The TRUTH About Using ALGAECIDE In Your POOL | Swim University 

As long as your pump housing isn't full of water, it won't be harmed by leaving it outside. Not a bad idea to take your filter inside to prevent the freezing/thawing/freezing from making the filter fabric brittle, though.

Almost everyone on this earth has lost COMMON SENSE

I put algae and water turn yellow 😰 don’t know what to do 🤯

This comment deserves so much praise. It's literally the first thing I tell people, and I always receive a look of despair. Yes! YOU HAVE TO BRUSH!. It should be brushed anyways at least once a week, whether it looks ok or not.

@@acatnamedstumpy1918 yeah I just learned that from another of this guy's videos He goes over a lot of stuff on different videos, but with there being so many things to it, it's very helpful for others to remind us noobs 👍

I keep bruising and adding shock and can't get rid of it.

Bless your heart!! You’re a good friend!!! I had to be gone a while and actually made my good friend a video with all the steps of what I do. She said it worked great to have that.

Ever check phosphate levels? phosphates are basically algae food and if you have high levels than algae will keep coming back

@@kingisaac1017 this year has been perfect! IDK what on earth happened last year, but will keep phosphate in mind.

I saw one article that said you could use algaecide to kill springtails and prevent further springtails, any thoughts or recommendations on this?

No just got the water delivery today

Only use calcium hypochlorite

It has metals in it. The less metals in your pool the better

Hope you got your answer before now. But if not, I was having the same issue and so I watched 1 million videos and read 1 million opinions. Someone told me to go slow like us now so that’s what I started doing and S stop saying the energy being pushed up into the water when I was vacuuming. Some people say the water hose is a better way to do it, but no matter what way you have to go like a snail.

I can certainly do that! I'll add it to the list.

I can help answer your question in the meantime. I’m sure Swim University will create a amazing video in much more detail than me - but I hope I can help some... Calcium build up is usually removed via using a ‘Pumice Stone”. You can find pumice stone’s in most pool stores or online. They are pretty inexpensive. Going about it with chemicals is not really recommended as a ‘first try’ as not only will using chemicals like you described throw off your whole chemical balance of your pool but it can be very dangerous if you’re not careful. An example is lowering your pH, basically means increasing the ‘acidity’ of the water. If you have a pool heater - it is possible to damage the heat exchanger by running acidic water thru it; as well as possibly damage other key pool equipment. If you do lower the pH below 7.2 and you have a heater; just ensure it has a ‘bypass’ mode and ensure you bypass it first. I wouldn’t recommend acid to fix a calcium build up issue, even though acid *will* work - that does not mean its a good idea. The only way our company would use acid for any pool clean-ups would typically be something like an ‘acid wash’ its called. That process requires for you to pretty much drain the pool (I’m pretty sure Swim University has a video or post on his website about that, but I may be wrong). By draining the pool when using acid; there is no way that acidic water is ran through the equipment; yet you can benefit from the power of acid and honestly it makes most pools look new (even though I don’t recommend it as a DIY project. I recommend if you choose this option to contact a local pool professional to do the job as acid is very powerful and can eat a hole right through the bottom of your pool by itself.) Sorry for the long response. The long-term solution for Calcium build-up is to lower the calcium level of your pool. As far as I’m aware, the only way to do this is to drain out some pool water and replace it with new water (ensure you take a water sample of your hose water to a local pool store or use a test kit to ensure your hose water has a low calcium level first. I’ve seen quite a few cases where the calcium of hose water was HIGH and therefore made the issue worse.). Remember calcium is like salt - it does not leave your pool via evaporation or anything other than draining the water and replacing the water with water with less calcium. Someone correct me if I’m wrong; from my knowledge, there is no chemical to lower your calcium level. I’m pretty sure one company came out with a product a few years back; but it didn’t work for me and they are no longer around. So your best bet is what I originally said; a pumice stone. Again, sorry for the long response - I love to help fellow homeowners and share knowledge. Good luck! And I agree that purchasing Swim University tutorials and information is never a waste. Google, Reddit, RU-vid, etc. has all the information in the World; but the ‘Pool Industry’ is a small industry and I see SO MUCH bad advice on a daily basis. I’ve said this before many times; Swim University is one of the few who talks about what they know and its accurate. Pool mistakes get EXPENSIVE so spending a little money for some amazing *accurate* advice is priceless in my opinion. +Swim University: I’ll contact you via DM or FB as I’d love to offer some of your tutorials/handbooks for sale on our website. I’ve never done that in the past as I’ve never agreed with all the advice from others. 60% of our sales are repeat purchases; so my priority is the customer and the long term relationship with our customers. We refuse to sell ‘generic’ products which are cheaply made even though we can make a extra $100K/yr. You have a very strong brand which customers trust and I hope you know us well enough to know we are the same way. The customer is always #1 to us. Thanks!

