The trucker’s hitch and an easy 3:1 set up 

Thank you for that blessing, brother. Glad this video helped. Thank you for requesting it.

Thanks for the information and a couple other guys commented the same thing. It would help hold the line but it would also reduce the power of the MA system and thereby reduce your tension a little. The added friction would help hold your progress but also hinder you from achieving maximum tautness.

@@blueoakats I don't think it hinders how taut you can get the line. The key is what type of line you're using and how smoothly it turns the loop. Watching First Class Amateur's vid, you can see that he's able to get his rope as taut as a drum and it holds that tautness without the half-hitches to tie it all off. Where it shines is when you need to readjust your grip to haul away a second time. Of course, if your rope won't slide over itself smoothly, as I've found with a lot of the three-ply line I prefer, you're kinda stuck with the old method. 🤣

​@@blueoakatsno, it doesn't prevent you from acheiving max taughtness. It simply make your job easier by auto locking and freeing up your other hand to throw a couple of half hitches to secure your rope. You can still tighten it enough that you can break the rope, if you can apply that much tension.

No problem. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Happy to. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching and commenting

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for the encouragement!

Thanks for watching and commenting. I’m going to do a video on mechanical advantage because it’s a fun topic and I use a lot of MA systems in my line of work. This really is a 3:1 system. Other videos on the trucker’s hitch and diagrams on what a 3:1 is can also confirm this. Please subscribe and hopefully I can have a new video on this topic up soon

Yours is a common first glance misconception about this hauling scenario. This is a theoretical (or ideal) 3:1 mechanical advantage (MA) system. It's functionally equivalent to a "z-drag" haul commonly used by rope rescuers. Its actual MA is more like 1.5:1 once friction is taken into account.

That first knot was the slip figure 8 and I daisy-chained the slack. I’ll do a video on it too later on. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@blueoakats The slipped figure 8 to form a sliding loop - isn't that the same thing as a Siberian Hitch?

If you don't feel like messing with the slip knot, you can just use an alpine butterfly for your loop. Not quite as quick to tie or untie, but a lot more reliable.

@@nigel7719 not sure, can’t say I’ve heard of the siberian hitch. But I did just make a video on the slip figure 8 I tie in this video. Check it out if you like

Actually this is a 3:1. The first strand is still being pulled, then when it goes back through the slip knot, it’s adding a 2:1. This makes it a 3:1. It’s the same concept in rock climbing if you have to make an improvised hoist.

In any arrangement of pulleys, the free end you are hauling on does not count as one of the shortened ropes. 2:1.

@@alexchun1105, it is well known that the information presented in Wikipedia must be taken with a grain of salt. A look at the revisions of that entry reveal a long list of confused evaluations of the purchase afforded. A cursory check of that diagram claims that the two anchor points are being drawn together by differing amounts of force; The lower point bears a load of 2F while the upper bears 3F, rather incongruous. Suppose we redraw that diagram a trifle. Eliminate the short length of line supporting the upper pulley, and move that pulley upwards to the point of connection with the rope. In practice this would be done by tying off the upper line to the top of the pulley, and making fast the lower portion of the line to a becket at the pulley's bottom. Now thread the line through the lower pulley, and then back up through the upper. This gives the same arrangement, resembling a little more a conventional block and tackle, and you can count the number of ropes shortened, which is two, as the free end you haul on is not counted. 2:1 advantage.

@@leehaelters6182 Thank you for your considered reply. I don't have the diligence to understand the description of your model's setup. But I did look up the references for 3:1 in Wikipedia. Here they are, in case anyone here has either of these available, and cares to chime in: Compton, Nic (2013). The Knot Bible. Adlard Coles Nautical. p. 74. ISBN 978-1-4081-5476-2. Tilton, Buck (2019). Outward Bound - Ropes, Knots, and Hitches. Falcon. p. 34. ISBN 978-1-4930-3503-8.

@@leehaelters6182 The difference between the 3F at the top and the 2F at the bottom is not erroneous. Analysing the forces in the vertical plane gives a total of 3F in each direction, as you have to take the 1F into account from the pulling force. For the system to be stable the forces must be in balance , which they are. If you then tie off the pulling rope to the bottom anchor then you will get 3F both ways. They are just taking the temporary case while you are holding the rope.

Thanks for the feedback! You stay safe also

its a 2:1 mechanical advantage and that's physics.

