAP sensor? Either one, not working correctly will screw-up air/fuel mixture also. Does that engine have a knock sensor? A faulty knock-sensor will cause the engine to go in limp-mode also...hence not enough fuel to the injectors under load....yet still enough with excessive exhaust temps do to a lean-mixture. I would definitely address those wires if they are what you say they are...check the cap/rotor to make sure no wonky arching is going on in there also....which will also throw your ECM into "limp mode".Check the ignition timing to. You should be able to figure out what's going on....if you follow the basics...aka "KISS"...Keep it Simple Silly.....keep the damage to your wallet to a bare minimum by adhereing to KISS.
@CoolStuffInWeirdCars
@CoolStuffInWeirdCars 5 лет назад
I can confirm that fuel pressure is a constant 55-57 at the fuel rail, right where it's supposed to be, and I know the vacuum lines have seen better days, since a few were completely undone by the front of the engine. The car did sit for 20ish years, hence why I want to go through everything fuel/spark/vacuum related, and the timing *looked* good from what I could see, although I'll be making sure it's perfect when I replace the belt. From what I've seen from researching, it's an issue with running way too rich, compared to lean, hence the backfiring I'm getting. Once I get it apart, I'll have a better idea of what I"m looking for.
@dmcnamara9859
@dmcnamara9859 5 лет назад
Cool Stuff in Weird Cars: Turbo Charged engines (then and now) tend to run rich (to keep from burning up pistons);usually when you're only on the throttle.Have you bothered getting your voltmeter on the O2 sensor to make sure it's working correctly? If it's not operating correctly; will/can cause"back and forth" a lean/rich-mixture. Universal old-school O2 sensors (heated or non heated) are pretty cheap at online sources like Rockauto,Amazon,etc. A wonky Air Flow Meter or Map sensor will also throw off air-fuel mixture. What does that thing use for a cold start up? Is it a simple valve that allows extra air in ahead of the throttle opening...once warmed up,it should be closed (no vacuum felt)...corresponding with a low idle. TPS...aka throttle position sensor (located on the throttle-body) can also be tested with a voltometer...TPS also determines air-fuel mixture....and duration of injector spraying fuel quantity in the intake. A wonky cold start valve (many times called a idle speed motor,"idle speed valve,"etc.) will also lead to drive-ability issues....as the engine air-fuel mixture is way out of wack....more so with a Turbo (under boost) throwing air backwards(through the cold start valve/idle speed motor) That's a basic EFI system from the 1980s/early 90s (a simple and set cartograph of how the engine should run ).....so figuring it out is just a matter of tracing this and that.You could also have a coolant temp sensor that is not relaying the correct amount of resistance....which of course set-determines air-fuel mixture...that to can be checked (hot/cold) with a voltmeter.
@eliwagner3190
@eliwagner3190 5 лет назад
If the exhaust turns red while your going down the road and it runs bad in boost that sounds like clogged cats
@CoolStuffInWeirdCars
@CoolStuffInWeirdCars 5 лет назад
The exhaust is cut right before the catalytic converters, hence why it’s so loud in this video. I can confirm it’s not that lol
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