Yes, if it's an organic stain.

@@SwimUniversity Isn't Yellow Algae chlorine resistant ?

CYA (Aka stabilizer) adds a lot of complexity to the problem. But I must say what you write here matches 100% with my experience. My CYA was off the charts. Had to take out about 1.5 feet of water and replace it to lower CYA (still high around 100). Then I saw results with being able to kill green algae. Following your formula, my FC should be 7.5 to 11.5. Seems very high but its at 10 right now and the water seems fine.

@@JoseRojasAbring that cya down another another 50 parts atleast 😂. it will save you alot of money in chlorine because it will require less. i do this professionally and can assure you that 30-50 ppm is far more ideal that 100.

You need test strips

You don’t understand because you need to watch his videos on balancing all levels. Testing the water gives you numbers and based on those numbers you will know if you are putting all the chemicals in the pool at the correct level, when levels are off that’s when people have pool problems that’s why it’s so important to stay on top of all of your pool levels so definitely check out that video of his, he will tell you EXACTLY what to do and what to use.

You need to shock the pool (I recommend using pool shock to increase chlorine above 16 ppm), then use a product called flocculant (or pool floc) so it binds all those small particles and precipates them into the bottom. After adding the pool floc, run the pool in recirculation (NOT FILTER) for about 8 hours and let it rest for another 8 hours. After that, vacuum to WASTE.

for this you need to fill the pool to have more water because it will be gone cuz vacuum to waste

DOUBLE or TRIPLE the shock amount every night until you see the water cleared up. Watch his other algae videos too

use test strips to measure your chlorine level. the Strip will let you know about how much ppm you have in the pool

I have a pool and my phosphates are at 312 ppm. Please tell me how you keep your phosphates so low and maintain low phosphate numbers!!! Thanks in advance.

@@DFWJon for my pool, 2 caps of NoPhos from Leslies every 10 days does the trick.

Running the vacuum more really cleared them out of ours

Get your CYA up to about 50ppm. Then double your current clorine level. Be sure your alkalinity level is below 150ppm, preferably 120-125ppm, lastly brush your pool.

Phosphate remover first. Then algecide. You gotta cut off its food supply first. Then kill it.

too little shock. 1st shock needs about 3x the amount needed. For instance, my pool needed 3 lbs of shock. I had to use 9 lbs of it on first shock, then 6lbs on second shock and 3rd shock, 4th shock at 3 lbs. and all seems normal now. Make sure pump is running to circulate water.

Pink algae… Sounds like a baquisil pool. No?

Its normal for it to go green and its not just from algicide, clean it or replace it that is normal

I bought a couple of ionizers for my 35000 gallon pool. It definitely helps reduce the amount of chlorine that you need. They have copper rods and I'm a little concerned that maybe I'm getting copper spots. It also seemed to kill black algae. Maybe I should say dislodge because unfortunately I see it down at the bottom of my pool now

I have been in pools for 39 years i would a filter enhancer if you have a sand filter or de filter if you have a cartridge filter i would add a flocking g agent to settle all the fine particulate to the pool bottom and the vaccum to waste and ALWAYS ALWAYS brush your pool at least twice a week i cant stress it enough

use either flock or clarifier. flock makes everything goes down to the bottom, and you'll need to manually vacuum it to waste. clarifier clumps them together so your filter and filter it out easily, but this is a slower process, and will have to backwash your filter more often.

Isn't yellow Algae chlorine resistant ?

@@PrettyGoodLookin more resistant yes, immune no. There are many things that are a factor.

Probably 2 bags I'm not sure

read the label on the shock. usually tells you how much gallon it will treat. 1st shock, use 3x the amount of what the label said. Usually 1 bag is good for 10000 gallons, so your normal shock would be about 3 bags, 1st shock would be 9 bags. unstablized shock works best, since it doesn't have any inhibiter for chlorine to work with. But that means need to shock when sun is down so. run pump 24hours for next few days.

just get new skimmer plates they are just on there with screws

Depends upon the chlorine level you want to reach. Might be too little to shock, but if you keep the pool in balance you might not need any bleach each week. What level you should aim for when shocking is also affected by your stabilizer (cyanuric acid) levels. Bleach marketed for pool use usually has a considerably higher % of sodium hypochlorite than what you’ll find in the laundry aisle. The % will affect the volume needed. I like poolcalculator.com which is free if you use the website (they charge for the app, but it isn’t necessary). It allows you to specify current levels and levels you want to reach and offers suggestions on how much should be added.