I’m planning on doing a separate video on mechanical advantage systems. Subscribe and I’ll try to get that one up soon!

If it does the job I see no issue. The slip knot is just nice because it comes undone with very little effort.

Yes. That rope is a 1/2”. That piece is a scrap end of rope that I don’t use for climbing. I prefer arbormastor by samson as a 16 strand, or velocity by Samson, a 24 strand. Velocity is easier to splice. And sterling HTP is a really good rope for SRT / SRS because it’s extremely low stretch but you cannot splice it. Selecting a climbing rope depends on the type of climbing you are interested in. I’ll be making videos in the future that teach different climbing systems and give advice for rope/tools to use. Subscribe to my channel if you want to see when they come out.

I will make a separate video for that knot. It’s a great knot to know!

@@blueoakats thank you so much!

That’s the knot I use for the middle loop. Looks nicer and can move in either direction and I agree is easy to get out

Same to you

Here is my video showing that slip fig-8: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3mHbQL8cr1Q.html I’m going to do a video on MA so stay tuned, thanks for watching!

I prefer the inline knot as well - mostly because I inevitably pull the wrong side through my slip knot, damn near every time. 😅 sad, but true.

@@kerrischneider7693lol same

I was looking to see if someone else had pointed that out. The channel "First Class Amateur" taught me.

@@EvilMonkey8366 yup same here

Thanks for the tip

Correct-not a truckers hitch and not 3 to 1. A 2 to1 and actually less due to all the rope friction

@Mark and @herbiesnerd, I am curious what disqualifies it, in your view, to be called a Trucker's Hitch? The noose as a pulley, rather than a Figure Eight or an Alpine Butterfly?

@@Mark-jd1fr, agreed that the purchase is 2:1, as the free end hauled on is not counted as a shortened rope, no?

@@leehaelters6182 I was a firefighter for 31 years. This is how we were taught. They key technique is tossing all the working end rope OVER the taught line. This video shows the first way I learned it which in my opinion was superior than the 2nd way I learned it. Instead of the Bowline at the change of direction, you can also use a very simple sheep shank. The sheep shank only held if the line is kept taught as it would fall apart if allowed to go slack. But, that’s the exact reason it was used, so it would easily come apart when you were finished using it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-t0xy_a2z0Cw.html The loop he tied in this video we are all commenting on, is using a completely separate technique for a middle of the line loop. The truckers does not require you to feed the working end of the rope through the change of direction loop. However, I do use this technique like did but I use a middle of the line Butterfly Loop. All good knots possess 3 qualities: 1) Easy to tie 2) Easy to untie 3) Easy to identify The loop he made will be a bitch to untie. A butterfly loop is like butter to release no matter how tight tension was.

@@herbiesnerd, much appreciated your thoughtful reply, and I am working on absorbing the video you linked to, it is much food for thought, With the sheep shank mid rope "pulley" loop, I appreciate its value in unlashing and coiling up a long series of hitches, but I have never used it myself. I most always have relied on the Alpine Butterfly, as I have come to know it, for the same reason you mention. First person to teach me this version was my employer in the mid 1970's. He had learned it from some European co-worker, who called it a "Dutchman". I have not heard that term since. I will share my thoughts after studying the techniques you showed.

Most Americans don't have any idea they're doing it oddly inefficiently. 👍😎✊ and you're 100% correct :-)

Because the "slip knot" is not the knot to use

Yes, you can. The more you add, the more advantage you get.

I posted this on another 2:1 thread. I'll repost here. Wikipedia says 3:1. FWIW. commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Truckers_hitch_pulley_model.png

If you don't think it's 3:1, you can test it. Set this up between a chair leg and something that doesn't move. Pull the loose end 3 feet and the chair will move 1 foot. It's 3:1.

No actually this really is a 3:1. I’ll do another video explaining how later on. Thanks for watching!

So how do you make it auto-locking?

Well, you do not have the end available in every case. Sometimes several lashings are made in continuous fashion, using a much longer length of line. Far too tedious to thread an end through, much less twice for each hitch. Not to mention unlashing and coiling up at the unload.

@@JDeWittDIY, it can be done by threading the free end through the ''pulley'' loop once more, but crossing it over itself. See the videos of First Class Amateur.

@@leehaelters6182 Thank you, I will look up those videos.

Silly American's!