Hi there! So my experience with chlorine and mustard algae has been different. We tried algaecide, chlorine pucks (and we have a salt water pool), backs of shock, and nothing worked. We started following the SLAM method and overnight, our pool was clear. To keep it that way will take a couple more days (until we finish SLAM and can get back to normal FC levels), but it’s working when nothing else did. We’re just using liquid chlorine from Walmart. If your stabilizer (CYA) level is good, it should work. Just wanted to share because this was a game changer for us!

I'll bet your cyanuric acid is too high. Have you checked it?

The alkaline levels also need to be "good"

@@chuckschillingvideos my cyanuric levels are too high I'm having same problem. Should I keep shocking?

@@Hx3ney It may help in the very short term to shock your pool, but the bottom line is you need to dilute the cyanuric acid in your pool. There are treatments sold at pool stores that claim to do this, however, in my opinion the best way to do this is to partially drain your pool and refill with new water. How much you need to pump out depends on the size of the pool and the CA levels of your water.

@@chuckschillingvideos I drained my pool somewhat and filled it. Tested it and it was just about within acceptable levels so I shocked and put algaecide. Very green and wondering now if it's green from copper or do I keep dumping shock. . Ugh think I'll just take a water sample to the pool place and hope the 16yr old isn't working that day 😫

cause then you'll have fish waste to worry about and nothing to disinfect it.

No. But it's just pointless. You don't need it. Just superchlorinate your pool. Problem solved.

Ignore it. How would you know how much manganese you have in your water anyway?

goaley45 because in the morning the sun’s ray breaks down the chlorine so it doesn’t work as well as night where there is no sun. Yw

Exactly. I've read that the 🌞 sun's rays can deteriorate chlorine by 1PPM per hour, so shocking at night is preferred. Conversely, it's best to use algaecide - if you use it as a preventative measure - during the day as algae opens up, like a flower , during the day.

The suns uv rays will strip chlorine out of your pool. Better to shock ur pool at dusk

They just want to sell you crap you don't need because it's very profitable for them. All you really need is a source of chlorine, a pH modifier (whether that be an acid or base depends on your source of chlorine), an alkalinity buffer, and a calcium buffer. all that stuff they are pushing on you is useless. And anything with copper in it can stain your plaster, to boot.

No need. Save your money. Keep your alkalinity levels in check (slightly over 100 ppm), ph in the 7.4-7.6 range, and chlorine levels. If you’re using chlorine pucks those have stabilizer already in them. If you have a salt water chlorine generator then you have to add stabilizer occasionally. If you don’t, then the sun’s UV will destroy your free chlorine very quickly. It’s a good idea to know how much stabilizer is in the water since that affects what desirable chlorine levels are. If it is too high then that will necessitate very high levels of chlorine. So you need to have stabilizer in the pool, but using the instant conditioner weekly to add this doesn’t seem like the best way to do it. You should test for the levels and add stabilizer instead, and if you do that you likely won’t have to worry about it for a while (maybe test stabilizer levels once a month and add some more). Besides that you can increase alkalinity with the big bags of arm & hammer baking soda, increase pH with Borax, and decrease pH or alkalinity with muriatic acid. That’s it, and a lot cheaper than things marketed as “pH up,” “pH down,” etc... I’ve never needed flocculant, and algaecide is a total waste. Never had any phosphate problems, and I have a vinyl pool so calcium hardness isn’t a concern here. If you haven’t tested and identified problems then adding all of these things is likely a waste. I’m also not a big fan of putting chemicals into the water that aren’t necessary for health reasons. Not saying these are dangerous, but why add something to water if you don’t have to. A Taylor pool test kit is accurate and very easy to use. Remember that chemicals are only one part of the equation. Water needs to be circulated and filtered, and the pool needs to be brushed and vacuumed regularly.

Thanks for the reply! I meant to say “clarifier” instead of “instant conditioner” so the 3 weekly chemicals they told me to add were algicide, stain bab, and clarifier. I haven’t been adding the instant conditioner/stabilizer on a regular basis, I will need to check the levels and make sure to add that. Thanks for the tip! It’s all a bit overwhelming at first!!

Lauren Walker it is overwhelming. Consider using poolcalculator.com. You can put in your pool info, current levels, types of chemicals you plan to use, and the calculator will tell you how much to add. They charge for the app, but if you use the website it is free. Also google the BBB method or look for RU-vid videos on it if you want to get an idea of how to keep the pool in balance . Good luck!

The only way to really get rid of algae is to shock. Algaecide might cut the amount, but high levels of chlorine and brushing the pool will definitely kill it all (of course pool water needs to circulate as well). That’s why a lot of the comments here are slamming algaecide. It’s expensive, adds additional chemicals to the pool, and really doesn’t do what it claims.

Joe thank you !!!